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I had same problem... damn stealership Don't get me started on stealerships. Your experience is all too common, and is the reason I avoid stealerships whenever possible. The are basically professional b/s 'ers that prey people's lack of knowledge. Now, to your suspension issue... This is a...

Has anyone figured out if it's possible to display the transmission temperature on the DIC (instrument cluster)? :dunno: I'll be doing a fluid level check which requires the fluid temp to be in a certain range. Using a thermometer probe will be difficult if even possible. The owner's manual does...

Transmission fluid level check I'll be checking the trans fluid level for peace of mind, even though there was only a very small amount of fluid loss during radiator replacement - there could have been more fluid in the rad tank that did not drain from old rad. I have confirmed that the...

The condenser mounts on four tabs on the front of the rad, no bolts once lines are disconnected and baffle clips removed, hold baffle back and slide condenser up and out It will tend to hang up on the baffle edges, just work it out slowly If you plan to have the A/C system open for any length of...

remove upper right fan assembly bolt (10mm), this is why we pulled the sway bar remove lower left fan assembly bolt, the fan slide up and out of four mounting tabs on back of rad, you just need to unmount the fan assembly and leave in place, in can rest on the lower rad support disconnect...

The order of disconnection is not important. Disconnect upper condenser fitting on left w/ bolt (1/2") - you discharged the A/C right? below this there is a plastic clip that retains the air baffle (which covers the charge air cooler and condenser), you need to remove this, and one on the other...

remove sway bar to frame mount bolts, remove sway bar you have to maneuver this around the lower P/S line to remove, or disconnect the P/S line first disconnect upper rad hose - hose clamp pliers and hose pick to unseat, you drained the rad didn't you? disconnect upper P/S line on left...

loosen band clamp screw on air intake unplug MAF there are four rubber grommets holding the air cleaner assembly in place, two in the middle here and two at the front of the filter boxes its easiest to unseat all the grommets, then pull off the end with the band clamp, then remove assembly...

JOB DONE!!! That was an interesting learning experience. :thumbsup If your car is still driveable, go to a shop and have your A/C refrigerant recovered (but not filled) before you begin. You have to remove the condenser to remove the radiator. EPA regs blah blah blah Tools and supplies needed...

Condenser must go I've confirmed that the condenser must be removed in order to replace the rad. Well, more specifically, the lower a/c line must be disconnected from the condenser. Once the a/c system is open, you might as well remove the condenser to give yourself a little more space to work...

Generator Cooling I found a good picture of the generator cooling hose assembly. You can see it on the upper left corner of the generator in this pic. The hose that points up and to left goes to the rad. The hose that hooks under and to the right goes to the water pump. I saw another thread...

Thanks Vhappy. It looks like the lines are simple quick connect fittings with a retainer clip. I've got some cheapo fitting removal tools I should be able to use. It looks like u just need to slide the collar of the tool under the retaining clip to make it clear the seat of the fitting, then...

The generator aka alternator return line is at the water pump. First time I've seen a water cooled alternator as well. To clarify, direction of flow is water pump, generator, then rad. Should be marked as inlet on rad, not outlet.

Octopus Rad I ordered a replacement rad today from RockAuto for $230 - AC Delco P/N 10346017. I had to go with the AC Delco unit because the aftermarket rads were missing two connections (for the P/S). My V rad has 8 connections - that's not a typo. They are: 1) Main/Upper Coolant inlet 2)...

Old thread Tony has probably long since figured out his solution, the thread is from 2011. I'm hoping he's out there somewhere though, and can share his experience.

Thanks. I obtained an electronic service manual split into 50 or so files a while back. It seems to have 90% of the information I need, but is missing some sections. The manual does call for removal of the condenser to remove the rad. As far as I can tell though, the only reasons to do so are...

Diagnosis - More Questions I had one of those moments when you slap your forehead :pat: , how did I not see this before? My problem was a lack of understanding how the surge tank cap functions under high pressure. I know exactly what you mean now Vhappy by "upper and lower cylinder". Here you...

Successfully installed I successfully installed the PA-11 VETTE nearly a year ago - as far as I can tell there is no difference to the PA-15. I then used the the aux input to connect to a Rockford Fosgate bluetooth adapter, which plugs into the the power supply in the center console (and also...

I think I need a bit more explanation What kind of pressure tester are you using? A threaded cap adapter connects to a conventional spring loaded cap tester with hand pump. I attached this to my compressor - regulated to 15 psi - due to the large volume of air in the reservoir (surge tank in...

Condenser Replacement Necessary? How has your repair to the condenser gone? The service manual states that the drier/dehydrator is integrated to the condenser and is non-serviceable. Did you figure out a way to service the drier, or just put the old condenser back on with no problems (other...