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DIC switch replacement

ahardb0dy

New Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2015
Messages
3
Location
sorrento, fl
Hello all, I searched the general and technical sections and did not find anything in regards to removing the trim parts to replace the DIC switch or whether or not the switch bulbs are actually replaceable.

Asking for a friend who has a 2005 XLR.

He says some of the bulbs are out in the reset and up/down buttons. I did read that we can replace the whole switch assembly and they appear to be fairly inexpensive but I wanted to ask if anyone has a write up on what parts and how they are removed to get to the DIC switch?

Thanks
 
The DIC switches have small, DC bulbs soldered to the circuit boards the membrane switches connect with to activate the selected function. They are fairly unreliable, and I replaced three sets of switches to keep everything looking good on the dash over a seven-year period.

LEDs with load resistors are definitely the way to go for long life and reliability. (Hint, hint . . .)

If it's the left side switch assembly that your friend needs for the HUD, (1035594) it's discontinued. The Right side (15511060 - Switch, Driver Information Display) is still available for around $20 plus shipping online.

You are correct - the left and right side DIC switch assemblies are fairly cheap. They are easy to remove and replace. Here's how:

1) Remove the knee bolster panel just below the steering column. First, carefully pry out the fuel door and rear compartment lid release switches using a plastic trim tool on the release tab at the lower side of the switch assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector to the switch housing. On the knee bolster panel. there are two fasteners at the bottom and some clips that hold it in place, so you just need to pull it straight out.

2) Remove the retaining screw from the bottom of the switch trim housing that is exposed when the knee bolster panel is removed. (This applies to either side switch assembly.)

3) Remove the three fasteners that secure the switch assembly and disconnect the connector from the back of the switch assembly.

4) Reverse the steps to install the replacement assembly.


This is a pretty easy job - thirty minutes or so . . A little longer, if you like to drink beer when you work on cars like me. . .

The hardest part is crawling under the dash to get at the two knee bolster retaining screws. I've got 6mm heads in my notes but someone else did this recently and said theirs were 7mm, so report back to make this procedure as accurate as possible for the next person.

CC :wave:
 
Last edited:
Thanks, appreciate the reply. Searched online last night with the car owner and all we found was how to remove the radio. The switches with the bulbs out are all on the right side. I told him the switch assembly was inexpensive and sent him a link with the part number and told him I would swap the switch out. I'm not afraid ! having removed the whole dash on my previous Nissan.

Thanks again.
 
That was me that has 7mm screws on the bottom of the knee bolster. Curious to know what ahardb0dy finds on the 05 XLR
 
The car and it's owner are down in Key West on a short vacation. I told him I would swap the switch if he gets it. If he does I'll post back on the screw head size.
 
The DIC switches have small, DC bulbs soldered to the circuit boards the membrane switches connect with to activate the selected function. They are fairly unreliable, and I replaced three sets of switches to keep everything looking good on the dash over a seven-year period.

LEDs with load resistors are definitely the way to go for long life and reliability. (Hint, hint . . .)

The left side switch assembly that your friend needs (1035594) is discontinued. The Right side (15511060 - Switch, Driver Information Display) is still available for around $20 plus shipping online.

You are correct - the left and right side DIC switch assemblies are fairly cheap. They are easy to remove and replace. Here's how:

1) Remove the knee bolster panel just below the steering column. First, carefully pry out the fuel door and rear compartment lid release switches using a plastic trim tool on the release tab at the lower side of the switch assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector to the switch housing. On the knee bolster panel. there are two fasteners at the bottom and some clips that hold it in place, so you just need to pull it straight out.

2) Remove the retaining screw from the bottom of the switch trim housing that is exposed when the knee bolster panel is removed. (This applies to either side switch assembly.)

3) Remove the three fasteners that secure the switch assembly and disconnect the connector from the back of the switch assembly.

4) Reverse the steps to install the replacement assembly.


This is a pretty easy job - thirty minutes or so . . A little longer, if you like to drink beer when you work on cars like me. . .

The hardest part is crawling under the dash to get at the two knee bolster retaining screws. I've got 6mm heads in my notes but someone else did this recently and said theirs were 7mm, so report back to make this procedure as accurate as possible for the next person.

CC :wave:
CC you still and always have astonished me.

Your depth of knowledge and writing ability in light of the fact that you no longer own your XLR is amazing.

If you ever leave, I'm leaving CC.

As these cars age you are most valuable resource any of us have.
 
CC you still and always have astonished me.

Your depth of knowledge and writing ability in light of the fact that you no longer own your XLR is amazing.

If you ever leave, I'm leaving CC.

As these cars age you are most valuable resource any of us have.

As Smoky Robinson said - "I second that emotion"! I'm a newbie on here and not too mechanically inclined (and lazy) but have been able to determine in a couple of months of reading posts on here that CC is The Guru of XLR's. Sure hope he keeps checking in to help keep us all operable.
 
CC is our M V P ,,,,,,

CC you still and always have astonished me.

Your depth of knowledge and writing ability in light of the fact that you no longer own your XLR is amazing.

If you ever leave, I'm leaving CC.

As these cars age you are most valuable resource any of us have.


The sentiments of the entire XLR community that reads this forum.... CC is a highly valuable information source!!

We my need to offer CC a 10 year, no cut, no trade, big $$$ contract to keep returning to our XLR team and advising us shade-tree mechanics before we ruin something while trying to repair.

Thanks again CC ,,,, if I had your address, I'd put you on my Christmas card list
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p z
 
Right back at you all. . .

You can thank me best by drinking more beer.

CC :wave:
 
Over the lips and to the gut,,,

the-most-interesting-man-in-the-world.jpg



I'll drink to that ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
drink.gif
 
Funny thing how stuff works out. Last night driving the X noticed the lights on the right side DIC switches had gone off on the up/down button and before I got home the reset button had gone off. Found one at NewGMParts Online for less than 20$ and only 9 dollars shipping. Sometimes shipping costs are more than the part you want. Found one at another online site, 19$ for the part and $18 shipping.

Rex
 
So I'm working on sprucing up the XLR, and my right side lights are out. A quick search for pn 15511060 gives nothing. I looked on GMPARTSDIRECT and the 15251160 looks like the right part number? Anyone can shed some light on this disparity I would appreciate it.

Also, CC mentioned that LED would be the way to go. Not sure how you could change out those DC lights to LED?
 
So I'm working on sprucing up the XLR, and my right side lights are out. A quick search for pn 15511060 gives nothing. I looked on GMPARTSDIRECT and the 15251160 looks like the right part number? Anyone can shed some light on this disparity I would appreciate it.
Also, CC mentioned that LED would be the way to go. Not sure how you could change out those DC lights to LED?

The right side DIC buttons went out on me about 2 months after purchasing the car. 15251160 is the correct P/N. The lights are incandescent. It's a job I don't care about trying to do. Once you replace it, take it apart. You can see then how much a pain it would be.
CC has a nice write up on one of my threads about replacing this switch as I had asked him for procedures last year if you need to see how to. If it's still available somewhere, you might get the HUD switch for the left side panel. I understand they may be out of stock. I bought one the same time I bought my right side DIC switch "just in case". I also have one door switch "just in case.
 

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