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Which is the best year XLR???

bugsy

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I've been looking at XLR ads for months now....I want to keep the price below 30K,somewhere between 25 and 30....Which is the most trouble free year 04-06????Is it worth a lot more to get a 07?
Assume the same mileage and no accidents and staying with one from no snow states,which would you guys say is the best year to buy????
 
So many factors come into play. My recommendation is in purchasing a 06 V model. You should be able to find a few around $35K. We have a member on this board selling a 06 V with 31K miles for $32K. It may still be available. His onlne name is Cadirat. He posted the car for sale on June 3rd. You won't be disappointed with the V model. Of course, I'm somewhat biased, I have one.
 
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WHICH YEAR HAD THE LEAST PROBLEMS OVERALL 04-07

I'LL CHECK HIM OUT....WHAT I'M ASKING IS WHICH YEAR HAS THE LEAST PROBLEMS..04-07...I RECENTLY HEARD THAT ALOT OF 04'S HAD ROOF UP AND DOWN ISSUES AND 06'S HAD OIL LEAKS....
 
I'LL CHECK HIM OUT....WHAT I'M ASKING IS WHICH YEAR HAS THE LEAST PROBLEMS..04-07...I RECENTLY HEARD THAT ALOT OF 04'S HAD ROOF UP AND DOWN ISSUES AND 06'S HAD OIL LEAKS....

There were upgrades made in the '06 model years. I would recommend staying '06 or later. Other than that there are no significant reliability trends between years.
 
I've been looking at XLR ads for months now....I want to keep the price below 30K,somewhere between 25 and 30....Which is the most trouble free year 04-06????Is it worth a lot more to get a 07?
Assume the same mileage and no accidents and staying with one from no snow states,which would you guys say is the best year to buy????

As for the ones in a snow state I wouldn't pass them up. People that respect their car and live in the colder climates DON'T drive their cars as much so theirs less mileage. I've seen ALOT of cars here in Illinois,Michigan,Wisconsin with under 5k and their early years. When they sit in the garage for 4-5 months its not eating them up to drive because their use to it sitting anyways.
I would be more worried about coastal living. The salt is in the air so it infiltrates everything int.,ext.electrical connections,chips on paint,everything! No one ever thinks of that.
The car itself hasn't changed much in the five years of production.
06 started the V version
They say the headlight crazing was only early years,but I've read of 08's doing the same thing.
Mines a 04 no crazing and looks brand new,but I had the update done to the harness.
No specific year of leaking. My opinion it's when it was built mon. morning,fri. Afternoon good chance she'll leak.
I believe they changed the trans in 06 or 07. Nothing wrong with the old design I think it's a six speed?
They also changed the front grill/fascia on the 09,along with the rear bumper,exhaust tips,and kept the cowl hood on all models.
They might have changed some other stuff and I'm sure another member will chime in soon but their really arn't any bad years. All the lemons are probably gone. Any issues will have probably been taken care of by this time. Hopefully.
Oh I did hear the 04's were the fastest,and built with the most care!:dunno:
 
Best year for XLR

The best year is the one you OWN!
 
I'd go for an '06-'07 -- think that's the "sweet spot" for XLR's, as the early problems were ironed out by then. Once you get to '08-'09, GM was in deep financial trouble & I think they started cutting corners, at least in my experience with other Caddy models (not XLR's) made in '04/'05 vs. '08.

That said, I haven't seen later model owners on here noting a lot of problems. And I'm biased because we have '06-'07 models.

Any year can leak oil, that's what Northstar engines (which they all have) sometimes do. Typically it's more a nuisance/mess issue than something where you need to watch the oil & keep adding a lot. The engines will go 100k+ miles pretty easily, and there are a couple of members on here with 180k & 250k miles.

By the way, adaptive forward lighting started being used in '06, & '06 V's + all models from '07 on got a 6 speed auto trans instead of 5. Those are about the biggest new features I can think of at the moment for the different years.

Good luck & I hope you find a good one - owning & driving a XLR has been one of the best things I've ever gotten to do.
 
Buying XLR

I own and maintain vintage 'Vettes so am not concerned with a vehicle that is out of production. However, I want to confirm that I have a good understanding of what is and is not available for XLRs.

  1. NAV updates do not appear to be available past 2009!?
  2. Tires are run flats and what should I look for as to them
  3. Batteries should be OEM or !?
  4. Will do a total check-out of vehicle (am an NCRS member) but not sure how to tell about "lurking" problems.....would it be worth having a Cadillac dealer perform a runthrough of vehicle
  5. CARFAX is not always current or reliable as to what was and was not reported.....looked at threads about pros/cons of low mile vehicles and kinda have a feel for getting a 2008-09 XLR not V model.....comments!?
  6. Is it worth getting an extended warranty given all the electronics on vehicle (magnetic suspension, headlights, etc.).....if so, which one should I look to get

Thanks,
icon6.gif
 
Check the cubbies in the trunk at the back left and right under the carpet for any sign of water. That will tell you if the trunk leaks, and if it did the pump and electronics in the drivers side one are VERY expensive to fix.

It sounds like some 04 parts, and all year parts may be hard to come by now. The good news is 09 was the last production year, so GM is more likely to have new parts made in China (like they have the trunk's third brake light). Hopefully they won't stop doing this. It would be a shame for Cadillac to get a bad rep as it try's to re-image itself by not having spare parts for a former halo car. But you never know.
 
I own and maintain vintage 'Vettes so am not concerned with a vehicle that is out of production. However, I want to confirm that I have a good understanding of what is and is not available for XLRs.

  1. NAV updates do not appear to be available past 2009!?
  2. Tires are run flats and what should I look for as to them
  3. Batteries should be OEM or !?
  4. Will do a total check-out of vehicle (am an NCRS member) but not sure how to tell about "lurking" problems.....would it be worth having a Cadillac dealer perform a runthrough of vehicle
  5. CARFAX is not always current or reliable as to what was and was not reported.....looked at threads about pros/cons of low mile vehicles and kinda have a feel for getting a 2008-09 XLR not V model.....comments!?
  6. Is it worth getting an extended warranty given all the electronics on vehicle (magnetic suspension, headlights, etc.).....if so, which one should I look to get

Thanks,
icon6.gif

My thoughts:

1. True. You're probably familiar with the Denso nav as it was also in same generation of Vettes - Bowling Green folks described it as just an "entertainment system." Better off using a phone etc.
2. Not sure on your question - Bridgestone now has Driveguard run flats which will fit the base. Another good option in non-run flat is Michelin Pilot Supersport. Whether you find the ride with run flats is better or worse depends on what you're used to, once my daily driver switched from a STS to a CTS Coupe, run flats felt just fine on the XLR ...
3. I vote NO on OEM, try Optima yellow top (preferable) or red top for the years you're looking at. Some use Odyssey but you have to do some mods to get it to fit right for the years you're considering.
4. There are too many ways to hide problems on CarFax. See if you can get the service records. Repeat problems, particularly electrical = run away quickly. Early serious problems that don't reappear, don't worry about. For example, my base had the diff fluid replaced 3 times in the first 9 mos. after it was bought by the original owner. Nothing more showed up on service records & I've had no problems with it.
5. See above in this thread on years.
6. YES! It's a roll of the dice because the warranty will likely cost $2-3k, BUT a lot of repairs run that much. Got one on my base & it has more than paid for itself for some oil leak repairs (warranty co. lost that bet). Good luck on magnetic shocks not being deemed "wear & tear" & not covered. If you are with USAA, they have a good warranty available. We got Zurich for the XLR-V (USAA won't cover V's), & are probably going to give it a first try soon. There are quite a few threads on here for other options, some of which are available based on if/where you get financing. Our dealer service writer also recommended Universal & Easy Care, and emphasized to be sure to get seal & gasket coverage on whatever we bought, as that is important on the Northstar. You might want to check with whoever you might get to work on the car to see who they recommend - a good dealer relationship with the warranty co. can make all the difference in creating coverage.

Good luck & welcome to the "dark side" (from Vettes, for some).
 
these cars wear batteries fast unless they are on a tender or daily driver. most are not daily drivers.
before purchase can do a load test see if the batt is good, otherwise maybe negotiate a bit for a new one.
i bought my xlr, battery was near death. replaced with an odyssey within months for peace of mind.
i also use a maintainer so my new battery stays new.
oem battery is small CCA and reserve capacity for a car with so much electronics and phantom parasitic drains,
at least the odyssey ups the CCA significantly and is pretty easy to install. 850 vs 600 CCA.
 
i would get under the car, see if you can get it up on a lift.
look at Magnetic shocks, they are expensive to replace.
look at front skid bar and valance, often the skid bar is cracked, to replace requires front end disassembly as this rack holds the radaitor etc.
valance is easier to replace, but will run 200 in parts.
front lower grill is not cracked, on the base models it is black plastic, have to remove bumper to replace it.
look for oil leaks and antifreeze leaks, northstars can leak oil from several locations, mostly nuisance type of stuff, but if its oily wet under there it would need to be repaired. early years had radiator leaks , were replaced with upgraded rads, they used the rad from the V.
look for parts that are replaced, indicating accidents or wear and tear.
most of the plastic/rubber trim around the trunk area and windows is expensive to replace, make sure its not torn or cracked.
the black plastic edges above the windows tend to fade badly, also expensive to replace, inspect and see if you can live with it or refresh it with scotchbrite pad and restoration protectant.
inside look for bad dents dings in the dimpled metallic trim. this trim will dent very easily, again expensive to replace.
make sure if its a newer model adaptive headlights are moving, older models dont have this feature. older models have issues with plastic melting inside the headlights from the daytime running light.
top function is vital, make sure when you check it out, cycle the top a few times, always with car running, to save the battery. check the top up, fitment around rear triangle windows. and with top down make sure top is fully latched in the down position inside the trunk. it should not bounce at teh front edge or rear edge when stowed in the trunk. if it does it will ding the roof on the bolts sticking from underside of the trunk.
ask caddy dealer for service history of that VIN, any dealer will do it for you.
make sure shifter will engage the tiptronic mode, and shift both up and down.
check trunk compartments real left and right, especially the left, look if theres any signs of water, and if the modules and hydraulic pump in there have been worked on.
get two key fobs verify both work. seat controls move in every direction, steering wheel moves every direction.
radar controlled cruise control should be working, HUD display working.
general wear and tear to the interior, most of it is replaceable, but expensive.
 
Thanks....

Lots of great points LEXTOY and XLRATING....as noted probably looking to get 2008-09 base with maybe <20K miles. Probably will go with warranty thru USAA....member there!

Non-OEM battery makes sense.....in some cars the OEM is virtually ONLY battery offered that will fit....

Taking the VIN to a local dealer for service records was in my plans, as was taking the vehicle to a dealer to have them check for "lurking" issues....especially around shocks and rubber items.....and non-factory body/frame items indicating prior accident. If tires are new or nearly so, will stick with them until later replacing with Michelin Pilot or equiv.

Sounds like I will dodge a lot of earlier year problems going with latest models...will not be a driver but also not a trailer queen....purpose is to have a sporty later year convert that my wife feels comfortable driving with luxury vs. my '63 or '74 Vette converts.....seats, AC, etc.....smile

Will dig a bit more then get ready to seriously find the exact car.....thanks again for inputs and tips....I know what to look for in 'Vettes especially older ones, and can repair almost anything myself on them....but an XLR (or later 'Vette).....that is a different league....love the distinction of owning a car everyone does not have.....smile....:thumbsup
 
cosmetically they are all very similar except
2009 has the side chrome gills. and updated front /rear skirt and fog light trim.
the V models have the sculpted hood all years. all 2009 models, base and V, have the sculpted hood.
wheel designs vary, base has 18 , V has 19.
i actually prefer the non sculpted hood, seems to flow better with the design of the car...
 
Buying XLR

I have become more receptive to getting a low mile V vs. Base/Platinum since I will get an after market warranty anyway....not much of a price difference for same color/miles when I look over listings. I can't work on the base any easier than the V in reality and the V seems to be equal as to issues....any observations appreciated. I am having a simple, single bypass surgery being done next Tues but after that planning on really bearing down on a purchase.....I am 71 but NO other issues.....had tonsils out as a child....that is IT....look at myself as a vintage car with everything working even though a little old....but never abused.....LOL
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I have become more receptive to getting a low mile V vs. Base/Platinum since I will get an after market warranty anyway....not much of a price difference for same color/miles when I look over listings. I can't work on the base any easier than the V in reality and the V seems to be equal as to issues....any observations appreciated. I am having a simple, single bypass surgery being done next Tues but after that planning on really bearing down on a purchase.....I am 71 but NO other issues.....had tonsils out as a child....that is IT....look at myself as a vintage car with everything working even though a little old....but never abused.....LOL
icon12.gif

Just as a heads up, if you get a V you won't be able to get a warranty for it through USAA (they won't cover a V). Also, finding a low mileage good condition V will not necessarily be easy or low price. Been there done that! There were only about 2,000 made so the search zone is pretty small once you cut out the high mileage/wrecked/totaled ones. We looked for one for 6 mos, ended up buying it unseen with the help of a dealer friend (though with all the inspections etc we could get), & with only 15k on the clock it was still in way rougher shape than the base that had 32k on it when we got it. Some other folks have posted similar condition problems for low mileage V's on here. That said all is well now but it took more time & money than we would have expected. Good luck in your search!

More importantly wish you the best of luck with your surgery - you have a great attitude as I'm not sure I'd be able to call such surgery for myself "simple."
 
I have become more receptive to getting a low mile V vs. Base/Platinum since I will get an after market warranty anyway....not much of a price difference for same color/miles when I look over listings. I can't work on the base any easier than the V in reality and the V seems to be equal as to issues....any observations appreciated. I am having a simple, single bypass surgery being done next Tues but after that planning on really bearing down on a purchase.....I am 71 but NO other issues.....had tonsils out as a child....that is IT....look at myself as a vintage car with everything working even though a little old....but never abused.....LOL
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Good luck with the surgery and the purchase. Many times "re-built" is better than new - - -especially after 71 years!
 
Visors!?

Took my wife (5' 0") to drive an XLR locally and she actually fits pretty well with one exception.....she has to put the seat up and close to reach pedals and we noticed on this '06 that the sun visors do NOT go up.....they are actually horizontal.....thought they should flip up....is this true for ALL the XLRs, just this one or is it model year sensitive!? She gets the impression that the windshield/visor are just TOO CLOSE to her head....any insights!?...Thanks....
 
I have never regretted buying the v. As you said, warranty is warranty, so if the purchase price is not a problem, it makes sense to me to get a v, unless you have no intention of using the power.
 
LennyK1
First XLR I looked at was a base. After seeing it I just knew I had to have one. The next one that came up on my radar was a 08 V. Once I seen and drove the V that was it I needed to have a V. I eventually found a 06 V with 10 grand on it. I had the GM used car premium care warrantee which it at that time ,was better than the new car warrantee (longer) I have owned the V since 09 and have not had any problems. It now has 28 grand on it and still performs great. Trust me if you watch what V you buy you won't be sorry if you like performance. V are a little harder to find and there is a premium put on them but it is well worth it.
Good luck on your surgery and I wish you the best on your search!!!!!
V Happy
 

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