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Wartless XM Installation Made EZ (04-05 Model Years)

ccclarke

Seasoned Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
1,032
Location
Uncanny Valley, New England
My XLR/V(s)
2013 Graphite Metallic XTS Platinum
Over the years, we’ve seen a lot of posts asking how to get satellite radio into 04 and 05 XLRs (without the side mirror-mounted diversity antennas) from folks who don’t want to drill into their rear decklids to install what is commonly known as the “wart” antenna. I’m not a big fan of warts, (genital, decklid, or otherwise) but I do like XM, so I thought I’d give it a go. The short answer is Yes; you can get XM without surgically altering your rear decklid if you have the factory-mounted receiver in place. It’s located behind the center console compartment and is accessed from the front by removing 4 Torx screws. It’s easy to do and will consume part of two afternoons, depending on your drinking habits.

Read the whole procedure first. A major part of it is optional. (The beer is not.)

You'll need the following tools:

A good flashlight; if unavailable, night vision goggles

A Torx T 15 screwdriver for removing the four screws retaining the center console rear storage compartment.

A half dozen tie wraps to secure cables.

A nylon trim tool for pushing the antenna cable where you want it without nicking it.

A coat hanger or stiff wire to fish the cable up to the center console storage compartment cavity.

Electrical tape or heat shrink, (to insulate cut cables -more on this later.)

Silicone RTV, to bond the adapter connectors in the XM receiver plug.

A set of dykes for cutting wire and tie wrap ends flush after tightening.

A major credit card. (In my book, it's a tool!)

Here’s how to do it:

1) Verify you have the factory XM receiver installed. You can open the trunk and see it mounted all the way forward, between the seats. It’s a little silver box about an inch or so thick, and around eight inches long. Or you can verify you have the U2K option, which is located on the little panel that covers the hidden storage compartment on the right side of the trunk.

2) Using the major credit card tool, order the following two parts from Crutchfield:

A Terk XM Micro2 XM Satellite Radio Car Antenna:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_209XMIC...lation&tp=1493

and a Terk XM-SP Adapter:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_209XMSP...r.html?tp=1493

3) While you’re waiting for your parts to arrive, drink a beer or have a glass of wine and open the trunk. It's time you started having the same kind of Big Fun I had.

4) Climb in, and wriggle forward on your back like you're passing under barbed wire in Army boot camp. Disconnect the light blue antenna input plug with two cables coming out of it on the (passenger) side of the XM receiver. While it’s possible to remove the plug from inside the vehicle after removing the rear center console storage compartment, it’s a major pain unless you’re a double-jointed circus performer, so it’s easier to just get into the trunk to pull it off the receiver. It's got a retaining clip on the top that you need to press before it will pull free of the receiver.

5) You'll need to either remove the metal connectors from the blue plug body while you lie in the trunk wondering why you didn’t have a second beer or glass of wine before you got this far, or cut the cables an inch or two from the plug, haul yourself out of the trunk and remove the metal connectors inside of it on a workbench with good light and that handy refreshment you were just day-dreaming about. However you do it, your goal is to remove the connectors and re-use the blue plug. Note how far forward the metal connectors were located in the plug to help in Step #7.

6) With heat shrink or electrical tape and a tie wrap or two, insulate and secure the old antenna wires and /or metal connectors out of the way. We don't want any rattles later. Now, kick back and wait for UPS to deliver your new antenna and adapter.

7) Once your new adapter arrives, you'll see a connector on one side (for your new antenna to plug into, and two little cables dangling from the other side. The goal in this step is to insert the two cables coming out of the new adapter into the blue plug you removed in Step 5. The adapter is a splitter, so it doesn’t matter which side of the plug body you install the cables into. Push them all the way in, (making sure they’re installed as close to the face of the plug body as they were in Step #5 . . . You DID note that, right!?) and apply some RTV or good exterior caulking around the back of the connectors to secure the connectors into the plug body. With a back and forth motion, use a toothpick to wick the silicone inside the connector body around the sides of the inserted connectors, but don’t get crazy here; all you need to do is bond the plugs into place. (Don't let any RTV get near the face of the plug!)

Allow your masterpiece to cure overnight. Don’t use epoxy, in case you need to remove them later on. The RTV or caulking is good enough to hold the plugs in place but easy to remove if you ever have to.

8) Antenna wire routing, --like seduction, is started from the top down. While you’re waiting for the silicone to set and cure, place the antenna on the fwd/center of the dash. The magnetic base will hold it securely in place.

9) The antenna has more than enough cable to hang every member of the Securities and Exchange Commission. You need to route said cable across the base of the windshield (there’s foam there, so it will stay in place if you use a thin, plastic trim tool to push it in (not a screwdriver!) If you puncture the cable, electrons will spill out and cause you to wet your pants every time you turn up the volume. Be patient and gentle (but firm.) This is electronics, not carpentry.

10) After it’s securely placed under the windshield, route the antenna cable down and under the plastic trim panel at the front of the door opening, and down to the lower inside trim panel that runs the length of the passenger side door, parallel to the XLR kick plate. Just tuck it under there and it should stay put.

11) Using the Torx T-15 screwdriver, remove the four retaining screws and pull the rear center console storage compartment out and set aside. Route the antenna cable under the bottom of the rear tub plastic behind the seat. I used a coat hanger to fish the cable/connector under the trim and up into the console storage compartment cavity. Don’t pull it too hard –you don’t want to damage the connector. Otherwise you have to repeat Step 2, and you really don't want to do that.

12) Route the connector up to the area where the blue XM receiver antenna plug resides, and loop up the remaining extra cable. Tie-wrap it to one of the chassis frame members out of the way. Rattles are bad. Tie wraps are good.

13) Re-install the rear console storage compartment and have another drink. At this point, you’ve probably earned it. If not, you will. Don't over-tighten the retaining screws.

14) When the modified adapter connector has cured and is ready to install, slide back into the trunk, and plug the adapter into the XM receiver, followed by connecting the antenna plug into the adapter. The hardest part is over! If you skipped the drink from Step 13, have at it now.

15) With a clear view to the South, tune to XM channel 1 to verify you’re getting a good signal path. If you’re not getting anything, you either didn’t make a good connection, don’t have a clear path, or drank more than this procedure called out. Trust but verify that you didn’t cut a wire or get a good connection when you plugged everything together. If you drank too much and are having trouble with this procedure, increase the font size, wait two hours per drink, and seek adult supervision and have them read this to you. If you're wetting your pants for no apparent reason, see Step 9.

16) Tune to XM channel 0 and note your ID number. Call XM (800-852-9696) and they’ll gladly relieve you of some of your money in exchange for entering your ID number into their database.

17) With the car still facing South, tune to channel 1, and keep the radio on for 20 minutes. (You need to do this within 3 hours of subscribing.) Don’t mess with the tuner during this step while XM and your radio get intimately acquainted. After that, you should have full channel coverage! (I had to do this step twice to get the radio in sync.)

Before I routed the antenna cable, I positioned the antenna in different locations within the car to check if it would receive the test signal (XM Channel 1.) I was surprised at how transparent the roof was, but opted to keep it on the dash since the magnetic base works great there. I also oriented the car in different headings to see if the vehicle would block the signal to the dash-mounted antenna. There were no problems. If you have a steel plate in your head, you’ve got problems enough, but this could aggravate one more. When the connector has cured, you can connect everything, and experiment with the antenna placement location prior to permanently routing the antenna wire if you wish.

---If you're totally smashed or just all left thumbs at the point where you're supposed to pull the blue XM plug out of the receiver, remove the two imbedded connectors and replace them with the two from the new adapter, you can blow this off entirely and just plug the adapter cables straight into the side of the XM receiver, and tie wrap the blue plug out of the way. I wanted to make sure my adapter never came loose, so I chose to make it as close to the factory installation as possible.

I drove around for a few hours and had great reception except when I lost signal (LOS for you geeks like me out there) due to the dense forests we admire here in Washington. For those of you who haven't experienced that technological marvel that is XM, the quality of the sound varies from really good AM to so-so FM, depending on receiver type and your level of hearing loss. Your milage may vary.

Time for a cold one.

CC :wave:
 
Last edited:

b_pappy

Seasoned Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
588
Location
Northridge, CA
My XLR/V(s)
2005 XLR
Very well written, humorous & informative. Thanks for the info. Fortunately, my car does not warts, but she does have a dwarf dorsal fin. I guess it's best just to leave it there. Personally I feel XM has gone down a notch since the merger anyhow.
But thanks again for taking the time for a great write up.
Bruce (not the tech)
 

FLVGuy

Seasoned Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
Messages
269
Location
Dunedin, FL
My XLR/V(s)
2006 Lt Plat XLR-V, Midwest Marauder CFO
I agree about XM. The other day while I was driving home and listening I thought, "Why are these people talking?" I don't mind a brief informative intro on the classical stations, but the rest of the time I want "just the music." I would complain, but nobody listens. Guess I'll just let my subscription lapse. Back to CD's (BTW, I, too, was surprised that my XLR didn't have an ipod connection. Such a simple thing!)
 

standby-V

Seasoned Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2008
Messages
1,114
Location
Mesquite, NV
My XLR/V(s)
2004 Lt. Platinum & 2006 Lt. Platinum XLR-V
XM

I called XM and asked why they dropped Chrome and they said.
Phone conversation "No one listens to that silly stuff anymore.
I canceled my renewal coming up in June.
"What can we do to make you renew?"
"Bring back Chrome."
"Your renewal will be canceled in June."
They don't care, but they willlllllllllllll!:rocket:


I agree about XM. The other day while I was driving home and listening I thought, "Why are these people talking?" I don't mind a brief informative intro on the classical stations, but the rest of the time I want "just the music." I would complain, but nobody listens. Guess I'll just let my subscription lapse. Back to CD's (BTW, I, too, was surprised that my XLR didn't have an ipod connection. Such a simple thing!)
 

Redfernj

Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2014
Messages
6
Location
Puyallup WA
My XLR/V(s)
2005 XLR
XM Radio in 2005 XLR

Over the years, we’ve seen a lot of posts asking how to get satellite radio into 04 and 05 XLRs (without the side mirror-mounted diversity antennas) from folks who don’t want to drill into their rear decklids to install what is commonly known as the “wart” antenna. I’m not a big fan of warts, (genital, decklid, or otherwise) but I do like XM, so I thought I’d give it a go. The short answer is Yes; you can get XM without surgically altering your rear decklid if you have the factory-mounted receiver in place. It’s located behind the center console compartment and is accessed from the front by removing 4 Torx screws. It’s easy to do and will consume part of two afternoons, depending on your drinking habits.

Read the whole procedure first. A major part of it is optional.

You'll need the following tools:

A good flashlight; if unavailable, night vision goggles

A Torx T 15 screwdriver for removing the four screws retaining the center console rear storage compartment.

A half dozen tie wraps to secure cables.

A nylon trim tool for pushing the antenna cable where you want it without nicking it.

A coat hanger or stiff wire to fish the cable up to the center console storage compartment cavity.

Electrical tape or heat shrink, (to insulate cut cables -more on this later.)

Silicone RTV, to bond the adapter connectors in the XM receiver plug.

A set of dykes for cutting wire and tie wrap ends flush after tightening.

A major credit card. (In my book, it's a tool!)

Here’s how to do it:

1) Verify you have the factory XM receiver installed. You can open the trunk and see it mounted all the way forward, between the seats. It’s a little silver box about an inch or so thick, and around eight inches long. Or you can verify you have the U2K option, which is located on the little panel that covers the hidden storage compartment on the right side of the trunk.

2) Using the major credit card tool, order the following two parts from Crutchfield:

A Terk XM Micro2 XM Satellite Radio Car Antenna:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_209XMIC...lation&tp=1493

and a Terk XM-SP Adapter:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_209XMSP...r.html?tp=1493

3) While you’re waiting for your parts to arrive, drink a beer or have a glass of wine and open the trunk. It's time you started having the same kind of Big Fun I had.

4) Climb in, and wriggle forward on your back like you're passing under barbed wire in Army boot camp. Disconnect the light blue antenna input plug with two cables coming out of it on the (passenger) side of the XM receiver. While it’s possible to remove the plug from inside the vehicle after removing the rear center console storage compartment, it’s a major pain unless you’re a double-jointed circus performer, so it’s easier to just get into the trunk to pull it off the receiver. It's got a retaining clip on the top that you need to press before it will pull free of the receiver.

5) You'll need to either remove the metal connectors from the blue plug body while you lie in the trunk wondering why you didn’t have a second beer or glass of wine before you got this far, or cut the cables an inch or two from the plug, haul yourself out of the trunk and remove the metal connectors inside of it on a workbench with good light and that handy refreshment you were just day-dreaming about. However you do it, your goal is to remove the connectors and re-use the blue plug. Note how far forward the metal connectors were located in the plug to help in Step #7.

6) With heat shrink or electrical tape and a tie wrap or two, insulate and secure the old antenna wires and /or metal connectors out of the way. We don't want any rattles later. Now, kick back and wait for UPS to deliver your new antenna and adapter.

7) Once your new adapter arrives, you'll see a connector on one side (for your new antenna to plug into, and two little cables dangling from the other side. The goal in this step is to insert the two cables coming out of the new adapter into the blue plug you removed in Step 5. The adapter is a splitter, so it doesn’t matter which side of the plug body you install the cables into. Push them all the way in, (making sure they’re installed as close to the face of the plug body as they were in Step #5 . . . You DID note that, right!?) and apply some RTV or good exterior caulking around the back of the connectors to secure the connectors into the plug body. With a back and forth motion, use a toothpick to wick the silicone inside the connector body around the sides of the inserted connectors, but don’t get crazy here; all you need to do is bond the plugs into place. (Don't let any RTV get near the face of the plug!)

Allow your masterpiece to cure overnight. Don’t use epoxy, in case you need to remove them later on. The RTV or caulking is good enough to hold the plugs in place but easy to remove if you ever have to.

8) Antenna wire routing, --like seduction, is started from the top down. While you’re waiting for the silicone to set and cure, place the antenna on the fwd/center of the dash. The magnetic base will hold it securely in place.

9) The antenna has more than enough cable to hang every member of the Securities and Exchange Commission. You need to route said cable across the base of the windshield (there’s foam there, so it will stay in place if you use a thin, plastic trim tool to push it in (not a screwdriver!) If you puncture the cable, electrons will spill out and cause you to wet your pants every time you turn up the volume. Be patient and gentle (but firm.) This is electronics, not carpentry.

10) After it’s securely placed under the windshield, route the antenna cable down and under the plastic trim panel at the front of the door opening, and down to the lower inside trim panel that runs the length of the passenger side door, parallel to the XLR kick plate. Just tuck it under there and it should stay put.

11) Using the Torx T-15 screwdriver, remove the four retaining screws and pull the rear center console storage compartment out and set aside. Route the antenna cable under the bottom of the rear tub plastic behind the seat. I used a coat hanger to fish the cable/connector under the trim and up into the console storage compartment cavity. Don’t pull it too hard –you don’t want to damage the connector. Otherwise you have to repeat Step 2, and you really don't want to do that.

12) Route the connector up to the area where the blue XM receiver antenna plug resides, and loop up the remaining extra cable. Tie-wrap it to one of the chassis frame members out of the way. Rattles are bad. Tie wraps are good.

13) Re-install the rear console storage compartment and have another drink. At this point, you’ve probably earned it. If not, you will. Don't over-tighten the retaining screws.

14) When the modified adapter connector has cured and is ready to install, slide back into the trunk, and plug the adapter into the XM receiver, followed by connecting the antenna plug into the adapter. The hardest part is over! If you skipped the drink from Step 13, have at it now.

15) With a clear view to the South, tune to XM channel 1 to verify you’re getting a good signal path. If you’re not getting anything, you either didn’t make a good connection, don’t have a clear path, or drank more than this procedure called out. Trust but verify that you didn’t cut a wire or get a good connection when you plugged everything together. If you drank too much and are having trouble with this procedure, increase the font size, wait two hours per drink, and seek adult supervision and have them read this to you. If you're wetting your pants for no apparent reason, see Step 9.

16) Tune to XM channel 0 and note your ID number. Call XM (800-852-9696) and they’ll gladly relieve you of some of your money in exchange for entering your ID number into their database.

17) With the car still facing South, tune to channel 1, and keep the radio on for 20 minutes. (You need to do this within 3 hours of subscribing.) Don’t mess with the tuner during this step while XM and your radio get intimately acquainted. After that, you should have full channel coverage! (I had to do this step twice to get the radio in sync.)

Before I routed the antenna cable, I positioned the antenna in different locations within the car to check if it would receive the test signal (XM Channel 1.) I was surprised at how transparent the roof was, but opted to keep it on the dash since the magnetic base works great there. I also oriented the car in different headings to see if the vehicle would block the signal to the dash-mounted antenna. There were no problems. If you have a steel plate in your head, you’ve got problems enough, but this could aggravate one more. When the connector has cured, you can connect everything, and experiment with the antenna placement location prior to permanently routing the antenna wire if you wish.

---If you're totally smashed or just all left thumbs at the point where you're supposed to pull the blue XM plug out of the receiver, remove the two imbedded connectors and replace them with the two from the new adapter, you can blow this off entirely and just plug the adapter cables straight into the side of the XM receiver, and tie wrap the blue plug out of the way. I wanted to make sure my adapter never came loose, so I chose to make it as close to the factory installation as possible.

I drove around for a few hours and had great reception except when I lost signal (LOS for you geeks like me out there) due to the dense forests we admire here in Washington. For those of you who haven't experienced that technological marvel that is XM, the quality of the sound varies from really good AM to so-so FM, depending on receiver type and your level of hearing loss. Your milage may vary.

Time for a cold one.

CC :wave:


Well guess that means no XM for me...XM1 and XM2 don't show up when I dial through bands on the factory installed radio...if I have to drink a beer to install this...I would have everything backwards and reversed. Guess I will just stick with AM/FM
 

ccclarke

Seasoned Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
1,032
Location
Uncanny Valley, New England
My XLR/V(s)
2013 Graphite Metallic XTS Platinum
Well guess that means no XM for me...XM1 and XM2 don't show up when I dial through bands on the factory installed radio...if I have to drink a beer to install this...I would have everything backwards and reversed. Guess I will just stick with AM/FM

You can probably pick up a GM satellite receiver for cheap on eBay or thru a salvage yard if you want to go with an OEM system.

CCC :wave:
 

madcurl

Account Suspended
Joined
May 8, 2013
Messages
704
Location
CA
My XLR/V(s)
2007 XLR Infrared
I too unsubscribed

XM has gone from bad to worse since the merger. I've had both XM and Sirius for years, and I'm about to drop all my subscriptions. It's too bad - they both had some great strengths, but now they have almost as much annoying DJ chatter as commercial radio!

I repeatedly warned XM radio regarding their annoying DJ chatter throughout the song for the most part in the beginning and right before the song ends (which is sometimes the best part in most cases such as Heatwave's always and forever). Anyway, I tolerated for several more months until my subscription ended and I have never reactivated since.:D
 

ccclarke

Seasoned Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
1,032
Location
Uncanny Valley, New England
My XLR/V(s)
2013 Graphite Metallic XTS Platinum
I cancelled my ten-year subscription for the same reasons you cite. The "commercial-free" radio XM advertises is anything but. The "gotomypc.com" commercials were incessant. Too bad. XM was great when it debuted. The unequal AGC between Sirius and XM was another issue after they merged that got old really fast. Storing Gbytes of my personal tunes on a mobile device made XM (and CDs) obsolete.

Long live progress and innovation!

CC :wave:
 

madcurl

Account Suspended
Joined
May 8, 2013
Messages
704
Location
CA
My XLR/V(s)
2007 XLR Infrared
Temptation avoided

XM radio I've seen lately continues to send me those tempting special offers for $25 for six months. For those who do have XM has the DJ chattering stopped or or is it still going full-blown?
 

dennis93coupe

Seasoned Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Messages
174
Location
Orange County, California
My XLR/V(s)
2009 XLR-V Crystal Red with Ebony / Cashmere 1 of 6
XM radio I've seen lately continues to send me those tempting special offers for $25 for six months. For those who do have XM has the DJ chattering stopped or or is it still going full-blown?

They found out the previous owner canceled his xm before or after he sold it and somehow found out I bought it. So they gave me a free 90 day subscription. I was not impressed enough to buy it with all the commercials. Yesterday I get a letter in the mail telling me my 90 days will end very soon, (already have had a 90 day free trial)and I will need to send in an application or give them a card number on the phone. Checks and or money orders get charged a $2.00 a invoice fee for checks and money orders. Nah, I can live without paying for commercials.
 

05 GRAND DADDY

Seasoned Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2011
Messages
2,755
Location
South Central PA (Littlestown)
My XLR/V(s)
2005 Light Platinium Silver XLR
Yes they still chatter all the time and their annoying commercials are a about listens to their other XM stations also, and then depending where your at in a town, city or wooded areas the signal gets blocked then it's dead radio. I do not like the sound of the FM station I believe it's coming out of the small headrest speakers or I would just get rid of XM too and just listen to FM for free


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"
 
Joined
Jan 21, 2020
Messages
49
Location
N.VENICE, fl
My XLR/V(s)
2007
Nice write up.
I have a 2007 XLR that came with SiriusXM installed.
I had a pro swap out the OEM radio for a Kenwood DNX696S so I could have USB, NAV, Bluetooth, etc.
Also the OEM screen was shot.
The SiriusXM tuner isn't connected to the Kenwood..
The 2007 has antenna in the outside rear view mirrors.
Is there any way to connect the OEM tuner to the Kenwood ?
 

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