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Trunk sinks closed after opening

So, how many gas cylinders are there? I count 4, 2 behind each taillight, and what looks like 2 more way in the front of the trunk. The gmpartsdirect parts diagrams don’t show all 4, so,I don’t know if they’re all the same part number. And yes, I know the difference between the hydraulic cylinders and the gas struts.
 
Hey

Just 2 . One right side, one left . They stand up and down. A bit more awkward to deal with the one on the driver's side. The others referenced, if you look closely, have little hydraulic lines running to them. The ones you are after are gas shocks and have no lines running to them.

Bill
 
The part numbers in this thread, do they cover only 2004 models or all years?
 
Gas struts

Just 2 . One right side, one left . They stand up and down. A bit more awkward to deal with the one on the driver's side. The others referenced, if you look closely, have little hydraulic lines running to them. The ones you are after are gas shocks and have no lines running to them.

Bill




No, Bill. Just climb into the trunk head first way in under the rear window. At the hanging cloth protecting the horizontal hydraulic cylinder, on each side, is a gas strut, NO hydraulic lines going to them. I know where the rear hydraulic lift cylinders are, they’re mounted up near the top of each rear fender. These gas struts seem to have a mounting point somewhere down in the trunk floor frame, and the top is on what looks like an elaborate cross-body hinge system. I know the two gas struts you’re talking about, those are easy to get to and are mounted true vertically, in each side pocket of the trunk floor right behind the taillight. So I’m trying to figure out if those front gas struts do in fact assist the hydraulics in raising and lowering the roof. Sally, if those do this function, I’m not sure anyone has ever changed them on this forum, because there’s no way to physically compress those struts while you’re lying prone on your stomach to access them.
 
Those cylinders mount almost horizontally and with the roof up, and trunk open, obviously, they look half-compressed, so I don’t dare try to remove them without knowing the consequences. They seem to assist the main lift hydraulic cylinders in opening and closing the roof.
 
with the trunk open they are under very little pressure .they are extended all the way except for 1/8 to 1/4 inch so no danger in removing them. The trunk must be held up nd supported well.. not a friend doing it but a 2x4 or something as stong .the trunk without the struts is very heavy.
 
Just remove the two travel stops screws near the top of the mech then you can raise the lid up enough to wiggle the to knuckle into the ball there is a post intitled must read in this forum that provide a picture of the location of the travel stops screws. Be sure to reinstall them after the structs are in otherwise will damage the trunk.
 
So, when I open my trunk, it slowly closes by itself. I checked the linkage and other obvious things. Thought you all might be able to point me in the right direction.
I know it's not the battery because I just installed a new 640 CCA (which, by the way cured my top not going down problem)
I have not experienced the trunk problem while the car is running or in Aux, but I haven't tried that.
Maybe a hydraulic fluid bleeding issue? My pump fluid is at the full line.
Please help. I'm tired of getting my head hit (softly) with the trunk lid.:bash:
 
the good thing is the retaining clips do not have to be reused. the right side is the easiest to get to. just pry the clip back and slip the strut off. snapping the new one on is the problem or can be. They are just a touch too long so the trunk has to be at its peak. it gets really heavy when you take them off. I reomment a good solid 2x4 to loh it up as a prop rod can slip and its going to hurt . They take right at 250 pounds to compress. I have a tool sent out for a member to use and he is going to just send it tothe next perso nthat wants to use it. its just a threaded rod with some brackets welded on and a nut so you can compress the strut enought to slip on. the clip on the lower left is the hardest to remove and needs a thin long bladed screwdriver or similiar to remove it. dont worry if the cllips fly off as the new struts have them on them.
My 2008 is suffering the same symptoms, and so is my head! I have already bought the struts (Amazon) but would love to have the tool sent to me whenever it is my turn to use and send it along the way to the next guy. I live in Montana so I am not putting my baby out there in the yuck they spray the roads with these days. So if it takes until the spring for me to use the tool, I would be very happy to use it. Thanks for helping out us semi backyard mechanics.!
 
My 2008 is suffering the same symptoms, and so is my head! I have already bought the struts (Amazon) but would love to have the tool sent to me whenever it is my turn to use and send it along the way to the next guy. I live in Montana so I am not putting my baby out there in the yuck they spray the roads with these days. So if it takes until the spring for me to use the tool, I would be very happy to use it. Thanks for helping out us semi backyard mechanics.!
No need for a tool if you remove the limit secrew on the left trunk sizzers you can lift the lid high enought to install the struts I did it my self small torq head screw be sure to reinstall after the struts a completed
 
The tool the other poster made made it easy to pop the bottom ball in place on the left side plus it compressed the shock making it easier and quicker than removing the screw.
 

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