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Proud XLR owner with a problem

Un-plug OnStar or pay alot for diagnostics at a dealer

I had the same problem. I bought a AGP battery and a trickle charger. Problem fixed!!! Took the car in for service several mo's later, (obviously no trickle charger plugged in at dealership) and the battery was drained a day later. After a couple of hundred bucks in fees for diagnostic tests, was told there was problem in one of three computer circuits to "On-Star" and it would take several more hours to find and fix. I was also told in was not an uncommon problem with XLR's and often was caused by a wire rubbing against the chassis "somewhere".
To me, OnStar wasn't worth the money, so I had it disconnected. Since then, ZERO problems.

Having a dependable battery charge is worth alot more to me, than OnStar.
 
Lo Jack ?

I bought my 2006 XLR from a private owner a year ago Thanksgiving. The XLR had 20,000 miles on it and was/is pristine. In May, 2014, I drove it to the California coast from New Mexico and back: no problems. I have been driving it once per week normally. This past January, it would not start, so I bought a new battery. I continued driving it once per week with no problems. Two weeks ago, on Thursday, I uncovered it and prepared to drive it for its' weekly run and it would not start again. This should not happen with a new battery. After jump starting it via Onstar, I drove it to my local dealer and explained my problem. They kept it for a week and did various "parasitic" draining tests for the battery and pronounced it to be "Normal". The dealer recommends driving it once per week and starting it every four days and let it run in my driveway for 15 - 20 minutes. Are they covering something up or does EVERY XLR owner do the same?


I have a 2009 XLR with LoJack installed by the dealer. It is always drawing a tiny current and would drain the battery if not driven regularly, or maintained by some kind of a trickle charger. You may want to check if you car has this installed too. Although a week sounds like too short of a time frame for this to happen. I had the car siting for up to 3 weeks and starting without a problem. The only time I had an issue was when the car sat for a month. Good luck and enjoy the drive!
 
Trickle Chargers

IMHO Leaving the hood open when using a maintainer is being extremely overcautious and not needed. I keep my maintainer connected and running in a closed garage and covered. I understand the concern of hydrogen gas discharge and accumulating under the hood. Many things effect the amount of hydrogen produced like battery type (lead acid, glass mat, gel etc) and rate of charge. Modern batteries just being maintained at a very low rate do not produce much hydrogen at all. The underhood area is far from air tight.

I do leave my hood unlatched during storage, more as a way to gain access to the battery if something should fail over hydrogen gas concern.

Lots of advice in this Thread!
I have made several 'Trickle Chargers' for people who store their vehicles for weeks or months. I use the transformers off discarded phones and other devices which are rated from 300-1000ma (1 Amp) D.C. Determine the positive lead and attach a small serious alligator clamp with Red markings on it and of course a Black one on the other lead. Plug it into a dedicated plug and forget about it. I have also ran an Aux + 10ga red wire from the Battery to an accessible point outside the vehicle.
Although Hydrogen is lighter than air, even under a cover it is unlikely that there is any inherent danger with such low voltage charging. I prop the hood open at the centre latch with a 2" cube of Styrofoam during Winter storage. I check a door every month to see if the light comes on. I use a 300ma transformer for DC current on my 2008 XLR.
I believe it to be harmful just starting a vehicle without letting it get fully warmed up before shut-down when in Storage.
I do fail to see how a Toll Road Transponder can affect vehicle electrical shut-down since it has it's own battery.
Could be!
 
I have no extra software/hardware

All, I have no extra software/hardware (Sun Pass, LoJack, etc) installed. It is just a very well maintained, low mileage beauty that turns heads no matter where I go (top up or down). My problem has been solved with the purchase and use of a NAPA battery charger/maintainer. It has been recommended that I also purchase a Whistler portable quick charge for the trunk if I'm away from home. I plan to do this (Thanks to Dave Jones). I do plan to keep my OnStar, although it is the least expensive plan. If I DO have similar troubles, I will print off the contents of this thread to take to my dealer. Thanks again, everyone!
a Whistler portable quick charge

a Whistler portable quick charge
 
Battery Tender/Maintainer

I have been using Battery Tenders since 1991 on my Corvettes with nary a problem. Now I use one on my 06 XLR whenever it's going to be parked in the garage for more than two-three days. Currently, it's been on charge since November and last week I started it to go to a "car guy" breakfast. It cranked right up as if it had been run yesterday. I have the unit hooked up permanently by using the provided wires with the "eye" ends and running that wire out through the back end of the hood. That way the hood does not even have to be opened to connect/disconnect the charger.
 
key fob drain

I once had the same problem and my dealership mechanic found it to be my old fashion Sun Pass attached to my windshield for easy passing through toll areas. The Sun Pass transmitter would not let my electronics completely go to sleep when the car ignition was shut off. I removed the Sun Pass transmitter and put it into its sealed foiled case in the glove box and the problem stopped happening. Now I can leave my XLR-V for many days without having a starting issue.

You may perhaps have some electronic device (like some sort of transmitter, radar detector, a blue tooth device, etc.) in this vehicle that will not allow your electronics to completely shut off!

Speaking of electronic devices draining your battery....same thing applies to leaving your KEY FOB in your vehicle.
when you do this the computers are constantly trying to connect to your fob.
 
Border Line Problem

I bought my 2006 XLR from a private owner a year ago Thanksgiving. The XLR had 20,000 miles on it and was/is pristine. In May, 2014, I drove it to the California coast from New Mexico and back: no problems. I have been driving it once per week normally. This past January, it would not start, so I bought a new battery. I continued driving it once per week with no problems. Two weeks ago, on Thursday, I uncovered it and prepared to drive it for its' weekly run and it would not start again. This should not happen with a new battery. After jump starting it via Onstar, I drove it to my local dealer and explained my problem. They kept it for a week and did various "parasitic" draining tests for the battery and pronounced it to be "Normal". The dealer recommends driving it once per week and starting it every four days and let it run in my driveway for 15 - 20 minutes. Are they covering something up or does EVERY XLR owner do the same?

The XLR is fully electric as you know. Doors, Trunk, top, etc. When the car is sitting the computer is running. In a quite garage you can hear it.
If you have OnStar, Navigation, Satellite Radio and key fob searching running all the time it uses battery. If the car is operating properly the battery will
go dead after about 3 weeks if not tended. If you find the car won't start after only 2 weeks I would have concern. As you have been told by numerous others a battery tender is suggested and it can be mounted in the car at the battery box.

Nickd410
 
I don't know if this is the area. But I recently found this problem. Well while GCS_xlr was here in my driveway he spotted this before I did.
ba748adf2170a798f867fc8e4eb197c1.jpg
b2ec7bd94c40ce01257ad32ca066d1dc.jpg
now didn't all get in a tizzy. I put the white twisty tie in the whole to be a guide and marker. The size of the whole in the weather strip is probably the size of nickel but not as big as a quarter. Do I need to replace the whole side "wing" flap or just have a new seal strip


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XLR Battery Problems

I have a 2009 XLR Platinum Edition and have had battery problems as well. When I bought the car (used) with 8000 miles on it, the battery went dead after 15 minutes in the accessory mode while I was sitting in the driveway programing the radio stations. I charged the battery enough to get the car started and took it to my Cadillac Dealer. They tested the battery, said it was okay and charged it, but it went dead again, so they replaced the battery under the warranty.

At 19,000 miles the battery went dead again. This time, when the Cadillac Dealer tested it, they confirmed it was bad and replaced again. According to GM, the battery should hold a charge for 30-days but, at the suggesting of the service manager, if I don't drive the car regularly (at least once a week) I should put a charger on it - I use a Battery Tender. Also, I now make it a practice, if I plan to be away for a week or more, I attach my Battery Tender and have had no further difficulty.

I will add, the XLR has 22-computers which normally turn off after short period of time (about 30-minutes) of turning the ignition off. But in some rare instances, random radio signals (like a remote garage door opener) can wake up the car's computers. If that happens repeatedly, then the battery goes dead.

My car now has 24,000 miles on it and so far, no more difficulty. That said, now on my 3rd battery since the car was new I think I would opt for a Optima Battery with more cold cranking amps (CCA) the the GM/Delco Battery.
 
Batteries

I have a 2009 XLR Platinum Edition and have had battery problems as well. When I bought the car (used) with 8000 miles on it, the battery went dead after 15 minutes in the accessory mode while I was sitting in the driveway programing the radio stations. I charged the battery enough to get the car started and took it to my Cadillac Dealer. They tested the battery, said it was okay and charged it, but it went dead again, so they replaced the battery under the warranty.

At 19,000 miles the battery went dead again. This time, when the Cadillac Dealer tested it, they confirmed it was bad and replaced again. According to GM, the battery should hold a charge for 30-days but, at the suggesting of the service manager, if I don't drive the car regularly (at least once a week) I should put a charger on it - I use a Battery Tender. Also, I now make it a practice, if I plan to be away for a week or more, I attach my Battery Tender and have had no further difficulty.

I will add, the XLR has 22-computers which normally turn off after short period of time (about 30-minutes) of turning the ignition off. But in some rare instances, random radio signals (like a remote garage door opener) can wake up the car's computers. If that happens repeatedly, then the battery goes dead.

My car now has 24,000 miles on it and so far, no more difficulty. That said, now on my 3rd battery since the car was new I think I would opt for a Optima Battery with more cold cranking amps (CCA) the the GM/Delco Battery.

I don't think more CCA will help any prematurely dead/dieing battery situation. Replacement batteries are usually a bit higher in CCA due to wear on starter and plug degredation etc.
Personally I like to keep batteries Delco in my GM Vehicles. I made a simple battery tender out of a 12VDC 500ma transformer (anything under 1Amp [1000ma] that comes with various video and communication devices will work. S
imply determine + and - with your Voltmeter and attach red/black alligator clips.
I leave it plugged in all Winter - it has been -35ºF here this Winter - and no problem.
I of course leave the hood propped open a couple inches just in case.. I check the door latch (red light) from week to week as an indicator.

I have been storing my key fobs approx. 10' from the XLR. Not sure if that is preventing 'shut down' but with the home made tender, I don't care.
C'mon Spring. Snow here today in Southern Ontario!
Gord.
 
I don't think more CCA will help any prematurely dead/dieing battery situation. Replacement batteries are usually a bit higher in CCA due to wear on starter and plug degredation etc.
Personally I like to keep batteries Delco in my GM Vehicles. I made a simple battery tender out of a 12VDC 500ma transformer (anything under 1Amp [1000ma] that comes with various video and communication devices will work. S
imply determine + and - with your Voltmeter and attach red/black alligator clips.
I leave it plugged in all Winter - it has been -35ºF here this Winter - and no problem.
I of course leave the hood propped open a couple inches just in case.. I check the door latch (red light) from week to week as an indicator.

I have been storing my key fobs approx. 10' from the XLR. Not sure if that is preventing 'shut down' but with the home made tender, I don't care.
C'mon Spring. Snow here today in Southern Ontario!
Gord.


There is WAY more to a battery tender than a simple power supply. While the value of pulse, sometimes with reverse polarity, desulphication routines may be debatable, strict electronic voltage and current monitoring and regulation are not. Personally I'm not going to plug in some wall wart power supply into my baby to save a few dollars. But then I never subject mine to -35 degree temperatures either.
 
Cheapy Battery tender.

There is WAY more to a battery tender than a simple power supply. While the value of pulse, sometimes with reverse polarity, desulphicationroutines may be debatable, strict electronic voltage and current monitoring and regulation are not. Personally I'm not going to plug in some wall wart power supply into my baby to save a few dollars. But then I never subject mine to -35 degree temperatures either.

I don't know if the 'Battery Tender' goes into desphurization mode (current reversal) but that is not a concern with 1ma or less DC IMHO.
If it starts in the Spring (MAY?) I'm good!
 
Battery

I don't think more CCA will help any prematurely dead/dieing battery situation. Replacement batteries are usually a bit higher in CCA due to wear on starter and plug degredation etc.
Personally I like to keep batteries Delco in my GM Vehicles. I made a simple battery tender out of a 12VDC 500ma transformer (anything under 1Amp [1000ma] that comes with various video and communication devices will work. S
imply determine + and - with your Voltmeter and attach red/black alligator clips.
I leave it plugged in all Winter - it has been -35ºF here this Winter - and no problem.
I of course leave the hood propped open a couple inches just in case.. I check the door latch (red light) from week to week as an indicator.

I have been storing my key fobs approx. 10' from the XLR. Not sure if that is preventing 'shut down' but with the home made tender, I don't care.
C'mon Spring. Snow here today in Southern Ontario!
Gord.

DITTO: ACDELCO CORRECT WAY TO GO ON THE XLR. I WOULD DIFFER ON OTHER VEHICLES. DAVE JONES
 
On my 2004-09 parts and labor sheet its lists Part number 88956627 for my right side outer cover tonneau. It's listed item 16 under hardtop section. My dealer gave me a price of $281.84 but on their sheet its item number 27. The reason I was asking was because my seal has a hole in it. My parts and labor says $203 and change. Question is should I bring my list sheet to have them compare to their sheet and item number.
89938d35b09dd597eec2b57734535528.jpg
d5da1e70a0b3a4fd51d0bf296dd6889a.jpg
a24a57cb099ddf5f77703aedb965c502.jpg


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one pic looks like the seal and panel are separate?? see if you can just find the seal??
i looked on GMPARTSDIRECT. the seal comes with the panel. i am pretty sure this panel was the same for all 2004 to 2009 xlr's.
might find one used? also the price is better at the website i mentioned. FOR THE 06
88956627 outer panel ebony, right $141
the left side is cheaper :) $92
double check i didnt mess up the year or color.
even at that i would improvise some sort of repair rather than replace. i dont think that gasket is part of the water sealing folding top gaskets, its just for looks with the top down and panels exposed.
 
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The one with the highlight yellow is from dealer. The 1st pic is my car the last one is my parts and labor sheet.
But I'll look into that. Thanks lextoy

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one pic looks like the seal and panel are separate?? see if you can just find the seal??
i looked on GMPARTSDIRECT. the seal comes with the panel. i am pretty sure this panel was the same for all 2004 to 2009 xlr's.
might find one used? also the price is better at the website i mentioned. FOR THE 06
88956627 outer panel ebony, right $141
the left side is cheaper :) $92
double check i didnt mess up the year or color.
even at that i would improvise some sort of repair rather than replace. i dont think that gasket is part of the water sealing folding top gaskets, its just for looks with the top down and panels exposed.

I asked and they said it comes as one part


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On my 2004-09 parts and labor sheet its lists Part number 88956627 for my right side outer cover tonneau. It's listed item 16 under hardtop section. My dealer gave me a price of $281.84 but on their sheet its item number 27. The reason I was asking was because my seal has a hole in it. My parts and labor says $203 and change. Question is should I bring my list sheet to have them compare to their sheet and item number.
89938d35b09dd597eec2b57734535528.jpg
d5da1e70a0b3a4fd51d0bf296dd6889a.jpg
a24a57cb099ddf5f77703aedb965c502.jpg


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I would look into why that tore. Your rear side window could be out of alignment. When the top gets put up the window could b catching on the seal which caused the rip?
 
Well I might have to have it really looked at now. Today after I had the top up all week(which is really unusual for me) because of my mom has had a heart valve replaced 4 weeks ago. Since I can only drive one car (because of adaptions) and my mom can't drive. (Doc orders) my Xlr has been the designated car and I have been her transporter. But back to the main story at hand. I went to drop the top and do a quick run to the store. When it went through the cycle to the end where the side and main tonneau covers fold flat. I noticed from the rearview that the top got stuck. So the side and main flaps wouldn't close. So I cycled the top back up and I guess now will have to take it back in to the dealer. I just spend 1048 for 4 new tires and everything tire related yesterday.


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Well I stopped in at my dealer to have them help see what the problem is/was. But before I did that I dropped the top and raised it again. I didn't want to waste my time. But the right side flap was getting stuck this time. The top was cycling fine. The side louver was slightly sticking. So my service tech pulled it into the Bay Area and he looked closely at it. He thinks somehow it got slightly bent somehow. So I'll take it in next week since it'll be high rain chance this weekend. Hope to have it fixed by May 2nd for the st Augustine cruisers big car show


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