We hang in there we are all in a learning curve and somthing tell's me this will be an ongoing learning lesson. I suppose I should be upset but one of the reason I bought this car is something to work on, polish the rims, clean up the interior, make the head light lenses clear clay bar and ceramic coat. So let's see rim done lights done interior done. Car to drive..... I will win no matter how much it cost!
Sharing information here. My check engine light kept coming on. Code P0174 "System Too Lean". I searched everywhere and tested everything. There were no vacuum leaks. None! The mass air sensor tested good. O2 sensors (4 ea.) all tested good. Gas cap tested good. Usually what causes a 'too lean code' is often, but not always, a vacuum leak. Outside air invading the fuel mixture somewhere. In short, I had ruled out every possible mechanical thing I could find that would set this code? To no avail. It kept coming on.
Finally took it to my Cadillac Dealer. They hooked up their Tech II Code Reader to The ECM. Found that the original XLR Settings had never been "re-flashed' (re-set) and their was a Service Bulletin on it at the dealership. They re-set The ECM using their Tech II and no more P0174 Code and no more check engine light on. Yea!Cost? $168.00. --- FYI, they also checked everything I had previously checked, and like me, found no issues with those items.
Someone asked about the VCX NANO; I haven't had my car back to test it on the car, but I finally got the software to load the trick is to go to the Java site and use that first then load from allscanners site for the most receint software. Next week will be testing on the car if and that is a big IF the ecm works as programed.
The VCX nano was not very effective sent it back and bought another tech2 clone. I think why the other one blew
Looks like a good choice, let know if it meets your expectations.
Gm part number is GM 12573350 if the maf is hard to install it is the wrong one.https://www.ebay.com/itm/353523614573?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D I had to break out the end where it attaches to the rubber seal at the diffuser just to remove it. Got mine from Ebay but can not find the order now shop around I paid less than $50. for mine Amazon is three time that amount Rockauto has one and it is the 213-1548. If that did not correct I would check for vaccum leaks, the engine will speed up at the leak. You spray brake cleaner on all areas that have a rubber seal, diffuser, throttle body intake manifold, all rubber connections. I would also if you have the tools would pull the manifold reseal and clean and o ring the injectors. That maf is shorter and smaller in diameter than the others and the sensor is blocked not wide open you know it is the right one becase the diffuser will go in easly at the round rubber hold downs. That fustrates even the best xlr machanics I spent hundreds of dollars trying to get it corrected. Also one the gets missed is the hose coming off the valve cover to diffuser and the dirty arm coming from the back of the manifold. Check the difuser the bottom gets deformed where the connection to the throttle body. And while your at it clean the throttle body. A lot to take in but when it works you can not believe the feeling of fixing it! One last thing new filters!
Thank you for the details.
The air diffuser get crushed by the rubber connector when installing you must connect to the diffuser first then to the throttle body the angle will deform the air diffuser. I had the same condition on mine mainly because the MAF was wrong and to long making it diffuclt to make the connection. The main problems come from the plenum not being torqued, and the small hose coming off the right side valve cover to the air diffuser, and in my case wrong MAF.
