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OBD codes / down load question

lear60man

Member
Joined
May 7, 2015
Messages
6
Location
California
Howdy folks! So my retired mom wants a XLR after her longtime Caddy went to heaven, im actually kinda of proud. We are a car-centric type of family and she asked me to go check one out that is local to me to determine weather to buy or keep looking. The car in question is a 2004 with sub 30k miles for low $20k's.

Couple of ???'s:

I understand that It is desirable to have a XLR trained tech do the PPI. Can the tech pull stored codes or can a savvy dealer wipe undesirable error codes? On some cars the ECU stores codes weather they are cleared or not. This is valuable information in my book as it will show a trend.

From looking through this site I gather that I need to check the following:

-Roof lifting electronics in the trunk under the carpet panel on the drivers side. Check for water intrusion / damage etc. Check Hyd fluid level etc.
-The Nortstar power plant might have an oil drip here or there. Its a car, some oil residue is not an national emergency.
-Check all interior functions including the heated/ cooled seats. Check all directions for movement. Check all switches for proper function.
-Insure that the top goes up and down without incident multiple times (with the engine running to save the battery). I guess that the top can be a weak link?
-The first year of production can sometimes carry a stigma. Sometimes the maker gets it right the first time, sometimes not. Any inherent issues with the 2004 MY?

Other than previous body work or unusual sounds from the drive train, Im really relying on what the computer says to the general condition of the motor /tranny. Is my approach flawed, or can I get a good snap shot of the cars health from the OBD codes?

Done with the questions. I gotta give my mom credit, she peaked my curiosity with this car. Ive seen them on the road and always thought, 'Good looking car, but not for me.' After discovering how closely related it was to the Corvette, I have nothing but respect and will be a little sad when she comes to collect.

Some model specific sites have a "Before you buy checklist". If I missed it here, my apologies.

Anyway, first post and welcome the responses.
 
You seem to have done your homework. I would also add the early models had radiator and headlight problems. I can't tell you how to tell if the radiator has been updated, maybe search can? The headlights get crazed (I think turning yellowish and small crack/lines in the lens. They are very expensive too. I don't know about the codes, but I would guess once erased they are gone. You can get a history report of the car from the dealer though and it would report what the car was brought to the shop for.
 
Good luck with your purchase!

Have your local GM dealership run the VIN and print out the Service History. Don't waste your time or money with a CARFAX.

The updated radiator is a "V" model along with the Power Steering Reservoir. The old reservoir is rectangular (from the top view) and the updated one is round. If either were replaced, that will show up in the Service History.

Stored codes can be erased (cleared.) A complete dealer's diagnostic scan (unless you know someone with a Tech 2 who can perform one) takes less than five minutes and any faults will show up.

The amber DRL bezels in the headlights that were prone to crazing were updated with clear bezels in later years. The headlights required pigtail harnesses to adapt to the old harnesses.


Download the 2004 Owners Manual (from this site) and get familiar with each function. Make a check list using it as a reference and test EVERY single function. If the heated/cooled seats aren't working properly, move the seat forward and tip the rear seatback forward to examine the ducts on the bottom of the seat for rips or just being disconnected.

Cycle the top five times (with the engine running.) Listen for the two chimes at the end of each cycle to indicate the cycle was completed successfully.

Don't wear polarized sunglasses when inspecting the HUD, or it will appear dim (or not at all.)

Those are the biggies. Others may add anything I forgot.

CC :wave:
 
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Thanks guys. Im going to show up unannounced because I want to see a cold start AND a hot start. Then do a drive, throw it up on a rack and pull codes. I want to pull codes last after a little flogging when the car is nice and warm.

Thanks for the heads up on the power steering res. and updated radiator. Im guessing neither was a recall.......so if they have been updated great, if not inspect closer.

Two chimes at the end of the power top cycle, good info.

RE the yellowing and crazing on the headlights.....Im gonna chalk that to age and UV damage. I bought a Mequires headlight restoration kit.......worth every penny.
 
RE the yellowing and crazing on the headlights.....Im gonna chalk that to age and UV damage. I bought a Mequires headlight restoration kit.......worth every penny.

The crazing other posters are talking about is on the yellow DRL lens inside the headlamp cover. When you see the car in person, the headlamp is on the bottom, the separate DRL/turn signal lens above it, & that one is the problem. Unfortunately the Meguiars won't help you with that - the only known fix is replacing the headlamps & assembly.
 
The crazing (which has been covered extensively on this site) is caused by the bezel material itself when heated by the adjacent bulb. The bezel was replaced as the problems were noted by GM.

Neither the radiator or power steering reservoirs were recall items. The upgraded radiators (like the bezels) and reservoirs were installed with upgraded assemblies when the failure rates were noted.

CC
 
Gotcha, thank you for the clarification on the crazing. Ill download the owners manual when I get home from this trip (slow internet in the hotel). If I understand correctly, swapping out the bezel saves the housing? I remember reading something about it here and its a fairly simple swap with changing the connectors as well. If it has not been done, Ill probably pick up the parts and fix it before Mom comes down to drive it home. I really hope this car checks out, she has her hopes up and I would hate to be the messenger of bad tidings.
 
The bezel is encased in the sealed headlight. You have to replace the entire headlight assembly which retails at $1100 ea. Beware of eBay, most of those that I've seen have this crazing, too. I have it on mine and have lived with it as there are other things I'd rather do to the car first. Here is a picture for your reference.
6693644d42ea22f6a11125a13ea55540.jpg

. Be sure to inspect the compartment in the rear drivers side trunk where the folding top pump and controls are located. You have to lift up the floor carpet and remove a small cover. Look for signs of water as the 2004 was known for leaky trunks and this is a low point where water would collect. Mine is an '04 and the trunk has been dry so far, but I don't drive in the rain much, either. Good luck with the purchase.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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Update:

I hate dealers. hahaha. "Passed full inspection" my tail pipe, more on that in a minute. After getting the runaround for the last 2 weeks, I finally got to put eyes on the car and give her a good flogging. I took her up to 'highway speed' no vibration, shimmy unusual noises etc. Hard braking was uneventful and straight. Top went up and down as advertised many times but I only got one chime at the completion of the transition. CCClarke says in his above post I should hear two chimes. The heated seats got warm but when I put it on 'hi cool' I was expecting a noticeable difference. I didnt notice any airflow coming from the perforated leather, normal? A couple of dings on the center console metallic finish and a chip here and there.

Car is at a Cadillac dealership 'as is where is'. Fine. Now back to the mechanical inspection. Everything is marked off with 'OK'. I had them put it up on the rack and there was at least two fresh oil leaks near the front of the car. The front cross member was coated as well as the oil pan. The good news is that the oil is a nice blond honey color! I questioned the sales manager about the lack of inspection and his response was, "My technician did the inspection while the car was cold not hot." My reply, "Give the guy a raise, but dont let him work on your personal car." So in short, the inspection isnt worth the paper its printed on.

Headlights are crystal clear and one is new.

At this point we are having a XLR tech identify the source and severity of the leaks to help us determine buy or bye bye. Its a used car and I get that, nothing is perfect. Im just trying to determine any fatal flaws or an imminent engine removal in the near future. When I buy a used car I keep a certain amount in reserve. I told mom to have $3k in reserve just in case. Its gonna be her going to church care and they have others to drive on a daily basis, so it wont leave them stranded. Funny, when I mentioned the leaks she said, "Yup its a caddy with a Northstar.....We'll park it where the other one leaked on the driveway."

So any more info would be greatly appreciated. Depending what the tech says later today, we will make the decision.

So fingers crossed
 
Funny, when I mentioned the leaks she said, "Yup its a caddy with a Northstar.....We'll park it where the other one leaked on the driveway.".

I think your mom knows her stuff!
 
I only get one chime at the end of the top cycle on my 2004, so that may be normal.v:cool:
 
I only get one chime at the end of the top cycle on my 2004, so that may be normal.v:cool:

Ok, deal is done. Its headed to Utah on a carrier next week. $25k for a 17,000mile 2004. I had the tech put dye in it to trace the leaks. It was leaking from the upper cam discs things that you can see when you take off the silver engine cover. Our mechanic back in UT said its not a biggie and from reading here I agreed. No other problems noted.

So If you see a raven black XLR streaking down the highway in Utah with a blue hair lady.....just move over a lane. Remember her last Caddy went to heaven hahaha.

Thanks guys for the help.
 
OBD codes

Howdy folks! So my retired mom wants a XLR after her longtime Caddy went to heaven, im actually kinda of proud. We are a car-centric type of family and she asked me to go check one out that is local to me to determine weather to buy or keep looking. The car in question is a 2004 with sub 30k miles for low $20k's.

Couple of ???'s:

I understand that It is desirable to have a XLR trained tech do the PPI. Can the tech pull stored codes or can a savvy dealer wipe undesirable error codes? On some cars the ECU stores codes weather they are cleared or not. This is valuable information in my book as it will show a trend.

From looking through this site I gather that I need to check the following:

-Roof lifting electronics in the trunk under the carpet panel on the drivers side. Check for water intrusion / damage etc. Check Hyd fluid level etc.
-The Nortstar power plant might have an oil drip here or there. Its a car, some oil residue is not an national emergency.
-Check all interior functions including the heated/ cooled seats. Check all directions for movement. Check all switches for proper function.
-Insure that the top goes up and down without incident multiple times (with the engine running to save the battery). I guess that the top can be a weak link?
-The first year of production can sometimes carry a stigma. Sometimes the maker gets it right the first time, sometimes not. Any inherent issues with the 2004 MY?

Other than previous body work or unusual sounds from the drive train, Im really relying on what the computer says to the general condition of the motor /tranny. Is my approach flawed, or can I get a good snap shot of the cars health from the OBD codes?

Done with the questions. I gotta give my mom credit, she peaked my curiosity with this car. Ive seen them on the road and always thought, 'Good looking car, but not for me.' After discovering how closely related it was to the Corvette, I have nothing but respect and will be a little sad when she comes to collect.

Some model specific sites have a "Before you buy checklist". If I missed it here, my apologies.

Anyway, first post and welcome the responses.

I have read your post with interest & suggest your retired mother look else where for a vehicle that gives less problems. I'm retired & have been a Caddy owner all my life. I wish I had done more research on these cars. All the problems you mentioned plus more are true. Wish you was in my area because I would sell you a 2004 cheap. There is one GM dealer that had Jerry Lewes 2006 & ended up taking to auction to move it. There is another dealer here that bought one from auction & can't move it. They may sell good in some areas but not here. Advise, review this forum a lot before making your purchase. Oh by the way, you would think Caddy could solve the oil leak problem as long as the Northstar has been out there. Just food for thought.

David J.

.
 
Why would you even post this after just reading he has bought it?

Seriously, I'll give you $3k for yours since you think it's worthless..

I have read your post with interest & suggest your retired mother look else where for a vehicle that gives less problems. I'm retired & have been a Caddy owner all my life. I wish I had done more research on these cars. All the problems you mentioned plus more are true. Wish you was in my area because I would sell you a 2004 cheap. There is one GM dealer that had Jerry Lewes 2006 & ended up taking to auction to move it. There is another dealer here that bought one from auction & can't move it. They may sell good in some areas but not here. Advise, review this forum a lot before making your purchase. Oh by the way, you would think Caddy could solve the oil leak problem as long as the Northstar has been out there. Just food for thought.

David J.

.
 
Why would you even post this after just reading he has bought it?

Seriously, I'll give you $3k for yours since you think it's worthless..


No hard feelings, the reply actually gave me a chuckle.

Growing up broke, I learned how to turn wrenches from my dad so it's in good hands now. Without his 'training' I couldn't own a 2005 Range Rover, 1990 Testarossa ( just did the clutch in October) , A restored Mercedes 190 2.3 16v and my wife's Jaguar XJ8. Owing an expensive car doesn't have to be costly as long as there is a good forum to draw knowledge from......and you can turn a wrench:). I love working on my little fleet and keeping them in tip top shape. This will be dads responsibility. She has always wanted a 2 seat convertible but kids, life etc always got in the way. I think this is the first time she got the exact car she wanted without having to compromise (suv to haul kids/rocks etc.)

Anyway, I might pop in now and again to draw knowledge and hopefully contribute as well.
 
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ODB

Why would you even post this after just reading he has bought it?

Seriously, I'll give you $3k for yours since you think it's worthless..

Don't take my quote personal. I think all opinions are welcome on this forum. Wish this form was up when I bought mine.

David J
 

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