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Gas Door Solenoid

Steve Lee

Seasoned Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
507
Location
spring hill
My XLR/V(s)
2005
Some one in a previous post of mine, said that they had wriiten a thread about how to easily :dunno:get at that solenoid to oil it.I would greatly appreciate it if someone would tell me how. I think mine might need a drop of 3 in 1 oil.
 
email

to my regular (off site) email ??

I got the email to: slee001@tampabay.rr.com; clicked on the thread in it, and it took me back to the "I sent you an Email." thread ????? what's with that??? Can you just explain how to get, step #9 Gas cap solenoid? Call me if you can 352 666 9916,Florida time.I'm here for the duration, ( until bed around 11pm,) and I am a batchelor. Also, how long is the spring for the gas door?Steve
 
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this is what that post said

Here is how to lubricate the solenoid.

Outline:
Remove driver's side rear wheel.
Remove wheelhouse liner (a large number of screws ~11 and two stud retainers)
Remove trunk inner side trim (no need to remove carpet but you do need to remove the sill plate) disconnect the light, one T15 undoes the plastic trim on the divider bracket (there are no other catches, it pulls apart), disconnect switch cable, three retainers; work the two manual release handles through the fabric (mine was glued over).
Locate the solenoid, there is a single 10mm bolt holding it in place. It is hidden behind a bundle of hydraulic hoses. Standing outside your XLR, looking at the rear wheel, roughly it is at the 2 o'clock position.
Undo the latch from the filler, manipulate a section of the cable into the trunk. (Push it backwards)
I also disconnected the solenoid's electrical connector (from underneath).

That is the easy bit.

Now, move the solenoid rearwards. There is no room and the rubber sound deadening grips the solenoid in place. There is a small hook on the solenoid's fixing plate and this has to be pushed outwards at the same time as moving the unit rearwards. This is tricky.

Eventually, there is enough room to turn the unit upside down (rotate along its axis).

This reveals the design. There is a nylon tube with a figure-8 shaped nylon block running inside it. The solenoid pulls the top half and the manual release the bottom half.

I used a fine oil, putting a small amount onto a screwdriver blade so I dropped a controlled amount into the mechanism. Suddenly both the manual release and the return went easy and smooth, far better than it has ever been before. The gas filler door shuts more smoothly as well.

It was then a matter of reassembly, ensuring the right amount of cable was between the latch and where it goes inside the wheelhouse (into the trunk).

Removing the solenoid looks almost impossible hence lubricating the one already there.
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Gas door latch and solenoid

Here is how to lubricate the solenoid.

Outline:
Remove driver's side rear wheel.
Remove wheelhouse liner (a large number of screws ~11 and two stud retainers)
Remove trunk inner side trim (no need to remove carpet but you do need to remove the sill plate) disconnect the light, one T15 undoes the plastic trim on the divider bracket (there are no other catches, it pulls apart), disconnect switch cable, three retainers; work the two manual release handles through the fabric (mine was glued over).
Locate the solenoid, there is a single 10mm bolt holding it in place. It is hidden behind a bundle of hydraulic hoses. Standing outside your XLR, looking at the rear wheel, roughly it is at the 2 o'clock position.
Undo the latch from the filler, manipulate a section of the cable into the trunk. (Push it backwards)
I also disconnected the solenoid's electrical connector (from underneath).

That is the easy bit.

Now, move the solenoid rearwards. There is no room and the rubber sound deadening grips the solenoid in place. There is a small hook on the solenoid's fixing plate and this has to be pushed outwards at the same time as moving the unit rearwards. This is tricky.

Eventually, there is enough room to turn the unit upside down (rotate along its axis).

This reveals the design. There is a nylon tube with a figure-8 shaped nylon block running inside it. The solenoid pulls the top half and the manual release the bottom half.

I used a fine oil, putting a small amount onto a screwdriver blade so I dropped a controlled amount into the mechanism. Suddenly both the manual release and the return went easy and smooth, far better than it has ever been before. The gas filler door shuts more smoothly as well.

It was then a matter of reassembly, ensuring the right amount of cable was between the latch and where it goes inside the wheelhouse (into the trunk).

Removing the solenoid looks almost impossible hence lubricating the one already there.
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I have a lot of questions about the procedure that would best be answered with a phone call. Please let me know a time that you could phone me to discuss them. I'm in florida time and morning is best, is that good for you? Also, do you know the approximate length of the return spring for the door latch? Someone told me about Menard's (none in my state) #88228 spring. That spring is too big ( 13/16 O.D. and 3 1/4 long!) to go in the retainer! 1/4 Diameter fits in, but the length?? Steve 352 666 9916
 
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not my post

its not my post sorry. I just found it for you Maybe someone else can jump in and help
I do see a new assembly is only about 60.00 $ from GM
 
Reply to" How to oil the solenoid for gas door."

its not my post sorry. I just found it for you Maybe someone else can jump in and help
I do see a new assembly is only about 60.00 $ from GM


I knew it wasn't your post because you made a side comment about diconnecting the wiring on the solenoid, but you apparently did yours, and that being known, you could answer some of my questions, couldn't you??
 
sorry

no that also was not me. I have not did one yet. I have my inner fender out on my car . I will look to see how hard it is to take it out and if not too much trouble check to see what I can find
 

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