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Seat switch panel replacement

05 GRAND DADDY

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Joined
Jun 17, 2011
Messages
2,728
Location
South Central PA (Littlestown)
My XLR/V(s)
2005 Light Platinium Silver XLR
Funny you mentioned seat control panel on my drivers side the back portion has drop down! Is this a major take the whole seat out repair and do I need a bracket too? I was going to take it back to my upholster guy who replaced the leather back side panel last year! Did not seem right ever since he did that!
 
Funny you mentioned seat control panel on my drivers side the back portion has drop down! Is this a major take the whole seat out repair and do I need a bracket too? I was going to take it back to my upholster guy who replaced the leather back side panel last year! Did not seem right ever since he did that!

GD, no you do not have to take the seat out to replace the (CHEAP) PLASTIC SWITCH PANEL although the service manual suggests it.

I have owned several Caddies in my years, starting with a 1951 Coupe De Ville CONVERTIBLE to a 1978 Fleetwood De Elagance and those all had metal switch panel for the seat control switches. Needless to say, I am really disappointed in the lack of quality in some of the parts of the modern Caddies.
It remineds me of the 1966 Dodge Charger I purchased. As I drove it off the lot I thought to myself, "It must be swell, it looks like it was made by Mattel", referring to the dash. Mostly black plastic!

There are three philip head sheet metal screw under the panel, two on the side and one in the front that can be unscrewed with a short screwdriver if you raise the seat up as far as it will go.
The REALLY HARD part of this repair is getting the switch modules out of their of their frames/holders. The Lumbard switch cables just unplug from their switchs but just make sure you label which goes to which switch.

I am not sure if the switch panel I'm getting from Gmpartsdirect.com has the internal switch holder frame are not but if it dosen't, I'll have to remove and the orginal one and use it. Got lots of Super Glue for that part of the repair!

I'm supposed to get the replacement panel this Friday but I won't be able to get back to this project as my first born has run into financial problems and she and my 12 yr old grand-daughter are moving into my front house and I'm moving into the back house which was my deased wife and my HONEY MOON COTTAGE. Since she past on in January of 1999, It has become a Storage building so I am very busy moving all the stuff that's in it to a storage rental place close by and then move all my stuff from the front house to the back house.

I'll let you know how much more has to be done to finish this project.

Bye for now,
 
Daily Chat

Thanks really appreciate this info! Do you have part #'s? and if not where can get them? I would also like to replace the plastic and bracket because is has a chip out of it on the top side where it's easy seen! Thanks again have a great day!
 
Jack,

Great instruction on the removal..........that's exactly how I did it when I changed mine. The switch housings are part of the unit, so you won't need the Super Glue!! :lol::lol:

It's a pretty simple job, you should have no problems.



..................................................There are three philip head sheet metal screw under the panel, two on the side and one in the front that can be unscrewed with a short screwdriver if you raise the seat up as far as it will go.
The REALLY HARD part of this repair is getting the switch modules out of their of their frames/holders. The Lumbard switch cables just unplug from their switchs but just make sure you label which goes to which switch.

I am not sure if the switch panel I'm getting from Gmpartsdirect.com has the internal switch holder frame are not but if it dosen't, I'll have to remove and the orginal one and use it. Got lots of Super Glue for that part of the repair!................................
 
Thanks really appreciate this info! Do you have part #'s? and if not where can get them? I would also like to replace the plastic and bracket because is has a chip out of it on the top side where it's easy seen! Thanks again have a great day!

Sorry GD, I should have posted the part # that I got from Customer Service.

You can get the part from www.gmpartsdirect.com.

My part # is: 88991572 and this is for the Shale (light tan) interior of my XLR.

If you have the darker interior, I would strongly suggest you contact customerservice@gmpartsdirect.com and give them your VIN so they can match your interior color as this is a non-returnable part.

The cost including shipping and Calf. sales tax was $39.46. (A lot cheaper than my local dealer, plus they wanted $250.00 to install it.)

I still haven't removed my 'Curb Alert' to find out what happened to it.

Good Luck,
 
Jack,

Great instruction on the removal..........that's exactly how I did it when I changed mine. The switch housings are part of the unit, so you won't need the Super Glue!! :lol::lol:

It's a pretty simple job, you should have no problems.

Thanks Cubby, that's good news.:worship:
Everytime I work with Super Glue, I end up glueing my finger together.:pat:

Now that I live alone, I have to make sure I've got some MEK to soak my fingers in to counter-act the glue ASAP.:lol:

Thanks again,
 
Sorry GD, I should have posted the part # that I got from Customer Service.

You can get the part from www.gmpartsdirect.com.

My part # is: 88991572 and this is for the Shale (light tan) interior of my XLR.

If you have the darker interior, I would strongly suggest you contact customerservice@gmpartsdirect.com and give them your VIN so they can match your interior color as this is a non-returnable part.

The cost including shipping and Calf. sales tax was $39.46. (A lot cheaper than my local dealer, plus they wanted $250.00 to install it.)

I still haven't removed my 'Curb Alert' to find out what happened to it.

Good Luck,

Thanks for part numbers and good luck with your moving project
 
Thanks for part numbers and good luck with your moving project

You're welcome and by the way, I received my switch panel yesterday afternoon and like Cubby said, "It does have the switch holder inside."

Not getting much moving done here in 'Not So Sunny California', it's been raining for several days!

By the way, there's a bare metal bracket attached to the left side of the driver's seat that the switch panel attaches to and mine was showing rust on the outside so I removed it to clean and paint it and found out the mounting surface and the seat leather were worse than the visible side of the metal bracket. So I'm cleaning that mess up also then I'll do the passenger's seat.

Best to you,
 
You're welcome and by the way, I received my switch panel yesterday afternoon and like Cubby said, "It does have the switch holder inside."

Not getting much moving done here in 'Not So Sunny California', it's been raining for several days!

By the way, there's a bare metal bracket attached to the left side of the driver's seat that the switch panel attaches to and mine was showing rust on the outside so I removed it to clean and paint it and found out the mounting surface and the seat leather were worse than the visible side of the metal bracket. So I'm cleaning that mess up also then I'll do the passenger's seat.

Best to you,

Been so busy too with work, weather & home did not even order it yet should be the same color as your but does the metal bracket come with it mine may be broke? So i may just order it in case I need it! You say you can do all this with out removing the seat don't seem to be all that much room!???
 
Been so busy too with work, weather & home did not even order it yet should be the same color as your but does the metal bracket come with it mine may be broke? So i may just order it in case I need it! You say you can do all this with out removing the seat don't seem to be all that much room!???

No, the metal bracket did not come with the switch panel and I do not think yours is damaged but it's easy to check it out. Just take a flash light and gently pull the top of the switch panel toward you, away from the side of the seat and you'll see it. There are only 2 mounting points at the top of the panel and if yours is sagging down in the back, that means that both of the upper mounts are broken as well as the 2 bottom side mounts leaving the 1 bottom mount holding the whole assembly in 'Place?'

About the room for the screw driver, there is about 2 to 3 inches of room to get a #2 Philips head screw-driver under the side to remove and replace the mounting screws. The rear side screw is the tightest one to work with and I pretty sure I'll have to use my 1/4 inch rachet set with a #2 Philips head bit to replace this one. 4 out of the 5 mounting points were broken leaving the front underneath screw to remove and the whole panel just dropped down which made it a lot easier to remove the side screws. After studying the passenger side, it is qiute apparent that there will not be enough room for my fat hands to be able to work the regular screw-driver from the side but with raising the back of the seat up as far as it will go and lowering the front down as far as it will go and also moving the seat all the way forward there's enough room to get the small rachet system in and work from the back. Of course for the other 2 screws you just need to raise the set all the way up for those.
This is the kinda job my deased wife, with her small hands had no problem doing as long as I was there to tell her which way to turn the screw.:chuckle (Righty Tighty, Lefty Lousey gets confusing screwing from the bottom up.:pat:)

That always reminds me of when I was teaching a class for Machinist and a student was Tapping (threading a hole) in a piece of angle iron with the side adjacent up, interfering with the Tap Handle and only allowing the student to turn the Tap 180 Degrees at a time. When I ask him why he didn't turn the part over and Tap it from the other side, his reply was, "Because I have to have a RIGHT-HAND THREAD, NOT A LEFT-HAND THREAD!"

At this point, I realized I had to stop the class and take a step back and go over the difference between the Right and Left-Hand threads from the different directions i.e. up, down, back and forth. Surprisingly, not all my students could understand my 2D drawings on the chaulk board and what I ended up doing was to empty my coffee out of my thermos and showing the class the difference of the direction of the thread depends on the viewing position.
That example could not be disputed by any of my students.
That was a real lesson learned for me on how to improve my teaching skills and NOT to assume that what came natural to me was NOT the same for everybody!:pat:

Again, I hope this helps you and everyone else on the Forum. If you need further help, just ask.
 
Thanks again for this informative post yes it does get confusing I've always over the years used that saying to best way to remember which ever positions your working from. I will go and check the bracket before I order it. I had a King Penn Windrestrictor on Roxy and was having trouble last year with BLM box which works the functions of brakes lights so they just sent me a brand new designed one which came Friday so that another project to install! Lucky springs a time away yet. But need to be done by March 1st either way driving her Hilton Head SC for our 33rd Anniversary Getaway!
 
Just checked screw that mounts bracket into the backside of seat is out hoping its not stripped out?
 
Got the screw to tighten up but center screw on plastic is broken off. Got a ? Does all the switches come off? and go on new plastic shield or comes with new ones? I believe all the times they worked on this drivers seat things got broken! Don't know just thinking so? Also got a good suggest for future repairs I am going to exchange the Phillip screws out with hex head with a large washer for more support to be able to use a ratchet or wrench on them in these tight places!
 
Well after taking it apart today I got it all back together I did use hex headed screws that worked very and add some larger washers th o help stabilize that whole unit I notice I still need to order a new panel not only is the center hole broke out but they red rolled new hole at the other two also and back black block that hooks into the back part of the bracket completely missing I get fix temporary to get by but know it will not last. I seen all the control units are moulded in place on the back side so I'm taking for grant it they come with new ones? Thx for all the help! You are like a 2nd pair of eyes!!!!
 
Well after taking it apart today I got it all back together I did use hex headed screws that worked very and add some larger washers to help stabilize the whole unit I notice I still need to order a new panel not only is the center hole broke out but they drilled new holes at the other two spots also and back black block that hooks into the the back holding bracket was completely missing I got it fix temporary to get by but know it will not last. I seen all the control units are moulded in place on the back side so I'm taking for grant it they come with new ones? Thx for all the help! You are like a 2nd pair of eyes!!!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thank Dan
 
Well after taking it apart today I got it all back together I did use hex headed screws that worked very and add some larger washers th o help stabilize that whole unit I notice I still need to order a new panel not only is the center hole broke out but they red rolled new hole at the other two also and back black block that hooks into the back part of the bracket completely missing I get fix temporary to get by but know it will not last. I seen all the control units are moulded in place on the back side so I'm taking for grant it they come with new ones? Thx for all the help! You are like a 2nd pair of eyes!!!!

The switch holder comes with the panel but NO SWITCHES. All the switches just snap out of the old unit but before you take out the main seat switch and the seat back switch, you have to remove their knobs. Just gently pry them off with a flat blade screw driver. They just pop loose.
As for removing the switches from the black plastic holders, you'll need to gently pry the sides of the holders out away from the switches and on the main switch you'll need 2 small flat blade screw drivers and pry the front sides out at the same time and then do the same thing with the back sides. This one almost takes a third hand to get it out of the bracket:(. Be patient and remember when you're prying the holder sides out, you also want to be lifting the switch up just enough that it clears the little moulded parts of the switch holder before releasing the other end.

:worship:Good idea on the hex head sheet metal screws to replace the philips head ones.
I'm going to do that and also add the washers you mentioned!:worship:

I'm also going to try to beef up the top mounts someway, I have a couple of ideas on how to do it. I'll let you ALL know when I do it.

:wave:Bye for now, it's my deased wife's Birthday and I've got to go with my daughter, grand and great-grand children to put some flowers on her cript then have a Birthday Party for her. It's a family thing.:love:
 
Cool ideal with Birthday! That's kind of different but I like the concept! And please do let me know what may work to beef up that area it get a lot of torture from getting in and out and especially from a guy like me a little on the heavier side! Thx have a great day!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thank Dan
 

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