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replacing roof tonneau cover actuator

gulflyer

Active Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2011
Messages
32
Location
Fort Walton Beach, FL
My XLR/V(s)
2007 XLR-V
When I cycle my roof up and down the right side actuator that moves the tonneau cover in and out leaks like crazy. The left side actuator looks like it's starting to leak as well. Has anyone attempted to replace this actuator? I hate to give the car to the dealer, their service is terrible.
 
Hydraulic cylinder replacement is pretty straight-forward if you aren't all thumbs. Having a shop manual makes it a lot easier. I'd print the procedure, but they're copyrighted and I'm severely allergic to courtrooms and jail cells. If you don't have a shop manual, they're really worth the price and can pay for themselves with a single repair job.

1. Place the top in the stowed position.
2. Open the Bypass valve to equalize the supply and return side.
3. Cover the stowed top and nearby body panels. (See episodes of "Dexter" for details of how to do it thoroughly.)
4. Remove the spring clip from the lower cylinder retaining pin.
5. Remove the retaining pin.
6. Remove the upper cylinder retaining spring clip.
7. Slide the cylinder off the link.
8. Don't cycle the cylinder rod or you'll have a big mess on your hands . . and car.
9. Make sure the top hasn't been operated for at least five minutes and the ignition is OFF.
10. Unscrew the hydraulic reservoir filler plug.
11. Using a small, flat-bladed screwdriver, remove the retaining clip from one of the hydraulic lines on the cylinder.
12. Use a rag to clean up any leaking oil. Keep the removed line as high as possible. (You might want to have an assistant help with that part.)
13. Remove the hydraulic line's O-ring.
14. The replacement cylinders are pre-filled with oil, so you want to keep their plugs installed until it's time to connect the hydraulic lines. You'll need to order replacement clips and O-rings for the hydraulic lines. The lines press into place and the clips keep them there.
15. Repeat steps 11-14 for the other hydraulic line.
16. Install new O-rings on the hydraulic lines. Press each into the cylinder and re-install the (new) retaining clips.
17. Re-install the hydraulic oil reservoir plug.
18. Install the upper cylinder retaining clip.
19. Install the cylinder lower retaining pin and clip.
20. Turn the Bypass valve clockwise.
21. Cycle the roof a few times with the engine running. Have someone press the Top Control Switch while you eyeball the vicinity around the replaced cylinders for leaks.
22. Enjoy a cold one - you earned it. Marvel at the labor rates you saved yourself!
23. Repeat step 22 as necessary.

CC :wave:
 
Last edited:
That all seems pretty straightforward. Thanks for the quick reply - you are the man!! Step 22 will be closely adhered to.
 
CC. I just want to thank you for all you do here. I wish we were closer together. I would like to have you to the boat for a few step 22's.
 
roof tonneau actuator

CC, can you direct us to the section where we would find the description in the shop manual, please. Mine is not handy while I am on vacation, so I will save the tip. I track this site, wherever I am. Sort of an xlr junkie.

Thanks CC
Rusty '06 V



Hydraulic cylinder replacement is pretty straight forward if you aren't all thumbs. Having a shop manual makes it a lot easier. I'd print the procedure, but they're copyrighted and I'm severely allergic to courtrooms and jail cells. If you don't have a shop manual, they're really worth the price and can pay for themselves with a single repair job.

1. Place the top in the stowed position.
2. Open the Bypass valve to equalize the supply and return side.
3. Cover the stowed top and nearby body panels.
4. Remove the spring clip from the lower cylinder retaining pin.
5. Remove the retaining pin.
6. Remove the upper cylinder retaining spring clip.
7. Slide the cylinder off the link.
8. Don't cycle the cylinder rod or you'll have a big mess on your hands . . and car.
9. Make sure the top hasn't been operated for at least five minutes and the ignition is OFF.
10. Unscrew the hydraulic reservoir filler plug.
11. Using a small, flat-bladed screwdriver, remove the retaining clip from one of the hydraulic lines on the cylinder.
12. Use a rag to clean up any leaking oil. Keep the removed line as high as possible. (You might want to have an assistant help with that part.)
13. Remove the hydraulic line's O-ring.
14. The replacement cylinders are pre-filled with oil, so you want to keep their plugs installed until it's time to connect the hydraulic lines. You'll need to order replacement clips and O-rings for the hydraulic lines. The lines press into place and the clips keep them there.
15. Repeat steps 11-14 for the other hydraulic line.
16. Install new O-rings on the hydraulic lines. Press each into the cylinder and re-install the (new) retaining clips.
17. Re-install the hydraulic oil reservoir plug.
18. Install the upper cylinder retaining clip.
19. Install the cylinder lower retaining pin and clip.
20. Turn the bypass clockwise.
21. Test the roof.
22. Enjoy a cold one - you earned it. Marvel at the labor rates you saved yourself!
23. Repeat step 22 as necessary.

CC :wave:
 
Sure thing Rusty!

Here's your fix to keep that XLR monkey off your back: (It's from the '04 manual, so your mileage may vary.)

The procedure for the rear tonneau is in section 8 (Roof) starting on page 8-754, entitled, "Folding Top Storage Compartment Panel Hydraulic Cylinder Replacement - Rear"

Enjoy your vacation!

CC
:wave:
 
Astonishing

You amaze me CC!

I have been following you on both the Cadillac forum site and this one since I bought my car and am always amazed at your grasp of the technical intricacies of these incredible machines.

Between you and Bruce we will all have the luxury of telling the dealers guys what to do. They are much better at the heavy lifting as long as they know where to lay the load down.

Again...Thank you, thank you, thank you.
 
(snip) ... If you don't have a shop manual, they're really worth the price and can pay for themselves with a single repair job. (snip)
CC :wave:
CC, where do you suggest I order a shop manual for my 2008 XLR-V? I've been having the odd hickup with my top not going back up lately and would like to try and troubleshoot it myself. Cheers, Bill
 
Thanks for the link CC. Is your set 3 volumes or 4? I see both on eBay ads.

Next question ... where is the best place to buy a Tech 2 scanner?
A quick search found these, which I think are in China.

Code:
http://www.chinacardiag.com/wholesale/gm-tech2-gm-diagnostic-scannerworks-for-gm-saab-opel-suzuki-isuzu-holden-1011.html?gclid=COue3_WT878CFU82aQodqUQADw

Code:
http://www.buyobdtool.com/wholesale/high-quality-gm-tech2-gm-diagnostic-scanner-1362.html

Code:
http://www.obdiiscanner.com/professional-tool/gm-tech-2.html

Cheers, Bill
 

Attachments

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Last edited:
Thanks for the link CC. Is your set 3 volumes or 4? I see both on eBay ads.

Next question ... where is the best place to buy a Tech 2 scanner?
A quick search found these, which I think are in China.

Code:
http://www.chinacardiag.com/wholesale/gm-tech2-gm-diagnostic-scannerworks-for-gm-saab-opel-suzuki-isuzu-holden-1011.html?gclid=COue3_WT878CFU82aQodqUQADw

Code:
http://www.buyobdtool.com/wholesale/high-quality-gm-tech2-gm-diagnostic-scanner-1362.html

Code:
http://www.obdiiscanner.com/professional-tool/gm-tech-2.html

Cheers, Bill

My 2008 Service manual has 4 volumes. My Chinese clone Tech 2 works just fine.
 
My (2004) shop manuals came in a two-volume set. Each is about three inches thick.

As for the best place to pick up a Tech 2. . . The preferred seller is the one that gives you the best value for the money. Prices and quality vary, so it pays to really shop around online to feel comfortable with the prices being asked before you commit. Clones abound, and as long as they have the latest 32M card updates, you should be okay. It isn't like you'll be using it every day, (hopefully) but if you can find one for a few hundred bucks, it should pay for itself in a couple of years. I searched online for over a year before I found one at a price I could live with. Because they're obsolete, (having been replaced by a newer, PC-based system at GM dealerships) they've dropped in price considerably over the last couple of years. I think you'll have a lot of fun exploring the innards of your car with it.

Good luck!

CC :wave:
 
Thanks for the info guys. Much appreciated. Cheers, Bill
 
You might want to give Craigslist a check also on the tech2. See many for sale on there.
 

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