Stabilatrac

[MarkSki]

Is there a sensor in each wheel for this system? It appears when I hit a bad pothole I get the service message. I believe this takes place when the right rear tire hits the hole but its hard to tell. If I shut the car off then restart it the error message goes away.

The sensor at the end of the steering colum was replace a month or two ago.

The dealer wants to keep the car for a while but I dont want a mess of diag. charges at $100+ an hour!!

 

[Stella]

Theirs only your tire pressure sensor on the rim. Now the mag-ride does have a actuator connected to each lower control arms that controls each shock absorber.
I remember someone posting of a issue with their steering column connections to the steering wheel that caused the stabilitrac message? Keep us updated.

 

[ccclarke]

Stabilitrac has two sensors: a steering wheel position sensor and a yaw sensor. If the car rotates to the right (yaw) and the steering wheel is at the twelve o'clock position, a signal is sent to the Electronic Brake Control System and the brakes will be applied to compensate and attempt to line the car up.

A documented fault in the connector in the steering wheel column exists which can intermittently engage stabilitrac.

CC

 

[xlrlist01]

Stabilitrac has two sensors: a steering wheel position sensor and a yaw sensor. If the car rotates to the right (yaw) and the steering wheel is at the twelve o'clock position, a signal is sent to the Electronic Brake Control System and the brakes will be applied to compensate and attempt to line the car up.

A documented fault in the connector in the steering wheel column exists which can intermittently engage stabilitrac.

CC

Stabilitrac also uses the ABS system, ie it piggybacks off the ABS wheel speed sensor counts in each wheel. High end sat navs use the ABS wheel rotation counts too, it is much more reliable than the GPS signal at any instant. Hence the calibration that takes place to match wheel diameter in the sat nav. It is sensitive to the difference between a new and an old tire, though it will automatically recalibrate (using gps position) over time. Some vehicles use the ABS counts to detect low tire pressures too, the assumption being that one will be different from the others. If they are all out (in the same way), this method doesn't work.

 

[MarkSki]

Stabilitrac has two sensors: a steering wheel position sensor and a yaw sensor. If the car rotates to the right (yaw) and the steering wheel is at the twelve o'clock position, a signal is sent to the Electronic Brake Control System and the brakes will be applied to compensate and attempt to line the car up.

A documented fault in the connector in the steering wheel column exists which can intermittently engage stabilitrac.

CC

I've had the steering wheel column sensor replaced a couple of months ago under an after market contract via my credit union when I bought the car. It took the dealer 8 hoirs to replace it.

xlrlist01 says the s.track piggy backs the signal with the abs sensor in each wheel. I've noticed that when a right turn is made and you hit a bump, the service stilabiltrack message will pop up and if you shut the car off then restart it, itappers this clears the computer or thecomputer has checked everything and does not find a fault.

I thought the signal was coming from the wheels and piggy backing off of the abs does make sense from what I have moticed.

As an example, I hita pothole with both right front and rear wheels and up pops the service message. My wife madhe e a slow right turn and went over some rail road tracks and up pops the message.
I made a rithr turn then went stright for at least 1/4 of a mile and up pops the message. he

I'm going to remove, clean, and replace both abs sensors on the right side and see if that does anything.

Where is the yaw sensor located, in the center of the car? Can I access it without taking the car apart?

I guess I'll continual to sht down and restart to clear the computer and take it to the dealer when that no longer works
and the message remains on the DIC.

Sorry for the misspells, Im on an iPad

 

[ccclarke]

You are correct; the yaw sensor is on the centerline of the vehicle-inside the center stack.

To access it, you need to remove the Instrument Panel Trim Plate, and the HVAC control module. The sensor is just below it, secured with two fasteners. They should be torqued to 62 in/lbs.

1. Turn the Ignition switch to the OFF position. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the Console Trim (Shifter) Plate: Remove the shifter knob, by pulling the silver trim ring down and remove the T-15 Torx fastener. Open the cup holder door. With a plastic trim removal tool, pry up the rear of the plate, then move to the front. Disconnect the electrical connector.
3. Remove the IP Trim Plate: Pull the IP Trim Plate at the top and pull rearward. Disconnect the electrical connector for the Hazard Light switch.
4. Remove the HVAC Module: Remove the four screws securing the HVAC module to the IP Trim Plate. When replacing the fasteners, torque to 14 in/lbs.
5. Remove/Replace the Yaw Sensor.
6. Put it all back together: Reverse the installation sequence.

Hope this helps.

CC

 

[xlrlist01]

I've had the steering wheel column sensor replaced a couple of months ago under an after market contract via my credit union when I bought the car. It took the dealer 8 hoirs to replace it.

xlrlist01 says the s.track piggy backs the signal with the abs sensor in each wheel. I've noticed that when a right turn is made and you hit a bump, the service stilabiltrack message will pop up and if you shut the car off then restart it, itappers this clears the computer or thecomputer has checked everything and does not find a fault.

I thought the signal was coming from the wheels and piggy backing off of the abs does make sense from what I have moticed.

As an example, I hita pothole with both right front and rear wheels and up pops the service message. My wife madhe e a slow right turn and went over some rail road tracks and up pops the message.
I made a rithr turn then went stright for at least 1/4 of a mile and up pops the message. he

I'm going to remove, clean, and replace both abs sensors on the right side and see if that does anything.

Where is the yaw sensor located, in the center of the car? Can I access it without taking the car apart?

I guess I'll continual to sht down and restart to clear the computer and take it to the dealer when that no longer works
and the message remains on the DIC.

Sorry for the misspells, Im on an iPad

For what it is worth, I would not put the ABS signal at the top of my list for this problem. It would almost certainly flag an ABS problem, which is a higher priority than a Stabiltrac problem. I was mentioning that there is use of the ABS sensor on each wheel in Stabiltrac, however, it isn't a different physical circuit, it is only the information that is shared.

I would look closely at the security of all the components that are used by the Stabiltrac system. What fault codes are being recorded? You need a Tech-2 scan.

Also, IIRC, there are two steering column points of interest, I forget exactly what they are. Maybe one is the connector position assurance, but I have an idea that there is a second, similar fix and depending when your XLR was manufactured, either one, or both could be needing fixing. My memory is a bit vague on this one.

One note when removing the little cover on the gear shifter - it is easy to scratch. If you squeeze it front and rear, the little 'clips' on the two sides expand off a tad allowing it to drop down. Easier to do than to describe.

 

[MarkSki]

Here's an update to my problem: Poor connections, grounds, an aftermarket wiring. System had multiple systems codes stored, low voltage, loss of communications. All codes were cleared, road test, service stabilitgrac/traction messages came on. System esc u2100 current, loss of hi speed communication, diagnosis states code cannot be read as current. Contacted TAC, spoke was JH. Reviewed database & past cases, all had multiple other codes stored. Removed remnants of aftermarket device wiring, restore to factory. CK for possible intrusion at power supply points for modulels, none found. Ck & verify proper tground connections at G102, G104, G105, G106, G401, G402. Clear all codes. Multiple rd tests & rd tested by shop forman multiple times, no fail lights, messages or codes reset.


Maybe this will help someone else in the future. I didn't add anything to the car and what ever it was had been removed before I purchased the car but a connection wire running from the power box under the hood to inside of the car where the main fuses are located.

On the way home my wife was driving HER XLR and she stopped to fill up the gas tank. We got home just fine. The next day she ran some errands and on the way home she got a gas cap error message. The attendant didn't tighten the cap good enough.

She did and reset the DIC message and shut down. I took the car to work the next night and as soon as I started up CEL on. Used an OBD II scanner and got evap leak (large). I reset the code and all is well!!

 

[xlrlist01]

Here's an update to my problem: Poor connections, grounds, an aftermarket wiring. System had multiple systems codes stored, low voltage, loss of communications. All codes were cleared, road test, service stabilitgrac/traction messages came on. System esc u2100 current, loss of hi speed communication, diagnosis states code cannot be read as current. Contacted TAC, spoke was JH. Reviewed database & past cases, all had multiple other codes stored. Removed remnants of aftermarket device wiring, restore to factory. CK for possible intrusion at power supply points for modulels, none found. Ck & verify proper tground connections at G102, G104, G105, G106, G401, G402. Clear all codes. Multiple rd tests & rd tested by shop forman multiple times, no fail lights, messages or codes reset.


Maybe this will help someone else in the future. I didn't add anything to the car and what ever it was had been removed before I purchased the car but a connection wire running from the power box under the hood to inside of the car where the main fuses are located.

On the way home my wife was driving HER XLR and she stopped to fill up the gas tank. We got home just fine. The next day she ran some errands and on the way home she got a gas cap error message. The attendant didn't tighten the cap good enough.

She did and reset the DIC message and shut down. I took the car to work the next night and as soon as I started up CEL on. Used an OBD II scanner and got evap leak (large). I reset the code and all is well!!

Thanks for the update, very encouraging.

Regarding that pesky gas cap loose message, fixing the CEL with a Tech-2 is much quicker than waiting for the required conditions to arise twice without setting the fault in order to clear down the code automatically. Depending on how/where you drive, those conditions can take hundreds of miles to achieve.

 

[MarkSki]

Thanks for the update, very encouraging.

Regarding that pesky gas cap loose message, fixing the CEL with a Tech-2 is much quicker than waiting for the required conditions to arise twice without setting the fault in order to clear down the code automatically. Depending on how/where you drive, those conditions can take hundreds of miles to achieve.

Thanks for the info on how long it would take for the rest to take place on its own. I would like a Tech-2 but not right now, boating season is almost here so I have to get ready to toss my money into that spot in the ocean!