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Help! Fuel tank smell.

DTPantera

Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Las Vegas
I've searched here and not 100% sure what my problem is, but there is a fuel smell when tanks are full. I've tried to find and investigate a new fuel tank and they don't seem to be available. Did they get better as the year models got newer? Like is a used 2009 fuel tank better than a 2006, or was this problem diagnosed after 2009?
I'm sure the extended warranty by GM is well over with now and that's not an option.

Thanks for any responses.
 
Usually a crack in either the top of the tank if you dont see a leak or if you see a small keak after you stop the top of the fuel pump gets a crack in them. Ive heard of tank cracks on all years even thought they have changed them a couple of times.
 
I had the same problem with my 2008. Bought it used. After filling the tanks and parked overnight in the garage, strong odor of gas. Took it to a Cadillac dealer. Bad gasket on the top of one tank where the fuel pump enters. Had to replace the pump. Not cheap. Have to drop the rear differential to drop the saddle tanks. 2200.00 total.
 
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Anyone have any idea where to get a new LH, driver side tank. Plenty of used one's on Ebay but I'm pretty sure you wouldn't have an idea of what you're buying.
Thanks
 
Just went through dreaded C6 and XLR fuel pump replacement because of the cracked fuel connection at the fuel pump.

The best and most accurate DIY Youtube video by Drew Mann is about 1 hour long.


Absolutely, on our automatic XLR cars, you must remove the left rear muffle. It takes a little time but will save you hours of grief.

An important part is the pressure return line zip tie fix at about 42 minutes. The original fuel line retainer locator fingers will most likely break during disassembly. Not to worry. No drilling required. Use 4" long small zip ties to locate the tank fitting. I left my zip ties snug, not tight, so the pressure and return lines in the crossover tube had just a little movement.

During dissassembly, I was not able to pull the crossover tube back far enough to see the stuck fuel lines inside the crossover tube. I found on Reddit a tip where a guy removed the right inner fender so he could attach a pull cord from the right side to the crossover tube left side locking ring. Link below. It worked great. I improvised and used some light gage wire/cable and a 4" radiator clamp to attach the wires to the crossover locking ring. Using two wires spaced evenly allows you to retract the crossover tube straighter for easier removal and later assembly. I used clamps to secure the wire in the right wheel well after I pulled the crossover tube. I was able to easily open a gap of 1" or more and revealed the pressure lines fitting. I wouldn't use a "come-along" or heavy duty clamp because if you collapse the crossover tube, you'r screwed. My fuel line fitting was stuck because of normal o-ring fitting friction. Now that I could access the fitting, I was able to overcome the normal o-ring friction with a pick in just a couple of minutes.

Although I did not use Electrical household wire, copper 14 gage electrical wire, I think two strands of 14 Ga wire would be perfect for strength and required flexibility to get over the transmission to the right side wheel well. Make a loop in one end of the wire and place radiator clamp in loops. Secure the clamp to the crossover tube then pull the wires snug at first, mark the wires in the right wheel well with tape so you can pull / retract the crossover tube straight, or straighter, from the tank.

Reddit link:

Securing the above wire/cable with a 4" radiator clamp also will give you much better leverage to rotate the locking ring for removal and installation. It also help you locate the ring correctly for assembly. I was able to engage the locking ring tabs easily by hand but could not muster enough strength in the tight space to lock it into place, even after lubrication all the surfaces. With the radiator clamp on the locking ring, I was able to place one hand above the fitting for support, use a 24" socket extension with a 5/16" socket on it, to easily push / rotate the locking ring into location.

Good luck
 
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Ive done several. Just nuts and bolts and tight spaces. If you dont repace the Left fuel crossover lines you may be doing it again. I sell those new. Plus actualky knowing which pump and gauge to use because the wrong one is listed on almost all the do it yourself sites and your gauge will not work. Means pulling the tank out again.the upper crossever twist lock can be a pain if you dont have strong small hand. Ill have to look to see what a string would accomplish. Ive not run into anything that did not go into place from the left side.
If you can do it yourself its saves a ton. Dealers will get 2000-2500.
 
I just went through the left Fuel Pump replacement in January 2025.

It is definingly DIY doable but the crossover tube with fuel lines is not an easy process.

Look around on this forum for my post on tricks I learned on my XLR.
 
Whats your trick for getting the ood swollen pump out and getting the new one with lines back in the tank without crimping?
 
I think my pump was as installed when new. It wasn't coming out easily. I approached the pump removal from tank differently than what I've seen on Youtube.

The pump assembly has a "bucket" covering the pump held in place by 3 tabs. I removed the bucket from the pump assembly while in the tank. Used a screw driver to release the tabs. The bucket fell to the bottom of the tank and the remaining pump assemble was fairly easy to remove. No interference.

The bucket was undamaged but laying inside the tank. Attached a length of insulated stranded electrical wire through the bucket eyelets. The wire has plenty of strength so you can pull on the bucket. I used a feeler gage to get the bucket eyelets and wire started through the tank opening and was able to wiggle / pull it out without much effort. I think removing the bucket from the pump assembly allows the bucket deform as necessary to slide through the tank opening. IMO.

My backup plan was to use a tin snip and reach into the tank and cut up the bucket.
 
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Good description.pretty close to the way i do it. Id love to see how the factory got it all in there on an assembly line. Haha
 

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