Help! Throttle body

[Superx894]

I have a real head scratcher. I have had repeated problems with my 2004 going into safe mode, getting service traction control message and just plain quitting. If I replace the throttle body it will go 800-900 miles with no problems. With my code reader I get a P2135 code. Any suggestions?

 

[GizmoQ]

I have a real head scratcher. I have had repeated problems with my 2004 going into safe mode, getting service traction control message and just plain quitting. If I replace the throttle body it will go 800-900 miles with no problems. With my code reader I get a P2135 code. Any suggestions?

The closest thing I could find was a thread in the HHR forum that tracked it back to a wring issue. One users recommendation:

dont crimp anything. you need the proper $100 crimper to do it right first of all and secondly, soldering the terminals, and simply lubing them with some Nye760G or GM dielectric grease that comes in tub (NOT in tube...the lube is paramount) will solve 95% of all P2135 codes related to wiring issues, about 4% of them will actually require new ECM terminals, and the remaining 1 in 100 actually has a broken wire in the harness

There is a special tool necessary to remove the pins in order to solder them, but its way cheaper than the crimper.

I would say use electrical contact cleaner on the terminals. Blow them dry with compressed air. Then do the Dielectric grease. If that doesn't fix it, buy the pin removal tool, solder the pins and add the dielectric grease.

Hope this helps.
Giz

 

[cubby558]

I'll check my manuals tonight when I get home to see if there is anything on P2135 code.

Are you using a TECH-II to get this code??

 

[Stella]

The manual says the ECM detects that the difference between tp sensor1 and sensor2 is more than the predicted value. It also says the action taken when p2135 are set and they are exactly what your experiencing. It looks like sensor 1 and 2 work together to read throttle plate and accommodate accordingly. If you have a digital multimeter take resistance tests on the sensors they should be between 0-5 ohms. Sensor1 should go from 0-5 and sensor2 should go from 5-0. They read opposite of each other. If your values are off there's your problem,if not could be a loose connection to ECM or the accelerator pedal position sensor2. I would get some quality di electric grease and start with connections and sensor conditions. Hope u figure it out good luck.

 

[cubby558]

Sorry I'm late, just got home. Stella is correct, my only question is this the only code that sets. The MIL will turn off after three ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail. Also if you do find the problem and correct it, you still need a TECH-II to clear the code out. The TECH-II will also read the history from the control module, which stores the information in Freeze frame and/or the Failure records. Good luck with your problem. Let us know how you correct it, for future reference for others.

 

[Superx894]

Thanks for the help. I have a throttle position sensor (accelerator assembly) to put on if I can get my rather large body contorted to do it. Any advice on an easier way to install it? I will also clean the contacts and put the grease on them. I'll post results.

Thanks again!

 

[GizmoQ]

Thanks for the help. I have a throttle position sensor (accelerator assembly) to put on if I can get my rather large body contorted to do it. Any advice on an easier way to install it? I will also clean the contacts and put the grease on them. I'll post results.

Thanks again!

Keep in mind it could be the contacts on either end of the harness: TB or ECM.

 

[Superx894]

Where is the ECM located?

 

[graytoad]

hope this helps

Where is the ECM located?

Not exactly awealth of info but I do have this document I saved.

BTW: What Color/model do you have?!

 

[Stella]

If I'm not mistaken its in the drivers front wheel well like behind the xlr badge on the fender. Their are a couple modules there. You access everything by taking the inner fender out.

 

[Superx894]

Thanks for all the help. I have a black, 2004 base. I'm thinking with the ECM being in the fender well it might be the contact there. Before I bought the car it was in an accident on that side of the car

 

[cubby558]

ECM Location

The ECM is mounted on the right side of the dash above where the passengers feet would be.
The lower panel will need to be removed to see it.
Here is the service manual procedure to remove it.

1. Turn ignition to "OFF".
2. Disconnect battery ground cable.
3. Remove right hand hush panel.
4. Disconnect connectors from the ECM
5. Remove ECM mounting hardware.
6. Remove ECM from the passenger compartment.
7. Remove ECM access cover.
8. Transfer PROM unit to replacement ECM. Using two fingers, push both retaining clips back away from the PROM. At the same time, grasp it at both ends and lift it up out of the socket. Do not remove the cover of the PROM. Use of unapproved PROM removal methods may cause damage to the PROM or socket.
9. Remove new ECM from its packaging and check the service number to make sure it is the same as the defective ECM.
10. Remove access cover.

Note: These are instructions for changing the ECM

Where is the ECM located?

 

[fcarga]

Just my 2 cents, I would think twice about trying to do this yourself unless you have some experience.
Another thing to check are the electrical "grounds"--they are a source of aggravation for Corvette owners and
can cause a multitude of strange and often intermittent problems. Good luck!

 

[Superx894]

I don't think I will try and solder contacts or change pins but I think I can clean the contacts without much trouble

 

[Stella]

I don't think I will try and solder contacts or change pins but I think I can clean the contacts without much trouble

Just remember don't bend any of the pins. Be very careful. If there isn't a sound connection you can amplify how much resistance is in the circuit. Which is what you trying to eliminate. Good luck.