New Owner

[CNC]

May Indeed be The Power Mirrors ?

Hawkeye makes a potentially valid point. "IF" the mirrors are not 'programmed' to where you want them, and are in their 'default' setting, they then tilt all the way down the moment you start the car. Sometimes will make a 'clicking noise'. Result of default position is usually because at some point the battery was temporarily disconnected. To program, (a) set the seat where you want it. (b) Set the mirrors where you want them, and (c) hold down one of the seat setting memory buttons until you hear two short audible beeps. Wala, both mirrors, and seat position are now programmed.

The wheel rims are easily replaceable and readily available should decide to replace them with stock ones and new tires. My replacement tires (run flats) I got at Discount Tire (it had the original tires with lots of tread, but were just old and cracked, like me). I replaced two of the rims due to curb rash. Bought the two new ones on eBay. Still have the two old ones that really weren't that horrible and could easily be reconditioned. --- Of course, at some 'cost', but not outrageous.

Enjoy your new ride. They draw lots and lots of attention. You will hear, "What is that?". "A Cadillac?"--- "Really?" --- "I didn't know Cadillac made anything like this?" --- "What a beautiful car!" --- Fun stuff! --- Enjoy!

 

[bikemanbrad]

Thank You. I understand about the wheels but just after all the years of owning cars, just worried that maybe the vibration is more serious than the wheels....basically I am want this car so bad but the problems are the vibration which is not in the steering wheel which makes me think it's not a front wheel problem....maybe rear tire or balance.
But could be in car itself ?
Also , need a key fob per the Dealer inspection.
The only other problem I see is the rotors feeling slightly warped but that I know can be be fixed without big cost.
Car looks brand new...Carfax shows no accident and 27,000 miles ....went down to my price of $20,000.
Was never afraid to buy a used car before....have 3 right now that we're purchased further away with no inspection.... actually I never had the last 5-6 inspected and all were great cars ... especially the Eldorados.
Thanks for your help. It's greatly appreciated.
Was trying to buy the car before the place gives up on me and sells it to some one else.
P.S......no need for the V instead of this base ??

 

[bikemanbrad]

Also the car has to be kept outside here in N.Y.
No more garage space and plan to use it regularly for short distances....every time I want to take out a fun car, it takes too long to get to so I take out a bike. This was to be easily accessible and a convertible yet the hardtop for being outside.
No problem ???
Thanks ...off to work...back here tonight and hopefully make a decision.
Always wanted one...first one in my area.

 

[CNC]

Certainly Things To Consider

Also the car has to be kept outside here in N.Y.
No more garage space and plan to use it regularly for short distances....every time I want to take out a fun car, it takes too long to get to so I take out a bike. This was to be easily accessible and a convertible yet the hardtop for being outside.
No problem ???
Thanks ...off to work...back here tonight and hopefully make a decision.
Always wanted one...first one in my area.

Maybe you could make The Seller deal with the vibration issue, by replacing the wheels and tires and doing the brakes as a condition of sale? Or have them discount it another - $2K or whatever (?), and/or you replace them? Assuming (?) the Car Fax is 'clean' and the mileage being as low as it is, I kind of doubt that there is major front end damage. But maybe have it inspected? Typically out of balance tires or a bent rim will cause the steering wheel to shake side to side when you are NOT stepping on the brake. Pulling to one side indicates an 'out of alignment' condition. More severe than normal 'torque steer' which may occur when accelerating. --- "IF" the Steering Wheel Shakes side to side (vibration) when applying the brakes, this is the result of warped brake rotors, and the pads/calipers skipping between high and low spots on the warped rotors, as you indicated it needs. FYI, when replacing brake rotors, 'always do new pads'. --- FYI, this is 'really' LOW mileage on this car.

I do agree that keeping them outside isn't the greatest option in climates like ours. yet can be protected from critters by using DeCon trays inside the cab and engine bay and trunk, plus Fresh Cab bags inside, etc. Just don't forget to stow them before driving the car. Plus getting a good weatherproof car cover if it's not under anything.

Typically low mileage V's go for around $32K. Yes, more H.P., yet in my case both myself and my wife wanted Gold Mist. Gold Mist was never made in a 'V' to my knowledge. FYI, mine had 29K miles (one owner) on it when purchased, and I paid considerably more than this deal, and 'yes', it needed some work. Primarily from the prior owner(a) hitting curbs and speed bumps with the nose and rocker panels, and (b) riding the brakes 24/7 when driving. Bad bad habit, always resting ones left foot on the brake pedal.

My opinion? This is already a really good deal on this car with this mileage. If you can chisel them down some more over the wheel and tire vibration brake issues (?), take a shot. All they can say is no, or meet you somewhere in the middle? --- FYI, most 2004's had an issue with the plastic headlamp covers melting, and also 'some' 2005's.

Best,
Charles

 

[bikemanbrad]

Thanks Charles.
Yes , I know from all my cars in the past about the wheel balance, etc. This is not the front balance because the steering wheel is fine. To me, it's either a tire or rear wheel balance.
The Cadillac dealer that inspected it found only one bad key fob and slight seepage around the oil pan and called it normal...no codes on the computer, everything working including top, a/c, etc.
Due to the vibration, I asked them at additional cost to balance and check the wheels. They said three of the after market chrome 20" wheels were bent. I told the seller forget it but they and then the Caddy dealer told me it's normal and happens all the time. That I've never had experience with.
They agreed at $125 per wheel to pay for one and I paid for two...but the vibration although slight was still there. They agreed upon my suggestion to check the one wheel that wasn't checked... that's what I'm waiting for now.
The original price was 22,000 , I got it for $20,000.
I know as cars I've had that the rotors are slightly warped due to the low use ...that doesn't scare me but the vibration does.
Yet really want the car.
It could be a tire as well....

 

[CNC]

Sounds like you 'Made Up Your Mind' : )

Thanks Charles.
Yes , I know from all my cars in the past about the wheel balance, etc. This is not the front balance because the steering wheel is fine. To me, it's either a tire or rear wheel balance.
The Cadillac dealer that inspected it found only one bad key fob and slight seepage around the oil pan and called it normal...no codes on the computer, everything working including top, a/c, etc.
Due to the vibration, I asked them at additional cost to balance and check the wheels. They said three of the after market chrome 20" wheels were bent. I told the seller forget it but they and then the Caddy dealer told me it's normal and happens all the time. That I've never had experience with.
They agreed at $125 per wheel to pay for one and I paid for two...but the vibration although slight was still there. They agreed upon my suggestion to check the one wheel that wasn't checked... that's what I'm waiting for now.
The original price was 22,000 , I got it for $20,000.
I know as cars I've had that the rotors are slightly warped due to the low use ...that doesn't scare me but the vibration does.
Yet really want the car.
It could be a tire as well....

If you replace the wheels and rims with the stock ones, sounds like that should solve the problem(s). I cannot agree with any statement from the Cadillac Dealer or The Seller, that this is "normal" on XLR's for the wheel rims to "bend". Maybe if someone is a crappy driver and is hitting curbs, hard. --- FYI, "Blue Devil" engine oil stop leak works 'if' the gasket isn't torn and just needs to be re-swelled. Won't harm the engine. The gaskets at this mileage I would doubt are 'torn'. Yet dry out and shrink at this low of mileage and from sitting. Go around and 'snug down' the bolts at the pan, the timing chain cover and on the intake manifold (10mm). The intake manifold bolts on The XLR's are famous for getting loose due to gasket shrinkage because of often limited use, and may result in a vacuum leak. Don't kill the bolts. Just snug until they 'bottom', then ad The Blue Devil and run the engine with normal use until the gaskets re-swell. This may stop the oil leaks. Often used it in The Shop to 'sometimes' save a customer 'money' as opposed to an expensive mechanical tear down. Not always successful, but worth a shot. --- If you jack it up yourself with a low profile jack, make sure you use the Hocky Pucks, and Jack Stands before crawling underneath.

Again, Welcome to XLR Net, and yes, Summer is coming! Enjoy your new ride.<strike></strike>

 

[bikemanbrad]

The dealers only said that these low profile tires and aluminum after market wheels get bent from potholes....my tire place agreed and said they see it every day.
Just spoke to the dealer that I'm buying from and says the fourth wheel was now balanced but same vibration.
Blames it on tires/rims also.
It starts at50 but I didn't go over 50 due to speeding on that road.
Friday, I'm taking it on the highway.
I've experienced in the past where it might be just at a certain speed..may go away over 50...
Also Cadillac told me they are runflat expensive tires but Tire Rack.com says they don't think Toyo made runflats.

 

[ghawk]

Just my $.02...but aftermarket wheels will almost never be as smooth and durable as the OEM variety. If they can, maybe they have a corvette with factory wheels that they can swap on to prove the theory of wheels/tires. Driveline vibrations are pretty rare since the rotating mass is so small compared to wheels.

Gary

 

[bikemanbrad]

Absolutely, I agree but the car has only these 20" aftermarket wheels with low profile tires.
Even worse , I called Toyo Tires today and they do not make tun flats so these aren't.
Obviously, I'd have to buy 20" runflats or 18" original size aftermarket wheels and run flats.

 

[bikemanbrad]

Also , the aftermarket wheels sometimes don't have the exact same opening to fit tight on the hub so tightening lug nuts in staggered order and patiently tightening in increments is important to have wheel perfectly centered and avoid possible vibration.

 

[long Tall Sally]

almost all aftermarket wheels have a larger than normal hub center to fit multiple cars. the xlr hub is 70.3 and you can buy hub centric rings on ebay for like 10$ a set that will center the wheel off the hub and not the studs. Only way to go. even the plastic ones will center the wheel as there is uniform load on them when the lugs are tight.

 

[bikemanbrad]

I know, that's what I think might be causing the slight vibration.... especially if the tire place wasn't careful in tightening the lugs with patience, staggering Wich one you tighten and tighten them uniformly, not just one at a time as they do with the air wrenches.
Also, the Toyo 20" tires are not runflat so not sure what to do....buy 20" runflats and the centric rings or have to buy new 18" wheels and runflats ???

 

[long Tall Sally]

runflats ride like they are made of concrete. Every car I have with them , I just get a spare in case I have a flat locally I can get it brought to me or either get AAA. I also keep a small nail repair kit and compressor that I use in case of a flat. Yeah 90% of the tire shops are going to throw the wheel up. start one lug and tighten it up to draw up the wheel flat and then tighten the rest. if your wobble seems up and down, more of a vibrations then that most likely it , but if its side to side it would most likely be a bent wheel

 

[bikemanbrad]

I'm going to drive it one final time tomorrow being the fourth wheel was balanced.
They say it still has the slight vibration and that to get rid of it, I'll need to eventually buy new tires and/or wheels. Ill take it out on the highway because it vibrated at 50 but I couldn't go above on that road with the traffic.
If it's not bad, I think I'm going to go through with the purchase being it's 27,000 miles, mint condition and $20,000.
I know they are not runflats because Toyo doesn't make any.
So you carry the repair kit, compressor and a jack ?
My friend says you have to remove the wheel to apply a lot of pressure from the top.
Also, if one key fob needs to be replaced as per the Caddy dealer that checked the car , isn't it dangerous driving with only one being it has the push button start.Of all the many cars I've owned , none of them had this keyless system.
If you can get back to me before I go one last time Saturday morning, I would very greatly appreciate it.
Was never afraid to buy a car before this one... due to carrying no spare tire, the aftermarket wheels / tires and all the negative stuff I read on here and elsewhere.
Really love the car though and always wanted one but this is the first and only low mileage one close enough.
Thank You again for your help and patience.
Brad

 

[bikemanbrad]

P.S.
If I buy, I'll also try to find and buy the hub centric rings...I still think that will help... can't have the wheel on perfect with a larger hub opening in the wheel in my opinion.
Especially the way the tire place throws it on and tightens.

 

[ghawk]

They key fob issue is really a non issue, if you don't want to pay the dealer price, just order one ($102 full retail at the dealer) and programming instructions are actually included in the owners manual. I programmed two new ones to mine when I bought it.

The run flat issue for me is another non issue, been lucky and haven't had a flat for years and years but have towing service all the same. Carry a compressor if you want, but a jack is useless unless you have another to swap on. My wifes CTS doesn't have a spare either, but a GM air compressor kit in the trunk that has never been used for the last 7 years. Sign up with AAA and forget it.

I think you are at full retail for a base version at 20k with those miles. If I were you, I would locate some XLR or Corvette OEM wheels and tires (should be able to find some pretty cheap on Craigslist or ebay) and then go out and drive it like ya stole it on the aftermarket rims until the tires are toast. (should take about 30 minutes if you try )

Most of all...This is a car you buy with your heart...not your head. Quit trying to figure out if it is logical or the best solution or if its perfect or a POS or whatever...If it makes you feel good sitting in it, driving it or looking at it and you got the means...strap a pair on and jump in the deep end with the rest of us idiots - the water is fine (a bit deep in parts and I think somebody peed in the pool, but its fine)

Gary

 

[bikemanbrad]

Thanks Gary.
Did you mean the price is high ?
Order the fob from the Caddy dealer ?
I do have excellent towing service through my Gold Wing club.

 

[ghawk]

What I am saying is that NADA lists clean retail at $20,450 and KBB list private party values from $16,363 to $19,730 with your mileage and condition, so IMO, you are at full retail.

I ordered the FOB at the Caddy dealer, you can get them much cheaper if you get the part number and order them online at someplace like GMpartsdirect. You can also get them from Amazon somewhere in the $70 range and it takes just a few minutes to program.

Good luck my friend.

Gary

 

[bikemanbrad]

Thanks Gary.
From the prices I saw on eBay, I thought this was low though.
If a fob fails , you can't start or get in the car.
I saw two keys attached to the one gob ?
What does the key going in the rear bumper do ?
Brad

 

[ghawk]

Asking prices and recorded transaction prices are sometimes really different. What you see on ebay are asking prices, bottom line is the cars are worth what someone is willing to pay. When I was looking for ours, the asking prices on XLR-V's were anywhere from 29k to 50k with the average around 35k. I paid 24, spent 300 on a great detail, 200 on key fobs and 500 on new OEM drivers seat covers. Spent a couple hours and a bottle of adhesive to repair the dash leather that had come loose. All in at 25k. But that is in direct contrast to the Barrett Jackson auction last week where a 2007 XLR-V hammered at $67k. Was that car worth it? to the person who bought it, absolutely. Would I consider paying that much? Absolutely not.

I would recommend that you do a google search for the 2005 owners manual...they are all online. It can explain the different operations for the keys, the FOB's and will answer tons of questions.

Gary