Help! Starting problem with 2005 base XLR

[xlrwoody]

So tried reading threads to fix problem, but seems different. I have replaced my battery in car(Red top), replaced batteries in FOB's. All fuses seem to be OK. Car starts perfect in morning or when first used. If I make several stops during the day, start to get clicking noise before it starts, and some times won't start at all. If it sits for a couple hours, starts right up.

 

[rexster314]

Sounds like a faulty ground somewhere on the car. I'd start by checking the ground terminal and it's attachment to the body

 

[IAN]

Hi Woody.

Sounds that the power works when the car is warm or when it gets cool, a new battery do not solve necessary all the problems.


Check for defect codes and advises from the instrument panel cluster.
Check for the alternator output ( generator ) and its connections.
Check Relay 1 and fuse engine compartment fuse boxe.
Check relay 2 and fuse interior passenger behind the toe panel.
Check the output of the starter.
As we suggested check the concerns grounds connections and terminals.
Check the harness for open wires.
Check the push on starting switch connections.
In other words you have a problem that a technictian can solve and recommend you the fix ( at a dealer or a knowledgeable workshop.)

Our cars are getting age and needs more cares and attentions in order to maintain them rolling for many miles again.

Good luck

IAN

 

[xlrwoody]

Thanks for the advise. Working on car today and will let you know what I find.

 

[xlrlist01]

So tried reading threads to fix problem, but seems different. I have replaced my battery in car(Red top), replaced batteries in FOB's. All fuses seem to be OK. Car starts perfect in morning or when first used. If I make several stops during the day, start to get clicking noise before it starts, and some times won't start at all. If it sits for a couple hours, starts right up.

How many miles? That symptom is consistent with a failing starter through wear. Works OK cold, starts to stick when warm. Met that before.

 

[xlrwoody]

I only have 33k miles on the car, but have had to replace quite a few things for having low milage and being garaged always. Looks like it might be the starter. Went through most of the other items so far. Question, they have remanufactured ACDelco original starters online, Duralast Gold lifetime starters around same price and other off brand at lower prices. Am I better off just going with original starter?

 

[IAN]

HI woody.

Good news, that it is only the starter.

ACDelco is an official GM parts supplier, the starter has good chances to be coming from an XLR and been original.

IAN

 

[David_B]

Is your DIC showing "no fob found" when you hear this clicking? Because this sounds like a no fob found problem, that can be the rcdlr module, not the starter.

 

[IAN]

Hi woody.

The mileage of your car is very low, for a 2005 and the fact that the XLR was park for a long period of time with probably a dead battery do not help the situation.

Since the sales of that car, many updates were made by GM on the car and since the car was kept away from the dealer could be the real problem.

Before getting in the spending for the maybe defect of components on the car it will be wiser and economical to get your XLR to the dealer.

There could be some defect codes that do not come out and theses codes could reveal the faulty components or maybe it is a simple update.

Since the past 10 years the xlr features are now on many models of GM and the dealers thecnictians have the know how and latest tools to updates your xlr computor.

The CLICK CLICK sounds of a poor circulation of the current in the starter solenoid, we are not 100 % sure, only a qualify thecnictian and its tools would have the solutions.

Good Luck.
IAN

 

[xlrlist01]

Doesn't always work, but if the starter is failing through wear in the switch assembly (the heavy duty switch built into the starter), then typically attaching a boost from a running vehicle (ie, higher voltage) will fix it (to get started). If this does work, it points more firmly at a starter problem. However, you have a low mileage XLR. Do you know, has somebody tried to start it with a poor battery? That could wear out a starter.

When newish, the XLR had a series of software updates to make the fob system more reliable.

Changing the starter is a major operation, it is in the valley to the rear of the block. Suggest if fitting, fit the best one possible, the labor costs will be a significant factor.

 

[Melificent]

Not sure if my reply will get buried, but I am having the same problem with my 04. Came out of store to non-starting car. Makes the “click” but not the repetitive clicking a bad starter does? I’m just a 50 yo nurse, no mechanic, but have worked on “some” issues with mine and my kids cars-so “some” mechanical inclinations.
Anyway, had AAA come check battery (after finding car wouldn’t start-replaced with Optima red top) but still wouldn’t start. Lights, controls, etc come on- almost like a reset, but no start.
Then, we call for a tow. So 45 mins later, I go to set car in N, and car is now locked and unresponsive to key fob! It is still sitting there-any suggestions?

 

[xlrwoody]

So it turned out my problem was a loose negative wire on the car battery. I had put a new battery in, and when they replaced the battery, the neg cable was not tightened correctly at a junction. Someone had sent me info that there are 3 locations on the car with ground cables. I had all of those tightened and the problem was fixed. It was not the starter or key fobs. You can see on the negative cable to the battery, there are a couple connections to help the cable move, these need to be tight and correct. Had quite a few mechanics look at it and the problem kept happening on and off for months.

 

[xlrwoody]

This also sounds like the problem I was having, Only one click when not starting

 

[IAN]

Hi Melificent.

Since you do not have the expertise it would be wise to get your car to a Cadillac dealer with a fine reputation or a corvette GM dealer, they will tell you if it is your door module, the battery, the alternator or the starter, the main fuse box or some thing else.

They have the tools up dated and can tell you the exat fail of your XLR, that could be an economical way for you to fix the problem, of course the labor rate is hi, hovever the know how makes it cheaper finally.

The XLR is like a human being ( complicated ) and it needs the know how….. like a nurse.

Good luck.

IAN

 

[Melificent]

Thanks, I am hoping that is what the problem is! It "acts" like it's a loose connection, like there's not enough or the right power to generate a crank. Lights, radio, etc all work, after I release the start button, which is a problem one of the other posts mentioned. Changed the battery in the key fob, no luck on that angle this morning, so it's in through the trunk to get a tow!

 

[Melificent]

So it turned out my problem was a loose negative wire on the car battery. I had put a new battery in, and when they replaced the battery, the neg cable was not tightened correctly at a junction. Someone had sent me info that there are 3 locations on the car with ground cables. I had all of those tightened and the problem was fixed. It was not the starter or key fobs. You can see on the negative cable to the battery, there are a couple connections to help the cable move, these need to be tight and correct. Had quite a few mechanics look at it and the problem kept happening on and off for months.

Having car towed back to house now as Dealer is backed up for 2 weeks. That being said, I am going to "attempt" at checking these 3 ground cables to see if they are indeed tight. Am I safe to do this without further messing anything else up? Thanks!!

 

[long Tall Sally]

yep. I would disconnect the positive battery cable also. check the 3 ground locations and then reinstall the positive cable first followed by the ground cableat the battery when you get finished. make it a point to always do it in that order. when disconnecting at the battery disconnect the ground (negative small cable) first making sure it is not free to move back and touch the post, then the positive . when installing , reverse and install positive first then ground. don't be alarmed by a small spark when installing the ground. its just a power jump to whatever may be on in the car.

 

[Melificent]

yep. I would disconnect the positive battery cable also. check the 3 ground locations and then reinstall the positive cable first followed by the ground cableat the battery when you get finished. make it a point to always do it in that order. when disconnecting at the battery disconnect the ground (negative small cable) first making sure it is not free to move back and touch the post, then the positive . when installing , reverse and install positive first then ground. don't be alarmed by a small spark when installing the ground. its just a power jump to whatever may be on in the car.

Thanks so much!! Getting ready to head out now to try all these suggestions...Such a sad sight for XLR owners-but at least I was able to somehow generate enough juice to shift car into neutral to push onto tow truck-which, at 50 and 5 feet tall, makes for an incredibly sore body today!!!

 

[IAN]

Melificient.

I am please to see your car is on way for a dealership ??

It is sad after trying to help you, that your car would not start, it happen to me also last year, after boosting it the XLR refused to get start, the dealer next morning got the anti theft system off and the car started.

However, the battery ( only 2 year old ) had to be change with a GM and original one, the electrical system on an XLR needs always to be at all time full charge, would you had store it for a long period of time or using it ounce in a while, the voltage/wattage will drops and the the modules could go coucou and wild.

A low voltage charger could solve that storage problem, ( if you dont have one )

The XLR is a 16 year old car and it will need severely attentions.

Let us know the results of the repairs for the best all XLR owners. ( perhaps )

IAN

 

[Melificent]

Melificient.

I am please to see your car is on way for a dealership ??

It is sad after trying to help you, that your car would not start, it happen to me also last year, after boosting it the XLR refused to get start, the dealer next morning got the anti theft system off and the car started.

However, the battery ( only 2 year old ) had to be change with a GM and original one, the electrical system on an XLR needs always to be at all time full charge, would you had store it for a long period of time or using it ounce in a while, the voltage/wattage will drops and the the modules could go coucou and wild.

A low voltage charger could solve that storage problem, ( if you dont have one )

The XLR is a 16 year old car and it will need severely attentions.

Let us know the results of the repairs for the best all XLR owners. ( perhaps )

IAN

Thanks, Ian...yes...well, it was on the way to my house. The dealer is backed up for 2 weeks so I thought I'd try some more suggestions from this forum! I have to say though, after helping push and steer the car onto the flatbed, I can not MOVE today!I have basically scoured the entire 40+ pages of posts in the technical forum and saved numerous ones that may help? I sincerely appreciate all the advice given on here, it is SUPER helpful!
From the info you and others have provided, I am guessing that after my car sat there without starting for 1 1/2 weeks, there is no chance of the battery starting now.
After I replaced what I thought was a dead battery last week with the Optima Red Top, still no success in starting the car when AAA came out, but the battery did read 732 CCA on his battery charging thing (super technical term). It later was completely dead so I had to go through the trunk and contort my 5' 0" body to lift trunk and open the door. But I did it! Anyway, the only way I could get any power at all to shift the car into N was have the Tow driver use his charger. Still no start, but enough to roll window down so I don't have to lift trunk again. Now I pray for no rain-haha!

In an older post (2014) by XLRATING he posts:
This sounds like one for a Tech-2. First, you need to know if, on pressing the start button, the signal is coming through. If the start button doesn't work then that would match the symptom. Not saying that is the problem, but you have to start someplace. A not uncommon source of trouble (generally, not XLR specifically) is in the starter. However, neither of these really match your 'it works if you disconnect and reconnect the battery' description. That suggests a computer malfunction, again a Tech-2 will be your friend. Given you are tracking down an intermittent, you might want to monitor the crank signal, review manual on page 6-640 and then 6-599. The crank relay is #43 in the underhood fuses, it takes power (to the starter relay) from fuse #30. You really need to know if relay 43 is clicking. Can you fit a test lamp somehow? The ground of the circuit that energises the crank relay (called starter enable) comes from the ECM, the positive end of the signal comes from relay #2 in the BCM, the BCM's crank relay.

It just seems odd that the issue happened all of a sudden and the battery is showing adequate voltage- i keep leaning towards a loose connection or relay, or something...the fuses were not blown, but if they are not getting any power, #43 crank relay would not be able to generate any power to #30 starter relay. Will keep tinkering (moderately) with it, but have booked an appointment at dealership. REALLY don't want to go to the Suttle Dealership, as I have already had an issue with Rhonda's attitude, but understand the tech is pretty competent so I may have to suck it up and deal.

Thanks again to everyone's input, and I'll keep you informed of my progress-or lack thereof.