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Thread: Trunk Leak

  1. #1
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    Cadillac XLR

    2004 Zenon Blue

    Default Trunk Leak

    My XLR has been at the dealer for a few days now because of a leak due to my driveway being on an incline. I gave the dealer the following TSB (thanks, ccclarke). They are having a hard time finding the material listed in the TSB.
    Any help locating this material would be appreciated. The original maker of the shims doesn't make it anymore so I'm hoping some is lying on a Parts shelf somewhere.
    Thanks.


    Body - Water Leaks Into Trunk When Parked Uphill

    Bulletin No.: 07-08-57-003
    Date: August 14, 2007
    TECHNICAL
    Subject:
    Waterleak in Trunk When Parked On a Hill/Incline (Apply Adhesive Shim Stock)

    Models:
    2004-2008 Cadillac XLR
    Condition
    Some customers may comment on water in the trunk after a rain when the car was parked on a hill/incline (front wheels 102-127 mm [4-5 in] higher than the rear wheels).
    Cause

    This condition may be caused by a dip in the two bond joints in the trunk inner panel.
    Correction
    Clean the shaded area shown in the first illustration above. Apply a small amount of weatherstrip adhesive to the center of the two bond joints. Refer to the second illustration above.

    Cut the Kent Automotive Adhesive Shim Stock, P/N 46475, to the dimensions shown in the illustration.

    Pull back the adhesive paper protector near the notches and bond the notch together with weatherstrip adhesive.

    Insert the foam at each corner. Be sure to place it against the deck lid inner, following the ridge.

    Use a pair of scissors to trim off excess foam to the edge of the deck lid inner.
    Verify the repair by water testing with the vehicle on an incline (front wheels 102-127 mm [4-5 in] higher than the rear wheels).

    Parts Information
    Adhesive Back Shim Stock can be purchased by calling 1-888-YES KENT (1-888-937-5368) or online at www.kent-automotive.com. This foam is sold in 50 foot rolls. This roll will service seven vehicles. Please return any unused portion to parts inventory for future use.
    Warranty Information

  2. #2
    Pit Crew onalaska's Avatar
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    Not a fix, but you could back your car into the drive with the front end pointing downhill.

  3. #3
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    This change was performed on my car before I bought it and isn't very complex. Kent Automotive or some of their dealers can be contacted directly for the material.

    Here's a link that shows what it looks like: http://www.lawsonproducts.com/kent/m...ile/E-318K.pdf

    In a pinch, you could do this yourself using some custom-cut adhesive-backed insulation from Home Depot for sealing beneath garage doors.
    The adhesive shims on my car are starting to get kind of ratty-looking, (no offence to any rats out there) so I will probably re-do mine soon.

    Let us know if you score any of the recommended shim stock. A 50' roll would go a long way!

    CC

  4. #4
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    Cadillac XLR

    2004 Zenon Blue

    Default HELP!! Out of ideas

    Well we got about 1-2" of wind-driven rain overnight. I thought I would park the car facing down the driveway to see what happens and guess what--I had to get the wet/dry out and crawl in the trunk to get all of the water out. I can live with a little water getting in and soaking it up with a towel, but to have to get the wet/dry out after every rain is a bit much.

    The dealer still can't find any of the "special" material listed in the TSB from any other dealers' shelves.

    I'm going to to go to Home Depot and see what they have that I can work with.
    If anyone has any pictures of where this foam goes and what dimensions to cut it to will be greatly appreciated. email me at danwalt@hotmail.com
    Thanks all.

  5. #5
    Pit Crew onalaska's Avatar
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    Your problem may not be related to the bulletin. I would have someone get in the trunk with a flashlight and get a water hose after it to find out where the water is coming from. You probably already have an idea of the location to look by where you have to use the wetvac. Make sure the drain hole is open in the well where the pump is located so it doesn't fill up with water and short the electronics out.

  6. #6
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    I contacted the folks at Kent Automotive and they have the proper automotive shim stock available. They say the part number is often wrong, even in GM's leak repair procedures.

    The correct part number is: P46475. Hopefully, someone can post a copy of the repair procedure. (I saw it in ALLDATA when I had a subscription.) It's hard to describe, since there are required lengths and specific locations to place the shims.

    CC

  7. #7
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    Default Thanks

    Thanks for the info. Attached is the TSB.
    Do you have a contact number for Kent Automotive?
    Attached Files Attached Files

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the TSB.

    Here's the info from their reply to my query:









    CC,


    Our products are sold direct into dealerships and body shops. For
    individuals, on-line ordering is going to be the easiest way to get access
    to our products. I'm the guy that works with GM on wind and water leak
    problems at the assembly plants. There are lots of GM TSB's that list Kent
    products as the fix. If you have any questions about Kent products or any
    particular TSB's let me know.


    Call 800-458-3222 and ask for inside sales or you can set up an account and purchase on the website. I'll be glad to help if you have any technical questions but I only sell to the car factories. Mike MedvecKent Automotive OEM Sales Manager6050 Oak Tree Blvd., Suite 350Independence, Ohio 44131office phone: 216-642-5973 ext. 7320cell: 216-496-2598fax: 216-524-9211

    Then he steered me toward her:

    Alicia Walker - Web Customer Care Rep
    Lawson Products Inc.
    Customer Contact Center
    Phone # 1-866-837-9908 Ext 7334

    Try part number P46475. GM often forgets that many of our part numbers
    start with a P.

    CC








  9. #9
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    Thanks for the contact info. Ordered the part this morning and should have it by the end of the week.

  10. #10
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    Danno,

    I found another hardcopy TSB from ALLDATAdiy.com hidden in one of my folders regarding trunk leaks that you may be interested in.

    The TSB is 05-08-57-005A Dated 8-18-2006 and affects 2004-2007 XLRs

    Condition: Water entry over the wheelhouse traced back to the joint between the rear compartment weatherstrip and quarter belt weatherstrip.

    Correction: Seperate the joints and lift each end 50-76mm (2-3 inches) enough to apply 3M Bedding and Glazing Compound so that it extends to both ends of the weatherstrip and will cause slight squeeze out when reinstalled. As you reinstall the weatherstrip, be sure the smaller weatherstrip is fully inserted into the opposite weatherstrip. Work the weatherstrips onto the flange and towards each other to ensure a tight joint when finished.

    There's a line drawing of the long, U-shaped weatherstrip that follows the contours of the trunk perimeter lifted above the rear of the car.

    Here's a link for the Bedding & Glazing Compound:

    http://www.shop3m.com/62556252096.ht...W_3MAAD_GS-Tab Sold in 1 gallon quantities in tube form.


    Kicking it up further, is the next section, detailing a known design deficiency:

    Condition: Water entry over wheel house and traced back to quarterbelt cup. The cup drain is not large enough to drain adequately and floods over the dry side of the sealing system, which allows water to enter the trunk.

    Correction: The cup joint is located at the rear of the quarter belt seal and it looks like a trough. This area is where the roof panel lower weatherstrip contacts when the roof is closed. The area just forward (toward front of car) of this cup is the "wet area" and to better manage the water into this wet area, a strip of foam must be added into the rear roof panel lower weatherstrip where it contacts the cup. Cut a strip of adhesive backed foam Kent Adhesive - Back Shim Stock P/N P46475, 60mm x 15mm (2 1/4 in x 5/8 in). Clean the area of the roof panel lower weatherstrip where the foam will be added using de-natured alcohol before installing the foam strip to ensure adhesion. (--At this point it references two illustrations that words just can't describe adequately.)

    This fix was done to my car and needs to be replaced occasionally due to top movement that loosens the foam strip over time. --It's a good thing the foam strips come in 50' rolls!

    And then, almost as an afterthought is this little bombshell that could seriously dent your pocketbook if you were cursed enough to have this happen:

    Condition: Water entry into rear tubs located behind the rear wheelhouses traced to the area behind the rear tail lamps.

    Correction: There are a number of panels that are bonded together in this area. If entry is traced to this area, remove the rear tail lamp on the affected side to help gain access. Use Kent Seam Sealer, P/N P10200 to seal the affected joint. It refers to an illustration with an arrow at either side of the rear of the car (with the tail lamps removed) that point to the outside, lower edge of the surface where the tail lamp housings mate to the car's body.

    And then, if you were wondering why you bought so much Kent Seam Sealer in the first place, this follows:

    Condition: Water entry into the rear compartment. Water may be present on the sill of the lower rear compartment opening (near the latch). Water may be seen dripping from the rear compartment lid inner trim at the lower corners.

    Correction: Seal the area of the rear compartment lid inner and outer panels at the outer most vertical seam (between arrows - either side). The seam is on the inside of the rear compartment lid. Then it refers to an illustration that points to the top/rear corners and lower rear corner of the trunk lid on each side.

    And lastly, is included something ALL XLR owners should do:

    Inspect the rear tub drains (This is incorrect since only the tub on the driver's side in my vehicle has a drain) to ensure they are clear of any obstructions. Inspect to be sure there is no loose material in the tub that could cover the drain on the inside of the tub. (--This really wouldn't matter if we didn't have to worry about water intrusion in the first place!)

    If the drain is a duck bill type drain at the end, use scissors to make one cut in the bottom opening so that if viewed from the bottom opening it will have an "X" instead of a slit in the opening.

    If you can't access this TSB, I can probably make a pdf file and post it --but not until next week. The illustrations are necessary to install the shim/foam material properly.

    CC

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccclarke View Post
    Danno,

    I found another hardcopy TSB from ALLDATAdiy.com hidden in one of my folders regarding trunk leaks that you may be interested in.

    The TSB is 05-08-57-005A Dated 8-18-2006 and affects 2004-2007 XLRs

    Condition: Water entry over the wheelhouse traced back to the joint between the rear compartment weatherstrip and quarter belt weatherstrip.

    Correction: Seperate the joints and lift each end 50-76mm (2-3 inches) enough to apply 3M Bedding and Glazing Compound so that it extends to both ends of the weatherstrip and will cause slight squeeze out when reinstalled. As you reinstall the weatherstrip, be sure the smaller weatherstrip is fully inserted into the opposite weatherstrip. Work the weatherstrips onto the flange and towards each other to ensure a tight joint when finished.

    There's a line drawing of the long, U-shaped weatherstrip that follows the contours of the trunk perimeter lifted above the rear of the car.

    Here's a link for the Bedding & Glazing Compound:

    http://www.shop3m.com/62556252096.ht...W_3MAAD_GS-Tab Sold in 1 gallon quantities in tube form.


    Kicking it up further, is the next section, detailing a known design deficiency:

    Condition: Water entry over wheel house and traced back to quarterbelt cup. The cup drain is not large enough to drain adequately and floods over the dry side of the sealing system, which allows water to enter the trunk.

    Correction: The cup joint is located at the rear of the quarter belt seal and it looks like a trough. This area is where the roof panel lower weatherstrip contacts when the roof is closed. The area just forward (toward front of car) of this cup is the "wet area" and to better manage the water into this wet area, a strip of foam must be added into the rear roof panel lower weatherstrip where it contacts the cup. Cut a strip of adhesive backed foam Kent Adhesive - Back Shim Stock P/N P46475, 60mm x 15mm (2 1/4 in x 5/8 in). Clean the area of the roof panel lower weatherstrip where the foam will be added using de-natured alcohol before installing the foam strip to ensure adhesion. (--At this point it references two illustrations that words just can't describe adequately.)

    This fix was done to my car and needs to be replaced occasionally due to top movement that loosens the foam strip over time. --It's a good thing the foam strips come in 50' rolls!

    And then, almost as an afterthought is this little bombshell that could seriously dent your pocketbook if you were cursed enough to have this happen:

    Condition: Water entry into rear tubs located behind the rear wheelhouses traced to the area behind the rear tail lamps.

    Correction: There are a number of panels that are bonded together in this area. If entry is traced to this area, remove the rear tail lamp on the affected side to help gain access. Use Kent Seam Sealer, P/N P10200 to seal the affected joint. It refers to an illustration with an arrow at either side of the rear of the car (with the tail lamps removed) that point to the outside, lower edge of the surface where the tail lamp housings mate to the car's body.

    And then, if you were wondering why you bought so much Kent Seam Sealer in the first place, this follows:

    Condition: Water entry into the rear compartment. Water may be present on the sill of the lower rear compartment opening (near the latch). Water may be seen dripping from the rear compartment lid inner trim at the lower corners.

    Correction: Seal the area of the rear compartment lid inner and outer panels at the outer most vertical seam (between arrows - either side). The seam is on the inside of the rear compartment lid. Then it refers to an illustration that points to the top/rear corners and lower rear corner of the trunk lid on each side.

    And lastly, is included something ALL XLR owners should do:

    Inspect the rear tub drains (This is incorrect since only the tub on the driver's side in my vehicle has a drain) to ensure they are clear of any obstructions. Inspect to be sure there is no loose material in the tub that could cover the drain on the inside of the tub. (--This really wouldn't matter if we didn't have to worry about water intrusion in the first place!)

    If the drain is a duck bill type drain at the end, use scissors to make one cut in the bottom opening so that if viewed from the bottom opening it will have an "X" instead of a slit in the opening.

    If you can't access this TSB, I can probably make a pdf file and post it --but not until next week. The illustrations are necessary to install the shim/foam material properly.

    CC
    Would you be able to post this TSB detailing the illustrations of everything? I got some severe trunk leaks and would like to take care of all the issues. Thank-you!

  12. #12
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    I found a couple of bulletins on the subject that I will post tonight with pictures.
    Bruce

    Life's too short to drive a boring car

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    Bruce

    Life's too short to drive a boring car

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    Bruce

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    My drive doesn't have a incline. But the problem returned. But not as bad. This time as of now it's only in the passenger side trunk cubby. Just dropped it off and forwarded this bulletin to my service advisor.


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