problems on Denver trip

[mtrocket]

Ok... we stopped in Casper, WY for the night. I'm in the car waiting for Cindy to come out of the hotel, and the DIC says, "Reduced Engine Speed" and "Service Stabilitrak"; I'm sitting idling. Next morning, after a good night's sleep, the car runs great all the way to Denver. On the way to dinner on Friday night, the same thing happens, this time while driving in traffic. I take it to the dealership in Denver on Saturday, they pull the code as P2135 and tells me I need a new throttle body and seal, which they do not stock. The next morning, all is well once again. On the way home on Sunday, Cindy is driving, all of a sudden the car just dies and won't restart; it had been running fine since we left Denver. About 5 minutes of sitting, the car restarts and runs fine all the way to Billings, except the airbag light is now lit. I pull codes once we get to Billings, P2135 which says Throttle position sensor/switch, 1-2 correlation and CO242 of which I cannot find any meaning. Is the throttle position sensor the same as the throttle body? I didn't think they were the same thing. Not sure what to think of CO242.... does CO242 have something to do with the airbag light being on or not. Additionally, tonight when we took it to dinner, the DIC kept saying "Charge System Fault" although the voltage reading is the same as it's ever been. What's up??? Anybody have some insight into any of these???

 

[fcarga]

How old is your battery? Today's cars are hard on batteries and can create a multitude of seemingly unrelated problems.
My limited experience with "bad" thottle bodies is that they go to "reduced power" and stay there and/or fail to start or run.
If you have the battery checked, make sure that they "load" test it instead of just checking with a voltmeter; the same applies
to buying a new battery. Good luck!

 

[05 GRAND DADDY]

Which brings a question of which are the best batteries for these cars since they need a good strong one.
What kind amps,volts & brand is recommended??


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[WB6BBZ]

Ok... we stopped in Casper, WY for the night. I'm in the car waiting for Cindy to come out of the hotel, and the DIC says, "Reduced Engine Speed" and "Service Stabilitrak"; I'm sitting idling. Next morning, after a good night's sleep, the car runs great all the way to Denver. On the way to dinner on Friday night, the same thing happens, this time while driving in traffic. I take it to the dealership in Denver on Saturday, they pull the code as P2135 and tells me I need a new throttle body and seal, which they do not stock. The next morning, all is well once again. On the way home on Sunday, Cindy is driving, all of a sudden the car just dies and won't restart; it had been running fine since we left Denver. About 5 minutes of sitting, the car restarts and runs fine all the way to Billings, except the airbag light is now lit. I pull codes once we get to Billings, P2135 which says Throttle position sensor/switch, 1-2 correlation and CO242 of which I cannot find any meaning. Is the throttle position sensor the same as the throttle body? I didn't think they were the same thing. Not sure what to think of CO242.... does CO242 have something to do with the airbag light being on or not. Additionally, tonight when we took it to dinner, the DIC kept saying "Charge System Fault" although the voltage reading is the same as it's ever been. What's up??? Anybody have some insight into any of these???

Rod,
I would first check the battery connections for looseness and/or corrosion.
IMO, the type of mechanical connections for the battery cables on our cars are about the worst I've ever seen!
I check mine every 3 months since having to replace the OEM batteries twice in the first two years of ownership and replaced the second one with a Sear's Diehard in 09.
I haven't had any battery problems since!

 

[Phrede]

Which brings a question of which are the best batteries for these cars since they need a good strong one.
What kind amps,volts & brand is recommended??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks Dan

I went with a yellow top Optima and solved my battery problems. Since I drive (and start) only in summer months I chose the yellow over the red top. It is better handeling the parasitic load our cars are known for.

 

[Stella]

Ok... we stopped in Casper, WY for the night. I'm in the car waiting for Cindy to come out of the hotel, and the DIC says, "Reduced Engine Speed" and "Service Stabilitrak"; I'm sitting idling. Next morning, after a good night's sleep, the car runs great all the way to Denver. On the way to dinner on Friday night, the same thing happens, this time while driving in traffic. I take it to the dealership in Denver on Saturday, they pull the code as P2135 and tells me I need a new throttle body and seal, which they do not stock. The next morning, all is well once again. On the way home on Sunday, Cindy is driving, all of a sudden the car just dies and won't restart; it had been running fine since we left Denver. About 5 minutes of sitting, the car restarts and runs fine all the way to Billings, except the airbag light is now lit. I pull codes once we get to Billings, P2135 which says Throttle position sensor/switch, 1-2 correlation and CO242 of which I cannot find any meaning. Is the throttle position sensor the same as the throttle body? I didn't think they were the same thing. Not sure what to think of CO242.... does CO242 have something to do with the airbag light being on or not. Additionally, tonight when we took it to dinner, the DIC kept saying "Charge System Fault" although the voltage reading is the same as it's ever been. What's up??? Anybody have some insight into any of these???

Sounds like this is what everyone dreads with these cars "intermittent electrical glitches". Your throttle body and throttle position sensor are two different parts. Funny how each time it threw different codes. Yes load test battery,but u said it died abruptly didn't start then started five mins. later. That would say that your batt. has enough power to start just it somehow died mechanically or lost power. Cars run off the alternator once started your battery is to start your car and for accessories. Check alternator condition,connections going to battery,and I would check grounds on chassis for the ECM,etc. As for the throttle body and sensors did you possible get some bad gas? Sounds like a vacuum" gasket" leak and the throttle position sensor is out of whack. Hopefully it's just a battery let us know and good luck!

 

[hawkeye372]

When I was down in Daytona couple yrs ago I had my Honda crv. It didn't turn over one time. But after awhile it did. Then I drive it for awhile, parked it then got back in. Tried to start it again. But the battery cable was loose. Found this After taking it to the Honda dealer in Daytona. I just had the oil changed a couple days before. So I think they didn't tighten the cables from the battery. That was the 2nd time I had something go wrong after a service at the local Honda dealer.


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[05 GRAND DADDY]

Sounds like this is what everyone dreads with these cars "intermittent electrical glitches". Your throttle body and throttle position sensor are two different parts. Funny how each time it threw different codes. Yes load test battery,but u said it died abruptly didn't start then started five mins. later. That would say that your batt. has enough power to start just it somehow died mechanically or lost power. Cars run off the alternator once started your battery is to start your car and for accessories. Check alternator condition,connections going to battery,and I would check grounds on chassis for the ECM,etc. As for the throttle body and sensors did you possible get some bad gas? Sounds like a vacuum" gasket" leak and the throttle position sensor is out of whack. Hopefully it's just a battery let us know and good luck!

Back in the day we would check an alternator by unhooking a battery cable if it stay running it was working!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks Dan

 

[Crimson Pearl]

Throttle Position Sensors can fail intermittently. The one on my Tahoe started exhibiting problems a few months back. It would throw a code and result in "Reduced Engine Power". You could disconnect the battery cable and it would reset and run fine for 20 miles or so and suddenly fail again.

Fortunately, I had received a letter from GM explaining that this type of failure would be covered since they had seen quite a few failures with this type of sensor. I had placed the letter in the glove box and when this started happening, I took it to my local Chevrolet Dealer from who I had purchased all of my Tahoes (a different dealer than where I purchased my XLR).

They read the codes and replaced the TPS device. They called me and when I asked how much the repair was, they said about $1100. I mentioned the letter and the service consultant said he would check into that. When I arrived at the dealership to pick it up, there was no charge, it was covered by the letter!

On the subject of batteries, I installed an Odyssey AGM battery. There is a thread here detailing the selection and installation of the Odyssey AGM in Crimson Pearl.

 

[Phrede]

Back in the day we would check an alternator by unhooking a battery cable if it stay running it was working!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks Dan

Back in the day ...... we used to advance the ignition with a lever.

 

[mtrocket]

Throttle Position Sensors can fail intermittently. The one on my Tahoe started exhibiting problems a few months back. It would throw a code and result in "Reduced Engine Power". You could disconnect the battery cable and it would reset and run fine for 20 miles or so and suddenly fail again.

Fortunately, I had received a letter from GM explaining that this type of failure would be covered since they had seen quite a few failures with this type of sensor. I had placed the letter in the glove box and when this started happening, I took it to my local Chevrolet Dealer from who I had purchased all of my Tahoes (a different dealer than where I purchased my XLR).

They read the codes and replaced the TPS device. They called me and when I asked how much the repair was, they said about $1100. I mentioned the letter and the service consultant said he would check into that. When I arrived at the dealership to pick it up, there was no charge, it was covered by the letter!

On the subject of batteries, I installed an Odyssey AGM battery. There is a thread here detailing the selection and installation of the Odyssey AGM in Crimson Pearl.

The dealership here says it's the TPS... where is this item on the XLR? The dealership wants $124 for the part and about an hour labor; probably something I can do myself. About the Charging system failure, they tell me the horn is shorting out and keeps popping the fuse. Shortly after I completed the rebuild, my horn shorted out. I haven't had a horn since; what would make the horn suddenly blow fuses? Anyway, they want $111 for the horn and, again, about an hour labor. Again, this is something I could probably do myself. In fact, I could probably get a horn out of a salvage yard; after all, all Cadillac horns sound the same, right???

 

[mtrocket]

Dealership said it's the throttle body on the engine that is erratic. I found a horn off a Eldorado (salvage yard) that will probably wire right in with no problem. The airbag light is on because of the connector under the seat not making good connection. It's really odd, I move the seat forward, the light goes out, I move the seat back, the light comes on. The tech put some dielectric grease in the connector but it still goes on & off intermittently. At a different dealership, the parts counter man told me the same thing happens on his Tahoe, one of the techs told him to unplug and plug the connector several times to break the corrosion off the connector. A new connector is $80... guess I'll try the unplug/plug method first.

 

[05 GRAND DADDY]

Back in the day ...... we used to advance the ignition with a lever.

Yep! Been there done that!! LOL.....


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[XFireXLR]

Had a similar issue and my tech found a bulletin that state the air inlet may be "out of round" and not sealing properly. My Tech removed the air inlet tube and reinserted it and I have not had a issue with the OEM inlet tube, I have since installed the Volant CAI.