So you turned the pressure relief valve at the pump, and then used the tool to open the latch at the windshield header? Although none of that matters if the Trunk won't even open.
Sometimes the trunk latch won't open, but when that happens you can hear the pump and see the trunk strain against being latched still.
Have you tried all the switches that open the trunk? The one above the license plate, the one by your left knee and the key fob in addition to the top switch? I'm sorry if this all seems obvious, but sometimes people get horse blinders and don't see something obvious like 1 bad switch.
If you have a bad sensor you usually get codes on your DIC. If your motor turns with power, but doesn't when you press any buttons that sounds like a communication or power problem to the pump.
I'm not an expert at all, I had my top stop working once, and the re-learn fixed it even though the symptoms didn't seem to me to be a re-learn problem. I messed around with the top, manually putting it up and down before finally doing a re-learn. At one point before the re-learn I would have sworn the pump was weak and the problem, but it wasn't, glad the re-learn fixed it.
Also, look at your cubby where the pump is and see if it looks like if there is a water ring in it from being filled up with water at one time, they are notorious for doing that on early models and that can cause corrosion on the connectors.
I would also suggest calling the supporting sponsor "top Hydraulics", they sell rebuilt top parts and seem to know quite a bit about the XLR top and might be able to help you.