Search results

Perhaps by 2004 when they Northstars were fixed, that also happened to be the year they showed up in RWD applications so people mistakenly correlated the two?

Anybody have a perspective on the PF26 being superseded by the PF63? My gut reaction is that the smaller PF63 is a less capable filter in terms of flow rate or capacity, but I assume it doesn’t work like that or GM wouldn’t have made the replacement.

I see some listings for the OEM shocks note “without jumper harness” for the rear shocks. What is this and does it matter?

Thinking out loud for XLR specific stuff, beyond the usual used car mechanical inspection items: Make sure the headlights and taillights all work (including individual LEDs in the taillights) and are not cracked (replacements are hard to find) Confirm the operation of the top Check for evidence...

You mind sharing what part numbers you used for your replacements? I'm curious if they're from performance package or something, which may have a harsher ride than expected?

Spark plug torque - 15Nm or 11lbft Spark plug gap - .040 Spark plug PN - 41986 or 41-986 Ignition coil PN - D593A or GN10419

It was just a prototyping exercise, there’s no business case for it as they’ll never sell in the volume to make any money unfortunately. It’s actually pretty impressive that our current XLRs got built haha.

In summary - top was inoperable, you replaced the pump and performed a relearn and it went down but not up. Then after consulting with the experts you used the tech2 to clear the codes then do a relearn and it worked both up and down?

This was my logic. Cheaper to buy a clone than a single trip to the dealer. Better to have the tools to DIY!

Testing BPPS and observed it wasn't returning to home. Found the kick panel wasn't secured properly, it was drooping down and one corner of the panel was hitting the brake pedal arm, keeping it from returning to home position. Easy fix. Silly problem. Now I'll go sign the Wall of Shame :)...

Yep, found one - annd also confirm I made a mistake by leaving the ctek on my battery, it’s advised not to have a charger on the battery while using the tech2. I’m making every rookie mistake haha. I swear I’ve been working on cars for a long time, this is just a whole different beast than...

Now I’m getting somewhere. Helps if I’m in “key on engine off” I was in “accessory mode” before. Got a C0710 - 52 and a C0161 - 11. Looking at the diag table for the 0161, looks like I’m troubleshooting the brake pedal position sensor.

Thanks! The little booklet (or at least the only instructions I can find online since mine didn't ship with a paper manual) confirms not to use power jack when DLC is connected. Whoops. Repeated test with Tech2 > 26 pin to 19 pin cable > Candi module > 19 pin to OBD2 adapter and car in...

Well, that’s curious. Got the tech2, connected via the 26 pin connector on the bottom, via the Candi interface block, to the little adapter from the 19 pin round connector to the OBD2 connector. Tech2 plugged into wall outlet. Car in accessory mode, I can scan for DTCs in most of the options...

Yeah, maybe not the best choice of phrase, it was just unintentionally limited volume haha. Cool vehicle!

No XLR experience on those tires, friend runs these on a EcoBoost mustang, has nothing but good things to say about them.

Might as well sticker shock myself now - Mickey if I am in for an ABS module, what’s the availability like on those? A brief search from my end shows discontinued/unavailable from the usual GM vendors, but I think I see in your other posts you’ve got leads on the hard to find stuff. At least...

Was the CT6-V the one with a super bespoke Blackwing engine?

I have factory shop manuals, yes. Thank you for the suggestion!

Followup. Shims are removed and will stay removed. Current plan is to see what the Tech2 finds when it shows up; and if nothing else I'll at least do the ABS bleed since I couldn't do that before, on the chance that some of the contaminated fluid is gumming something up in there. General...