Help! Interior Passenger Door opening switch only works sometimes?

[Bakertech]

Passenger Door Release Switch only works sometimes!

Anyone have repair info?

Thanks.

 

[ccclarke]

This points heavily toward the switch being bad, or an intermittent connection in its path to its door control module.

Having a Tech 2 would make isolating the cause a five-minute, beer-less job, but since you don't, you'll need to take the door trim panel off and measure the operation of the Door Latch Release Switch with a multi-meter to prove the part is actually bad, then replace it, and put the whole thing back together. You'll need beer and trim removal tools to do this job, plus the usual hand tools, and an in/lb-capable torque wrench.

Because it's a fairly simple job requiring no power tools or exposure to lethal voltages, it's recommended to break out the higher octane micro-brew for this occasion. If it isn't going to be fun, why bother?

The procedure to remove the trim panel can be found here:power window passenger side

The passenger side switch can be purchased here: 10354849 - OEM GM Release Switch | GMPartsCenter.net

(This may seem like a superfluous, common-sense caution, but I'll put it out there anyway: Before any electrical connections are broken or joined, ensure the ignition is placed in the OFF position. I hate it when I get PMs from people who accomplish the jobs using procedures I write but fail to follow safety precautions I take for granted and weld their fillings together.)

1. Once the door panel is removed, remove the inner energy absorber from the door panel.
2. Remove the four fasteners from the rear of the armrest.
3. Remove the single fastener from the front (forward-facing end) of the armrest.
4. Disconnect the armrest wiring harness and remove the armrest assembly.
5. Remove the armrest pull trim cover - pull on it to disengage the retainers.
6. Remove the retaining screws from the metal trim cover applique.
7. Remove the applique from the armrest.
8. Remove the screws retaining the Door Latch Release Switch from the armrest trim cover applique.

To test the Passenger Door switch, measure between Pin 3 (Gnd) and Pins 1 (Open) while pressing the switch.

Reassemble the pile of stuff sitting in front of you in reverse order, paying particular attention to the steps where beer intake is most appropriate to accomplish the job in a timely manner. For me, this is an invitation to embibe at each step, but your mileage may vary. Personally, I like to get a head-start early in the morning. In case something else invariably goes wrong, I have the rest of the day to sober up and determine whether it's more practical to remain sober or give up altogether.

Other technical things to note during reassembly:

1. Torque the Door Latch Release Switch retaining screws on the trim cover applique to 17 in/lbs.
2. Torque the (five) screws securing the armrest to the door panel to 89 in/lbs.

CC

 

[Bakertech]

This points heavily toward the switch being bad, or an intermittent connection in its path to its door control module.

Having a Tech 2 would make isolating the cause a five-minutes job, but since you don't, you'll need to take the door trim panel off and measure the operation of the Door Latch Release Switch with a multi-meter to prove the part is actually bad, then replace it, and put the whole thing back together. You'll need beer and trim removal tools to do this job, plus the usual hand tools, and an in/lb-capable torque wrench.

Because it's a fairly simple job requiring no power tools or exposure to lethal voltages, it's recommended to break out the higher octane micro-brew for this occasion. If it isn't going to be fun, why bother?

The procedure to remove the trim panel can be found here:power window passenger side

(This may seem like a superfluous, common-sense caution, but I'll put it out there anyway: Before any electrical connections are broken or joined, ensure the ignition is placed in the OFF position. I hate it when I get PMs from people who accomplish the jobs using procedures I write but fail to follow safety precautions I take for granted and weld their fillings together.)

1. Once the door panel is removed, remove the inner energy absorber from the door panel.
2. Remove the four fasteners from the rear of the armrest.
3. Remove the single fastener from the front (forward-facing end) of the armrest.
4. Disconnect the armrest wiring harness and remove the armrest assembly.
5. Remove the armrest pull trim cover - pull on it to disengage the retainers.
6. Remove the retaining screws from the metal trim cover applique.
7. Remove the applique from the armrest.
8. Remove the screws retaining the Door Latch Release Switch from the armrest trim cover applique.

To test the Passenger Door switch, measure between Pin 3 (Gnd) and Pins 1 (Open) while pressing the switch.

Reassemble the pile of stuff sitting in front of you in reverse order, paying particular attention to the steps where beer intake is most appropriate to accomplish the job in a timely manner. For me, this is an invitation to embibe at each step, but your mileage may vary. Personally, I like to get a head-start early in the morning. In case something else invariably goes wrong, I have the rest of the day to sober up and determine whether it's more practical to remain sober or give up altogether.

Other technical things to note during reassembly:

1. Torque the Door Latch Release Switch retaining screws on the trim cover applique to 17 in/lbs.
2. Torque the (five) screws securing the armrest to the door panel to 89 in/lbs.

CC

YIKES!!! Ok, I have the in/lb's torque wrench, trim removal tool and will procure the 28 bottle case of 5% Budweiser. (My reply was 2 Buds).
I don't know which is pin 1 or 3, perhaps it is embossed on the switch and I should get continuity between them while pressing the switch.
I do hear the "zmmmmmkkkk" at the door post with the door open when I press the switch. Sometimes just "zzzzzmmmm". It worked perfectly today. Many times. I have found that the Switch Part # is either 889022748 0r 88865214.
I may just spray the latch mechanism with Silicone or WD 69 to see if that helps and get out my label maker to advise passenger of the location of the Manual Door Opener Lever!
Thank you for a most detailed R&R of the situation. I may get into my 4 Volume 800+pages of the Service Manual. I hope there are not Air Bags involved.
This is one of the few fixes that does not start with "Remove the Negative Battery Cable". Battery Tender time in Canada....

Sincere Thanks again C3
Gord.

 

[xlrwoody]

open button pushed inside door

Had someone push the open button on my passenger door a little to hard this weekend, and it pushed out. I read CCClarke's instructions on how to replace the button if it goes bad and the part number. Is there anything else I would need to order before I take the door apart that would "seat" the button in place?

 

[Bakertech]

Door release button

I suggest trying to fish it back thru the hole if possible for examination before pulling the door panel if possible. It must have broken a plastic clip or two when it went inward. There is likely a fault with the switch or someone would not have pressed it to the breaking point, and you will likely need some crazy glue etc to re-secure it or the new switch. Make sure it works first! Manual indicates, 'make certain ignition is Off'.
Good Luck

Had someone push the open button on my passenger door a little to hard this weekend, and it pushed out. I read CCClarke's instructions on how to replace the button if it goes bad and the part number. Is there anything else I would need to order before I take the door apart that would "seat" the button in place?

 

[ccclarke]

I think the easiest way to determine what yielded is to remove the door panel (which isn't bad) and do a visual inspection.

Most likely, you'll need to replace the switch assembly. If the part was unavailable or terminally expensive, I might consider bonding it in place, but that would only be as a last resort. It's best to replace the part in most cases. Inspect first, then order replacement parts. The above-mentioned procedure should be enough to get you where you need to go.

CC

 

[PTpro]

Passenger Door Release Switch only works sometimes!

Anyone have repair info?

Thanks.

When the door switch operates intermittently, it usually means the contact points are a little corroded. It's an easy job to take out the switch, lightly sand or file the contacts to a shine, then replace the switch. You can find a complete U-tube video on how to do it if you can't figure it out. The job is performed on a Vette, but it's the same principal.

 

[Double D]

My door quit closing it will not shut on drivers side also my battery went dead a month ago from not driving and now having issues with the CD player making noise every time o open the door and turn the ignition off the CD player cycles and never did this before the battery went dead. Is there extra steps you have to take after a battery goes dead because I had to un hook it again because the door getting left open was draining the battery.

 

[IAN]

Welcome on this site.

First get the battery fixed and with a continuous full charge,
secondo the year of the XLR is not mention.

IAN

 

[beaver_jd]

Double D, I see this is your first post and not knowing how long you have owned your car and what repairs or maintenance you have done the first thing I would do is replace the battery. Get a battery tender and when you are not driving your car have the tender on. It is real important that you keep your battery charged up. You will have to re index your windows. If your battery was dead the drivers window would not drop when you closed the door. This would prevent the door from closing properly.
With regards to the cycling of the CD player mine started doing that a couple of years ago and I just ignore it. I have never used the CD player anyways.
John F.

 

[Double D]

Thank you I have owned the car almost a year it’s a 2006 and the dealership said and as by looking the prior and only owner took the car to the dealership and kept up on maintenance for every little detail the car looks brand new the carpets are totally white and there wasn’t a drop
Of dirt or wear and tear when I bought it. I did have a problem first with the window not rolling up when I charged the battery and drove it . But it worked out the kink and started working. But then the CD started making very loud noises I can’t stand to ignore it. Then the steer wheel would not got back to driver one preferences when I got in . I’m driver one and never use driver two key or driver I’m the only one that drives her. My husband is a diesel mechanic so he thinks it’s the latch accelerator and won’t listen to my reprogramming response. The battery holds charge there is nothing wrong with the battery it’s brand new. I did buy a new fob battery when I couldn’t get the door **** the last time the latch took a crap for the last time so we have unhooked the battery or it would have gone dead. Now I will probably have all sorts of problems now. He says the accelerator is 12 volts and has nothing to do with the window. And wants to buy a new accelerator. I do remember the last time the battery went dead the window wouldn’t go up when getting in or out of the car so that could be right but it functions when you use the door pad. This is my first time on this forum. I’ve never commented here just read through articles if I’m having issues with my XLR. I love her and don’t want her broken. My husband is jealous of the car and doesn’t like me driving it because I get so much attention. I had a 2004 corvette dame color black that I sold when I bought the XLR I should have kept the corvette at least it didn’t have problems and the battery never went dead if I unhooked it or let her sit more than a month at a time . Thanks for your response

 

[IAN]

Hi DoubleD

You are a luky one, your best friends is a mechanic, that is great for you and it could be economical.

The problems of your XLR seems to come from the same area, the electrical current seems not efficient.

The grounds are to be check and are located on the A post driver lower side and on the B lower post at the rear of the seat.
Also on this B post is the driver door latch that you could check for its function.
(On Google/ Youtube, the corvette c6 has some video showing how to replace a door latch, both products are using the same parts.)

The trim has to be removed to access at these components,
The exterior door switch (pad) can be also check, it is easy to be remove, again see on YouTube for the replacement.

Before getting in the verification and the repairs it would be wise to check if the cluster is sending a message, also the related fuses situated at the passenger side behind the carpet footwell.
A large fuse box ( BCM) is present, check the fuse 21 (doors switch) the fuse 15 (Door latch) and the fuse 34 ( doors control) these fuse are for the early XlR your 2006 should be the same ones, if not, see your owner manual.

If the carpet is wet this means water intrusion, due to the rain or other reasons such as for the overflow water of the evaporator air conditioner, the drain tube could be blocked.

As far for the hissing of the CD player, a cleaner disc could be purchased for cleaning it ( the lens ) then try some others CD to see if the hissing has gone.

I was told that the CDs could be cleaned into a dishwasher???

Good Luck

IAN

 

[Double D]

Carpet is not wet either. I have not checked under the passenger carpet for fuse I will try that next I do know we were trying to get the dome light fuse so we didn’t have to unplug the battery again. I do have a question though. Does anyone know if they make a scanner tool that you plug I. To read codes for the older model XLR. Or which tool number it is . It seems it would be a wise choice to invest in one with all these issues going on if there is one. Thank you

 

[IAN]

Yes

If you are confortable with a such a tool yes it is a good decision.

It is called Teck2, visit the eBay site there are some different prices, make sure that you get the full information for all its accessories and disc.
Also make a search on our site in order learn more about it.

IAN

 

[Double D]

Thank you my stepson dropped one off we bought a door actuator . Now we need to know how too remove the back panel behind the seat and if that actually needs to be moved out of the way..

 

[IAN]

Hi Double D

It is not necessary, the trims of the door pillar as to be remove, plastics clips hold it in place.

Ounce it is removed the Latch become available for the replacement.

On the door pillar B the latch is retain by 2 screws, removed them and the latch will get free.

In order for you to get familiar with the replacement of it visit YouTube, ask '' how to replace a door latch of a corvette c6''
both cars are using the same parts.

Good luck

IAN