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I think I F---ed-up

johnpbaird

Seasoned Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
131
Location
Bakersfield, California
My XLR/V(s)
2005 XLR Silver
While attempting to open the fill plug on my Differential, I stripped the hex hole in the plug,......

Besides,...." awwww sh--, anybody have any tips on how to remove it? :confused:
 
While attempting to open the fill plug on my Differential, I stripped the hex hole in the plug,......

Besides,...." awwww sh--, anybody have any tips on how to remove it? :confused:

Get yourself a magnetized allen wrench, I think that is the tool required for that plug, and carefully try to back it out. If you can not find a magnetized tool, get a 6 volt lantern battery and about 10 feet of 20 gauge enamaled insulated copper wire and wrap it tightly around the tool for about 1 to 2 inches, over lap the windings but you do not want any less than 1 inch or more than 2 inches coiled around the tool.
I'm assuming the tool is steel, not aluminum, and strip about an inch of enamal off the ends.
When you connect it to the - and + terminals of the battery, the tool will be magnetized. It's been a while since I've had to do this but I think the length and gauge of the wire will be about 5 to 10 Ohms so your battery should last about 30 minutes. If the coiled wire gets to hot to hold on to, you'll have to add more wire but first, check the tool as this process will magnetize it. To de-magnetize the tool, strike it sharply on a solid steel item.
If none of this works, I think you're going to have to remove the rear cover and reach in and some how apply pressure to the inside of the plug and try to force it back while turning it with the tool.
When you have sucessfully removed the plug, you're probably going to find out the housing is stripped, not the plug. Now you're going to have to re-tap the hole to the next size and get a matching plug to fit it.

I sure hope this helps you, been there, done that.
 
Is any of the plug length protruding from the cover? If so, maybe there is enough to take a new pair of vice grips (with sharp edges on its teeth) and grip it, using the sides of the jaws not the ends. and carefully work the plug out. Also a new small pipe wrench may work Also if the plug is steel, a capable arc welder may be able to weld a bolt cap with a short shank to the plug to enable use of a box end wrench.

Rusty 06 V


While attempting to open the fill plug on my Differential, I stripped the hex hole in the plug,......

Besides,...." awwww sh--, anybody have any tips on how to remove it? :confused:
 
If not mistakin that's a metric Allen size. If the Allen is stripped I would drive it around alittle to calm yourself. Which your also heating up the differential or heat up with some heat"torch". But the torch might discolor your metal. Then take a easy-out that fits the Allen hole and tap with a hammer in the Allen hole. The easy out has fluted ridges that are spun counterclockwise. Which when you are turning the easy counterclockwise it penetrates deeper into your hole"Allen" socket. I use these all the time and if done properly they will get you home free. Is the Allen socket stripped the whole depth of the hole. If not you can also try tapping the correct key into the hole which is pretty deep and that might straight the walls out in the hole. Good luck and remember righty tighty lefty loosey.
 
FYI the rear cover as you should know doesn't contain the drain bolt. The drain bolt is in the diff. housing itself. Yes if you stripped the threads on the housing you will have to helicoil it or youse a timesert which is similar to a helicoil. Remember that plug isn't a suspension bolt. It maybe requires 10 ft lbs of torque if not in lbs. good luck
 
WTF !

Get yourself a magnetized allen wrench, I think that is the tool required for that plug, and carefully try to back it out. If you can not find a magnetized tool, get a 6 volt lantern battery and about 10 feet of 20 gauge enamaled insulated copper wire and wrap it tightly around the tool for about 1 to 2 inches, over lap the windings but you do not want any less than 1 inch or more than 2 inches coiled around the tool.
I'm assuming the tool is steel, not aluminum, and strip about an inch of enamal off the ends.
When you connect it to the - and + terminals of the battery, the tool will be magnetized. It's been a while since I've had to do this but I think the length and gauge of the wire will be about 5 to 10 Ohms so your battery should last about 30 minutes. If the coiled wire gets to hot to hold on to, you'll have to add more wire but first, check the tool as this process will magnetize it. To de-magnetize the tool, strike it sharply on a solid steel item.
If none of this works, I think you're going to have to remove the rear cover and reach in and some how apply pressure to the inside of the plug and try to force it back while turning it with the tool.
When you have sucessfully removed the plug, you're probably going to find out the housing is stripped, not the plug. Now you're going to have to re-tap the hole to the next size and get a matching plug to fit it.

I sure hope this helps you, been there, done that.

I'm really curious about your response. What does magnatizm have to do with aluminum??
 
Well,........

If not mistakin that's a metric Allen size. If the Allen is stripped I would drive it around alittle to calm yourself. Which your also heating up the differential or heat up with some heat"torch". But the torch might discolor your metal. Then take a easy-out that fits the Allen hole and tap with a hammer in the Allen hole. The easy out has fluted ridges that are spun counterclockwise. Which when you are turning the easy counterclockwise it penetrates deeper into your hole"Allen" socket. I use these all the time and if done properly they will get you home free. Is the Allen socket stripped the whole depth of the hole. If not you can also try tapping the correct key into the hole which is pretty deep and that might straight the walls out in the hole. Good luck and remember righty tighty lefty loosey.

I really appreciate your comment and your advice, but I broke down and went to the dealer.
In less than an hour, it was done.
The Mechanic used some sort of punch and on the outer edge, punched the plug, in a counter rotation and it began to spin.
Whew! :worship:
 
I'm really curious about your response. What does magnatizm have to do with aluminum??

The magnetism has nothing to do with aluminum John, it's to help gently pull the steel plug back to possibly connect to threads that may be there in the housing so you can unscrew the plug from it. The housing itself is aluminum and if there is a steel plug used in it, chances are if something is going to strip, it's going to be the aluminum housing.

Sorry for not clarifying that in my reply.
 

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