Does the pump energize when you try to open the rear decklid?
How many times did you cycle the rear decklid and folding top successfully after you crunched whatever was in the trunk?
Are any messages displayed on the DIC?
Did the rear pulldown cinch latch actually engage and pull the rear decklid shut on the object in the trunk, or did the process stall and stop before complete closure?
Try opening the trunk manually with the key in the bumper.
Once it's open, turn the hydraulic valve next to the pump in the trunk's lower/left compartment under the cover under the carpet to the Bypass position. This will ensure you're not fighting hydraulic lock as you're moving the rear decklid up and down. (All of this is covered in your owners manual.)
While it's raised, inspect the pull-down cinch latch that locks the rear decklid in place when the decklid lowers. You can use a pen to activate it -not your fingers!
Gently lift and lower the rear decklid, noting any binding; if you lower it fully, the cinch latch should engage and pull the rear decklid fully shut. It will smash your fingers, so beware. If you lower it too far, you'll have to manually raise the rear decklid again. It's best to have a helper turn the key while you lift it.
Visually inspect the two scissors lift mechanisms on either side to ensure they aren't bent or bowed.
Check the two hydraulic pistons for any leakage adjacent to them.
There are two pneumatic air-assist pistons under the carpet on either side at the base of the scissors lift. Check those out too.
If everything looks and feels okay, you'll need to take your car to a dealer and have them run a diagnostic test on the system to ensure the hydraulics are functioning properly, the sensors haven't shifted mechanically and the mechanisms aren't damaged. Without the proper diagnostic tools, you're very limited as to what you can repair and test on the folding top.
CC
