Trunk Relay

[pjfr]

Is there a trunk relay or is everything controlled by fuses? I'm at a bit of an impasse where I can't get the trunk to open or even make a relay click as if it's trying to open.

I've tried 3 TCMs, rebuilt the pump and confirmed it works.

I can open it manually, close it manually and have the latch electronically pull it in to lock it.

It's the final piece to getting my top operable again and I'm totally stumped.

When I try it from the inside with the button or the top lowering button nothing happens. Then I try it with the FOB the tail lights flash but nothing happens.

 

[MPRCTCL]

Reindex your windows. Since the windows open and close with the top, they have to be indexed to know where “up” and “down” actually are. Lower the window and continue to hold the button for four seconds, close it fully and continue to hold again for four seconds, then do the other door.

 

[mickeytee]

Once open manually can you shut it with the underside trunk switch

 

[pjfr]

Once open manually can you shut it with the underside trunk switch

Yes but not always.

 

[pjfr]

Reindex your windows. Since the windows open and close with the top, they have to be indexed to know where “up” and “down” actually are. Lower the window and continue to hold the button for four seconds, close it fully and continue to hold again for four seconds, then do the other door.

Tried that unfortunately

 

[pjfr]

Once open manually can you shut it with the underside trunk switch

Only occasionally. It's either after I reset the battery or unplug and replug the module

 

[beyerch]

Did you ever figure this out? I have a VERY similar situation right now.

If I .......

* Use the Key Fobt, lights will flash but nothing happens, nor do I hear any sign of activity in the trunk area.

* If I press the button by the license plate, I hear BCM click, but absolutely nothing happens. I've put the key fob in the car as well just in case there is an antenna problemn and it didn't see a key. No difference.

* If I put the key in the bumper cylinder, I can manually lift the trunk, buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut, I hear absolutely ZERO signs of life.

Here's where it gets a little interesting.

If I take my Tech II and I command the Trunk Latch to unlock, I hear a VERY audible unlatching sound from trunk area. The lid does not go up; however, I'm not horribly surprised since I'm dealing with a FTC issue.

I'm wondering if there is something w/ my BCM as it seems that wiring must be OK since I can command the switch w/ Tech II. I also noticed while looking at the BCM configuration that it ws configued with 'Folding Top' to ** NO **....

 

[MR Roadster]

Most of the time if the trunk opens the control top module is working, you will need to look at the live data on the module for signs of life and readings.
The famous car wizard had a similar problem with his XLR. The top would not perform a relearn. The problem was the Tech2's vmi was too old and didn't have the updated version. He switched to a newer VCI and was able to do the relearn. The VCI is the box that slides out of the TECH2. As far as the BCM having the folding top equipped check NO. That should fix itself when the top performs the LEARN. I use a XTOOLS D7 and it works fine for the LEARN process and it works on all makes. Mine is a 2005.

 

[mickeytee]

I bought the xtools you recommended and it did not do a relearn. I conntacted the company and was told it was not a function of the tool i needed to upgrade to their pro model to be able to do a relearn so i sent it back. Strange your works when they said it would not but anyway i used the pro and it did relearn but tge diagnostic feature for the top was way off. I use the tech two and its bulky and old and i have three other scanners for other cars only one will do a relearn but if there is a problem, information it gives you will have you chasing your tail all over the place. Then i plug in my tech two and it clearly identifies the problem. All the cars i work on have issues more than a relearn.
The wizard if full of himself. He has a you tube cgannel to make money so he has to create drama for content. At one time he was watchable but now every show is "dealer kept car for 6 months could not find problem but i found it in 5 minutes". i turned him off when i offered the proper radiator for Hoovies v for free just so he could let owners know they were out there. Instead he said he bought the last new one around but then he shows the car and hee put an aftermarket cooler on the wrong radiator. He does nothing but bad mouth our cars and runs prospective buyers away . j and j give him parts but after his last show about how expensive everything is they will be dropping him when he moves. Sorry about the rant. The x tools pro is ok but for the cost not worth it to me.

 

[MR Roadster]

I did notice my Xtools D7 was missing some features if I selected 2006 instead of 2005 on menu. The 2005 menu which is my year has everything I needed. I worn out the obd2 port by plugging and unplugging some many times on my suspension module builds. Running them through all the actuation tests using the tech2. I had to replace the port. Now I use a extension cable and leave it connected. The tech2 is bulky and sometimes it needs to be restarted several times before it finally powers up and the candi light starts flashing. I was always checking and rechecking the connections and had to replace a few of the cables. It's old and connecting and disconnecting the cables too many times can wear it out. I finally figured out a way to bench test them saving my aching back

The car wizard really disappointed me when he was working on his blue 2006 XLR. By replacing and redoing the head bolts he gave a bad impression of the XLR, which never had the head bolt problem. I reached out to him after he said he needed a control top module. I noticed his trunk opened on command so I knew the module was most likely good and all he needed was re-learn. I sent him the instructions. He then sent me a video of his struggles with the tech2. I suggested and newer VCI which solved the problem. In his follow-up video which included the top going up and down he never once mentioned a viewer's help in solving the problem. He recommended me to one of his customers and that person bought a module and a 3rd brake light so I can't be too hard on the wizard.

 

[mickeytee]

Yeah the whole show is staged. J and j bought a top module from me and had me ship it to him. He shipped me his old one. I would not sell him one direct after i had called him when he first started and said the engine came out the bottom not the top. He basiclly told me i know nothing about xlr and he was an expert. So unsure if a relearn fixed it or not. The guy that bought the car posted he has oil leaks from the pan. i hope hoovie goes back to his older days and finds a new better guy

 

[beyerch]

FYI - Trunk operates as expected now and was able to trigger the top learn process.
Two main problems (after all the other sh*t I've already worked through )

- Battery voltage must have been run down as I started seeing phantom DTCs and battery too weak, couldn't even turn over the starter. Put it on the charger for a good amount of time things were behaving better.

- Rear tonneau sensor was "repaired" and whoever did it, flipped the wires which made the FTC *VERY* unhappy. after fixing this I was able to get it to do the learn procedure, though it didn't fully complete due to the loss in battery. (and I haven't had time to re-run this yet, but will)

Speaking of 3rd tail lights, assume those go bad quite a bit? Pretty sure mine is toast as well so that is one of the next projects.

 

[mickeytee]

Just to be clear, i remwnufacture the postition sensors.. The potentiometer s. That hacked up attempt is not my work for sure. Having done several hundred of these so far i was able to spot the bad wiring from a photo.for him.

 

[beyerch]

Just to be clear, i remwnufacture the postition sensors.. The potentiometer s. That hacked up attempt is not my work for sure. Having done several hundred of these so far i was able to spot the bad wiring from a photo.for him.

Yes, to be 100% clear, I'm not implying anyone here did it. I got the car from Florida sight unseen w/ a known top issue & just reporting what I found.

Given the Rear Tonneau counts I was seeing on the Tech II, I theorized the readings were 180o of what you would expect and I was planning on cutting/swapping A&C. After talking to mickeytee, he confirmed that the wires on my sensor were in fact flip flopped and I could more easily flip them by exposing a connector in the housing & just flipping it.


Most likely buying a replacement from mickeytee as well since I don't have a ton of confidence in this one, other than for initial testing of my FTC replacement module.

 

[Bakertech]

Is there a trunk relay or is everything controlled by fuses? I'm at a bit of an impasse where I can't get the trunk to open or even make a relay click as if it's trying to open.

I've tried 3 TCMs, rebuilt the pump and confirmed it works.

I can open it manually, close it manually and have the latch electronically pull it in to lock it.

It's the final piece to getting my top operable again and I'm totally stumped.

When I try it from the inside with the button or the top lowering button nothing happens. Then I try it with the FOB the tail lights flash but nothing happens.

I have a different issue regarding Trunk Lid Operation. I changed the 2 Gas Struts with some difficulty.
For awhile sometime later, the Trunk would open at random times when parked.
It would also open sometimes when I opened either Door.
GM Dealer removed and Cleaned the Trunk Switch. I was told it was badly corroded.
It still malfunctioned. I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes, hoping for a 'reset' or whatever.
Since then it has worked as it should after a few short trips. No parts available of course. Thanks GM.

 

[mickeytee]

Well id like to know what trunk switch the dealer supposedly cleaned. The trunk latch is riveted together and you really cannot take it apart. There is no way to see corrision inside without grinding it apart with no way to put it back together. They do fail but they also can be reset with a tech two. The manual release could be out of adjustment not letting it fully latch but once locked it would take a signal somehow to it to actuate the solenoid. id check the fob and see if its sticking

 

[Bakertech]

I have taken apart and cleaned the Door Switches which is similar I expect to the Trunk Squeeze Switch.
Copper contacts imbedded in rubber as I recall were in the Door switches. Squeezing them puts the 2 panels in contact with each other completing the circuit. Mine is a 2008 model.
The tech and S.M. did not mention grinding rivets. CORROSION of contacts was the problem.
I will check with them to see what the procedure was.

 

[mickeytee]

If they are talking about the soft touch its crazy to try and clean it when i have new ones factory for 50$. to remove all the trim and panels to clean is a waste of money. I highly doubt tgat would cause your problem. Yes you can clean them but you remove the coating on the contacts so they wont last long. The doors being super easy gives someone a sense of accomplishment by cleaning but new ones for 35 or china exact same switch for 20 makes the task seem not worthwhile when its just two screws and you get a clean new soft touch pad with it

 

[Bakertech]

For now, the cleaning of the pads has worked. Nothing available from GM.
It no longer opens randomly and does not open when doors are opened.
1 hr shop time .
Fingers crossed.
gb

 

[mickeytee]

I have the new gm trunk soft touch pads should anyone want one