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07 liquid amethyst interior color match / material ???

lextoy

Seasoned Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2014
Messages
353
Location
philadelphia
My XLR/V(s)
2007 Liquid Amethyst
as you can see in my pictures, it looks like the vinyl ??? or leather ?? cover on my convertible top outer panel got melted and shrank. so angry, this car is almost never in the sun!!!!!!:mad:
of course on gmpartsdirect, it is only available in ebony, but mine is the platinum edition, liquid amethyst, and this color is definitely more plum purple, not ebony.
so any of you guys think i can remove this part and heat/ stretch and reglue the original vinyl?
or a good interior shop can match the color and grain on the vinyl?
who can i contact at caddy for original material manufacturer?
also do you think perhaps a tip to the dealer with VIN # may turn up the part ? since the platinum was so limited, there cant be alot of them that needed this part, and the color code is light cashmere... not even regular cashmere... it seems the online parts suppliers dont get into the nitty gritty of all the variations on parts on their websites.
IMG_20160908_155938_083.jpgIMG_20160908_155947_089.jpg
 
ebony part is [h=1]OUTER PANEL, RIGHT - 2007 CADILLAC XLR (88956627)[/h]
#6/7 in the schematic.
ad7aac7af5305fa10caf048cef20b9cf.png
 
btw, the vinyl that is shrunken/ melted , almost looks like it was burned with a heat gun, and is hard as a rock. not sure i can soften or stretch it at all...
 
as you can see in my pictures, it looks like the vinyl ??? or leather ?? cover on my convertible top outer panel got melted and shrank. so angry, this car is almost never in the sun!!!!!!:mad:
of course on gmpartsdirect, it is only available in ebony, but mine is the platinum edition, liquid amethyst, and this color is definitely more plum purple, not ebony.
so any of you guys think i can remove this part and heat/ stretch and reglue the original vinyl?
or a good interior shop can match the color and grain on the vinyl?
who can i contact at caddy for original material manufacturer?
also do you think perhaps a tip to the dealer with VIN # may turn up the part ? since the platinum was so limited, there cant be alot of them that needed this part, and the color code is light cashmere... not even regular cashmere... it seems the online parts suppliers dont get into the nitty gritty of all the variations on parts on their websites.
View attachment 6665View attachment 6666

Awhile back I went my dealer about this area. But mine was due to a bent rod. I was looking at replacing my whole panel. But my service guy said he could bend the rod back in place. But since yours is the leather. I would see if your dealer can recommend a good leather place.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ok next question... anybody think theres an easy way to remove this panel ? so i can drop it off at a shop?? repair probably not doable on the car...
is it screwed on from the bottom, so i could leave the frame in? just pull off the panel ...
or have to unbolt the frame piece with it, like the schematic shows...
 
ok next question... anybody think theres an easy way to remove this panel ? so i can drop it off at a shop?? repair probably not doable on the car...
is it screwed on from the bottom, so i could leave the frame in? just pull off the panel ...
or have to unbolt the frame piece with it, like the schematic shows...

I don't know the answer, but maybe pause while you're putting the top up as the point that part is raised up, & you should be able to check out how it's attached.

Sorry for your situation - that stinks!
 

I would bet an automotive upholstery shop can fix it. Looks like you are right, it's just lost it's glue and is separating.
 
These flaps go by several aliases: Front Tonneau Flaps/Wings, Front Closeout Panel Flaps/Wings are the most common. "Batwings", "Flappers", " and "Flippy Things" are the street names.

I had to use vinyl prep to adhere the backing of my wind blocker mount. The covering I believe is pleather - stamped vinyl, and the roll bars are leather-covered.

The flaps are really easy to remove/replace. You don't need to drop your car off. You can chauffer the flaps around!

Here's how:

You'll need a light source, (for inside the trunk) Driver Set, Grease Pencil, in/lb Torque Wrench, Beer.

Disassembly

1. Ensure the top is in the raised position.
2. Turn the hydraulic Bypass Valve in the left/rear compartment of the trunk CW until it stops.
3. Open the rear deck lid and lower the center partition so you can climb inside and lay on your back.
4. Locate the underside of the flap. Note the two inside, outside brackets with fasteners holding the flap to the links. Use the grease pencil to draw outlines around the two fasteners on the forward/inside link. There are another two on the rear side of that bracket. The forward-positioned fasteners hold a flat, locating pin in place. Record their position for ease of alignment for reassembly.
5. Remove the two forward/inside bracket fasteners.
6. Remove the locating pin.
7. Remove the two outside bracket fasteners.
8. Drop the flap off for rejuvenation.
9. Return home for as many beers as required.

Reassembly

1. Apply locktite blue to all fasteners before installation.
2. Position the flap.
3. Install the two outside retaining fasteners. Do not tighten.
4. Install the remaining four inside bracket fasteners in place. Do not tighten.
5. Align the flap on the outlines of the fasteners from step Disassembly step 3 and tighten to 44 in/lb.
6. Tighten the remaining four fasteners to 44 in/lb.
7. Verify alignment from the exterior.
8. Turn the Hydraulic Bypass Valve fully CCW.
9. Celebrate with what else, beer!

CC :wave:
 
Last edited:
thx cc
one question
why am i loosening the hydraulic? wouldnt that prevent the trunk from opening/ staying open??
am i pulling that little panel into or out of its position at any point??
is that why?
i am guessing maybe easier to NOT loosen the hydraulic and just work on the panel from the bottom, in its full closed position
attempting not to screw up the alignment of the brackets etc, then reinstall exactly the same...
 
1. Disabling the hydraulic system prevents the trunk lid from inadvertently closing while you're in there, if someone were to press the trunk close button accidently. It's a safety thing.
2. You're removing the flap while it's in position without any hydraulics applied to the front tonneau/front closeout panels.
3. Your assumption is correct.

CC :wave:
 

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