Where to get physical sample of "Satin Nickel" paint chip, aka "Shale Metallic", aka WA130B?

[grue]

I've potentially located a part that I'd like to purchase but cannot personally inspect and compare to my car. A friend is willing to go check it out but I'd like to make sure that it's the correct paint code because silver or grey is notoriously hard to photograph and display accurately. GM apparently discontinued use of this color after the 2005 model year across their entire range, so I'm not really sure how to go about finding a sample that I can send to my friend after comparing to my car to make sure it's a 100% match.

Any suggestions?

 

[mickeytee]

paint match

I've potentially located a part that I'd like to purchase but cannot personally inspect and compare to my car. A friend is willing to go check it out but I'd like to make sure that it's the correct paint code because silver or grey is notoriously hard to photograph and display accurately. GM apparently discontinued use of this color after the 2005 model year across their entire range, so I'm not really sure how to go about finding a sample that I can send to my friend after comparing to my car to make sure it's a 100% match.

Any suggestions?

Even if the same paint code, I doubt you will get a 100% match. Paint is applied in such a way that a door from one car will always look off if swapped for a door of the same paint code . If it was a vin in the next order of manufacture you might get lucky. a year apart ? I doubt it. Better just count on having it painted and depending on what panel the shop will want to blend the paint on the 2 adjacent panels to camouflage the mismatch By the way that color has 24 variances in 2 paint manufactures I looked at .

 

[grue]

Even if the same paint code, I doubt you will get a 100% match. Paint is applied in such a way that a door from one car will always look off if swapped for a door of the same paint code . If it was a vin in the next order of manufacture you might get lucky. a year apart ? I doubt it. Better just count on having it painted and depending on what panel the shop will want to blend the paint on the 2 adjacent panels to camouflage the mismatch By the way that color has 24 variances in 2 paint manufactures I looked at .

Oog. That doesn't bode well, then. Probably not worth the effort I guess, I'm just trying to get it ready for sale and the damage is mostly out of sight anyway (underside of the fender, behind the passenger front wheel) so maybe it won't affect the trade-in or sale price too horribly. Definitely not interested in paying $1500-2k to have the panel repaired and then the paint work done, but $750 for a new fender seemed worth it.

 

[05 GRAND DADDY]

Oog. That doesn't bode well, then. Probably not worth the effort I guess, I'm just trying to get it ready for sale and the damage is mostly out of sight anyway (underside of the fender, behind the passenger front wheel) so maybe it won't affect the trade-in or sale price too horribly. Definitely not interested in paying $1500-2k to have the panel repaired and then the paint work done, but $750 for a new fender seemed worth it.

My personal opinion from being a painter over the years, they would normally recommend painting the whole side of the car. Blending at the edge line along the hood and trunk will not be as noticable as just painting a door, fender or whatever body part. Sorry...but if youwant a professional look that the recommendation.

 

[CNC]

Hmm? Vehicle Painting.

My personal opinion from being a painter over the years, they would normally recommend painting the whole side of the car. Blending at the edge line along the hood and trunk will not be as noticable as just painting a door, fender or whatever body part. Sorry...but if youwant a professional look that the recommendation.

Interesting stuff. I just, and I mean just, as in yesterday, finished painting the drivers side of my truck. Majestic Blue Metallic.
Did it in my garage with everything draped off in plastic and the floor wetted down. No body damage, but the clear coat was beginning to fail. Didn't want to use the compressor or air spray gun (yes I do have them) or do anything to potentially raise dust. I found a company in New Orleans called "Automotive Touch Up Direct". They mix color factory numbers into aerosol spray cans. It is an Acrylic Urethane base coat. Then I went over the four base coats with a 2K Activated Urethane Clear Coat. You activate the can mix with a red button you place on the bottom of the can, then push down. I also bought their pistol grip for aerosol cans. Worked a treat!

First I washed the whole truck with Dawn in warm water to remove any grease or contaminates. Then sanded the body panels with #600 Grit Wet, Soaked the paper in a bucket of water overnight. Block sanded at right angles. Nooks and cranny's with paper folded in my fingers. Kept wetting with a spritzer bottle of water as I went. Cleaned the panels. Then I laid down 4 coats of base color. In between each coat after allowing 20 minutes to flash off, I'd wipe it down again with a Tack Cloth. Then after letting the base coat cure overnight, I laid down 3 coats of the 2K Clear. Again, tack cloth wiping between coats after waiting 20 minutes each time between coats.

If there are any little 'Nibs' in the base coat, IF (?) it's a metallic, DO NOT SAND THE BASE COATS!. Doing so messes up the metallic texture that then it looks horrible after you clear coat. --- Did I have 'nibs'? Yes. But the clear coat took care of 80% of them. Then when the clear was totally cured (2 days later, 48hrs.), I started color sanding. I don't know why they call it this because you are sanding the Clear Coat, not the color coat. This removes any Orange Peel and Nibs. Went over it with #800 Grit Wet. Then with #1500 Grit Wet. Then with #2000 Grit Wet. Then started buffing using a 6" Dual Action Electric Buffer with a firm foam pad and Maguire's Buffing Compound. The #800 Grit Wet and The #1500 Grit Wet took care of the remaining nibs. The 2000 grit began polishing the finish a bit. Buffer did the rest.

The company that supplied me the aerosol paint cans was 'great'. They drilled down when I called them asking me how old the truck was and did it sit outside most of the time? Ans. yes. They mixed the paint to the original factory color and modified it some for the age of the truck and to the fact that it sat outside. And the color match? I would say 95% dead on! Absolutely looks great! The driver's side doors (front and back) though are now a 'smidgen' darker than the adjacent panels. I plan to now power buff those adjacent panels to bring the shine up to make it even less noticeable. Right now, most people would not be able to detect this difference. That is how close the paint match is. Very very pleased with Automotive Touch Up Direct. Even more so by the fact that their base coat paint is Acrylic Urethane as opposed to Acrylic Lacquer. Plus are the big aerosol cans. I used their two part 2K Urethane clear coat provides superior hardness and protection and lays down fine over the Acrylic Urethane base coat.

Yes, I wore a respirator as well as wetting the floor down. Wiped down the panels with 92% Rubbing Alcohol. Masked everything off. Then wiped them down again with the alcohol. Then the Tack Cloth. Spray a coat. Wait 20 minutes, wipe it down again with the Tack Cloth, then the next coat, etc. Had to sand out a few small runs from the clear (3ea.). If you mess up when clearing and you get a run, leave it alone until totally dry! Then fix it. Wet sand it out with #600 and #800 and Re-Clear if necessary.

I had four cans of the base coat. Used 3.5 cans for the 4ea. for base coats. Had two cans of the Urethane 2K (activated) clear. Barely got three coats. Should have gotten 3 cans of the clear from them, but I did 'just make it'. --- FYI, this is a lot of work!

 

[grue]

My personal opinion from being a painter over the years, they would normally recommend painting the whole side of the car. Blending at the edge line along the hood and trunk will not be as noticable as just painting a door, fender or whatever body part. Sorry...but if youwant a professional look that the recommendation.

Yeah that's going to cost thousands upon thousands. No way in hell is that worth doing vs just taking a hit on the sale value for damage that isn't in plain view.

Oh well, can't win 'em all.

 

[05 GRAND DADDY]

Interesting stuff. I just, and I mean just, as in yesterday, finished painting the drivers side of my truck. Majestic Blue Metallic.
Did it in my garage with everything draped off in plastic and the floor wetted down. No body damage, but the clear coat was beginning to fail. Didn't want to use the compressor or air spray gun (yes I do have them) or do anything to potentially raise dust. I found a company in New Orleans called "Automotive Touch Up Direct". They mix color factory numbers into aerosol spray cans. It is an Acrylic Urethane base coat. Then I went over the four base coats with a 2K Activated Urethane Clear Coat. You activate the can mix with a red button you place on the bottom of the can, then push down. I also bought their pistol grip for aerosol cans. Worked a treat!

First I washed the whole truck with Dawn in warm water to remove any grease or contaminates. Then sanded the body panels with #600 Grit Wet, Soaked the paper in a bucket of water overnight. Block sanded at right angles. Nooks and cranny's with paper folded in my fingers. Kept wetting with a spritzer bottle of water as I went. Cleaned the panels. Then I laid down 4 coats of base color. In between each coat after allowing 20 minutes to flash off, I'd wipe it down again with a Tack Cloth. Then after letting the base coat cure overnight, I laid down 3 coats of the 2K Clear. Again, tack cloth wiping between coats after waiting 20 minutes each time between coats.

If there are any little 'Nibs' in the base coat, IF (?) it's a metallic, DO NOT SAND THE BASE COATS!. Doing so messes up the metallic texture that then it looks horrible after you clear coat. --- Did I have 'nibs'? Yes. But the clear coat took care of 80% of them. Then when the clear was totally cured (2 days later, 48hrs.), I started color sanding. I don't know why they call it this because you are sanding the Clear Coat, not the color coat. This removes any Orange Peel and Nibs. Went over it with #800 Grit Wet. Then with #1500 Grit Wet. Then with #2000 Grit Wet. Then started buffing using a 6" Dual Action Electric Buffer with a firm foam pad and Maguire's Buffing Compound. The #800 Grit Wet and The #1500 Grit Wet took care of the remaining nibs. The 2000 grit began polishing the finish a bit. Buffer did the rest.

The company that supplied me the aerosol paint cans was 'great'. They drilled down when I called them asking me how old the truck was and did it sit outside most of the time? Ans. yes. They mixed the paint to the original factory color and modified it some for the age of the truck and to the fact that it sat outside. And the color match? I would say 95% dead on! Absolutely looks great! The driver's side doors (front and back) though are now a 'smidgen' darker than the adjacent panels. I plan to now power buff those adjacent panels to bring the shine up to make it even less noticeable. Right now, most people would not be able to detect this difference. That is how close the paint match is. Very very pleased with Automotive Touch Up Direct. Even more so by the fact that their base coat paint is Acrylic Urethane as opposed to Acrylic Lacquer. Plus are the big aerosol cans. I used their two part 2K Urethane clear coat provides superior hardness and protection and lays down fine over the Acrylic Urethane base coat.

Yes, I wore a respirator as well as wetting the floor down. Wiped down the panels with 92% Rubbing Alcohol. Masked everything off. Then wiped them down again with the alcohol. Then the Tack Cloth. Spray a coat. Wait 20 minutes, wipe it down again with the Tack Cloth, then the next coat, etc. Had to sand out a few small runs from the clear (3ea.). If you mess up when clearing and you get a run, leave it alone until totally dry! Then fix it. Wet sand it out with #600 and #800 and Re-Clear if necessary.

I had four cans of the base coat. Used 3.5 cans for the 4ea. for base coats. Had two cans of the Urethane 2K (activated) clear. Barely got three coats. Should have gotten 3 cans of the clear from them, but I did 'just make it'. --- FYI, this is a lot of work!

Congrats on a fine job with spray cans! You bring back some 40 year memories......LOL
Spray cans have come along way since back then, today’s technogy has come along way too! Sounds like you did everything about right to get a top notch job for the way you performed the painting! Thanks for sharing! Have a good new year!