Help! Sudden Overheating -

[atx_xlr]

I have an 04, that just turned 70k. I am guessing that the electric fan is not coming on. I replaced the thermostat and the 40AMP Electric Cooling Fan JFuse. Where do I go from here?

She does fine when moving, but in traffic, she will, heat up to the message in the DIC "Engine Hot(somthing like that) - A/C Off" I will get her rolling again and the temp drops below 220 fairly quickly. (sure miss belt driven fans!)

I am more of a DIYer...(prob not a good idea but I like to know how things work). I bought the cooling fan relay but don't know where to look for it, my Alldata DIY does not show it's location. Any ideas? Any guidance is welcome. Getting worried I am going to ruin the engine.

 

[xlrlist01]

I have an 04, that just turned 70k. I am guessing that the electric fan is not coming on. I replaced the thermostat and the 40AMP Electric Cooling Fan JFuse. Where do I go from here?

She does fine when moving, but in traffic, she will, heat up to the message in the DIC "Engine Hot(somthing like that) - A/C Off" I will get her rolling again and the temp drops below 220 fairly quickly. (sure miss belt driven fans!)

I am more of a DIYer...(prob not a good idea but I like to know how things work). I bought the cooling fan relay but don't know where to look for it, my Alldata DIY does not show it's location. Any ideas? Any guidance is welcome. Getting worried I am going to ruin the engine.

What evidence do you have that the fan is working? They fail (mine did). The fix was a new fan. The thermostat is unlikely to help much, the fan is controlled by the ECM, which measures engine temperature from a sensor. With a Tech-2 you can command the ECM to command the fan on and see if it comes on.

 

[Cesar17]

[FONT=&quot]Take the grille off and remove the hard black plastic attach to the grille hard to explain it but you will see , this is going to allow air flow to the engine compartment. My 2005 XLR never reach 200° after I removed this piece, also I install a power steering cooler . Yesterday 95° + Florida .[/FONT]

 

[redvett94]

I wouldn't advise to do that as the air flow would go into the engine compartment instead of through the radiator. Corvettes and of course the XLR are bottom feeder cooling systems and altering the air flow will interfere with cooling. Yesterday it was 112F here in AZ and we drove to the valley (Phoenix) and even in traffic and 5% humidity my XLR never got up to the 200F mark. I suspect you have a under performing radiator. BTW my thermostat is the OEM 195F.

 

[Gord]

I wouldn't advise to do that as the air flow would go into the engine compartment instead of through the radiator. Corvettes and of course the XLR are bottom feeder cooling systems and altering the air flow will interfere with cooling. Yesterday it was 112F here in AZ and we drove to the valley (Phoenix) and even in traffic and 5% humidity my XLR never got up to the 200F mark. I suspect you have a under performing radiator. BTW my thermostat is the OEM 195F.

I'd tend to concur with that, and in the pictures in the other thread ( https://www.xlr-net.com/forums/cadi...out-to-be-on-my-4th-water-pump.html#post86581 ) ... it would be really interesting to set up a manometer and an anemometer to see just what sort of air pressure and flow you'd get behind that cooler with that mod.

Keyword in airflow is 'flow' and I just don't see a whole lot of place for air to exit. Under performing rad, coolant, water pump or thermostat perhaps? I'd probably ditch the front license plate holder first and foremost if it's not really needed.

JMHO.

Gord

 

[IAN]

ATX XLR

The XLR is a cool car however this aluminium motor is design to run hot, the aluminium makes that this material cools faster then the iron of other motor.

Proper coolant and pressure in the system, the proper oils to maintain the motor/transmission cooler are a must in an area were the weather is very hot.

A uncleaned radiator and condenser contribute to increase the motor temperature of the coolant and the transmission oil.

The water pump and the thermostat serviced is a must, not doing so, it would increase the temperature of the coolant.

The module of the fan works closely with the engine module (including sensors ) and it speed will varied from slow to very fast depending the oill motor/tranmission and the coolant needed temperature or pressure

Find how it function with the ECM, ( if all grounds are cleans ). having work shop manual and a scanner thech2 would be ideal to fix your XLR problem.

PS. The fuse is also #25 60A, on this diagram it shows #32 40A

IAN

 

[redvett94]

GM tests all their vehicles at the Yuma Proving Grounds in 13% humidity @ 113F and above they have a 3 sided cement block walls 12' high and run vehicles at idle with A/C on and monitor many sensors for a minimum of 8 hours sitting still, they must pass this and other standards before going to production. If your XLR cannot operate at say 95F and 50-60% humidity you definitely have a radiator,cooling fan issue. If the fan blew a fuse check the fan motor is going bad.