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Fuel gauge stuck at 2/3 full

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My XLR/V(s)
2004 Light Platinum, President, "Midwest Marauders"
I think I know the answer to this, but....

My fuel gauge has been stuck at 2/3 full for the last 400 miles. Oddly, there is no DTC currently set.

I plan on looking at the fuel sending unit readouts closely to figure out if (or which) tank has a faulty unit (if that is indeed the problem). Does anyone have any experience with this issue? Could it be a bad connector? Has anyone replaced the fuel level sensing unit(s) on their own? I'm aware of the complexity of doing it on my own, but I'd tackle it.

Most of the online searches I've done mention the fuel gauge at 0 rather than 2/3, which leads me to believe I might have an entirely different issue. Or do I?

I'm aware of the issue of a faulty board for the gauge sending unit, which, I would guess, is the issue, but I've been unable to find anything definitive as to if it's the drivers side or passengers side that has the issue.

Any input is appreciated. Thank you!
 
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Same issue last summer...

I had the same issue last summer... My tank would be filled but wouldn't register any higher than 3/4 and with vehicle still under warranty Schepel Cadillac went to work and afterwards found problem to be minor. I was told periodically (About every 6 months or so) to add a bottle of the GM fuel system treatment. Don't know if you suffer the same faite but once that was done I had no more issues.



I think I know the answer to this, but....

My fuel gauge has been stuck at 2/3 full for the last 400 miles. Oddly, there is no DTC currently set.

I plan on looking at the fuel sending unit readouts closely to figure out if (or which) tank has a faulty unit (if that is indeed the problem). Does anyone have any experience with this issue? Could it be a bad connector? Has anyone replaced the fuel level sensing unit(s) on their own? I'm aware of the complexity of doing it on my own, but I'd tackle it.

Most of the online searches I've done mention the fuel gauge at 0 rather than 2/3, which leads me to believe I might have an entirely different issue. Or do I?

I'm aware of the issue of a faulty board for the gauge sending unit, which, I would guess, is the issue, but I've been unable to find anything definitive as to if it's the drivers side or passengers side that has the issue.

Any input is appreciated. Thank you!
 
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Yes sir...

That was it... And this was last July and no more issues with it since. Afterward I went on "Ebay" and ordered a couple bottles for the garage shelf just in case, you know? Also I think there's also a fuel/treatment ratio to consider and you might want to give it a chance to work itself into your system and clean things up a bit before adding more.


I have added one bottle of the fuel treatment - I may have to try another one... or two! Is that all the dealer had to do to fix your problem?
 
This very problem resulted in an unmitigated disaster for us last Christmas Eve outside of Nashville in 18 degree weather. If not for Onstar and the Williamson co sheriff's department it could have been very serious.

I went back to the very beginning on every XLR site available and found that although its not common, it happens.

I found a suggestion from 2007 to use Techron additive to solve the problem rather than a very expensive fix. My quote from our local dealer was $1,600 to replace the sending unit. The part alone was more than $400.

After the fifth fillup with Techron the gauge released. I couldn't be happier.

As a backup I reset my Trip B odometer on the DIC with every fillup. With a 22.5 mpg average I calculate 360 miles between full and empty. I always refill my tank at 250 miles to make sure I never have to replay that Christmas Eve movie again.

BTW...I had activated a trial subscription with Onstar just a few days before this all happened. What they did for us that very difficult night was absolutely amazing. I will NEVER be withhout the basic Onstar package again.
 
The 'unmitigated' disaster resulted from a stuck gauge level on the regular instrument panel. So I relied on my 'range' readout on the DIC which showed 83 miles until empty. I decided to push on to the next exit 7 miles away by incorrectly trusting the DIC reading. The car literally shut completely down instantly when it ran out of fuel. The gauge reading definitely affects the DIC 'range' reading!

No warning, no sputtering, nothing.

Try that at midnight on an isolated stretch of a recently opened highway on Christmas Eve.

Be advised...be VERY advised.
 
That is great advice! Thankfully, I noticed it immediately and set the trip odometer so I'd have an idea as to how far I could go and didn't have any issues. I'd already had enough trouble on the trip. One of my run flats got a VERY big hole in it. I now know that they really can go about 50 miles after losing all of the air, though it does sacrifice the tire. I encountered a Wal-Mart with GREAT techs in their tire and lube department. Suffice it to say that the tire they sold me was cheap ($100 mounted) but it's getting replaced ASAP with another run flat, and a new set of TPMS, since mine are 10 years old.
 
That is great advice! Thankfully, I noticed it immediately and set the trip odometer so I'd have an idea as to how far I could go and didn't have any issues. I'd already had enough trouble on the trip. One of my run flats got a VERY big hole in it. I now know that they really can go about 50 miles after losing all of the air, though it does sacrifice the tire. I encountered a Wal-Mart with GREAT techs in their tire and lube department. Suffice it to say that the tire they sold me was cheap ($100 mounted) but it's getting replaced ASAP with another run flat, and a new set of TPMS, since mine are 10 years old.

Just curious Rich... with a lot owners going to non run-flats, what do you think would have happened to your XLR had you not had run flats???
 
I certainly wouldn't have driven 50 additional miles on a non run flat! :lol: It wasn't a blowout, so I would have been able to safely get to the side of the road to call for service. There wouldn't have been any collateral damage to the car.

It was nice to have the ability to drive somewhere to get it fixed rather than wait at the side of the road for service. A can of Slime (or some other product) would NOT have worked for the large puncture I had.

There is a lot of debate on the topic of run flats - I personally like them. I've had a few instances where I've had a small puncture and felt very comfortable driving home to fix the tire. And Bridgestone is coming out (early May) with a new runflat that will fit our cars and cost only about $200 (and they have great treadwear and a great warranty). I'm probably going to give those a shot (Hello, Costco!). I love the Michelins but I don't get many miles out of a set; I'm happy with the Goodyears I'm currently running, but they are getting hard to find for some reason... and they are expensive!
 
Music to my ears....

I certainly wouldn't have driven 50 additional miles on a non run flat! :lol: It wasn't a blowout, so I would have been able to safely get to the side of the road to call for service. There wouldn't have been any collateral damage to the car.

It was nice to have the ability to drive somewhere to get it fixed rather than wait at the side of the road for service. A can of Slime (or some other product) would NOT have worked for the large puncture I had.

There is a lot of debate on the topic of run flats - I personally like them. I've had a few instances where I've had a small puncture and felt very comfortable driving home to fix the tire. And Bridgestone is coming out (early May) with a new runflat that will fit our cars and cost only about $200 (and they have great treadwear and a great warranty). I'm probably going to give those a shot (Hello, Costco!). I love the Michelins but I don't get many miles out of a set; I'm happy with the Goodyears I'm currently running, but they are getting hard to find for some reason... and they are expensive!


I too tested the waters here on the site and by the time it was all said and done I was even more confused about wether or not to change to non-run flats so I took the safe road and stayed with them and after reading your post I'm glad I did... And I am so looking forward to the May debut of the new Bridgestone run-flat... Can't wait to have new rubber on my baby.
 
After much thought on this issue, I decided to look for the ground connection on the rear of the car. I found it - it is on the frame behind the drivers side rear tire toward the rear of the vehicle. I pulled the tire off and removed/cleaned/replaced the ground connector, and the gas gauge immedicately moved to just a little over 1/2 full (I also checked it with the scan tool I have). I'm hoping that's what the problem was.

The connector wasn't terribly corroded, and everything else that I assume is connected to it worked fine (fuel pump and controller?). Maybe they take more current and were able to overcome it? Time will tell.....
 
After much thought on this issue, I decided to look for the ground connection on the rear of the car. I found it - it is on the frame behind the drivers side rear tire toward the rear of the vehicle. I pulled the tire off and removed/cleaned/replaced the ground connector, and the gas gauge immedicately moved to just a little over 1/2 full (I also checked it with the scan tool I have). I'm hoping that's what the problem was.

The connector wasn't terribly corroded, and everything else that I assume is connected to it worked fine (fuel pump and controller?). Maybe they take more current and were able to overcome it? Time will tell.....

The ground points are known to be problematic. This was one reason for my roof problems. Good luck.
 
Techron is in Chevron Gas for free.:blinzel:
This very problem resulted in an unmitigated disaster for us last Christmas Eve outside of Nashville in 18 degree weather. If not for Onstar and the Williamson co sheriff's department it could have been very serious.

I went back to the very beginning on every XLR site available and found that although its not common, it happens.

I found a suggestion from 2007 to use Techron additive to solve the problem rather than a very expensive fix. My quote from our local dealer was $1,600 to replace the sending unit. The part alone was more than $400.

After the fifth fillup with Techron the gauge released. I couldn't be happier.

As a backup I reset my Trip B odometer on the DIC with every fillup. With a 22.5 mpg average I calculate 360 miles between full and empty. I always refill my tank at 250 miles to make sure I never have to replay that Christmas Eve movie again.

BTW...I had activated a trial subscription with Onstar just a few days before this all happened. What they did for us that very difficult night was absolutely amazing. I will NEVER be withhout the basic Onstar package again.
 
Do you really think the amount of Techron in a tankful (20 gals) of Chevron gas is the same as using the 20 ounces of a bottle of Techron added to spot gas at a refull? Given the cost of 20 oz of Techron ($12.00), I think the cost of a tankful of Cheveron would be prohibitive in the marketplace if it contained the same amount of Techron. Of course Since Techron is a product of Chevron the cost to them would be less, but I don't think it would be comparable in density to 20 oz per tankful.

Techron is in Chevron Gas for free.:blinzel:
 
Not sure I do know, do you know how much it takes to do the job? Is 20oz. overkill? I'm not a chemist so I don't think I'm qualified to go any deeper in this conversation. All I did was offer the information to those in need, I wasn't looking for a argument. I think the 100 degree heat is effecting everyone's testosterone, including mine.
Do you really think the amount of Techron in a tankful (20 gals) of Chevron gas is the same as using the 20 ounces of a bottle of Techron added to spot gas at a refull? Given the cost of 20 oz of Techron ($12.00), I think the cost of a tankful of Cheveron would be prohibitive in the marketplace if it contained the same amount of Techron. Of course Since Techron is a product of Chevron the cost to them would be less, but I don't think it would be comparable in density to 20 oz per tankful.
 
Ha, I was not being confrontational, intentionally at least. Just adding another data point.
No offense intended.

Rusty

Not sure I do know, do you know how much it takes to do the job? Is 20oz. overkill? I'm not a chemist so I don't think I'm qualified to go any deeper in this conversation. All I did was offer the information to those in need, I wasn't looking for a argument. I think the 100 degree heat is effecting everyone's testosterone, including mine.
 
20 oz....?

Not sure I do know, do you know how much it takes to do the job? Is 20oz. overkill? I'm not a chemist so I don't think I'm qualified to go any deeper in this conversation. All I did was offer the information to those in need, I wasn't looking for a argument. I think the 100 degree heat is effecting everyone's testosterone, including mine.


Last summer when mine suffered the same issue it was a mere 20 ounces added to the tank via the dealer and yes indeed it did the trick... I was advised to do this approximate once a year or so.
 
I try and fill up at shell all the time. So far I haven't noticed any problems


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
fuel gauge

I have never had that problem but I do get a stuck temperature gauge once in a while, can I pour some of that on my nav screen? :laugh:
Last summer when mine suffered the same issue it was a mere 20 ounces added to the tank via the dealer and yes indeed it did the trick... I was advised to do this approximate once a year or so.
 

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