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Broken Console Cover

rexster314

Seasoned Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2015
Messages
1,548
Location
West Columbia, Texas
My XLR/V(s)
2006 Base Infrared (SOLD)
The X is going to the shop tomorrow for the broken shift linkage but thought I'd putter around with the broken console cover hoping I'd figure out how to repair it instead of springing for a replacement console. Anyway, first off was to remove the shift knob and console plate. You have to remove the power supplies which are all quick connect and I was taking the lid/console inside to my work bench. Here's a picture of the rear console cover with pins that have not broken off.
 

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Here's the pic of the broken end. I've already used JB Weld to reattach the smaller guide pin. I found almost all the broken pieces once I removed the cup holder and console plate.

20151122_120509.jpg
 
Here's a pic showing both pins reattached with JB Weld. I'll be letting this stuff cure overnight before attempting to put all back together.

20151122_123507.jpg
 
After a few minor setbacks I've got the console back together and all is working as it should. The soft close and open works and after a few shims it's even with the fixed wood plate on the shifter side. I had to make new screw bolsters on the outside edge as the old ones were completely broken off.
It was worthwhile just to see if I could get it repaired. Knowing how the plastic is (old) it could last a few days to years.
Certainly worth trying and saved 900$ as well. (as if I was going to spend that much)
 
Actually, the whole assembly is only around $500, but you still saved lots of money.

CC :wave:
 
you got patience!!
my suggestion would be to skip using the cupholder, forever;)
i dont eat or drink in the X anyway.
i do like to stop at mcdonalds in the ghost though,the folding tray tables make dining on the road so much easier.
grey poupon with mcnuggets is delectable.
 
Well, my fix to the cupholder lid went belly up. Not the lid itself and the repair I did to the guide pins, but the guide slots that are a part of the cupholder that I repaired just didn't hold up. However, I have a built-in search on eBay for Cadillac XLR stuff, and couple of days ago I found a top console cover with working lid that appears to be eucalyptus wood for 99$ w/free shipping. So I bought it. Seller has a 14 day return policy so if it doesn't pan out I'm just out for the return shipping. But I believe I can use the cupholder portion. The aluminum trim is sorta beat up, but I'm not going to use the entire console anyway.
It's just one of those things that bug me when it doesn't work properly.
 
Well, my fix to the cupholder lid went belly up. Not the lid itself and the repair I did to the guide pins, but the guide slots that are a part of the cupholder that I repaired just didn't hold up. However, I have a built-in search on eBay for Cadillac XLR stuff, and couple of days ago I found a top console cover with working lid that appears to be eucalyptus wood for 99$ w/free shipping. So I bought it. Seller has a 14 day return policy so if it doesn't pan out I'm just out for the return shipping. But I believe I can use the cupholder portion. The aluminum trim is sorta beat up, but I'm not going to use the entire console anyway.
It's just one of those things that bug me when it doesn't work properly.

I have a needle sized dent in my aluminum trim piece next to the traction control switch. It's annoyed me from day one. " how did they even do that" I think. I've seen it on many that I've looked at. My question is with that console you think you can try and rub one of the dents out from the back to see if it can be done.:dunno:
I've wanted to try but in fear of breaking some clip or tab just disassembling it. :(
 
From what I've seen, that aluminum skin on the console is attached with some kind of adhesive that you may or may not be able to remove the trim from the plastic frame without damaging the aluminum trim. I've had my console cover off so many times futzing with the folding lid, I hardly need any tools other than my torx driver to remove the set screw on the shift knob. I'll update this when the piece comes in next week.
 
You're right about the cladding on the front and center console surfaces. They're very thin, exceptionally prone to dents, dings, when anything heavier than a finger strikes them. The adhesive that secures them to the plastic ensures you can't fix them, only replace them. Maybe a body shop could pneumatically pull an indentation out. Apparently, this design was approved by an executive who found out an XLR beta-tester was having an affair with his wife, so he cursed all subsequent drivers.


CC :wave:
 
From what I notice, looking at the few XLRs for sale I sat in, it seems the glue lets go in some places and now the cladding can be dented. When it's tight against the plastic it takes much more force to dent.

Every XLR I looked at you could press on the cladding and feel it wasn't glued to the plastic, and they had little dents.

You're right about the cladding on the front and center console surfaces. They're very thin, exceptionally prone to dents, dings, when anything heavier than a finger strikes them. The adhesive that secures them to the plastic ensures you can't fix them, only replace them. Maybe a body shop could pneumatically pull an indentation out. Apparently, this design was approved by an executive who found out an XLR beta-tester was having an affair with his wife, so he cursed all subsequent drivers.


CC :wave:
 
You're right about the cladding on the front and center console surfaces. They're very thin, exceptionally prone to dents, dings, when anything heavier than a finger strikes them. The adhesive that secures them to the plastic ensures you can't fix them, only replace them. Maybe a body shop could pneumatically pull an indentation out. Apparently, this design was approved by an executive who found out an XLR beta-tester was having an affair with his wife, so he cursed all subsequent drivers.


CC :wave:

Has anyone tried the stick-on brushed stainless covers that American Car Crafters makes? They look nice in their photos. Only glitch I see is that once you adhere them, they're there to stay and can't be removed without also pulling off the original cover I would guess.
 
Has anyone tried the stick-on brushed stainless covers that American Car Crafters makes? They look nice in their photos. Only glitch I see is that once you adhere them, they're there to stay and can't be removed without also pulling off the original cover I would guess.

I've looked at them, but to me they look like a shiny scab. :lol:
 
One's I've seen are not shiny - they are brushed stainless with polished edge/trim. sure looks better than thin dented aluminum I've seen. Just my opinion.


Satin/brushed might be better, all the ones I've seen are admittedly on eBay and they've been polished stainless.
 
I have a needle sized dent in my aluminum trim piece next to the traction control switch. It's annoyed me from day one. " how did they even do that" I think. I've seen it on many that I've looked at. My question is with that console you think you can try and rub one of the dents out from the back to see if it can be done.:dunno:
I've wanted to try but in fear of breaking some clip or tab just disassembling it. :(

My eBay console cover came in yesterday, not in bad shape at all, but some small scratches on the aluminum trim that I didn't care about as I'm still using my original cover. The cup holder part is perfect condition and lid had some very light scratches that I've already buffed out. Forget about disassembling the aluminum skin from the plastic frame. I've attached some pictures of what it looks like underneath. The stuff is virtually crimped on and any attempt to remove it will be FUBAR. And there's no way to access the skin from
the back side unless you grind out the plastic underneath first.
2016-01-16 18.37.23.jpg2016-01-16 18.36.51.jpg2016-01-16 18.36.20.jpg
 
That's no good!:( thanks for checking though. :thumbsup What material is it looks something composite or maybe aluminum? I guess I'm gonna have to live with it. Thanks again:thumbsup
 
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