Help! Check engine light

[CNC]

DUH

Yes that's what I thought.


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Is there more than one manifold type? Duh, yes there is. One brings fuel and air in, the other two evacuate spent gases. So not being 'specified' until now, I guessed wrong. Assumed due to prior debate about Corsa Exhaust possibly being at fault? Not. --- I have been wrong before once or twice, and in all likelihood will be again sometime. FYI, I flunked 'mind reading' #101 and #202. SO IT WAS THE INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS THAT WERE LOOSE. GOT IT!

 

[Rule62]

Is there more than one manifold type? Duh, yes there is. One brings fuel and air in, the other two evacuate spent gases. So not being 'specified' until now, I guessed wrong. Assumed due to prior debate about Corsa Exhaust possibly being at fault? Not. --- I have been wrong before once or twice, and in all likelihood will be again sometime. FYI, I flunked 'mind reading' #101 and #202. SO IT WAS THE INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS THAT WERE LOOSE. GOT IT!

Even a busted watch is right twice a day...unless it's digital. [emoji6]


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[MikepOH2]

Check Engine Light

I had simular problem. Cadi dealer told me the right side front and back O2 sensors needed to be replaced price quoted 565.00. They reset it and has not come back on for a few weeks. Found sensors on line GM parts front 105.00 rear 67.00. Has anyone replaced these I understand they screw in ports...
MJP

 

[CNC]

Yes. On severall different vehicles

I had simular problem. Cadi dealer told me the right side front and back O2 sensors needed to be replaced price quoted 565.00. They reset it and has not come back on for a few weeks. Found sensors on line GM parts front 105.00 rear 67.00. Has anyone replaced these I understand they screw in ports...
MJP

The hardest part is getting it jacked up in the air so I can squeeze my 'wide track body' underneath the vehicle while laying on my back. On the XLR's don't forget to use the "Hockey Puck Spacers" for your "Low Profile Walker Jack", and place "Jack Stands" in specified locations. Essential! Then the next hardest part is disconnecting the wire clip in the harness from The O2 Sensors without breaking the snap connectors. Then one simply unscrews the O2 Sensors. "Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty." Just get them in 'tight' and reconnect harness and any wire retainers and shields, Walla, you are done.

There is a special Ratchet 02 Socket available at your local parts store that has a big open U shaped cut up one side for removing them. The slit opening provides clearance for the wire(s). Not always necessary depending on how much room one may have? I will use it, or just a large (14") adjustable end wrench.

 

[Dwolf]

OBD two scanner not reading codes

Serval Years ago I bought an OBD ll code reader and it’s worked on every vehicle that I’ve had till I got the XLR when I plug the scanner into it all I get is 4 zeros it should be reading the code shouldn’t it since my check engine light is on is there a difference in the OBD ll scanner’s? I’ve checked the gas cap and it’s tight. My car seems to run absolutely perfect as lots of power not to work whenever misfires gets relatively good gas mileage. But I would really like my check engine light to be off and find out what’s causing it to come on and stays on all the time. It’s a 2009 XLR platinum addition

 

[CNC]

OBD II Code Scanner

Serval Years ago I bought an OBD ll code reader and it’s worked on every vehicle that I’ve had till I got the XLR when I plug the scanner into it all I get is 4 zeros it should be reading the code shouldn’t it since my check engine light is on is there a difference in the OBD ll scanner’s? I’ve checked the gas cap and it’s tight. My car seems to run absolutely perfect as lots of power not to work whenever misfires gets relatively good gas mileage. But I would really like my check engine light to be off and find out what’s causing it to come on and stays on all the time. It’s a 2009 XLR platinum addition

Yesterday I re-scanned my XLR with my OBD II after I had disconnected the battery, then reconnected. To my surprise the recent Code 0P174 (System Too Lean) was still stored and the check engine light was still on. Surprised because on almost all other vehicles I have worked on, disconnecting the battery usually erases all stored codes. But obviously NOT on an XLR. I was wrong on this for The XLR. Disconnecting the battery does NOT erase the code or turn off the Check Engine Light.

At first, it wouldn't rescan the system at all. Came back and said "Check ECM for Code". and, 0000 ?????? Then I realized that I hadn't erased the previously stored code in my OBD II, So disconnected the plug in at The OBD II (easier than the under dash hook up) and erased stored codes in The OBD II. Plugged The OBD II back into the harness. Started the car and with it running (also ACC Ignition Position is OK) told it to scan the system again. Yes the Check Engine Light was still there and had stayed on. It came back with the same code as the first time, "System Too Lean". Since I had already checked possible causes other than the O2 Sensors (loose intake bolts, none. Fuel pressure, OK. Gas cap, OK). --- I then told The OBD II to erase the code from the vehicle, and it did. CEL went out on the dash.

Then I put good fuel injection cleaner in the gas tank, and went out and drove her. So far, the Check Engine Light (CEL) has not reappeared. So probably a "NIT-NOID". A B.S. Code. --- What can cause a B.S. Code and the CEL to come on? Bad gas. Water in the gas. A piece of small debris temporarily messes up a fuel injector or two. Most likely water in the gas, particularly as we most often do not drive these cars very much, leading to condensation in the fuel tank. FYI, auto parts stores sell 'water dryer' to put in your gas tank.

IF (?) she resets the same code, then I will pull the 02 Sensors Harness and check them for resistance (need to know OHMS Specs) with my Multi Meter. But at 36,000 miles on her, I doubt that they are bad. So, I think, it is a "NIT-NOID".

So first, before you try to scan yours, make sure you have erased any and all codes in your OBD II. Then rescan, and tell your OBD II to erase the set vehicle code from your XLR. It should do so, and the dash light (CEL) should go off. Or you can take it to an auto parts store (O'Reilly, Advance, etc) and they will hook their scanner up, and erase it for you.

Hope this helps.

 

[mickeytee]

erase codes

Yesterday I re-scanned my XLR with my OBD II after I had disconnected the battery, then reconnected. To my surprise the recent Code 0P174 (System Too Lean) was still stored and the check engine light was still on. Surprised because on almost all other vehicles I have worked on, disconnecting the battery usually erases all stored codes. But obviously NOT on an XLR. I was wrong on this for The XLR. Disconnecting the battery does NOT erase the code or turn off the Check Engine Light.

At first, it wouldn't rescan the system at all. Came back and said "Check ECM for Code". and, 0000 ?????? Then I realized that I hadn't erased the previously stored code in my OBD II, So disconnected the plug in at The OBD II (easier than the under dash hook up) and erased stored codes in The OBD II. Plugged The OBD II back into the harness. Started the car and with it running (also ACC Ignition Position is OK) told it to scan the system again. Yes the Check Engine Light was still there and had stayed on. It came back with the same code as the first time, "System Too Lean". Since I had already checked possible causes other than the O2 Sensors (loose intake bolts, none. Fuel pressure, OK. Gas cap, OK). --- I then told The OBD II to erase the code from the vehicle, and it did. CEL went out on the dash.

Then I put good fuel injection cleaner in the gas tank, and went out and drove her. So far, the Check Engine Light (CEL) has not reappeared. So probably a "NIT-NOID". A B.S. Code. --- What can cause a B.S. Code and the CEL to come on? Bad gas. Water in the gas. A piece of small debris temporarily messes up a fuel injector or two. Most likely water in the gas, particularly as we most often do not drive these cars very much, leading to condensation in the fuel tank. FYI, auto parts stores sell 'water dryer' to put in your gas tank.

IF (?) she resets the same code, then I will pull the 02 Sensors Harness and check them for resistance (need to know OHMS Specs) with my Multi Meter. But at 36,000 miles on her, I doubt that they are bad. So, I think, it is a "NIT-NOID".

So first, before you try to scan yours, make sure you have erased any and all codes in your OBD II. Then rescan, and tell your OBD II to erase the set vehicle code from your XLR. It should do so, and the dash light (CEL) should go off. Or you can take it to an auto parts store (O'Reilly, Advance, etc) and they will hook their scanner up, and erase it for you.

Hope this helps.

I have found that corporate will not allow Advance or Oriellys to erase codes. they can read them for you but they will lose their job if they actually erase them. Legal issues you know

 

[CNC]

I have found that corporate will not allow Advance or Oriellys to erase codes. they can read them for you but they will lose their job if they actually erase them. Legal issues you know

Interesting. I did not know this. Some years back they would scan and erase. I guess in our litigious society, not surprising considering things these days.

 

[Dwolf]

OBDII SCANNER

Yesterday I re-scanned my XLR with my OBD II after I had disconnected the battery, then reconnected. To my surprise the recent Code 0P174 (System Too Lean) was still stored and the check engine light was still on. Surprised because on almost all other vehicles I have worked on, disconnecting the battery usually erases all stored codes. But obviously NOT on an XLR. I was wrong on this for The XLR. Disconnecting the battery does NOT erase the code or turn off the Check Engine Light.

At first, it wouldn't rescan the system at all. Came back and said "Check ECM for Code". and, 0000 ?????? Then I realized that I hadn't erased the previously stored code in my OBD II, So disconnected the plug in at The OBD II (easier than the under dash hook up) and erased stored codes in The OBD II. Plugged The OBD II back into the harness. Started the car and with it running (also ACC Ignition Position is OK) told it to scan the system again. Yes the Check Engine Light was still there and had stayed on. It came back with the same code as the first time, "System Too Lean". Since I had already checked possible causes other than the O2 Sensors (loose intake bolts, none. Fuel pressure, OK. Gas cap, OK). --- I then told The OBD II to erase the code from the vehicle, and it did. CEL went out on the dash.

Then I put good fuel injection cleaner in the gas tank, and went out and drove her. So far, the Check Engine Light (CEL) has not reappeared. So probably a "NIT-NOID". A B.S. Code. --- What can cause a B.S. Code and the CEL to come on? Bad gas. Water in the gas. A piece of small debris temporarily messes up a fuel injector or two. Most likely water in the gas, particularly as we most often do not drive these cars very much, leading to condensation in the fuel tank. FYI, auto parts stores sell 'water dryer' to put in your gas tank.

IF (?) she resets the same code, then I will pull the 02 Sensors Harness and check them for resistance (need to know OHMS Specs) with my Multi Meter. But at 36,000 miles on her, I doubt that they are bad. So, I think, it is a "NIT-NOID".

So first, before you try to scan yours, make sure you have erased any and all codes in your OBD II. Then rescan, and tell your OBD II to erase the set vehicle code from your XLR. It should do so, and the dash light (CEL) should go off. Or you can take it to an auto parts store (O'Reilly, Advance, etc) and they will hook their scanner up, and erase it for you.

Hope this helps.

I've tried and hooking the battery hooking the battery back up,nothing changed then I
Hooked my OBD ll scanner up under the dash,turned to ignition switch to accessory,scan tool reads all oooo's, pushed read,same result, how do I reset the codes before I scan it I thought the purpose and scanning it was to read the codes and then turned it engine light off but I'm getting no results in a matter what I do

 

[CNC]

Try Again

I've tried and hooking the battery hooking the battery back up,nothing changed then I
Hooked my OBD ll scanner up under the dash,turned to ignition switch to accessory,scan tool reads all oooo's, pushed read,same result, how do I reset the codes before I scan it I thought the purpose and scanning it was to read the codes and then turned it engine light off but I'm getting no results in a matter what I do

Hi back.

1) The battery disconnect and reconnect, as stated, will NOT erase codes on The XLR or turn off the CEL light on the dash.

2) Make sure you have a good battery 'in' your OBD II. Probably a 9V?

3) There has to be a reset to clear stored codes option in your OBD II Scanner. Just go through the button menus until you find it. Then clear stored codes inside your OBD II. If there is a 'Reset' option, push that also. --- On my OBD II I discovered after some trial and error(and reading the manual, Duh : ) that you have to clear it 'before' you re-scan.

4) Once I did this it successfully rescanned the system when hooked up to the car (either engine running, or ignition in the ACC position). Afterwards it asked me "Clear All Codes?" I clicked 'Yes'. The CEL on the instrument cluster went out.

Best, CNC

 

[FulviXLR]

Serval Years ago I bought an OBD ll code reader and it’s worked on every vehicle that I’ve had till I got the XLR when I plug the scanner into it all I get is 4 zeros it should be reading the code shouldn’t it since my check engine light is on is there a difference in the OBD ll scanner’s? I’ve checked the gas cap and it’s tight. My car seems to run absolutely perfect as lots of power not to work whenever misfires gets relatively good gas mileage. But I would really like my check engine light to be off and find out what’s causing it to come on and stays on all the time. It’s a 2009 XLR platinum addition

FulviXLR

As a reply to your issue I’ve had the same issue and after all my try’s to figure it out I gave up and paid my local Cadillac Dealer $90.00 and got the
reason turned out the prior owner did some things to the cats....got it handled with a certified rebuilt catalytic converter ....no more check engine light[emoji41]


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[FulviXLR]

Hi after much effort I gave up and went to the Cadillac service and paid $90.00 for a diagnostic turned out the previous owner gutted the cats and to the tune of $5g’s it could be replaced with two new cats....Well for $900. I bought two certified rebuilds or you could consider in what is your specific
problem is if it’s not going to effect your engine in a negative get extender tubes installed for less than $100.


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[ljkrenek]

I have had my 05 for 21/2 years now and have had continuous problems with the CEL. I ALWAYS take it to O'Reily's and have it scanned. Most times there are so many solutions or non-solutions that one would be chasing their tail for hours to try to correct. Did have to replace a gas cap once which corrected the problem and replaced the coil on number 6 cyl once which also worked but have usually found that these CEL occurrences are nonsensical to the greatest extent and have had several very astute Caddy techs verify same. Most times one finds exactly NOTHING to cause the problem.
Moral to the story.........always have the CEL scanned. It's free at most auto parts stores and is well worth the time. One can then decide whether to seek assistance or try to fix the problem themselves. A Caddy dealer btw wanted to replace the catalytic converter on the bank that I replaced the coil on #6..............Hmmmmmm??? DO you know how much that would have cost had I believed them??? over $1500.00!!! Catalytic converter failures DO NOT cause intermittent irregular misfires....Duuuhh!!!