"Service Ride Control" and top not working

[charrlesvr]

Greeting Charles!

Man, I miss living in Poulsbo!! I'll return to WA in a few years.

The Folding Top Control module requires programming via a Tech 2 or similar scan tool. The programming doesn't take long at all, so it's a lot cheaper to have a dealer perform the labor than buying a scan tool that you may not get a lot of use out of--depending on the reliability of your vehicle.

CC

Hello again C3, come back soon... So you can help me with my X. LOL... Anyways, I don't trust the dealerships around here. I just ordered a T2 so I can diagnose her at any time. I may be hitting you up when it arrives if I cannot figure it out. LOL. From what I have read, I noticed I can program new key fobs too. Awesome. Talk at toy soon.

 

[ccclarke]

Good to hear you're getting a Tech 2; you'll be amazed by the amount of information you can pull out of your XLR. I you don't already have them, I recommend obtaining a set of factory service manuals; they're a requirement to get the most out of your new scan tool. There's minimal information in the manuals as to how to configure the Tech 2; it's assumed you already know how, but it isn't too difficult.

I had great experiences with the Hazelwood Auto Group in Bremerton after they consolidated the Cadillac dealership into a single GM entity, though it's a bit of a drive from Olympia. The Cadillac dealer in Fife. . . not so good, but they have had more than enough time to get their act squared away since I moved. I'm in the Seattle area several times a year to visit family and friends, so one of these days we may cross paths.

Don't hesitate to post any Tech 2 questions when you start checking it out.

CC

 

[Mister D]

The 2 modules I replaced were the Body Control Module and Top module of which got wet. They will need to be reprogrammed withe a tech II. Took me about 10 min to replace both in the wheel well. However now my pump is also bad. The 15 hrs you got quoted includes replacing the man harness which is not available any way.

My dealer is in Georgetown, TX Don Hewlitt.

Hi Dfuser,
You had sated that 15 labor hours is what the LABOR OPS GUIDE says for a big job including the main harness. My specific question is this FOR AN '04 XLR. I just need a good way to INDEPENDENTLY verify what's "Fair". Can anyone share with me the number of labor hours "suggested" in the LABOR OPS GUIDE (LOG) for the replacement (and programming if necessary) of modules in the module bay located in the trunk as follows. BTW, I have it on very good authority that the LOG represents the time for a job with "difficulties", not an EZ job. Nonetheless, the LOG estimate could serve as an upper reference point:

- LABOR TO REPLACE Ride Control Module 10348979:
- LABOR TO REPLACE Trunk Module 25840734:
- LABOR TO REPLACE Pump Kit 88958028:
- LABOR FOR DIAGNOSIS of the above 3 items if not already included above

Thanks a lot,
Mister D

 

[dfuser]

Hey C3, its been a long time. I just replaced my 2 modules and the ride control 'just works' so that is great. The hard top module however doesn't respond. Prior to replacing it, it did just continue to run so I disconnected it and didn't mess with it until I got the new module. If I understand a couple places I have read, I will need to take it in to the dealer to get programmed? Is this something I can do myself or buy a computer or something to do? I did check all my fuses, connections, and even unplugged the battery for over an hour. Thanks for your help in advance.

Charles in Olympia WA

It has to go through a learning process with the tech II. Once that is complete then it will work. My problem on mine the pump was also bad, and after replacing the pump I cant get it to engage the hydraulic cylinders to open the trunk. It comes on just nothing moves.

 

[dfuser]

Hi Dfuser,
You had sated that 15 labor hours is what the LABOR OPS GUIDE says for a big job including the main harness. My specific question is this FOR AN '04 XLR. I just need a good way to INDEPENDENTLY verify what's "Fair". Can anyone share with me the number of labor hours "suggested" in the LABOR OPS GUIDE (LOG) for the replacement (and programming if necessary) of modules in the module bay located in the trunk as follows. BTW, I have it on very good authority that the LOG represents the time for a job with "difficulties", not an EZ job. Nonetheless, the LOG estimate could serve as an upper reference point:

- LABOR TO REPLACE Ride Control Module 10348979:
- LABOR TO REPLACE Trunk Module 25840734:
- LABOR TO REPLACE Pump Kit 88958028:
- LABOR FOR DIAGNOSIS of the above 3 items if not already included above

Thanks a lot,
Mister D

It took me 2 hours to replace the 2 modules and the pump by myself. It really was very easy to do. One hour to program, so when I asked the dealer about the 15 hrs, they said it included replacing the main harness which is not even available anyway.

 

[Mister D]

It took me 2 hours to replace the 2 modules and the pump by myself. It really was very easy to do. One hour to program, so when I asked the dealer about the 15 hrs, they said it included replacing the main harness which is not even available anyway.

Many thx Dfuser,
Your personal experience along with the BeardBros provides me with 2 XLNT points of reference. That being said, I still need to find someone with the Labor Ops Guide (LOG) because when I quote info directly from the LOG to the dealer, it will difficult for the dealer to justify how their labor bid could any higher. ANYBODY OUT THERE HAVE ACCESS TO THE L.O.G. ?
Thx again,
Mister D

 

[Mark]

Hydronic pump rebuild

Hi can somebody give me the name or site address of the company in Oregon that rebuilds hydronic pumps for 400.00 dollars? Thank you. Very much mark 04 black xlr.

 

[dfuser]

Hi can somebody give me the name or site address of the company in Oregon that rebuilds hydronic pumps for 400.00 dollars? Thank you. Very much mark 04 black xlr.

Klaus Witte

Top Hydraulics, Inc. 3235 Pacific View Dr.
Florence, OR 97439
(541) 902 3214www.tophydraulicsinc.com

 

[Mister D]

Awesome svc and tech support from Top Hydro ! Very quick turn around ... these are in stock so ok to do core exchange $850 - 300 core exchange = $550 net plus $20 shipping. EZ to DIY if desired too. Just had it done thru my dealer (for labor only) saving me HUGE vs $1965 Delco Pump with lesser warranty! Top Hydro warranty is 3 years vs Delco 1 yr ! go to tophydraulicsinc.com for extremely well documented web site with diagrams and photos.

 

[Mister D]

Hey Yo !!! [FONT=&quot]ALL DONE !!! Finally got my '04 XLR back from Tustin Cad in Calif. It was $2,765 with the tax to replace the 3 modules (susp, trunk, and pump) and I had to provide the recond. pump from Top Hydro (another $550 + 20 shipping =$570) so grand total was just over $3,335 ... NOTE: it would have been an add'l $1,200 if I had used a brand new GM pump but FYI, the fully reconditioned GM pump from Top Hydraulics in Oregon was actually better than new (better seals and workmanship w/ 3 yr warranty!) and was available on the spot with the core return option ... and I got my $300 core deposit back within one day![/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]NOTE: Contrary to what we have read on this thread, my Caddy dealer was able to get me a susp module within 2 days ... just sayin' ... parts cost was $755.

ALSO, I have just performed several H2O leak prevention steps as described in 2 TSBs. Nothing like a little piece of mind: TSB #07-08-57-003A and TSB #05-08-57-005B. I could try to upload them if anyone is unable to access them otherwise.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]FYI ... MY XLR IS NOW FOR SALE AT $34,933. 3 photos attached. Only ​
32,000 miles, one owner, very strong engine, well maintained with Mobil 1, non-smoker, mostly no passenger, no pets, never seen snow, near pristine condition except for a couple scratches here and there. Plus it has 3 brand new modules (Ride Control Module, Trunk Module and Pump). I will also include a partially used XLR tire since we once had to replace a damaged tire and decided to replace the matching pair at the same time. It was always garaged except for the first part of this year when there was a little (ahem) rain.

Thanks again to all the great support from the XLR Forum Fastcats. AWESOME !

Mister D
San Clemente, CA

[/FONT]

 

[mickeytee]

ride module

I believe they told me they got that one from another dealer. They told me about 2 weeks ago they had one on order. there are about 50 of them out there at present for sale so I hope people will get good deals and not get ripped off. I have a couple I will hang onto I just got for 425 from a dealer

 

[KevinJ62]

Good Morning All! XLR newbie here. Just picked up a Platinum 2005 XLR with 8400 original miles [one owner] up in Indianapolis over Father's Day weekend and have already fallen victim to the dreaded clogged drain scenario. Getting the Service Stability Control error message and the top and truck have to be operated manually. Has anyone attempted to do the 'cellphone in the swimming pool' rice trick with their modules? I've got a box full of desiccant bags that could, theoretically, get them bone dry again. Just curious if it has been attempted. Thanks!

 

[long Tall Sally]

I think every trick has been tried over the years but it never hurts to try again.

 

[rexster314]

Idea is sound, but the saying "water and electronics don't mix well" will hold true, I'm afraid

 

[KevinJ62]

I'm afraid you're most likely right. I'm getting a new one, popping the original [drowned] in the desiccant box. Check it in a couple months. If it works, I've got a back-up. If not, I've got a core.

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

I have the rear of my '04 on jack stands in preparation to change the rear shocks. On the driver's side, near the rear bumper, is the drain for the module "cubby" in the trunk. I spied the root of all evil, as I'm an appliance repair guy: The factory used a fitting we call a "duck bill" on the bottom of the drain. It's best to clear this problematic piece of plastic from the bottom. The idea in the conceptual phase was that the weight of water in the "cubby" would open this fitting and allow water to flow out, then seal itself back up, like a pair of lips. Problem is, those lips are behind your driver's side tire and all kinds of stuff gets flung up at it and it pretty much seals itself. Mine had small rocks and dirt in it. In the appliance world, the manufacturer's solution was to apply an "s-bend" drain trap, since they exist on refrigerators to allow defrost water out so it can evaporate. Imagine what happens when they clog - it's a full-time job. In this case, I'd just make sure to check and clear the thing periodically. It probably wouldn't even hurt to snip the end of the "lips" off so there's a slight gap that any water could easily flow out of. I'd be more afraid of retained water than any dust/dirt that might get in, since the ventilation system is usually on "fresh" air and is looking to force air out of the cabin through any available place as it is. Just my $.02.

John B.

 

[long Tall Sally]

you will find from any other post, people just remove that drain rubber completely.

 

[KevinJ62]

I have the rear of my '04 on jack stands in preparation to change the rear shocks. On the driver's side, near the rear bumper, is the drain for the module "cubby" in the trunk. I spied the root of all evil, as I'm an appliance repair guy: The factory used a fitting we call a "duck bill" on the bottom of the drain. It's best to clear this problematic piece of plastic from the bottom. The idea in the conceptual phase was that the weight of water in the "cubby" would open this fitting and allow water to flow out, then seal itself back up, like a pair of lips. Problem is, those lips are behind your driver's side tire and all kinds of stuff gets flung up at it and it pretty much seals itself. Mine had small rocks and dirt in it. In the appliance world, the manufacturer's solution was to apply an "s-bend" drain trap, since they exist on refrigerators to allow defrost water out so it can evaporate. Imagine what happens when they clog - it's a full-time job. In this case, I'd just make sure to check and clear the thing periodically. It probably wouldn't even hurt to snip the end of the "lips" off so there's a slight gap that any water could easily flow out of. I'd be more afraid of retained water than any dust/dirt that might get in, since the ventilation system is usually on "fresh" air and is looking to force air out of the cabin through any available place as it is. Just my $.02.

John B.

Interesting! Yep, sounds like bad engineering! I work on F-15 Eagles, and they also have areas that are suseptible to water so they designed in drain paths. As they drain out the bottom of the aircraft via tubes, they have the tubes [metal] cut at an angle facing aft [back] that creates a vortex essentially sucking out the water. Thinking of snipping the tube to the same spec. I talked to Klaus at Top Hydraulics yesterday. He suggested drilling another 1/4" hole in the box towards the backside of the box. Doing that too. Thanks for the input!

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

you will find from any other post, people just remove that drain rubber completely.

That's what I do at work. Show it to the customer and tell them that the ten cent part just cost them $130 for a service call. I just present it a bit more diplomatically.

John B.

 

[KevinJ62]

Sorry for the dumb question but I haven't got a repair manual yet. Where would the fuses for the retractable top [pump] and stability control module be located? I'm still holding out hope that they [modules might be okay.