Paint wear mark on roof

boilermaker · 10-03-2011, 01:08 PM

I seem to recall a thread previously posted about this but cant seem to find it.
I have a small round ( 2-3 cm) wear mark on my roof where the aluminum is actually showing.
Someone previously posted this happening to them due to a poorly adjusted trunk lid while the roof is in the trunk.
It is in the area above the driver side head rest approximately four inches in from the edge of the roof.
I think someone mentioned that the dealer striped and repainted their roof under the warranty...but I dont want to paint my entire roof...hard to beat a factory paint job by cadillac.

I was wondering if other owners have had this problem....is it just a few or are there numerous of us that had this problem

plan on taking it to a custom paint shop this week to see if it can be touched up by a airbrush. Then to the local Cadillac dealer.

It seems like our local dealer owns the chevrolet dealer also and the chevy dealer does all of the paint work.

Please respond.

Comfortzone · 10-03-2011, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boilermaker

I seem to recall a thread previously posted about this but cant seem to find it.
I have a small round ( 2-3 cm) wear mark on my roof where the aluminum is actually showing.

I was wondering if other owners have had this problem....is it just a few or are there numerous of us that had this problem

plan on taking it to a custom paint shop this week to see if it can be touched up by a airbrush. Then to the local Cadillac dealer.

It seems like our local dealer owns the chevrolet dealer also and the chevy dealer does all of the paint work.

Please respond.

It's a screw hitting it when the top is retracted. It happened on my first XLR. Do not have it repainted until you fix the screw issue, otherwise it will keep reappearing.

Anthony Cundari · 10-03-2011, 06:06 PM

chipped paint on roof

I think this is the one.

Comfortzone · 10-03-2011, 07:00 PM

I don't know how far back the thread search goes, but there is another thread that includes pictures and details on what the shop needs to do to fix it. They put it all on there when I asked about it a few years ago with my other XLR. I don't remember my old screen name, or I would try to find it.

Anthony Cundari · 10-03-2011, 09:15 PM

Nick in paint on top

http://www.xlr-net.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3674

XFireXLR · 10-04-2011, 02:22 AM

I am dealing with this issue right now, I got quotes from 3 outside paint shops ranging from $435.00 - $575.00 to repair. I cannot believe that it would cost that much to repair a hole in the paint that is about the diameter of a pencil eraser. My dealer will not do the painting because they do not have a paint shop on the premises, but will cover the cost under warranty. The thing that bothers me the most is the body shop wants to remove the top panel, they will then repair the damage then paint and clear coat and then reinstall the top panel. I have no issues with the quality of thier paint work, but I am not comfortable with them removing and reinstalling the top panel.

I would think that a good body man could mask the entire car and repair the area while the top is still on the car. Then a good painter could paint and blend the area and then clear coat the damaged area. I think I will get a kit from "Dr. Color Chip" and try to repair it myself, at this point I cannot make it look any worse.

rleonard · 10-04-2011, 08:21 AM

A good place for your "STP" stickers! LOL

Comfortzone · 10-04-2011, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XFireXLR

I am dealing with this issue right now, I got quotes from 3 outside paint shops ranging from $435.00 - $575.00 to repair. I cannot believe that it would cost that much to repair a hole in the paint that is about the diameter of a pencil eraser. My dealer will not do the painting because they do not have a paint shop on the premises. The thing that bothers me the most is the body shop wants to remove the top panel, they will then repair the damage then paint and clear coat and then reinstall the top panel. I have no issues with the quality of thier paint work, but I am not comfortable with them removing and reinstalling the top panel.

the Cadillac dealership in Elizabethtown, KY did mine and all they painted was just the roof. It was $200. (they did however have to do it twice, because at first we did not know what caused the spot and it did it again. But as mentioned before, the wonderful people on this forum told me exactly what caused the issue and explained how to fix it. My color was Satin Nickel, and the shop matched it perfectly.

mtrocket · 10-05-2011, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XFireXLR

I am dealing with this issue right now, I got quotes from 3 outside paint shops ranging from $435.00 - $575.00 to repair. I cannot believe that it would cost that much to repair a hole in the paint that is about the diameter of a pencil eraser. My dealer will not do the painting because they do not have a paint shop on the premises, but will cover the cost under warranty. The thing that bothers me the most is the body shop wants to remove the top panel, they will then repair the damage then paint and clear coat and then reinstall the top panel. I have no issues with the quality of thier paint work, but I am not comfortable with them removing and reinstalling the top panel.

I would think that a good body man could mask the entire car and repair the area while the top is still on the car. Then a good painter could paint and blend the area and then clear coat the damaged area. I think I will get a kit from "Dr. Color Chip" and try to repair it myself, at this point I cannot make it look any worse.

If I was doing the work (I own a collision repair shop), I would remove, refinish, and reinstall the top. The reason is that there are so many intricate areas to mask. Usually an area that is masked and not removed does not get a sufficient sanding and, at some point down the road, the paint will begin peeling, i.e. the outside door handle or the belt moulding on at door.

XFireXLR · 10-06-2011, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtrocket

If I was doing the work (I own a collision repair shop), I would remove, refinish, and reinstall the top. The reason is that there are so many intricate areas to mask. Usually an area that is masked and not removed does not get a sufficient sanding and, at some point down the road, the paint will begin peeling, i.e. the outside door handle or the belt moulding on at door.

I know nothing about body work, but it seems like a lot of work for such a small area. Is this a hard item to remove and reinstall? I asked the service writer if they could remove the top, send it out for refinishing and then reinstall it....and he said that he would rather have the body shop do the work.

mtrocket · 10-06-2011, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XFireXLR

I know nothing about body work, but it seems like a lot of work for such a small area. Is this a hard item to remove and reinstall? I asked the service writer if they could remove the top, send it out for refinishing and then reinstall it....and he said that he would rather have the body shop do the work.

No, the top is not a difficult item to remove and reinstall... my software shows flat rate at 2.0 hours. The big thing is to make sure you mark the bolt locations and get it exactly back where it was before. I show flat rate refinish time at 2.6 hours with a 1.0 hour clearcoat time. I'm guessing about 1.0 time to sand and repair the area. If I was doing the work, my estimate would be $540. If I were you, I wouldn't scrimp and go to the lowest estimate, even if I were paying the bill myself; I would take it to the $575 shop and have the work done there. As in most anything, you get what you pay for in collision repair; the shop at $575 probably uses top-of-the-line materials as I do, which will hold up better. Hope this helps you make a decision...

boilermaker · 10-06-2011, 07:44 PM

well i finally got it to the dealer yesterday.
They didnt seem to know any thing about these incidents.
so I took the service man outside < with GM paper in hand, one that cadillac tech posted) and explained the whole trouble and procedures for fix and repair.
They set a appointment for next thursday to make adjustments and it just so happens that on thursday they have a guy that comes in to make paint repairs by airbrushing small nicks and such.
Just what i wanted...airbrush the erasher size chip instead of repainting the entire top.

will keep posted next thursday evening or friday with results.

THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR POSTS AND EXPERIENCES.

paulc17 · 10-08-2011, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boilermaker

I seem to recall a thread previously posted about this but cant seem to find it.
I have a small round ( 2-3 cm) wear mark on my roof where the aluminum is actually showing.
Someone previously posted this happening to them due to a poorly adjusted trunk lid while the roof is in the trunk.
It is in the area above the driver side head rest approximately four inches in from the edge of the roof.
I think someone mentioned that the dealer striped and repainted their roof under the warranty...but I dont want to paint my entire roof...hard to beat a factory paint job by cadillac.

I was wondering if other owners have had this problem....is it just a few or are there numerous of us that had this problem

plan on taking it to a custom paint shop this week to see if it can be touched up by a airbrush. Then to the local Cadillac dealer.

It seems like our local dealer owns the chevrolet dealer also and the chevy dealer does all of the paint work.

Please respond.

The Cadillac Bulletin below is what I received from "Cadillac Tech" back in August of 2009, when I first mentioned the marks found on my roof.
I found that when the roof is stowed away the mark, or marks, (I had one on each side) line up with screws on the underside of the trunk lid. It is a design problem and Cadillac fixed it under warrantee. They also went a step further and put plastic caps on the end of the screws to prevent it from happening again. It has been two year since then and the roof is fine.

Document ID: 2202265
#PIC4547A: XLR Roof Does Not Latch At Rear Corners In Stowed Position - keywords latch loose mid open potentiometer retract stow trunk - (Oct 23, 2008)

Subject:XLR Roof Does Not Latch At Rear Corners In Stowed Position

Models:2004-2009 Cadillac XLR and V-Series

This PI was superseded to update model years. Please discard PIC4547.
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:

Some customers may comment of a mark in the paint on the roof panel. This mark may be on the drivers or passengers side of the roof and typically the size of a pencil eraser. Further inspection of the retractable roof may indicate when the roof is stowed, the rear corners of the roof are not secured in trunk area. This may be the result of a misadjusted roof panel.
Recommendation/Instructions:

Lower roof into trunk as far as it will go. Stop when trunk starts to close. Check to see if the rear roof latches engage the lower support. Scribe the current position of the rear roof panel pivot bracket bolts. These marks may be needed if the panel moves more than needed. The position should only change about.5 mm (one half mm). Loosen both of the rear roof pivot brackets to rear roof panel fasteners one turn (both driver and passenger sides). These only need to be loose enough to allow the bracket to slide under the bolt shoulder. Do not allow the shims (if present) to become mis-positioned. Manually lower the panel so the rear latches engage and latch. Lightly bump/thump the rear corners of the roof panel above the latches using your open palm. Re-tighten the previously loosened fasteners to the specifications listed in S.I (Doc I.D. = 1739799)
Cycle the roof and ensure that it latches properly in both the up position and down position with out assistance. If it does not latch in the up position the strikers can be adjusted.

(1) Front Of Vehicle
(2) Loosen One Turn
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

XFireXLR · 10-08-2011, 02:19 PM

Paulc17....Many thanks.

boilermaker · 10-21-2011, 08:07 PM

Finally took the XLR to dealer for chip touchup..they have a paint chip repair guy that comes in every thursday to make repairs. well mine was done today..but not a very good job..the chip was painted but still noticeable.

But here is the information part about the hing and screw that causes the chip. If the car is still under warranty the dealer ordered a new redesigned hing and redesigned bolt at no cost that is to be installed next week in place of the one that is in there now causing the chip

If not under warranty dealer will make switch at small cost.

will update next week when i see the new parts.