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The software is used to program BCM/ECM/EBCM but I never had to do that. If you have the PCM card in the tool itself you're good to go on most anything.

I was never successful in loading the software. Never needed it actually. I saved money on doing the top relearn procedure as the top had a tendency to forget where it was

Although the TECH II is over 20 years old, it's a powerful tool. Go slow and be careful how you use it at first. It's possible to "brick" your XLR going into settings you shouldn't go into. This might be beneficial for a beginner tech2_users_guide.pdf

I replaced the old Bulgari fobs with the 08-09 fobs on my 06 XLR. Works perfectly, and had the key cut for the emergency trunk release. And it fit in the fob slot in the glove compartment.

Thanks for all your comments

The car was certainly not a jinxed lemon. It was a great car until Sterling McCall got hold of it. There was no qualified service tech there, only people that knew how to Remove and Replace. I had two local techs I trust to check it out and they threw their hands up after using their scan tools...

And then it wasn't. If you've read about my journey with my XLR, then you know what happened with my XLR 2 years ago. Suffice it to say, Sterling McCall Cadillac had it for a year for a steering gear problem, and the next thing you know I'm being told the shocks need replacement, the EBCM was...

The rear tailights have a combination of led and incandescent bulbs. Refer to this post from 2018: how to change tail light bulbs 2005 xlr

Again, the sway bar isn't needed for just day to day driving. The old way of checking on shocks was to push each corner of the car down several times and see how the car rebounded. More that twice and you could figure on replacing shocks. Have you had the car on a lift and seen for yourself if...

Yep, the Corvette guy doesn't know his shocks. I think Corvettes had the ability to program normal shocks into the car's computer, but XLRs don't have that option. You have to pop up and buy simulators for each regular shock

Seems a little high. But if you can get it..............

Not possible. The metal is bonded to plastic and edges are folded over the plastic. It's very flimsy and will be ruined if you try to take it off. I guess if you really wanted to try, pad the hell out of the surface and tap on the plastic underneath the dent(s)

There are no worries about the interfaces working. Once set up properly, they'll work until you pull the radio out. Not a valid argument

Yes

Thing about a new factory unit is you're still getting a 15 year old technology. Unless you just absolutely want to keep the car stock, it's your car. And the factory unit has been sitting on a shelf for 15 years or more.

The only thing that might "sting" them is the wiring harness for the radio doesn't quite make it a plug and play install. The speaker wires need to be "jumped" or criss crossed in order to work. When I got mine done in 2016 I wrote a pretty comprehensive review of the installation. You might...

Maybe throttle position sensor going bad?

But you CAN install an aftermarket unit like Kenwood, Pioneer and others very easily and have Car Play, backup camera, gps, cd player, usb inputs and outputs and still retain steering wheel controls

If you're referring to a shop in Houston, it's A1. They matched a section of my shale driver's seat years ago.

The later version of the key fobs (2005-2009) will NOT work on the 2004. If the manual description of adding a key fob doesn't work a TECH II from somewhere is in your future. The FOB is just a transmitter. Nothing more. The RCDLR remembers the transmitter coded signal when programmed into the...