XLR Hacks

[Bakertech]

1. I had Trickle Charger/Battery problems last Winter. This Spring the trunk would unlatch when I opened the Drivers Door! Then the trunk started opening and closing with no key or person nearby.
I determined the Battery was dead and installed a new Premium one. Problem continued.
In desperation I unhooked the Battery for 2 weeks. Upon reconnection, everything has worked fine since. Perhaps the Computer re-booted or the 28 modules smartened up?
2. Often the inside button to open the Passenger door does not work. I have found that pressing the Unlock button on the Drivers door seems to make the button work!
3. I put a Choke cable from the Hood Latch to the inner fender well for quick access in case of dead Battery.
4. I ran a 10 ga. wire from the main fuse box battery connection to just beneath the front spoiler Marette cover. Quick access for boost or Battery Charger. That was before the Emergency Hood opener was installed.
5. Sometimes the Trunk Lid will not remain open. I found that cycling the top a couple times temporarily fixes that. Anyone have a cure?
6. Not pleased with the new Format here.
Question. Did XLR's come with drilled and slotted disc brake rotors?

 

[Gord]

Howdy!
Can't say I have an answer for point #1. I do hope the car is nice and dry - the last thing these need is any form of moisture!
Pretty much ditto for point #2. That door switch is relatively inexpensive and an easy fix. I'd hope the passenger door module isn't misbehaving as I do believe the driver's door module 'talks' to it.
Point #3 is a great modification - I've done similar as I'm sure many others have as well. I would rip out (point #4) the wire at least as a precaution. One less thing to short-out and potentially ignite your entire car!
Point #5: Sorry, no solution there either. I'd tend to suspect you may need to inspect the hydraulic pump for the top etc as perhaps it's bleeding pressure or the fluid isn't of good quantity or quality any longer.

Point #6: It's different, it does take a few posts to feel back at home. Rob has done a wonderful job keeping this ship afloat and while the format may be temporarily unfamiliar, maybe consider to concentrate on the content as it's as good as ever.

Drilled and slotted...never. XLR-V models came drilled and that's kind of a joke as they were only 'front' and 'rear' meaning they used the same rotors left or right, and that means one side (your choice) has the arc of the drilled holes going the wrong direction.

There's plenty of other brands of rotors available - drilled, drilled and slotted, slotted... just be wary of anyone selling 'identical to OEM' because if they are (a la V), they will indeed be 'one sided' so to say.

HTH!

Gord

 

[Bakertech]

Gord.
#2. I had checked into a new switch ( if available or corvette substitute) but it seemed like a great deal of work to remove the door panel, handles and wiring to get at it and I am not convinced that is the problem. It could be wiring or the door latch/lock itself. Perhaps a project for next year!
#4 I used Industrial Insulated (TWU) grade #10 red stranded wire and it is encased in 'snakeskin' and carefully routed. No danger of shorting out unless there is a serious crash on that corner.
#5 Inspecting the Hydraulic pump is a huge chore and requires specialty electronic equipment. I understand that replacement pumps are not available but that someone in Canada fixes them. Hopefully I will find out who.
My rotors have only 3 arced slots (indentations) on the face of the rotor. Approx 1/16" wide and deep. I was amazed at how narrow the rear rotor braking surface is.
I am not saying problems I have solved on my ride are Fixed, but they Work for the moment! Thanks for your comments.
Yes, I will get used to the new Format. Thanks Rob.

 

[mickeytee]

Top hydraulics is the only place to have a pump or cylinders rebuilt. Others do it but they are the masters. trunk is opened buy the pump but the long struts are what hold it up just like the hood.

 

[RDwilkerson]

1. I had Trickle Charger/Battery problems last Winter. This Spring the trunk would unlatch when I opened the Drivers Door! Then the trunk started opening and closing with no key or person nearby.
I determined the Battery was dead and installed a new Premium one. Problem continued.
In desperation I unhooked the Battery for 2 weeks. Upon reconnection, everything has worked fine since. Perhaps the Computer re-booted or the 28 modules smartened up?
2. Often the inside button to open the Passenger door does not work. I have found that pressing the Unlock button on the Drivers door seems to make the button work!
3. I put a Choke cable from the Hood Latch to the inner fender well for quick access in case of dead Battery.
4. I ran a 10 ga. wire from the main fuse box battery connection to just beneath the front spoiler Marette cover. Quick access for boost or Battery Charger. That was before the Emergency Hood opener was installed.
5. Sometimes the Trunk Lid will not remain open. I found that cycling the top a couple times temporarily fixes that. Anyone have a cure?
6. Not pleased with the new Format here.
Question. Did XLR's come with drilled and slotted disc brake rotors?

Point #5 Trunk hold open struts are gone need to replace. Amazon.com : 2005 Cadillac xlr trunk struts

 

[Bakertech]

Thanks for the Response. I found that the Lock-Unlock switch on the Drivers door needed to be toggled a couple times before the Passenger door would unlock when it would not do so normally. I may try replacing the trunk struts but I don't think they really hold the trunk in the open position. Leak down of the cylinders is my guess. Since I have the 4 volume service manuals I should get in some reading. Thanks again. What length TRUNK struts are required for a 2008 XLR?

 

[RDwilkerson]

Thanks for the Response. I found that the Lock-Unlock switch on the Drivers door needed to be toggled a couple times before the Passenger door would unlock when it would not do so normally. I may try replacing the trunk struts but I don't think they really hold the trunk in the open position. Leak down of the cylinders is my guess. Since I have the 4 volume service manuals I should get in some reading. Thanks again. What length TRUNK struts are required for a 2008 XLR?

It is not the cylinders; the struts hold it until the pressure is reversed from the cylinders. I know from my own experience btw there are some small screws near the top of the metal lift brackets you have to remove to get enough up to lock in the shocks. It is a t screw on both sides remove them and it will allow you to raise the mech enough to pop the top of the strut on. There is a post on this forum. must read replacing trunk lid struts.

 

[Bakertech]

Thanks for that very helpful tip on the Torx RD. I will look for the Trunk Strut replacement video. Hopefully it is not buried too deep.

 

[RDwilkerson]

Thanks for that very helpful tip on the Torx RD. I will look for the Trunk Strut replacement video. Hopefully it is not buried too deep.

It is not a Video it is part of this forum " must read replacing trunk lid struts".Once replaced you will notice a huge differance in the trunk and no more droping unless you tell it to. The struts are so easy to replace can be done start to finish in less than 20 minutes. Keep in mind that you will need ether a additional person to hold the trunk up while you change them or a prop, handle or pipe. I was able to do it myself and used a stick to assist. Once the screws are removed use a flat head screw driver and slide it behind the spring behind the knickle of the strut (and reinstall will require the same) then wiggle the lid up and down to free the shock. Both sides will require access to the bottom driver side the carpeted pump cover and the pass side the storage bin. You will need a slender flat head screw driver to hold the spring open in the storage bin when in place remove the screw driver to lock it in place. be sure to reinstall the torq screws you removed as they are a travel limit stop and if not there could cause damage in the operation of the opening trunk and mechanism. By the way this information came from that huge service manuel you mentioned. I can not be sure if the drilled and slotted were available then but I put them on mine just because I wanted to and the rears were grinding on the rotors so I decieded to do all fours and using ceramic pads (less dust)! Do some on line shopping to save.

 

[Bakertech]

Thanks very much RD. I will go about getting new struts somewhere. Do you have a GM #? What length are they?

 

[RDwilkerson]

Thanks very much RD. I will go about getting new struts somewhere. Do you have a GM #? What length are they?

Look up 2008 struts Amazon has them Just did a little investigation and appears that all the trunk struts fit 2004-2009 they are all the same.

 

[XLRATING]

Howdy!
Can't say I have an answer for point #1. I do hope the car is nice and dry - the last thing these need is any form of moisture!
Pretty much ditto for point #2. That door switch is relatively inexpensive and an easy fix. I'd hope the passenger door module isn't misbehaving as I do believe the driver's door module 'talks' to it.
Point #3 is a great modification - I've done similar as I'm sure many others have as well. I would rip out (point #4) the wire at least as a precaution. One less thing to short-out and potentially ignite your entire car!
Point #5: Sorry, no solution there either. I'd tend to suspect you may need to inspect the hydraulic pump for the top etc as perhaps it's bleeding pressure or the fluid isn't of good quantity or quality any longer.

Point #6: It's different, it does take a few posts to feel back at home. Rob has done a wonderful job keeping this ship afloat and while the format may be temporarily unfamiliar, maybe consider to concentrate on the content as it's as good as ever.

Drilled and slotted...never. XLR-V models came drilled and that's kind of a joke as they were only 'front' and 'rear' meaning they used the same rotors left or right, and that means one side (your choice) has the arc of the drilled holes going the wrong direction.

There's plenty of other brands of rotors available - drilled, drilled and slotted, slotted... just be wary of anyone selling 'identical to OEM' because if they are (a la V), they will indeed be 'one sided' so to say.

HTH!

Gord

I agree on bless Rob for keeping this forum going. I often wish there was a way to download the whole thing and keep it forever … so much of a goldmine here.