I found out today I have a broken height adjustment bolt as well.
Does anyone know where to get a replacement part without buying the entire spring assembly?
I would like to keep the ride height stock. Re-reading above, would it be ill-advised to use an aftermarket corvette "lowering bolt" but then adjust it up stock ride height?
Just thought I would share my experience for the benefit of others. I decided to order the hardbar replacements (hardbarusa), which haven't come in quite yet. I called and they said the bolts were long enough to maintain stock ride height on the corvette, but weren't sure about the XLR.
It turns out the bolts provided are too short, I will have to find a M14x2.0x60 MM (or longer) full thread stainless bolt from a specialty fastener shop. I'm not really happy with the hardbar part though. I basically paid $60 for two plastic caps, since I have to get my own bolts. I might look for a different one with polyurethane like the stock bolts.
As many corvette owners and I experienced, the ride height adjustment bolt was badly seized - i bent a wrench and cracked a socket trying to get it off, and that was after soaking overnight in PB Blaster. I did some lurking on the vette forums and found a suggestion to soak the bolt in a 50/50 solution of 'Marvel Mystery Oil' and acetone. Marvel Mystery Oil is supposed to be some BS fuel additive, but let me tell you this solution REALLY WORKS for removing bolts!!!
For those that encounter the same issue I had (broken adjustment bolt), or simply want to swap out the bolts for lowering purposes, you will need disconnect several things from the lower control arm so that it hangs down freely - this creates enough space between the spiring and the LCA to remove the adjustment bolt, as the spring will not compress enough to this - unless maybe if you have the special spring compression tool. For the rear, you will need to disconnect the sway bar (if equipped), tie rod isn't necessary but helps to create space, ABS cord and ride height sensor arm to be safe of clearance issues, lower shock mount, and finally LCA (ball joint stud) to spindle (or knuckle) bolt. If your knuckle is badly frozen to the ball joint stud as mine was, also remove the caliper and rotor to create space so you can swing a BFH striking the part of the knuckle that surrounds the ball joint stud - striking the LCA downward is ineffective. Once the LCA is free to hang down (the two LCA to frame bolts can stay on), you have enough space to remove/replace the height adjustment bolt.
As always, be very safe when doing this kind of work, chalk the front wheels (as you will need the e-brake off to remove the rotor), use jackstands, and work on a level surface. You don't want any instability in the vehicle when swinging the BFH or torquing on that seized bolt.
Actually it was real easy take of the traction control. Mine does alot more than chirp i still have rubber on the inner fenders. The car has plenty of power or I need to get my leadfoot looked at.
in more than one way. Anytime
