The DIC switches have small, DC bulbs soldered to the circuit boards the membrane switches connect with to activate the selected function. They are fairly unreliable, and I replaced three sets of switches to keep everything looking good on the dash over a seven-year period.
LEDs with load resistors are definitely the way to go for long life and reliability. (Hint, hint . . .)
The left side switch assembly that your friend needs (1035594) is discontinued. The Right side (15511060 - Switch, Driver Information Display) is still available for around $20 plus shipping online.
You are correct - the left and right side DIC switch assemblies are fairly cheap. They are easy to remove and replace. Here's how:
1) Remove the knee bolster panel just below the steering column. First, carefully pry out the fuel door and rear compartment lid release switches using a plastic trim tool on the release tab at the lower side of the switch assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector to the switch housing. On the knee bolster panel. there are two fasteners at the bottom and some clips that hold it in place, so you just need to pull it straight out.
2) Remove the retaining screw from the bottom of the switch trim housing that is exposed when the knee bolster panel is removed. (This applies to either side switch assembly.)
3) Remove the three fasteners that secure the switch assembly and disconnect the connector from the back of the switch assembly.
4) Reverse the steps to install the replacement assembly.
This is a pretty easy job - thirty minutes or so . . A little longer, if you like to drink beer when you work on cars like me. . .
The hardest part is crawling under the dash to get at the two knee bolster retaining screws. I've got 6mm heads in my notes but someone else did this recently and said theirs were 7mm, so report back to make this procedure as accurate as possible for the next person.
CC