Fuel door latch

[Steve Lee]

Took the inner fender panel out, removed the nut that holds the latch; cable comes down about 6-8 inches. Saw no spring at all??? (It must have been there before, because I could pull remote in trunk and feel spring tenson,) and latch pin would return to lock position but, after a few times it pulled all the way to "stop", and it suddenly had no tension? If the spring is supposed to be in the end that I removed at the fuel door, there was none?? Where is it supposed to be?? I pushed the dash button, the solenoid pulled the cable, and now it won't let it return.Originally,the solenoid, would release the door(pull), but not return to latch it. I took the plastic latch end off the cable, and tried to pull it in the gas door end with pliers (with the cable disconnected at the solenoid}, and it seems the cable is "bound up in the housing?" Even so, the solenoid is not returning to let the cable return forward, to "latch" position. It is in the "pull, open " position. I tried "very carefully" (but with some pressure) to move the solenoid arm forward, to the "latch position" and it won't move. I think the solenoid is bad, or has dirty connections, and I dont see how, with all of the trunk and top hinges, you can get in there to even check the connections or replace it if it is bad? It looks like you would have to remove the "wheel house liner" panel to work on any of that!??? The only mounting parts for that panel on GM Parts.com, look like a "Cowel expansion pin" (plastic expansion pin,) and I see onmy car, (2) hex bolts on the outer rear of it?? There has to be more holdng it than, doesn't there? I'm thinking that removing it,that will get me in 'the back door to the solenoid and cable assy., which if needed, I can get thriugh GM Parts.com for $75.06. I thought this was and easy fix? NOT!! Please will some one respond that can help me through this can of worms?!! Post a phone number so we can chat about it! This is a big problem for me, and very difficult to explain in this manner!!I need someone that is familiar with this assembly, to talk to on the PHONE!! Thank you who ever you are!!!!

 

[xlrlist01]

Took the inner fender panel out, removed the nut that holds the latch; cable comes down about 6-8 inches. Saw no spring at all??? (It must have been there before, because I could pull remote in trunk and feel spring tenson,) and latch pin would return to lock position but, after a few times it pulled all the way to "stop", and it suddenly had no tension? If the spring is supposed to be in the end that I removed at the fuel door, there was none?? Where is it supposed to be?? I pushed the dash button, the solenoid pulled the cable, and now it won't let it return.Originally,the solenoid, would release the door(pull), but not return to latch it. I took the plastic latch end off the cable, and tried to pull it in the gas door end with pliers (with the cable disconnected at the solenoid}, and it seems the cable is "bound up in the housing?" Even so, the solenoid is not returning to let the cable return forward, to "latch" position. It is in the "pull, open " position. I tried "very carefully" (but with some pressure) to move the solenoid arm forward, to the "latch position" and it won't move. I think the solenoid is bad, or has dirty connections, and I dont see how, with all of the trunk and top hinges, you can get in there to even check the connections or replace it if it is bad? It looks like you would have to remove the "wheel house liner" panel to work on any of that!??? The only mounting parts for that panel on GM Parts.com, look like a "Cowel expansion pin" (plastic expansion pin,) and I see onmy car, (2) hex bolts on the outer rear of it?? There has to be more holdng it than, doesn't there? I'm thinking that removing it,that will get me in 'the back door to the solenoid and cable assy., which if needed, I can get thriugh GM Parts.com for $75.06. I thought this was and easy fix? NOT!! Please will some one respond that can help me through this can of worms?!! Post a phone number so we can chat about it! This is a big problem for me, and very difficult to explain in this manner!!I need someone that is familiar with this assembly, to talk to on the PHONE!! Thank you who ever you are!!!!

I explained how to get to the solenoid years ago. I'll look for the thread. Your symptoms match the 'puller' in the solenoid needing lubrication.

It is here, step #9.
Gas Cap Door Solenoid

 

[Steve Lee]

I explained how to get to the solenoid years ago. I'll look for the thread. Your symptoms match the 'puller' in the solenoid needing lubrication.
I would like to know how to get to that solenoid if I ever have to replace it!
It is here, step #9.
Gas Cap Door Solenoid

Well today I attacked the problem again, and with my motto, "Only losers give up, winners never give up," and my 10 years as a Junior, and then Senior mechanic, in the 60's and 70's, I finally got it all repaired!

I found the solenoid only "pulls," and the spring does the return. Since there was "no spring" in any of the assy., ther was nothing to go by, so I had to try a couple of different strengths, and lengths, to get it right. I ended up with a 1/4"D. about 3/8" long I had to cut one to length, as they were all about 1 1/2 " long. It consumed a total of about 6-7 hours including two trips to the hardware store,getting tools out, cleaning up, and putting all of the tools away.

I chose a weaker springs, because a stronger I had tried the day before was to strong for the solenoid to pull. "It's working like a charm!!" THANK GOD!!!!

By the way, some fool had put about 100 lbs. of torque on the lug nuts on both rear wheels!! I took them both off, greased the threads and tightened them to about 60-65 lbs.
Tomorrow, I am going to do the same with the front wheel lug nuts.

 

[mickeytee]

wheel torque

100 pounds is actually the correct amount. Use anti seize if you want to put something on the threads just a touch on thread only not on the mating surface of the nut to wheel. However a touch of it around the hub centric part of the hub will help keep the aluminum wheel from corroding to the hub. again, a little goes a long way. And it will get on you and make a mess, so be careful . Also Porsche says if you use it on their race cars apply 10% less torque to the lugs . I have never had a problem with it .

 

[xlrlist01]

Well today I attacked the problem again, and with my motto, "Only losers give up, winners never give up," and my 10 years as a Junior, and then Senior mechanic, in the 60's and 70's, I finally got it all repaired!

I found the solenoid only "pulls," and the spring does the return. Since there was "no spring" in any of the assy., ther was nothing to go by, so I had to try a couple of different strengths, and lengths, to get it right. I ended up with a 1/4"D. about 3/8" long I had to cut one to length, as they were all about 1 1/2 " long. It consumed a total of about 6-7 hours including two trips to the hardware store,getting tools out, cleaning up, and putting all of the tools away.

I chose a weaker springs, because a stronger I had tried the day before was to strong for the solenoid to pull. "It's working like a charm!!" THANK GOD!!!!

By the way, some fool had put about 100 lbs. of torque on the lug nuts on both rear wheels!! I took them both off, greased the threads and tightened them to about 60-65 lbs.
Tomorrow, I am going to do the same with the front wheel lug nuts.

Steve, 60-65 is dangerously low. You need to fix that to the correct 100 immediately. Always tighten the lugs in a sort of diamond pattern. I tighten to 60 first and then go to 100, can't speak for others but I have never had to tighten a lug nut when I go back to check after about 100 miles (which is required for alloy wheels).

 

[Steve Lee]

Steve, 60-65 is dangerously low. You need to fix that to the correct 100 immediately. Always tighten the lugs in a sort of diamond pattern. I tighten to 60 first and then go to 100, can't speak for others but I have never had to tighten a lug nut when I go back to check after about 100 miles (which is required for alloy wheels).

Thank you! I did them to 100lbs today. I always go 60, 80, 100.

I don't want you to think that I don't appreciate your comments. But Unlike most, I started as aused car "clean up boy"worked my way up to a mechanic for about 11 years, so I know the pattern and proceedure for tightening lugs but you didn't know that, so it's good advise, and I thank you! I was a mechanic way back in the 1960's, probably before most were born. I worked for one VW Dealer for 5 years, then went to another for 1 year , then another for 1 year; then I went to Buick for another year. I was always moving up for more "do re me!" I've rebuilt starters (the mica is undercut on a starter (after you "turn it down") and generators, done shoe brake jobs, disc brake jobs, when the came out in the later 1960's, rebuilt dozens of motors, did king pin replacements, ball joint replacements, Tie rod end replacements,water pups, heater core, radiator repairs, trnansmission o' hauls, VW transaxle o'hauls, vale jobs, front end alignments, head light alignments,etc.etc.

Even so, this new technology is baffleing to an old hand like me at 80 years of age, So keep the comments coming, I have a lot to learn about the ways that they fix these newer cars, and I'm doing my own repairs on my XLR,and learning as I go with some good help from you guys on this forum! Thank you for your help!!!

You wouldn't know the D. and LGTH. of the gas door latch return spring, would you? Mine had NONE!!! I have to buy one to install. Happy XRL' ing!!!

 

[Steve Lee]

Steve, 60-65 is dangerously low. You need to fix that to the correct 100 immediately. Always tighten the lugs in a sort of diamond pattern. I tighten to 60 first and then go to 100, can't speak for others but I have never had to tighten a lug nut when I go back to check after about 100 miles (which is required for alloy wheels).

I misspoke! Most cars take about 60-65 lbs on the wheel lugs; this car takes 100lbs.!!! Never thought any car would have wheel lugs that tight! Live and learn.

 

[mickeytee]

When the cars where new 10 years ago the factory used to list 10-15 pounds less than they do now. I know Mercedes used to be 85 when new now most charts show 100. Unless you just leave them snug lugs hardly ever work loose unless you have a bent wheel. They tighten up with heat cycles. Just check torque to break on lose and then check one in a month. The main thing is to make sure they are all the same. Many cars will warp rotors if not all the same torque. Not sure about the XLR but I do know BMW and Porsche and Mercedes. I have a garage full of warped ones from people who knew about how tight 80-100 pounds feels with a ratchet. HAHA

 

[Popbigguy]

I don't think you're suppose to "grease" the threads on lug bolts....... I'd clean that off.

 

[xlrlist01]

I don't think you're suppose to "grease" the threads on lug bolts....... I'd clean that off.

With alloy wheels this is common. A copper based grease (O'Reillys sell it, on shelf by brake cleaner) in tiny quantities helps to stop the lug nut jamming on the thread when a bit of alloy gets caught in it.

It is critical that there is no grease on the 'cone' end of the lug nut, this seats into the alloy wheel and MUST be clean.

 

[Steve Lee]

I don't think you're suppose to "grease" the threads on lug bolts....... I'd clean that off.

As a former auto mechanic, I put a little lube on all threads on any screws, nuts, or bolts that I remove before petting them back on. That's standard in the industry, to keep them from rusting and make them easier to "break loose."

 

[rexster314]

As a former auto mechanic, I put a little lube on all threads on any screws, nuts, or bolts that I remove before petting them back on. That's standard in the industry, to keep them from rusting and make them easier to "break loose."

Steve, I sent you a Private Message. Please check it

 

[Pablo Picasso]

Easy fix. Squirt WD 40 around the square door make sure it squirts inside. Get a friend to push open the door as you hit the door opener!