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Engine won't crank

Remi

Active Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
25
Location
Ballangen
My XLR/V(s)
2004 XLR
Hi!

Sometimes the engine will not crank.
This happens once in a while in both my 2004 and 2005 mod.
Battery's are new and have enough power to it. If I take off one battery cable and reconnect it will start right up.. It's very annoying to have to do that, with all reprogramming of windows etc.. .
I have tried to take the shifter up and down incase of some problems there, but no change.
No codes what so ever on Tech 2.
Any ideas?

Remi
 
Hi!

Sometimes the engine will not crank.
This happens once in a while in both my 2004 and 2005 mod.
Battery's are new and have enough power to it. If I take off one battery cable and reconnect it will start right up.. It's very annoying to have to do that, with all reprogramming of windows etc.. .
I have tried to take the shifter up and down incase of some problems there, but no change.
No codes what so ever on Tech 2.
Any ideas?

Remi

Can you be more specific about what does and does not work? It suggests to me some form of immobilization, like not being in park (as seen by the PCM).

For example, do the headlamps come on? The lack of codes is consistent with the shifter not reporting correctly, but doesn't the display come up to say 'not in park' in that situation? Same as no fob detected.
 
Hi and thank's for your answer.

Everything else works like it should, lights, heater (all powered accesories) no message in the DIC (like no fob FOB detected or not in park etc.).
As I said, I've tried to move the shifter up and down a couple of times just to see if it's some misreading there, but no difference.
The lights are nice and sharp, when the ignition is on so it has full power to it , but it doesen't seem to get the crank signal. When I take off one battery cable and reconnect it will crank and start the engine like it should.

Remi
 
Curious,,,,,which battery cable are you removing? + or -
 
Minus........ But does it make a difference what I choose of - and + ??

Remi
 
Minus........ But does it make a difference what I choose of - and + ??

Remi

Electrically, no.
Safety wise, yes, you should always undo the ground (negative) first. This is because if the wrench touches a ground while undoing the clamp and you are on the live (positive) terminal, you can do a great deal of damage, start a fire, all sorts. If you are on the ground terminal, nothing will happen. Once the ground is disconnected, it doesn't matter if you touch a ground while removing the live (positive) terminal, there is no circuit.
 
.....but any idea where to start to get to the problem? :rolleyes:

Remi
 
I would start by making sure all grounds are clean and tight.
 
Thanks! :)
Yes, I will do. But since the car starts right away after, reconnecting battery wouldn't you think that the ground (s) is good?
Is there many grounding points on XLR's ?

Remi
 
.....but any idea where to start to get to the problem? :rolleyes:

Remi

This sounds like one for a Tech-2. First, you need to know if, on pressing the start button, the signal is coming through. If the start button doesn't work then that would match the symptom. Not saying that is the problem, but you have to start someplace. A not uncommon source of trouble (generally, not XLR specifically) is in the starter. However, neither of these really match your 'it works if you disconnect and reconnect the battery' description. That suggests a computer malfunction, again a Tech-2 will be your friend. Given you are tracking down an intermittent, you might want to monitor the crank signal, review manual on page 6-640 and then 6-599. The crank relay is #43 in the underhood fuses, it takes power (to the starter relay) from fuse #30. You really need to know if relay 43 is clicking. Can you fit a test lamp somehow? The ground of the circuit that energises the crank relay (called starter enable) comes from the ECM, the positive end of the signal comes from relay #2 in the BCM, the BCM's crank relay.
 

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