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Help! Is it me or the car?

CtCarGuy

Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2020
Messages
12
Location
Connecticut
Took my new to me 2005 XLR for a 100 mile run and noticed some things that are either me or the car.

1. When starting out, ride was very rough. I could feel everything in the road. Later it smoothed out. Owner claimed it had new shocks. Is this ride adjustable?

2. The tires seem to want to track like the old bias type and made driving a chore. That was for about 50 miles and then seemed to be gone now. Made it a pain to drive and keep straight. I know only have 4/32" left but that should not be the cause. Getting new tires the winter.

3. Steering wheel seems to need a lot of strength. It likes to stay straight and seems to have pressure pushing back other than when straight. Makes for slow steering response. Honestly, with 2 not so great arms, I felt like I fighting the power steering all the time to turn or adjust which is not fun cruising. Does seem to be somewhat speed sensitive but not sure. The back pressure can be quite high and the steering response seemed slow.

So... is it the car or me? THX
 
Suspension problems ?

Guy

Its sounds like the car needs an alignment and new tires.

The shocks on the XLR are the magnetic type that works with a module and sensors in order for instantly ajust itself for the type of driving your car is in.

A visit to a suspension shop could tell you the problems of handling with you XLR, also have them chek the steering, sabiliser bushings, the ball joints and so on....

Welcome on this site.

Good Luck:wave:
 
2005 new to you.... OK

#2 > Are all the tires currently on the car 'run flats'? If previous owner mixed changing tires with 'run flats' and 'non-fun flats' installed,,,you will probably notice the car wondering in the traffic lanes. I noticed this on another car I owned. Just a thought.
 
It’s sound similar to mine before new tires and alignment, I don’t use the runflats and some day I may regret that, but I have about three different roadside services which one includes AAA so I’m not too concerned if I would happen to get a flat I also keep a mini compressor with the tire slime. I had along conversation with my tire guy and we ended up purchasing new BF Goodrich tires at half the prices and I gotta say I love them! The Goodyear tires that were on the car when I bought it were shot. I then went with a very expensive Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires at 1200$ and only 30,000 mile tire. After a couple thousand mile It didn’t handle like it should it did not ride like it should and it did not like the feel when driving! At less than 25,000 miles these tires were shot and I then installed the BF Goodrich g-Force Comp-2 AS tires, a 45,000 mile tire, now it rides like Cadillac, drives like a Cadillac and it also handles like Cadillac needless to say I love them! I keep the factory amount of air in the tires at 30 pounds pressure these tires are a little aggressive because I went with the all season tire but they do grip really well see below for some pictures
891320bbc9ac561c209c04cb316df768.jpg

6a1ef10395b9d5ebe16ade12bd178c90.jpg

7cf61cae10c7b7b0e4e7f2d7ba453762.jpg



Thanks
Caddy Dan using Tapatalk
 
The tires are Michelin Pilot runflats dated 3912 39th week 2012. They are ready to be replaced with non-run flat tires. RF are way too heavy and crazy expensive. I prefer a can of goo and AAA. There is 4/32" left but I am awaiting getting my extra set of rims back and have them finished in black chrome. Hopefully next week.

It is the pushback on the steering that concerns me more.
 
Took my new to me 2005 XLR for a 100 mile run and noticed some things that are either me or the car.

1. When starting out, ride was very rough. I could feel everything in the road. Later it smoothed out. Owner claimed it had new shocks. Is this ride adjustable?

2. The tires seem to want to track like the old bias type and made driving a chore. That was for about 50 miles and then seemed to be gone now. Made it a pain to drive and keep straight. I know only have 4/32" left but that should not be the cause. Getting new tires the winter.

3. Steering wheel seems to need a lot of strength. It likes to stay straight and seems to have pressure pushing back other than when straight. Makes for slow steering response. Honestly, with 2 not so great arms, I felt like I fighting the power steering all the time to turn or adjust which is not fun cruising. Does seem to be somewhat speed sensitive but not sure. The back pressure can be quite high and the steering response seemed slow.

So... is it the car or me? THX

Howdy,
Curious, nobody has mentioned power steering fluid, pump or <gulp> the steering rack itself. I'd think unless you're driving around with almost no air in the tires, the requirement for both arms to turn the steering wheel would point to something in the steering gear.

Sticky balljoints are usually not much of an issue as they are somewhat of the pivot point. Tie rod ends...perhaps a little, though they'd have to be seized up quite badly.

If you're able, if you elevated the front-end of the car (both wheels - jack stands), to raise the wheels off the ground, start the car and cycle the steering through left to right, right to left - avoid hitting or holding the stops at either end as that doesn't tend to do pumps and racks much good at all. See how the steering feels with that test? It should be smooth - not lumpy. Quite effortless as well...like 1 finger effortless.

What's the total mileage on the car by the way? Any signs of any curious fluid leaks from the front, and is the power steering fluid decent and at a decent level?

Your tires wouldn't pass here by age as a matter of fact. But I don't really think that's the problem...not unless they are very under-pressured somehow.

HTH!

Gord :thumbsup</gulp>
 
Now that you mentioned the power steering rack, before I purchased mine 05 I notice in the papers of past repair work of things that the rack was replaced, but since it’s unknown why in the information, and not a popular conversation here of others needed to replace a rack, I can’t imagine it being a major problem on the XLR, but it would not hurt to have it checked, although a front end alignment would find a rack problem anyways. Good Luck


Thanks
Caddy Dan using Tapatalk
 
Thanks. I checked the fluid and it is fine. I think I need to drive it more to home in on the perimeters. Car has 83K miles and was service by Cadillac 30 days ago. No leaks.

I am hoping to make it through the season on these runflat tires. I'm waiting on my extra set of rims to come back and finish them with block chrome.
 
Last edited:
Sliding slightly OFF TOPIC:

You owners replacing tires with 'non-run flats' are correct, you can fix a nail wound or puncture with the fix-it kit,,,,,but should you have a

blowout with non-run flats you are risking severe body damage. The dollars you saved will mean little if this should occur. WTH, you

bought a hi-end Cadillac and can't afford a great, run-flat tire? Picture of one who saved the extra dollars on tire expense V V V
.


XLR NET BLOWOUT.jpg
 
Poor tires

OUCH.....

Driving with used tires or cheap tires could get you that kind of problem, it is rare of our days but it could happen when the car is frequently drove hard, and having the tires side walls cut, etc .

IAN :thumbsup
 
the above post is true but .Run flats come apart also. They are just designed to be able to drive with little to no air in them and hold the car up. thus the stiff sidewall and ride. If you run over something that cuts the tire or you continue to drive on any tire for a distance with low pressure it may come apart. Run flats are limited to a few tires in our size where there are almost limitless regular tires with all sorts of performance not given in run flats. I do not know for sure but have heard if a nail in a run flat is driven on they are thrown away and a new tire is needed. A nail hole can be repaired fine on a regular tire. any tire damage can result in expensive damage if not taken care of immediately.
 
Members here have reported the Driveguard runflats by Bridgestone are both affordable and perform satisfactorily. Personally, I have Continental Extreme Contact DWS high performance all weather tire (non-run flats). I have been very happy with these.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Members here have reported the Driveguard runflats by Bridgestone are both affordable and perform satisfactorily.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I will step it up,,,,,, Bridgestone Driveguard runflats are affordable and perform fantastically with a solid smooth ride!

My choice when we replaced tires on XLR and Corvette :thumbsup
 
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+1 for Driveguard. Went with run flats based on the advice of a mechanic friend I respect & the picture Pure Zen posted. Nothing is perfect but run flats give me better odds of avoiding disaster.
 
1. Run flats come apart also. They are just designed to be able to drive with little to no air in them and hold the car up. thus the stiff sidewall and ride. If you run over something that cuts the tire or you continue to drive on any tire for a distance with low pressure it may come apart.

2. I do not know for sure but have heard if a nail in a run flat is driven on they are thrown away and a new tire is needed.

MT,,, 1. Can you show us a picture of a specific, confirmed 'runflat tire' that has came apart? I've never read or seen anything about a runflat disintegrating.

2. i've owned six cars with 'runflat tires',,,five of them have picked up a nail and I patched all of those tires with the plug-kit with no leaks, and no problems.
IMO, your #2 statement isn't true if the nail puncture is in the road tread area. Sidewall nail situation, yes need to replace tire.

Back to #1 > Here is a picture of a runflat sidewall on a Corvette that took a rock shrapnel hit to the sidewall (rt frt tire) and of course all the air went out. No plug kit was going to repair this damage. This tire went 130 miles at 60mph to the nearest town that had a non-runflat tire to replace it.
How do I know this? I followed this Corvette the entire way staying behind it to warn the Corvette owner if the tire might come apart, and having them stop immediately. Made a believer out of us owners on that cruise event who witnessed this situation. The Corvette owner wrote the story and with pictures sent them to Michelin who were happy to hear the story. Michelin sent them a gift certificate for 'TWO new Michelin runflat' tires at no-cost to them'.

9 25 runflat.jpg


My suggestion > if one is going to do ALL in-town driving, then buy non-runflat tires for replacement. If one is going to do long mileage trips or high speed driving, then buy runflat tires and have piece of mind.
 
Just ask any manufacture of run flats .If driven over 50 miles they must be replaced. If the hole is larger than a small nail they must be replaced. The policy with all nationwide chains is to replace not repair them. If you like them buy them. You sacrifice traction and ride for convenience of driving to a location should you have a flat. Also when you have a flat with one that needs replacing you will most likely not find a match in stock unless you live in a very large city so you will wind up buying a spare and then have to buy a replacement later or buy two that match which is what the tire stores try and sell . Lots of on and off the rims . I have had very few flats in my life and I drive a lot. If its a nail it usually shows up flat in y driveway and I can fix it or swap out a spare I keep. I personally like a performance tire with traction and a little give in the sidewall for my style of driving. I dont take photos but have seen them on the side of the road being changed and at the dealership. I will ask one of my friend at AAA to take a photo of the next one he tows in with a run flat if I think of it.
 
Blow out tire

pure zen

If your car runs with some no flats tires or others, a blowout is very very rare unless the car hit a sharp metal piece on the road.... like you mentionned.

Would it happen very often, the tire comp. would not gives away tires as a goodwill.

Having a tire plugs kit in the car could be fine for the regular tires ( or run flat ) on many XLR car owners that drive at a normal speed.

IAN :thumbsup
 
ian, run flats must be broken down and inspected. see photo . you cannot repair a run flat from the outside. The plug MUST be installed and bonded from the inside of the tire to keep from delamination of the inner section from the belts. tire companies all say tires of any style need to be plugged from the inside . Not that a lot of people still plug them from the outside. but do it at your own risk. this tire would show no damage from the outside but upon breaking down the tire is ruined as can be seen.run flat.jpg article found at tire rack on run flat damage
 
Q: ",,,,you cannot repair a run flat from the outside."

I can only speak from my own experiences with 5 cars with runflats that I plugged from the outside of the tread. Two of those cars didn't go on long road trips, but the XLR, a Corvette, and a Viper did make long, round trips to Wyoming, Nebraska, Missouri, and Texas with plugged runflats without any issues what-so-ever.

Tire manufactures always make statements and recommendation that aren't necessarily 100% accurate. Their statements are made on the side of legal accountability,,, to protect them from possible lawsuits. Do what makes you satisfied, its your vehicle.
 

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