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Ign Switched power

Jerry Lee

Member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Messages
20
Location
Pa
My XLR/V(s)
2006 Silver XLR-V
I am looking for a switched 12V power source to connect a bluetooth device so that when I start the car the BT reconnects with my phone.
seems most things like the lighters, etc are always on, what are my options in finding switched power? the load is less than 100Ma.
thanks
 
There is ignition switched power on the connector on the back of the rear view mirror. I use it to power my radar detector. Can't remember the wire colors, but can check tomorrow.
 
I've used a tap at the run/accessory fuse. It's in the passenger side underfloor panel. in a small section at the bottom with a plastic cover. Upper left in that section, just under the power seat circuit breaker. See owners manual for a diagram.

Note this fuse has power in accessory and run, but will go off the moment you shut off the car.

The lighter/power sockets will stay on for 20 minutes after the last door close, although the service manual diagnostics indicate they should shut off with a door open like the radio. Clearly a BCM programming error, but Cadillac refuses to fix it.
 
There is ignition switched power on the connector on the back of the rear view mirror. I use it to power my radar detector. Can't remember the wire colors, but can check tomorrow.

Thank you, do you know if this power stays on with the radio, until the door is opened? i would prefer not having my blutooth unhook when I stop the engine while on a call, which is frequent.
 
I've used a tap at the run/accessory fuse. It's in the passenger side underfloor panel. in a small section at the bottom with a plastic cover. Upper left in that section, just under the power seat circuit breaker. See owners manual for a diagram.

Note this fuse has power in accessory and run, but will go off the moment you shut off the car.

The lighter/power sockets will stay on for 20 minutes after the last door close, although the service manual diagnostics indicate they should shut off with a door open like the radio. Clearly a BCM programming error, but Cadillac refuses to fix it.

Thanks for your help. I'm hoping to find a source which does stay live with the radio after ignition is off before the door is opened, Ill post what I find or make.
 
I spent a long time looking for that when I installed a Parrot to get Bluetooth. That's exactly how the lighter and power outlets should operate based on the wiring diagram and the diagnostic procedure for retained accessory power. In fact, according to the manual, if another item on the same circuit does not work that way it's time to replace the RAP relay, and if that does not do the job, replace the BCM.

But, after my dealer went though the diagnostic and installed a new BCM, it also failed to drop power to the relay upon a door opening. And GM would rather not issue a BCM update to fix the problem, so they declared it a non-problem.

Or, as we [very sarcastically] say in the computer business, "Works as implemented".

So, the power outlets stay hot for about 15-20 minutes until the overall power save kicks in and the car goes pretty much to sleep except for the Remote Control Receiver.

The radio power remains hot at door open. What shuts the sound off is a message on the network that tells the radio to go silent.

The run/acc fuse supplies power only while the car is in run or acc; when you stop the car it goes off.

Given your circumstances, I'd suggest hooking your bluetooth to the lighter/power sockets, but add a switch so you can kill the power when you actually are are going to get out of the car. (Hmmm, a contact/pressure switch in the seat, which opens when your, uh, posterior, is no longer in the seat???)
 
Thanks for your help. I'm hoping to find a source which does stay live with the radio after ignition is off before the door is opened, Ill post what I find or make.

Had an opportunity to check it out tonight. The power to my radar detector turns off and on with the ignition switch. No RAP at that point on back of the mirror. Before that I hooked the detector up to the same circuit as the visor vanity lights. It stayed on after power was turned off and I assumed that it would shut off after the RAP timed out in 10 minutes or so, but at times it never turned off and ran my battery down. I wasn't too happy about that so I moved it to the switched power circuit on the back of the mirror. No problems since then.
 
Wiring

Which wires/pins did you tap for your radar detector? I'm trying to do the same, and thought I had the right ones identified with my multimeter, but fried my radar detector instead...:mad:

Had an opportunity to check it out tonight. The power to my radar detector turns off and on with the ignition switch. No RAP at that point on back of the mirror. Before that I hooked the detector up to the same circuit as the visor vanity lights. It stayed on after power was turned off and I assumed that it would shut off after the RAP timed out in 10 minutes or so, but at times it never turned off and ran my battery down. I wasn't too happy about that so I moved it to the switched power circuit on the back of the mirror. No problems since then.
 
Which wires/pins did you tap for your radar detector? I'm trying to do the same, and thought I had the right ones identified with my multimeter, but fried my radar detector instead...:mad:

this
wireslabelled.jpg
is from a vette forum. should work for you, compare the wire colors before attaching.
 
Already Saw This

Ya, I already saw that pic before attempting. The wires are all different colors going into the mirror despite the harness being the same shape. Pin 4 on the bottom does not provide switched ignition voltage on my car.

Side question, how much resistance is near enough to zero when measuring for a ground? Looking for a real world ohm reading...

airmike;532 74 said:
this
wireslabelled.jpg
is from a vette forum. should work for you, compare the wire colors before attaching.
 
Here's the wiring descriptions out of the manual. Looks like pink would b the switched hot. Black is usually ground to answer your previous question which it shows in diagram.
With doing a resistance test put the meter on ohms. Touch your leads together, mine beeps and shows a decimal reading. But see what it reads shouldn't be much if anything. Good meter and leads will have none.
 
What model year?

What at model year is that service manual for? I've found something similar on another forum that shows '05 with different colors. I have an '06.

Here's the wiring descriptions out of the manual. Looks like pink would b the switched hot. Black is usually ground to answer your previous question which it shows in diagram.
With doing a resistance test put the meter on ohms. Touch your leads together, mine beeps and shows a decimal reading. But see what it reads shouldn't be much if anything. Good meter and leads will have none.
 
It's a 04 manual. You should be able to use a test light, cycle the ignition which will be a pain and use the colors as reference. Black gonna be ground either way go for a red,orange,pink for the power? Grays,yellows and strips are usually secondaries,or signals. Good luck
 
What at model year is that service manual for? I've found something similar on another forum that shows '05 with different colors. I have an '06.

This is from the '06 Service Manual. I hope this helps. :dunno:

Mike
 

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I made that harder than it needed to be

:bash: In the end, the ground (#8 - all blk) and ignition 1 voltage (#13 - blk/pink) pins are the same, but the wire colors are different than even the '06 manual info above - maybe there is a V vs. Base difference?

I found this "tool" (drawer knob) to be quite helpful in pulling out the plug - that bastard really sticks in there and there is nothing to grab onto (screwdriver, pliers, mashed fingers, and cursing were all unpersuasive). I used the lip of the screw head to catch onto the top of the latch.
photo 3.JPG

The first is a pic of the wire colors from the top, the second from the bottom. The view is from the back, so reverse left/right when comparing to the diagram above. You can see the differences in the colors for yourself, the ignition wire is pink/blk, not red/blk for me.
This seems like a stupid point to make, but the ignition wire - as name implies - will not supply voltage in accessory on mode, only with engine actually running - which makes voltage testing in a garage a bit of a problem. :( I will also point out that the courtesy lamp supply voltage (#6 blk/orange for me too) will power a device with 12 volts, but does not turn off (even after the 20 min timeout) and will eventually drain the battery.
photo 1.jpgphoto 2.jpg

As luck would have it, I did not actually fry my radar, :beerchug: but simply blew a fuse with my first unsuccessful attempt.
Live and learn... looks clean now!

This is from the '06 Service Manual. I hope this helps. :dunno:

Mike
 
The lighter/power sockets will stay on for 20 minutes after the last door close, although the service manual diagnostics indicate they should shut off with a door open like the radio. Clearly a BCM programming error, but Cadillac refuses to fix it.

My power socket never shuts down.
 
See what alittle determination will get yah. Good job. With the courtesy lamps your able to turn on at anytime that's why theirs always power there. I would think you only want power going to the radar when the car is running anyways.
Funny when looking for the diagram of the wiring I saw rear view mirror lamp replacement,and it showed pics of replacing bulbs. Which I thought wasn't possible? I remember someone saying that you can't service the bulbs?:confused:
 
Service Manual

For those that have a service manual (showing the pinout of the rearview mirror), what section of the manual is "Stationary Windows" in? I ask b/c I got my hands on an electronic version a while back, but it is split into 60 or so pdf files by section, and I can't seem to find this info. Closest I can find is "Doors" and "Interior Trim", but these don't have what I was looking for.
 
BCM Fault

My power socket never shuts down.

This could also possibly be a BCM hardware issue, not a software one in your case. I have seen circuit boards fry a single soldering point such that the board is still operable but loses a particular function - not that you would want to spend the money on a new bcm for this issue, but possibly worth inspecting the board for singe marks if you are still under warranty.

I'm reminded of an old exploder :laugh: where the headlights would not turn off because the "auto-off" circuit board had a failing solder point.
 
See what alittle determination will get yah. Good job. With the courtesy lamps your able to turn on at anytime that's why theirs always power there. I would think you only want power going to the radar when the car is running anyways.
Funny when looking for the diagram of the wiring I saw rear view mirror lamp replacement,and it showed pics of replacing bulbs. Which I thought wasn't possible? I remember someone saying that you can't service the bulbs?:confused:

Stella,do you remember what page showed replacement of the bulbs? Thanks,Al:cool:
 

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