new (to me) 05 XLR- won't start.

[Vasir]

I just purchased an 05 XLR from someone claiming the car had a bad alternator and dead battery. Of course the car was locked and i couldn't see it or start it etc, between the seller's claims and just overall vibe of the entire deal i went ahead and purchased the car.
Fast forward to today in my driveway, the car has been unlocked and i put a fresh battery in it, but i could smell a faint... bit of burnt electronics. I can't explain how i know this smell, i just do.
As I'm sitting inside the car and taking in this odor, i move on to trying to start it. Nothing. the radio, the dash, everything was dead.
and when i pressed the start button i could hear faint clicking over and over again and then nothing.
However, i did notice that the start button light was green and a red light on the lower left corner of it.

When fiddling with the switches, the lights turn on and i can see the miles driven, but thats about it.

Now I've googled the hell out of this and have gone through the search function, but i can't help but feel overwhelmed and not know where to start. any pointers would be great. I checked the fuses and they seem fine- the relays however, i have no idea, I've gone ahead and switched then around with their matching counterparts and no change. I went to the passenger floorboard and checked the fuses there and they seemed fine. I disconnected the battery and went back to the passenger side fuses and disconnected the two major plugs for about 10-15 minutes or so- no change.

The trunk is completely locked. i tried turning the key in the bumper to the right and attempt to lift the trunk, but either I'm extremely weak (the rear of the car was lifting), or its just locked. i guess i don't know why id be checking the trunk, but i tried no less.

my limited experience with this leads me to think it has a fried ECU, but i guess any pointers or a direction to go from would be nice.

Thanks everyone!

-Ben

 

[rexster314]

Sorry for your problems. When the battery is dead, you have to turn the key in the bumper while someone else is pulling up the trunk. Don't pull up on one side or the other, but from the center of the trunk.

 

[Vasir]

Thanks Rex, Ill try that tomorrow, I do have to ask though- aren't i supposed to feel some kind of resistance when turning the key in the trunk? it just slides in the slot and turns to the right very easily, as if its not engaging anything, just just turning freely....

 

[ras]

Hello Vasir & Welcome to the Forum...
I know you said you put in a fresh battery, but I would check to make sure it's fully charged..
Doesn't cost anything to check it out....Good Luck.....
ras


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Vasir]

Thanks ras,

Coincidentally i made sure the new one was fully charged, i had them test it and leave it on a tender for an hour before i came back and picked it up. I have an SL600 that is also finicky to batteries... -_- hah

 

[Stella]

First thing they didn't use alpine white till I think 08 so might wanna check into that. You bought a car without running or being able to get in it while it was infront of you? Hope you got it for a steal. How did they tow it not being able to put in neutral,how did you get in the car without going through the trunk?To get in the trunk the key pulls a cable which unlatches the lock mechanism. It might help to have another person help,oil the key lock never gets used could be hung up.
You need a new battery or equivalent these cars are touchy. Your gonna need to see if modules and so on are working a tech 2 is your best bet. It's a good sign the start button is green. The red dot is accessory mode while parked. Do you have two key fobs try both? I'm still curious as to how you got in the car?

 

[Vasir]

First thing they didn't use alpine white till I think 08 so might wanna check into that. You bought a car without running or being able to get in it while it was infront of you? Hope you got it for a steal. How did they tow it not being able to put in neutral,how did you get in the car without going through the trunk?To get in the trunk the key pulls a cable which unlatches the lock mechanism. It might help to have another person help,oil the key lock never gets used could be hung up.
You need a new battery or equivalent these cars are touchy. Your gonna need to see if modules and so on are working a tech 2 is your best bet. It's a good sign the start button is green. The red dot is accessory mode while parked. Do you have two key fobs try both? I'm still curious as to how you got in the car?

It was originally silver and the previous owner had the whole thing stripped down and repainted BMW alpine white to match his other two cars. You can't even tell it was repainted, and i have a pretty sharp eye...

The car was placed in neutral by lifting up the rear and manually shifting the linkage from underneath, and it was unlocked by a long steel rod through the window thats cracked open, went down to the emergency latch and pulled it up.

I didn't get it for much of a steal, I'm kind of a gambler when it comes to cars. I paid 7k for it. I just decided I really wanted it.
As far as fobs go, it has only 1 fob, and 1 key. I took the fob to auto zone and placed it against one of those battery tester things they have and it was good; so theres that at least...

 

[rexster314]

7K for an 08 that's probably at least a 30k car? Sorry, but that in itself sounds bells to me. Hopefully it's not a major undertaking to get it running, but a Tech2 is in your future

 

[Vasir]

Hopefully it's not a major undertaking to get it running, but a Tech2 is in your future

I think you're right. Should i not bother with the tech2's sold online? I have a really honest mechanic, but he told me he does not have a tech2 scanner- i really don't want to go to the stealer.


This one:

New GM Tech2 Diagnostic Scanner For GM/SAAB/OPEL/SUZUKI/ISUZU/Holden Tech 2 with Carton Box

 

[lextoy]

i would replace the battery in the fob anyway, make sure the new battery has good voltage.
then try to lock / unlock the car with the fob, make sure the windows are down so you can reach the emergency door latch inside!
does it lock unlock ??? another good sign your fob is good.
then place the fob in the key slot inside the glove compartment.
try to start.
make sure you press your foot onto the brake pedal.
open and close drivers door between attempts to start.
remove and re insert fob into slot.

this could take 15 minutes of playing and trying to start.

when i replaced my battery. for some reason the car would not restart.
it was like it didnt know the key was there. like the module wasnt charged up to see the key.
eventually after a few various tries, to reset the module to know door was closed, key was there, brake pedal was pressed...
it started up fine.
never happened since.
others have had similar experience with dead battery replacement.
somehow the car loses its mind when battery is removed and doesnt want to recognize its ready to start again.

all hope isnt lost, hopefully its just this quirky problem.

 

[Vasir]

No i can't do anything, the fob doesn't unlock anything, the windows don't move. The dash does nothing except show the miles when i turn the headlights on, and the starter button glowing green at the top and red at the bottom left-and thats the extent of anything electrical in the car working- just a bunch of clicking sounds in the dash area when i press the start button... But somehow I'm convinced its a non-issue; but ill give it about a week of me fiddling with it before it's sent off to a xlr mechanic/dealer if i can find one. I'll be shopping for a tech2 tomorrow.

 

[Crimson Pearl]

I can only offer two pieces of advice.

1. Read the owners manual cover to cover.

2. Locate a dealer with a very experienced XLR tech and make friends with the Serrvice Advisor.


These are very complex vehicles with 22 serial data modules. They were last produced in 2009. Many dealerships sold very few XLRs and some sold none. Many dealerships rarely work on one. It will be worth your time and effort to locate a dealership that regularly services these cars.

Also, familiarize yourself with the correct procedure to jack up the car and put it on a lift. If you don't, you could do some serious damage.

Also, learn about checking the left rear trunk compartment for water intrusion.

Good luck with your new acquisition. Once you get it right, you'll certainly enjoy it.

 

[Vasir]

I can only offer two pieces of advice.

1. Read the owners manual cover to cover.

2. Locate a dealer with a very experienced XLR tech and make friends with the Serrvice Advisor.


These are very complex vehicles with 22 serial data modules. They were last produced in 2009. Many dealerships sold very few XLRs and some sold none. Many dealerships rarely work on one. It will be worth your time and effort to locate a dealership that regularly services these cars.

Also, familiarize yourself with the correct procedure to jack up the car and put it on a lift. If you don't, you could do some serious damage.

Also, learn about checking the left rear trunk compartment for water intrusion.

Good luck with your new acquisition. Once you get it right, you'll certainly enjoy it.

Thanks Crimson,

Monday i will stop by the dealer and buy the owner's manual.

I will be purchasing a Tech2 very soon, as there seems to be no xlr trained techs nearby, and with my experience with my SL600 and other quirky cars in the past, I don't see who else could be a careful and willing as myself. I will update as i move forward with this *ahem* project.

 

[ccclarke]

First, congrats on your new car. It could be a steal or a curse, depending on what ails it.

Don't waste your money on a Tech 2 unless you obtain a Service manual. It will likely read loss of commas when initially connected. A fried module could interrupt the Class 2 buss.

Don't waste your money buying an owner's manual either. They're available on this site. Look up at the top of the Home page under the Tech Center drop-down menu.

If it smells like something has become a crispy critter, that may be your first clue. Check all fuses under the hood in the UBEC, and by the BCM in the passenger side toe board, under the carpet. It may have gotten wet and cooked itself. It sucks, it happens.

Do open the rear deck lid and ensure the passenger side storage compartment hasn't flooded out at some point. That can disrupt the buss. Assume you have more than one electrical problem to avoid tunnel vision when troubleshooting.

Keep us updated,

CC

 

[Vasir]

First, congrats on your new car. It could be a steal or a curse, depending on what ails it.

Don't waste your money on a Tech 2 unless you obtain a Service manual. It will likely read loss of commas when initially connected. A fried module could interrupt the Class 2 buss.

Don't waste your money buying an owner's manual either. They're available on this site. Look up at the top of the Home page under the Tech Center drop-down menu.

If it smells like something has become a crispy critter, that may be your first clue. Check all fuses under the hood in the UBEC, and by the BCM in the passenger side toe board, under the carpet. It may have gotten wet and cooked itself. It sucks, it happens.

Do open the rear deck lid and ensure the passenger side storage compartment hasn't flooded out at some point. That can disrupt the buss. Assume you have more than one electrical problem to avoid tunnel vision when troubleshooting.

Keep us updated,

CC

Thank you for pointing me in the right direction!
could you direct me to where I could get a hold of a service manual? I'm pretty set on buying a tech2 to at least be aware of what direction I must go. I've have too many mechanics back in my day just practice their theories on my dime, and don't have the patience for such a situation now. Had my mechanic now owned a tech2, the xlr would be in his shop as we speak.

I'd like to compare and contrast my findings from this forum and others. Thankfully I have the luxury of time and patience with this car, but with that said; who wouldn't want their new ride on the road, yesterday? Haha.

 

[Vasir]

So out of curiosity, i unplugged the bcm, and it does exactly the same thing as if it was plugged in- nothing. makes me want to gamble the $50 to see if thats a step in the right direction. will check back in tomorrow if i can pick up the one for sale locally.

 

[Vasir]

would this work? or does it absolutely have to be the exact same part number?

2005 Corvette Body Control Module with Fuses Relay C6 BCM Cadi XLR 591 GM1Z05 | eBay

mine is as follows:
GM p/n on mine is 15286124
Delphi p/n 28024837

thanks,
Ben

 

[ccclarke]

Ben,

If the eBay part # doesn't match, why take a chance and induce another fault? BCMs aren't too expensive XLR-wise. Here's a new one with a good discount:

OEM BODY CONTROL MODULE (15286124) for your GM Vehicle

The supplied PN# for the eBay auction is specifically for a Corvette:
Genuine GM  MODULE  (15288103)

GM Service manuals are available from helminc.com

CCC

 

[Vasir]

Ben,

If the eBay part # doesn't match, why take a chance and induce another fault? BCMs aren't too expensive XLR-wise. Here's a new one with a good discount:

OEM BODY CONTROL MODULE (15286124) for your GM Vehicle

The supplied PN# for the eBay auction is specifically for a Corvette:
Genuine GM* MODULE *(15288103)

GM Service manuals are available from helminc.com

CCC

If I could, I'd kiss you. I'm new to American cars- I just assumed it would cross swap, regardless d the part number because of some Cadillac/Chevrolet conspiracy, haha. I'll be ordering these today.
Thank you!
-Ben

 

[ccclarke]

No kissing is necessary, unless Ben is a acronym for beautiful, erotic, Nadia. Rather, put your lips to much better use while performing a few 12 oz curls with a nice, cold couple of beers.

CC