Gas Cap Door Solenoid

[Cadiblk]

The solenoid to my gas cap door has failed. The finger will retract, but it wont pop back out which prevents the door from being secured. Has anyone else attempted this repair themselves? From the info I could obtain it seems like this solenoid is pretty difficult to get to.

 

[ald42]

gas door

The solenoid to my gas cap door has failed. The finger will retract, but it wont pop back out which prevents the door from being secured. Has anyone else attempted this repair themselves? From the info I could obtain it seems like this solenoid is pretty difficult to get to.

not hard repair at all,remove tire,inner fender(only a few screws) and cable is exposed and you'll see the end that goes into filler area.don't take out the cable just the end that has the plunger.i think the return spring in the plunger is broken,take plunger apart & replace spring.can get them at home depot.when putting in spring put some light grease or Vaseline on it.the spring fails because it rusts & breaks.

 

[Cadiblk]

Thank you. I will give it a shot. Am I reading correctly that I am to leave the cable connected but remove the solenoid? Thanks again.

 

[ald42]

Thank you. I will give it a shot. Am I reading correctly that I am to leave the cable connected but remove the solenoid? Thanks again.

No,just take the end at the filler out into the wheel well and work on it there,it saves you from taking the whole cable out.the solenoid is on the other end back into the trunk.keep us posted.PM me and i'll give you my phone # we can talk when your into it if you get stuck.

 

[Cadiblk]

Thank you so much for the offer. I will hopefully be working on this either this upcoming weekend or the next. I will send you a PM.

Thanks again

 

[Cadiblk]

I finally got around to fixing this issue and have to thank ald42 for the excellent advice. This was a fairly straight forward fix that, with the proper instruction (thanks again). I removed the drivers side rear wheel, and then the inner fender wall. Next I removed the nut for the gas door latch. There is enough cable for the latch to hang below the wheel cut out. The latch assembly is connected with two small plastic tabs and easily separates. Inside I could see where the cable connects to the gas door finger that moves in and out to open and latch the door. There is also a spring that was intact, but did not have much resistance left. Initially, I put in a spacer to give the spring more tension which worked. After speaking to ald42 I found a replacement spring and removed the spacers. The door is working as designed now and it only took about an hour for me to disassemble, fix, and reassemble the vehicle. Thank you again ald42!!

 

[Crimson Pearl]

ANOTHER great reason that THIS is one of the BEST forums around!

GREAT information freely shared really improves the XLR owner experience!

 

[ald42]

I finally got around to fixing this issue and have to thank ald42 for the excellent advice. This was a fairly straight forward fix that, with the proper instruction (thanks again). I removed the drivers side rear wheel, and then the inner fender wall. Next I removed the nut for the gas door latch. There is enough cable for the latch to hang below the wheel cut out. The latch assembly is connected with two small plastic tabs and easily separates. Inside I could see where the cable connects to the gas door finger that moves in and out to open and latch the door. There is also a spring that was intact, but did not have much resistance left. Initially, I put in a spacer to give the spring more tension which worked. After speaking to ald42 I found a replacement spring and removed the spacers. The door is working as designed now and it only took about an hour for me to disassemble, fix, and reassemble the vehicle. Thank you again ald42!!

Glad I could help and now you're a pro at this!!

 

[xlrlist01]

The solenoid to my gas cap door has failed. The finger will retract, but it wont pop back out which prevents the door from being secured. Has anyone else attempted this repair themselves? From the info I could obtain it seems like this solenoid is pretty difficult to get to.

Here is how to lubricate the solenoid.

Outline:
Remove driver's side rear wheel.
Remove wheelhouse liner (a large number of screws ~11 and two stud retainers)
Remove trunk inner side trim (no need to remove carpet but you do need to remove the sill plate) disconnect the light, one T15 undoes the plastic trim on the divider bracket (there are no other catches, it pulls apart), disconnect switch cable, three retainers; work the two manual release handles through the fabric (mine was glued over).
Locate the solenoid, there is a single 10mm bolt holding it in place. It is hidden behind a bundle of hydraulic hoses. Standing outside your XLR, looking at the rear wheel, roughly it is at the 2 o'clock position.
Undo the latch from the filler, manipulate a section of the cable into the trunk. (Push it backwards)
I also disconnected the solenoid's electrical connector (from underneath).

That is the easy bit.

Now, move the solenoid rearwards. There is no room and the rubber sound deadening grips the solenoid in place. There is a small hook on the solenoid's fixing plate and this has to be pushed outwards at the same time as moving the unit rearwards. This is tricky.

Eventually, there is enough room to turn the unit upside down (rotate along its axis).

This reveals the design. There is a nylon tube with a figure-8 shaped nylon block running inside it. The solenoid pulls the top half and the manual release the bottom half.

I used a fine oil, putting a small amount onto a screwdriver blade so I dropped a controlled amount into the mechanism. Suddenly both the manual release and the return went easy and smooth, far better than it has ever been before. The gas filler door shuts more smoothly as well.

It was then a matter of reassembly, ensuring the right amount of cable was between the latch and where it goes inside the wheelhouse (into the trunk).

Removing the solenoid looks almost impossible hence lubricating the one already there.

 

[johnchasxlr]

not hard repair at all,remove tire,inner fender(only a few screws) and cable is exposed and you'll see the end that goes into filler area.don't take out the cable just the end that has the plunger.i think the return spring in the plunger is broken,take plunger apart & replace spring.can get them at home depot.when putting in spring put some light grease or Vaseline on it.the spring fails because it rusts & breaks.

Fixed my gas door release today, thank you are the info!

 

[Steve Lee]

Steve Lee

My button on the dash opens the gas door, but the pin stays in. I lubed it with WD40, and it didn't help. If I use the remote pull cable in the trunk, by pulling very slightly, and releasing one time, the pin comes out, and I can close the door and it latches.There is no slack in the cable, because I feel tension right from the "get-go" and the spring can be felt when you pull very slightly on the cable (with no play in it), so it seems the spring is good. It seems that the latch pin is hanging up? Does something need to lubed? What am I missing here? HELP!!! Even though It has tension, is it a weak spring?

 

[Cadiblk]

WD-40 isn’t much of a lube. It’s meant to displace water. I would try a light sewing machine oil first and / or adding a spacer. The problem with oils is diet and dust like to stock to them compounding your problem.

 

[Steve Lee]

gas door

WD-40 isn’t much of a lube. It’s meant to displace water. I would try a light sewing machine oil first and / or adding a spacer. The problem with oils is diet and dust like to stock to them compounding your problem.

I'm assuming that you mean taling the wheel off. and the fender inner panel, removing the latch end and adding a washer in front of the spring to add more tension; right? Or I could then install a new spring instead at that point?

 

[Cadiblk]

Yes. The washer did it for me. Try the light oil first. If it doesn’t work then go the washer route.

 

[xlrlist01]

My button on the dash opens the gas door, but the pin stays in. I lubed it with WD40, and it didn't help. If I use the remote pull cable in the trunk, by pulling very slightly, and releasing one time, the pin comes out, and I can close the door and it latches.There is no slack in the cable, because I feel tension right from the "get-go" and the spring can be felt when you pull very slightly on the cable (with no play in it), so it seems the spring is good. It seems that the latch pin is hanging up? Does something need to lubed? What am I missing here? HELP!!! Even though It has tension, is it a weak spring?

At post #9, I put what you have to do to lubricate the whole mechanism.

 

[Steve Lee]

gas door

Yes. The washer did it for me. Try the light oil first. If it doesn’t work then go the washer route.

I'll try the oil. Then if that doesn't do it, the wheel off, fender panel out, assy. out, and a new spring or add a washer to increase tension. Thank you!!

 

[Steve Lee]

I finally got around to fixing this issue and have to thank ald42 for the excellent advice. This was a fairly straight forward fix that, with the proper instruction (thanks again). I removed the drivers side rear wheel, and then the inner fender wall. Next I removed the nut for the gas door latch. There is enough cable for the latch to hang below the wheel cut out. The latch assembly is connected with two small plastic tabs and easily separates. Inside I could see where the cable connects to the gas door finger that moves in and out to open and latch the door. There is also a spring that was intact, but did not have much resistance left. Initially, I put in a spacer to give the spring more tension which worked. After speaking to ald42 I found a replacement spring and removed the spacers. The door is working as designed now and it only took about an hour for me to disassemble, fix, and reassemble the vehicle. Thank you again ald42!!

Great! But tell me, I have to do mine in the next few days.Are the wheel lugs all behind the little 3" cap that probably prys off??

 

[ccclarke]

Yes.

 

[Steve Lee]

Fuel door latch spring

I'll try the oil. Then if that doesn't do it, the wheel off, fender panel out, assy. out, and a new spring or add a washer to increase tension. Thank you!!

My car had no spring in there! I got one at the hardware store; 1/4" D. x 3/'8" long. It was about 1" +, but that was obviously too long, so I cut it down to 3/8". Is the too short? how long should it be? 1/2" ?????


"

 

[rexster314]

You might want to make a fresh post of your own instead of changing topic of the thread