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lens look good . Not sure of the heat tolerance though as the headlights in the sun get above 130 if outside. I think mine are a polycarbon . There are bulbs advertised now that say switchback and require no resister . I just ordered a box to see if they will work.
 
I have the circuit done, just been putting off the hassle of the final steps. I have create a new wire loom and plug to work with the circuitry and getting everything to fit neatly by the headlight. You may have a better way, but it has to be plug and play easy to install for people. And yes, I will have to require customers to sign a strong liability waiver.
 
I use Clearvue and works around SoCal but and don't recommend long parks in the sun or trips to Vegas in the summer. I love polycarbonate, but it's brittle. I would be afraid of shattering, but then again melting isn't good either.
 
I have the circuit done, just been putting off the hassle of the final steps. I have create a new wire loom and plug to work with the circuitry and getting everything to fit neatly by the headlight. You may have a better way, but it has to be plug and play easy to install for people. And yes, I will have to require customers to sign a strong liability waiver.

Good luck with it! I'm looking forward to seeing it when you release it. For me, the bi-color light was a feature I really wanted and figuring it out was the real puzzle. Not a particularly difficult or complicated circuit, just took awhile to come up with the logic because I want it to work exactly like original, except white for DRL and amber for turn without having to turn anything else on and off. I have a lengthly post about it if you're curious. Please do keep us informed as you make progress!
 
lens look good . Not sure of the heat tolerance though as the headlights in the sun get above 130 if outside. I think mine are a polycarbon . There are bulbs advertised now that say switchback and require no resister . I just ordered a box to see if they will work.

In my experience, the no-resistor LEDs have resistors built in, so they are really "no external resistor" parts, so I'm curious to see if you've found something else. Otherwise, the resistors will heat up as much as the original lamp and right where you don't want it... by that lens. I'm also curious to hear if the switchback feature works because our DRL sockets are a single filament type, not a dual like a 3157.
 
In my experience, the no-resistor LEDs have resistors built in, so they are really "no external resistor" parts, so I'm curious to see if you've found something else. Otherwise, the resistors will heat up as much as the original lamp and right where you don't want it... by that lens. I'm also curious to hear if the switchback feature works because our DRL sockets are a single filament type, not a dual like a 3157.
there are 4 wires In the sockets for the drl. 2 grounds and a park and a turn signal. You can get them backwards on the switchback bulbs from the factory they have a amber bulb. I wanted a clear driving bulb and a amber turn signal. I will post photos once I get them and see how they work The resistor should only work when the blinker is on so its not like they are on with the DRL all the time . At least thats my understanding. they really should not heat up that much unless like the blue hairs in Florida you leave the blinker on all day.
 
DRL wiring and swtichback bulbs

there are 4 wires In the sockets for the drl. 2 grounds and a park and a turn signal. You can get them backwards on the switchback bulbs from the factory they have a amber bulb. I wanted a clear driving bulb and a amber turn signal. I will post photos once I get them and see how they work The resistor should only work when the blinker is on so its not like they are on with the DRL all the time . At least thats my understanding. they really should not heat up that much unless like the blue hairs in Florida you leave the blinker on all day.

I think you're mistaken. There are only three wires on the socket. Two ground (black) and the brighter turn signal filament (blue wire.) I tried using the resistor only for blinker, but the system DIC still shows an error. Other people have said that they have working switchback bulbs without any fancy extra stuff, so there may be something available that I couldn't find. It would need to have a circuit inside it that could differentiate from a continuous signal (DRL) and a pulsing signal (turn or hazard). It seems unlikely there is one because this is a really uncommon way to do it. Maybe we should move this to a new post for those who may want to find it later?


This is the schematic showing only one filament and one signal (blue)

DRL_schematic.jpg

Here's the socket itself.
DRL_Socket.JPG
 
I am talking about inside the socket were the bulb goes. There are four contact wires there .I forget but on some sockets the grounds are both on the same sides on other sockets the grounds are on opposite sides. This is why many bulbs wont work with the factory sockets. the ground wire splits inside the housing of the socket and feeds both sides of the bulb. It does not matter on a regular bulb which wire is hot and which is ground but an led does as you know.
 
I am talking about inside the socket were the bulb goes. There are four contact wires there .I forget but on some sockets the grounds are both on the same sides on other sockets the grounds are on opposite sides. This is why many bulbs wont work with the factory sockets. the ground wire splits inside the housing of the socket and feeds both sides of the bulb. It does not matter on a regular bulb which wire is hot and which is ground but an led does as you know.

I don’t disagree with any of that, but I am positive that the way our DRLs work is a continuous +12V on the blue wire with respect to the black wires, and the turn signal is a pulsed +12V on the same two wires. It isn’t obvious, but the socket has two ground wires that are connected together internally. From memory, one is the ground connection from the vehicle wiring harness and the other provides ground to the little white marker lamp. Most other systems use three wires. As you said, two common grounds and +12 for each, independent filament. So that’s what the after market companies are designing for, not our unusual method.

The reason Cadillac used one of the filaments in a dual-filament bulb instead of a single-filament bulb is because the bright filament in the dual is much brighter than any commonly available single-filament bulb of that era.

Do a quick search for my end-all DRL post. There are a ton of clarifying pictures.
 
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well All I know is I bought a box of bulbs from china led switchback. installed them in stock socket and they burn white on drl and flash yellow. They may flash a tiny bit faster than stock I will do a count and compare but they work dine for me. No external resistor installed
 
well All I know is I bought a box of bulbs from china led switchback. installed them in stock socket and they burn white on drl and flash yellow. They may flash a tiny bit faster than stock I will do a count and compare but they work dine for me. No external resistor installed


And no DIC error? Huh. I’m curious what LED.
 
I wil lsee what Ican find for you . I just bought hem from the local tuner shop and he said he uses them in all lhis customers car and has no problems except on a couple of Mercedes. he works on al lthe high buck cars around here.
 
lens look good . Not sure of the heat tolerance though as the headlights in the sun get above 130 if outside. I think mine are a polycarbon . There are bulbs advertised now that say switchback and require no resister . I just ordered a box to see if they will work.

Did you ever receive and test these bulbs?
 
be more than happy to help you


Already tried it with 2 major manufactures offshore. They can get the price down to 2000 only if I order and prepay for 5000 lights. Any fewer they want 4000 per light after a 50,000 initial setup cost. That's per side . HAHA There is not that many cars around. I have one light already scanned in a 3d program I will be glad to share if you think you can get them made somewhere
Hi i have a nice airwolf
Printer can you send me the cad file id like to try it thanks!
 

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