2007 XLR top up/down sequance; trunk does not close

[muss2.0]

The trunk and top stopped working and the dashshowed an “overheat” message. The trunkwas manually opened and the pump & control unit was submerged in water inthe trunk well. The unit had beenrunning while under water. A used unit(valve block/solenoids/harness/motor/circuit board) was installed. New top fluid was used and the top &trunk came back to life. However, at theend of the top up or down cycle, the trunk would not close. During the top “down” sequence, just afterlowering the R/L wings & back deck, the hyd seems to stall and the trunk doesnot close. Observation shows the hyd isrunning but it seems be forcing the top down instead of closing the trunk. If the top down button is released and pushedagain, the trunk will close normally. Duringthe top “up” sequence, just after lowering the R/L wings & back deck, thehyd seems to again stall and the trunk does not close. Observationshows the hyd is running but it seems be forcing the top down instead ofclosing the trunk. If the top up buttonis released and pushed again, the trunk does “not” close. Observation shows the hyd is running but itseems be forcing the top down. If thetrunk “lid” button is pushed, the trunk will close normally. Note; the trunk will open and close normallywith the trunk lid outside & inside buttons.<o></o>
Q– Any suggestion on where to start looking?<o></o>
Q – Could running the unit submergedhave caused damage else ware?<o></o>
Q– Is there a troubleshooting procedure to pin point the cause?<o></o>

 

[rexster314]

You need access to a TECH II tool and perform a top relearn. That's happened to me several times. That's my guess

 

[muss2.0]

we tried a high end diagnostic scanner but didn't see the relearn option.
Q - Is the Tech II a dealer tool only?

================

followed up with dealer; could be a quick relearn @ $80 or program wipe/load @ $200.

 

[long Tall Sally]

aftermarket tech twos are around 400$ or less . You will want to get one and learn to use it as that estimate from the dealer will usually double or triple as they try and learn how to work on the car at your expense. Might as well learn yourself. A lot of people on here have bought them and used them. With a little help you can be a pro and save time and money on the car

 

[IAN]

Hi Muss2.0

Find attached some photos with a text that shows how ro proceed for a reboot.
These photos will confirmed the affirmation of rexster in doing so.

Sally says that the tool is available, perhaps on eBay, however make sure that you are getting the Teck2 with all its components, as some time they are not always included in its low price.

In regarding water in the well of the top module area is due to a blocked drain tube most of the time, if you want to check if the XLR have been soaked badly, on the passenger floor carpet, behind it there is a large fuse box (block ) check

for corrosion on ​

the connections and the fuses as well, the relays block and the additional fuse box locate at the lower of the large fuse ( block ) call also BCM .

Get familiar with the top functions on eBay, the repair shop owner ( Top hydraulics )has made many videos on how the top works and for its repairs…. that would be a good star for you.

Good luck

IAN

 

[rexster314]

we tried a high end diagnostic scanner but didn't see the relearn option.
Q - Is the Tech II a dealer tool only?

================

followed up with dealer; could be a quick relearn @ $80 or program wipe/load @ $200.

That's a BS quote. It's all done using the same screen on the tool for both. If you do this, just do the relearn.

 

[rexster314]

Hi Muss2.0

Find attached some photos with a text that shows how ro proceed for a reboot.
These photos will confirmed the affirmation of rexster in doing so.

Sally says that the tool is available, perhaps on eBay, however make sure that you are getting the Teck2 with all its components, as some time they are not always included in its low price.

In regarding water in the well of the top module area is due to a blocked drain tube most of the time, if you want to check if the XLR have been soaked badly, on the passenger floor carpet, behind it there is a large fuse box (block ) check

for corrosion on ​

the connections and the fuses as well, the relays block and the additional fuse box locate at the lower of the large fuse ( block ) call also BCM .

Get familiar with the top functions on eBay, the repair shop owner ( Top hydraulics )has made many videos on how the top works and for its repairs…. that would be a good star for you.

Good luck

IAN

View attachment 9450View attachment 9451View attachment 9452

Not just a TECH II tool, but the CANDI module that's needed for car communications

 

[muss2.0]

This all started after a cracked windshield wasreplaced. A short time later it wasobserved that on raining days and when making turns, a significant amount ofwater would come out of the window defrost vents located at the left &right front pillar. I removed the pillarcovers and traced the leak to the very top corner. Believing the leak was originating at theupper corner of the windshield, I used a hose to spray the windshield/hood/roofarea to reproduce the leak. A very dumbmove on my part!!!!! Unknown to me, therear trunk seal was damaged and water was quickly leaking into the trunk areacausing the well area to fill up. Atsome point I turned off the water hose spray and tried to open the top to backtrack the leak path. It was at thispoint the top did not operate and the overheat message was displayed. I tried to open the truck to begintroubleshooting the top motor overheat message. After manually opening the trunk I observed the top pump & controlwas completely submerged. This bringsme up to my initial thread. I amconfident that the trunk issue will be resolved via the Tech II.


I will be submitting a separate thread on thewater leak.
Q– Any suggestions on what could have happened after the windshield replacementto cause the upper corner water leak?

 

[long Tall Sally]

the leak where water comes out of the vents on the windshield post is due to the drain tube on each side being stopped up. they drain out the bottom of the car under the right fender area. The tube may be unattached at the rubber seal on the front roof gasket. The rear water leak has been addressed and there is a repair procedure from gm. It usually leaks at the foremost corner of the deck lid on the left side

 

[muss2.0]

FYI- I am mechanically inclined but internet inept.

Referencethe trunk water leak; I saw the damage/tear of the trunk seal at the left rearcorner. Have not yet tried to repairit.
Q - Can you expand on the “GM repair procedure"?
Q – Where can I get a copy of the GM repairinstructions?

Referencethe windshield leak; the outside “A” pillar molding/gasket and seals have beendisassembled/inspected several times by the “windshield man” in attempts tostop the leak. Glass man focused more onresealing the windshield than the how the seals & gaskets were meant togo. I did not see the area before thewindshield was replaced so I cannot say if the windshield is wrong or it isassembled incorrectly and/or parts are missing. I am confident the drain tube is not restricted because there is no standingwater in it. As well, I have confirmedthe drain tube is clear with air and physically using a flexible wire. Close inspection of the rubber channels underthe “A” post molding “seems” to be correct. However, I have not been able to understand how the water from under thewindshield/sealant/gasket top area gets over to the drain portion of the sealon the side.
Q – Could an “Aftermarket” windshield be missingparts needed to correctly flow the water at the upper corner area?
Q – Does the XLR & Corvette use the “same”windshield?
Q – Is it true that the XLR ( and Corvette) windshielddesign is very different design than a standard vehicle?

 

[IAN]

Hi Muss2.0

Sally has well said the problems, the rear is a known problem, the water follow the gravity, so it can not be in trunk and in the driver side passenger at the same time.

The trunk floor level is about 24'' higher then the driver side floor, you seems to have 2 problems of water introduced in each area of the car.

As far is the windshield, its well is were water gets in and the drain tube is were the excess gets out.
As you told us the water is coming out of the ventilations openings, that indicate that the well is full of water and it has no other way to come out.

My question is the drain tube really OK and why then the water remain in the well. could it be debris of the repaired glass, a flood car or a mouse family home.

Did you check the passenger side BCM ans its components for corrosion.

Attached are photos that confirm our sayings.

Good Luck.

IAN

 

[long Tall Sally]

link to discussion on trunk leak
https://www.xlr-net.com/forums/cadi...1-trunk-leak.html?highlight=trunk+leak+repair

 

[muss2.0]

Thx for the feedback but there seems to be someconfusion and misunderstanding about the facts and action taken. There are definitely two separate unrelatedleaks;
The trunk leak has beenevident for over a year, indicated by a small damp area on the trunk carpet. It wasn’t until to “hosed” down the roof/trunkarea looking for the A pillar leak that I swamped the top unit. I eventually found that leak at a damagedsection of the trunk seal. Because thiscompression portion of the seal needs to “compress/flex” to work properly, therepair method needs to be thought thru. Figured the GM repair could provide some insight on “how” to make therepair.

The interior of the car didnot have any leaks and no appearance of any leak was present until thewindshield was replaced. I can say forcertainty that the A pillar vent leak started the day after a crackedwindshield was replaced. The leak was sobad that it was running down the inside of the pillar and filling up thebackside of the leather pillar cover then out the vent. After removing the leather cover, the leakwas traced back all the way to the top corner. The out side A pillar molding was removed and the seal/drain inspected. There is no evidence of any other issue (notmice, no debris, clogged drain, deformed seal, ect). Here is some related information; I washaving other repairs to top mechanism at that time and the Cadillac XLR mechanicsaid the ”roof” is compressing the front main seal properly and not the “cause”of the leak. the Cadillac XLR dealer wasunable to make the initial windshield repair because they did not have glass manat that time. The Cadillac dealer didnot want to attempt to fix the leak created by the other Vendor windshieldreplacement job (can’t blame them). So,in summary; the windshield is replaced and a leak is created somehow. Closeinspection of the main roof seal, windshield placement, side pillar gasket,foam, seal and drain showed on obvious reason for the new A pillar leak. However, I did notice that any water leakingpast the main seal to windshield press fit would travel out to each side. There isno apparent path for this water to get to the “Drain”, so the water travelsaround the windshield sealant corner and down the pillar. Once on the pillar, ittravels around the side of the pillar and to the inside leather cover area,hence the internal leak at the very top pf the A pillar area and the lowervent. Since both side are leaking in thesame manner, I cant compare them to determine thing is missing or assembledincorrectly.

 

[IAN]

muss2.0

The good news is you know now the wet trunk problem and what to do, also we get to know that the windshield well is also free of debris.

The windshield is to be concerned, you mentioned that the old glass was cracked, usely it is due to an impact close to the windshield frame or a body torsion on the windshield glass frame, or the glass do not seat properly on its framing.

If the windshield was replace by a none original glass it could be a problem….. we dont know it.

Obviously since the A pillar get badly wet, the windshield could to be the problem….. that is an opinion only, as we are not present to see really the damages.

The repair shop usely has a warranty on parts and labor, he is the one with the expertise that would fix properly your XLR….it would be wise to do a visit at his shop, again.

Good luck

IAN

 

[long Tall Sally]

what you seem to describe is a sealant leak but most glass companies are pretty good at what they do. You most likely used safelight because other than GM that is the only glass I have found. They both are made by the same company. if the urethan sealant has a void that could be your leak but both sides sounds strange. The way we test for leaks is to spray the outside windshield area with some foamy windy cleaner then with 15-20 psi air hose on the inside of the car blow air all along the inner edges of the glass. any air bubbles will show your you leak. I am sort of with ian. water leaks are the glass companies responsibility. If you had you comp insurance pay for it make a claim. they will either make the glass company redo it or pay someone else to find it and repair. only a couple of ways for water to get in above the dash height. The windshield to body seal or the drain tube gasket to body or drain tube line . I can tell you if water gets in the post and not the tube it comes out all around the vent duct. seen it, fixed it. I have a car I am going to put a windshield in so I might photo the parts and see what you are referring to. Yes the trunk leak was a result of the water off the roof going into the trunk. not the same leak but from the same hosing

 

[muss2.0]

Sorryfor the long winded responses I have been providing, not that good at thisforum stuff.

Hereis another side note; the windshield manhad put the top down to make it easier to replace the windshield. At some point a “large roll of tape” was on theleft rear folding wing. The glass manmade an attempt to put the top up so std tape could be used to hold thewindshield in place. However, when thetop was being put back up, the roll of “protection tape” fell down into thelinkage/levers and brackets resulting in a $6K dealer repair to the topmechanisium. Of course the glass mandenied anything to do with it until I provide vedio of what happened. The glass man reluctenly paid the bill. After the top was working again, the glassman tried to correct the leak several times; used the foam/air trick,removed/inspected/resealed windshield. Everyonewas confident that the windshield to sealant to frame was good and not thesource of the leak. But we still had theleak that starts at the very top corner of both A pillars. Then I flooded the top control while tryingto pin pint the leak source my self. Glassman said they couldn’t properly troubleshoot the leak until the top wasfixed. It has taken over a year to getthe parts/info/time for me to get the top working again. The glass man still has a bad taste over the$6K bill they had to pay so getting them involved a year later is notlikely. I feel they are not “competent”enough to really troubleshoot and diagnose the leak problem anyway. I pretty much took over the windshield leakjob. Had several friends look at theparts/seal/gasket area and they too don’t understand how the water at the topseal is supposed to get to the drain. Ifeel that the original windshield and a seal/gutter type part that was notremoved and put on the new GM stamped windshield. Iguess I will have to post some pictures to fully explain what I am trying tosay. To make matters worse (maybe better!?!?!?) thecurrent windshield just got a bad chip/crack. Plan to have a GM dealer that does a lot of Corevette windshileds makethe repair. Maybe they can resolve this.

PS;will be able to get access to a Tech II last updated 2010.

 

[IAN]

muss 2.0

If you get again the windshield (for a chip/crack), replaced by a GM corvette/XLR dealer

ask him to check this seal,( find the drawing enclosed ) the problem could be it.

That perticular vital seal for leaking on the A pillar should have been inspected, there is no info's that it was done.


Good luck

IAN​

 

[muss2.0]

yes,that is the seal that I am talking about. The seal upper corners have a “funnel/cup” area that leads to the “drainsystem”. The rearward facing portion ofthis seal deals with any water that might leak under the roof top by channelingit left or right towards a molded funnel area has a passage to the drainsystem. This water then becomes trappedin the drain system thru the “triangle” cavity and exits the drain tube locatedin the outer lower door jam area. Pleaseunderstand that the “front” facing portion of this same seal sits against the topedge of the windshield glass. The sealactually does not go any further outward than the side edge of thewindshield. The water collected in theportion of the seal has no path to the funnel area. The water appears to just travel under thefunnel area by passing the drain system completely. Water begins to seep inside within minutes. The remaining water that does not seep in,appears to travel over the outside of the pillar meeting a side moldingmounting gasket that seals/stops it from seeping “inside”. The water then travels along the gasket downthe pillar to the door jam area or seal area
Q - Does anybody have more a detailedview and/or pictures of this seal corner area?

 

[IAN]

muss2.0

Glad for you and good luck.

IAN

 

[long Tall Sally]

well I sort of don't blame the glass guy. I see no way that a roll of masking tape could damage the top to that extent. Both hinge assy, hoses, pump, lines ,roof module and you still are under 6000. Sounds like another dealer that doe not have a clue so "lets just replace everything and hope we get it covered". I have seen tops trying to fight the wind and as soon as there is resistance the overload kicks in and shuts down the system.