Clicking in front end... radiator supports?

[kwoody88]

I searched and was unable to find anything on this topic -- so I apologize if I just didn't find it. Recently I noticed that when I would turn at slow speeds (parking mainly) that a clicking sound was coming from the front end -- I figured it had to be like a torn CV boot, which had caused this problem in another car I had... but was informed the XLR doesn't have CV boots. Anyway, after a full day of checking things out, they called and said I needed a new skid plate and new radiator supports. They said this kind of work is just done at the body shop, and I needed to make an appointment. $660. Do you guys think this is hurting anything? I'd rather not deal with it at the moment, but I don't want to hurt the car if it needs to be fixed immediately. Any thoughts? It's a 2005 with 52,000 miles. It has never been in an accident.

 

[Cadillac Tech]

Your car does have CV boots on the rear axles.

The noise may be coming from one of the hub bearings. I had an '06 XLR that made a clicking noise from the passenger side on slow speed turns in a parking lot. Replaced the RF hub assembly & the noise was gone.

 

[Cadillac Tech]

Noise from rear of vehicle

<TABLE width="95%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="7%">Subject:</TD><TD>Tapping or Scraping Noise From Rear Wheel Area (Replace Wheel Drive Shaft Nut)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>​

<TABLE width="95%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="7%">Models:</TD><TD>2005-2009 Cadillac XLR</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE width="95%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="7%"></TD><TD>2005-2009 Chevrolet Corvette</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>​

<HR>This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 07-04-95-001 (Section 04 – Driveline/Axle). <HR>Condition


Some customers may comment on a tapping or a scraping noise coming from the rear wheel area.
Cause


This condition may be due to the torque on the wheel drive shaft nut relaxing over time.
Correction


Replace the left and the right wheel drive shaft nut following the procedure below.

<TABLE width="98%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=15 align=left>1. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Remove the center cap from the rim.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE width="98%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=15 align=left>2. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Remove and discard the wheel drive shaft nut.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE width="98%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=15 align=left>3. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Apply LOCTITE™ 272, or equivalent, to the threads of the axle shaft.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE width="98%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=15 align=left>4. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Install the nut and tighten to the new specification.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>​

Tighten
Tighten the nut to 215 N·m (160 lb ft).

<TABLE width="98%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=15 align=left>5. </TD><TD vAlign=top>Install the center cap to the rim.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>​

Important: The vehicle should not be driven for 24 hours following the repair in order to allow the thread lock to cure.
Parts Information



<TABLE border=0 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD><TABLE border=1 width="95%" align=left><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>
Part Number





</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>
Description





</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>
Qty





</TH></TR><TR height=50 vAlign=center><TD vAlign=center align=middle>

10257766






</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>

Nut






</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>

2 (one per side)






</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE width="95%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="80%" align=left></TD><TD width=42 align=middle>

</TD><TD width=167 align=middle>WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION




</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

</FORM>

 

[kwoody88]

Thanks, Bruce, for your help

They said that they looked at the axles and said all was well -- on the phone before I took it in, though, they said it could be the hubs but they would have to look and see. I really just don't want to pay $660 and realize it wasn't the problem... or replace a hub and realize it didn't make a difference.

IF it is indeed the skid plate and radiator supports (both sides apparently), would that hurt the car if I continue to drive it? I am planning to drive it from Birmingham, AL to just south of Indianapolis this evening.

 

[Cadillac Tech]

It's hard to say without seeing the car, but I would think you will be OK on your trip.

 

[kwoody88]

Thanks Won't be too far from you if you get bored this weekend

 

[tyrone]

clicking

Having broken my radiator support frame by bottoming it out while turning and crossing a rain gutter thru the intersection in Idaho, I don`t see how it would cause a clicking sound. I twisted the frame just ever so slightly and broke one of the welds. Didn`t have any clicking noise. I paid around $250.00 for a new support and spent about 1 1/2 hours making the change out. Its really pretty easy. Lets us know what you find out.

 

[kwoody88]

I'm not capable of welding -- does it have to be welded back in, or is it a fairly easy repair? For now, I am assuming that they are right (which may be a mistake). They definitely think the weld is broken...

 

[tyrone]

clicking

It depends. My lower bar, the one you can see under the front of the car that gets scraped if you pull in to close to a curb was the bar that had the spot weld broken. The bar curls up to another piece where they are welded together near the frame. That is the weld I broke. It can be welded on the car, if that is the same spot on your car. I replace my entire radiator support because I twisted the other side and I wanted it right. Its really not that hard to replace. The biggest pain is to remove all the screws under the front bumper fascia that hold the air dam in place. The front bumper has to come off and the support just unbolts from the frame. No need to support the radiator, its held in place up above.

 

[HOMEGAMEROOM]

The support is made from aluminum - you may be able to find a local person (like I did) or bodyshop who can reweld or repair it. It would certainly be cheaper.

It does support the radiator - you'll probably be fine on your trip BUT the radiator will only be supported by the inlet and/or outlet hoses.

 

[Rob]

Thanks Bruce!

If you come across more of these Service Bulletins for the XLR, let me know as I'll add them into the Knowledgebase here.

 

[kwoody88]

Thanks guys for all your help!! I really need to get under there and see what is going on... it's just hard, as all of you know, because it sits so low to the ground. I'm not sure the jack I have will get under there, and my ramps are too steep... I believe that the weld is broken where it connects to the frame.

 

[kwoody88]

I saw immediately where the skid plate weld is broken -- doesn't seem like this would cause the clicking, but I suppose it's possible. I was unable to find the radiator supports... would I have to take something off to get to them? I didn't take the wheels off or anything to look at the skid plate. It doesn't look like it's going to be too hard to replace.