new toy on the XLR

[jjsea55]

The fly in the ointment here is that the DRLs and the turn signals use the same circuit via original design. I thought I wanted the white on all the time until it occurred to me that my DRLs were amber (doh!), and that by wiring the amber lead to the DRL/TS circuit I would have matching presentation up front when using only the "daytime" DRLs. Also, the amber strip LEDs would pulse with the amber DRLs when the turn signals were activated.

By wiring the white lead to the parking lamp circuit (I have LEDs here), the white strip LEDs are activated whenever the parking lights and/or headlights are activated. I've determined that by switching my parking lights on during the day... the parking light, side marker light, and the white strip LEDs are activated (the amber DRL is deactivated) thus presenting only the white array plus the side marker behind the amber lens. This looks pretty cool, actually! The amber strip will continue to pulse activate when the turn signals are needed.

So... if you switch from normal DRL (auto) to your parking lights during daytime running you'll have the white strip LEDs activated. When you activate your headlamps they will remain on because the parking lamps/side markers remain activated with the headlamps.

Hope this helps a bit. It was a trial and error process, but I'm pleased with the outcome wired in this manner.

 

[XFireXLR]

I was just wondering if you can use a "fuse tap" to each of the respective fuses and wiring the LED's that way? The reason I am asking I went to my dealer and my secondary mechanic to see if they could handle the installation both were a bit reluctant to tap into the DRL/TS wiring. My dealer was more worried about warranty issues and my secondary mechanic just wants to see if there is an easier installation method.

 

[jjsea55]

I considered that option, but can't say for sure. I had a tech at an automotive accessory shop assist on this and it was really pretty straight forward. We removed the headlight assemblies to facilitate the placement of the strip on each underside, and the wiring harness was right there to tap into with the wire splicing plastic fittings he had in the shop. He even had another adhesive strip that he felt would be stronger and we used it. There is way more wire than needed for this short reach and we just left it bundled neatly in the harness.

The process could be basically reversed to undo the project and return to "normal". The white lights are a bit "bluer" than my 6000k headlamps, but not to the extreme. I'm happy with the results thus far.

 

[rleonard]

OnAlaska, That looks great!

Bob

 

[05 GRAND DADDY]

Help! LEDS ISSUE

HELP! Ok all you auto wiring XLR friendS! Any Ideals? I changed the original interior back side trunk lights to LEDS & also add to 2 small LEDS units up inside of trunk to help put some light in that area when it's dark out, I mounted them with double face tape on to the long center flip up piece, "hope they stay on when it get hot" They work fine on there you just have to run all wiring back in behind and wire tie all loose wires back from moving part. My question is some times all of the LEDS in the trunk are just barley lit & very dim. I did checked to make sure red/black is right because they won't light if they are backwards. I wired them into the back side of the interior light wiring so when the trunk opens they all come on. All connection are soldered with connectors and protected with black tape so it should not be shorting out anywhere. So here's is what I'm not sure about the wire I use from the orignal unit to the 2 new LEDS is like a speaker wire (stranded type not single wire) just wonder if this could cause the dim problem? Like I said only happens sometimes?

Thx Caddyman Dan

 

[agwondra]

HELP! Ok all you auto wiring XLR friendS! Any Ideals? I changed the original interior back side trunk lights to LEDS & also add to 2 small LEDS units up inside of trunk to help put some light in that area when it's dark out, I mounted them with double face tape on to the long center flip up piece, "hope they stay on when it get hot" They work fine on there you just have to run all wiring back in behind and wire tie all loose wires back from moving part. My question is some times all of the LEDS in the trunk are just barley lit & very dim. I did checked to make sure red/black is right because they won't light if they are backwards. I wired them into the back side of the interior light wiring so when the trunk opens they all come on. All connection are soldered with connectors and protected with black tape so it should not be shorting out anywhere. So here's is what I'm not sure about the wire I use from the orignal unit to the 2 new LEDS is like a speaker wire (stranded type not single wire) just wonder if this could cause the dim problem? Like I said only happens sometimes?

Thx Caddyman Dan

You said you tied into the interior lights. Could you be getting the automatic dimming associated with the interior lighting when the trunk is open? Just a thought. I think you would be better off tying into the trunk lights.

 

[05 GRAND DADDY]

You said you tied into the interior lights. Could you be getting the automatic dimming associated with the interior lighting when the trunk is open? Just a thought. I think you would be better off tying into the trunk lights.

Hi agwondra:
Thx for responding!
I did wire directly into the wires behind the left side of the interior trunk light unit back where top lift pump area is and it is not always but just sometimes and as soon as I open the trunk they are very dim and seam to stay dim, But I can close and reopen the trunk than they come back on at a normal bright light again! VERY WEIRD!............ Do you think it could be that type of wire I mentioned????? Maybe I should rewire with 2 single stranded wires?

Thx Again!
Caddyman Dan

 

[agwondra]

Do you think it could be that type of wire I mentioned????? Maybe I should rewire with 2 single stranded wires?

Thx Again!
Caddyman Dan

As long as you used automotive stranded 18-22 gauge wire you should be OK. Most auto applications use stranded wire to avoid interruptions should a single standed wire break. Multiple strands provide redundancy for the circuit. Do the other lights in the trunk also dim on initial openning or just your new ones?

 

[05 GRAND DADDY]

As long as you used automotive stranded 18-22 gauge wire you should be OK. Most auto applications use stranded wire to avoid interruptions should a single standed wire break. Multiple strands provide redundancy for the circuit. Do the other lights in the trunk also dim on initial openning or just your new ones?

Yep! it is all 4 the 2 original and the 2 new ones all dim!

 

[agwondra]

Yep! it is all 4 the 2 original and the 2 new ones all dim!

OK, I may have a lead for you. I just replaced the insurance cards in my cars and when I replaced the XLR, the glove box light came on 'dimmed'. I adjusted the switch and it brightened to full intensity. Perhaps the switch is going bad or wearing. The first activation only produces a partial closure and the 2nd and beyond have 'loosened' it up enough to fully close. I have no idea where the trunk light switch is located unfortunately.

 

[05 GRAND DADDY]

OK, I may have a lead for you. I just replaced the insurance cards in my cars and when I replaced the XLR, the glove box light came on 'dimmed'. I adjusted the switch and it brightened to full intensity. Perhaps the switch is going bad or wearing. The first activation only produces a partial closure and the 2nd and beyond have 'loosened' it up enough to fully close. I have no idea where the trunk light switch is located unfortunately.

Ok sounds like a start! I may also get some 18-22 gauge wire and switch that out also, It's not to hard to do, just a pain after just putting it all back together! It's just WEIRD why it just started after i put in the LEDS!

Thx Again!