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Did you leave the window down while stored? If so, the track might have swelled slightly. Options: a Do nothing. By leaving the glass up, the track might return to the correct shape. b If that doesn't work, use some lubricant on the track - a silicone spray used at tiny quantities might...

Carbon build up on inlet valves? What brand gas is your X running on?

Soo, no codes? That is odd. If I am reading you correctly, on pressing the start button, you get plenty of crank but no engine start. Is that correct? Your X then goes on attempting to start by cranking again and staying in that loop until you stop it. When you say no codes, what are you...

If you are getting all sorts of weird codes, first stop is replace the battery. Even if it is enough to crank, still replace it. XLRs are amazingly sensitive to battery problems.

I removed tint from the rear glass with the roof fully up. I don't recall it being difficult to reach. I wouldn't put on the defroster, but getting a decent sun load on to warm it will likely help. The biggest challenge is not damaging the defroster wires.

If you are not getting on with the site's search, try using Google with the site command. On the end of your search string in Google put a space and then "site:www.xlr-net.com" I typed the next line into Google and got many relevant hits (without the double quotes). "hydraulic pump...

Are there any after market accessories? Eg new radio/nav system? Basic approach is to remove a bunch of fuses at a time until you find the set that fixes the problem. Once you have the set, put half back. Keep working on half at a time (ie half of half) until you find the one. If you pull 16...

In my view it is better to fix the root cause of the problem. A stronger spring is not really a fix, more a work-around.

True, the XLR did not have one, but a wrecker's yard might be able to advise of one that will fit anyway. Depends what you want.

If you look at how this page is formatted, each response has a separator bar (colored line), with the date/time on the left and a response number on the right. Your first is #1, the first reply is #2 and this is #3. Commonly, the first post is also called the 'OP', the 'Original Post'. The...

I have never tried this and you would have a 50mph speed restriction, but are there any space saver spares that would do what you need? Easier to store and transport. It will need to fit over the brake calipers. You might be able to pack one in the trunk if you were going a bit further...

The XLR does not have conventional high and low beam, it has discharge lamps and shutters.

Are your headlights on on low ok?

With alloy wheels this is common. A copper based grease (O'Reillys sell it, on shelf by brake cleaner) in tiny quantities helps to stop the lug nut jamming on the thread when a bit of alloy gets caught in it. It is critical that there is no grease on the 'cone' end of the lug nut, this seats...

That isn't cold. 'Cold' refers to an Alaskan winter, or Canada. DOT 4 will likely appear to work, but it is getting too viscus for the ABS/Stabil trac (ESP) valve control system to work properly and risks cavitation problems.

Steve, 60-65 is dangerously low. You need to fix that to the correct 100 immediately. Always tighten the lugs in a sort of diamond pattern. I tighten to 60 first and then go to 100, can't speak for others but I have never had to tighten a lug nut when I go back to check after about 100 miles...

Just for info, the carbon build up has an almost trivial affect on compression BUT, it glows red/white hot and pre-ignites the fuel. Ideally you need to get it removed as explained here. And for my benefit, does anyone know why it doesn't just burn off? It is a creamy/white hard deposit, not...

I do hope your brake fluid was not 10 years old. It should be replaced (fully flushed) every two - three years. As the XLR is a performance car, every two years is indicated.

You should use a low viscosity (ESP) formulation. And DOT 3 if it gets very cold.

I explained how to get to the solenoid years ago. I'll look for the thread. Your symptoms match the 'puller' in the solenoid needing lubrication. It is here, step #9. Gas Cap Door Solenoid