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Important! My engine is being overhauled....as if the.key fob issue was not enough....

Did someone say LS427 ? I hope everything goes good for you. When a engine is contaminated with metal such as a nut and bolt a lot of stuff can happen other than the obvious. The motor is spinning at 1,000 to 1,500 Rpm's minimum when it starts and when contaminated. Those noises were your pistons smacking the nuts and bolts till they wedged in something then just kept deflecting till turned off. Then restarted. If you think water in gas is a problem amplify it by a million. Like Tim said cams, journals,bearings,valve guides,springs,etc. The engine is aluminum that nut and bolt are probably some sort of hardened metal. Metal is gonna win. That whole motor should be broken down inspected and mic'd. By the time that's done mine as well get a crate engine. I would only want to go through that experience once really never but cover all your basis. Don't let them tell you what's excepted. Call a machine shop and tell them what happened see what they say. Good luck.
 
The dealership is open on today and I got a chance to take a real good look at the damage and I will post pictures later this evening. From what I understand from other mechanics it was a steel nut and it was flattened and elongated when it was found. There is definite visual damage to one piston. I am going to have a sit down with service manager on Monday and insist that they install a new engine. At this point they have about $4000.00 already invested not including the repair. Spoke to the parts manager and he quoted me a price of $6689.00 for a new Norstar crate engine. At this point from a customer service standpoint, if would be in thier best interest to cut thier losses and just install a new engine.

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Go with the new engine. Don't know what kind of mileage you already have but that would make me feel better about the situation. Insist on a total inspection so the cheapest route for them is a new engine. Sounds like their a stand up service dept. Hope all goes well.
 
Go with the new engine. Don't know what kind of mileage you already have but that would make me feel better about the situation. Insist on a total inspection so the cheapest route for them is a new engine. Sounds like their a stand up service dept. Hope all goes well.

When I purchased the car it had 10k on the ido and I just turned 50K and the car is extremely well taken care of. The original owner was the Wife of the owner of the original Cadillac Dealership that odered the car, and there is a documented service history. They are looking at about $7K - $8K if they just do the repair, when I do the math its cheaper for them to just drop a new engine in, and it also makes a customer Service statement.

:cool:
 
I will be contacting GMPP Warranty on Monday and I will also try to contact Caron from Cadillac Customer Service. Here are a few close ups from the ICU of the head and piston.

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I would think they would be better off with the replacement along with you. Honestly there is a lot of carbon buildup are you putting 87 octane in. Check to see how much cross hatch is seen on the cylinder walls. Oil consumption is a problem with the northstar and aluminum blocks. Not having to seal the old engine will take some headache out of the project,along with trying to get all the radiator fluid and water out of the short block. Don't wanna spin any bearings. Was on eBay yesterday saw a crate 4.6 northstar brand new 3500 free shipping. Good luck
 
I would think they would be better off with the replacement along with you. Honestly there is a lot of carbon buildup are you putting 87 octane in. Check to see how much cross hatch is seen on the cylinder walls. Oil consumption is a problem with the northstar and aluminum blocks. Not having to seal the old engine will take some headache out of the project,along with trying to get all the radiator fluid and water out of the short block. Don't wanna spin any bearings. Was on eBay yesterday saw a crate 4.6 northstar brand new 3500 free shipping. Good luck

I also noticed the carbon build up, I have only been using Shell or Exxon premium, or Sunoco 97 when I can get it since I took ownership of the car. I will definitely push for a new engine, just seems to the right thing to do. Cut your losses put the new engine in and be done with it. There will be less issues down the road, hopefully for both of us.

:cool:
 
Had my sit down today with the shop manager and it went somewhat well. They are going to replace all 4 pistons, valves and head on theright side of the engine. While the pistons are removed that will check the block and all the internals. Then they will compression test the engine, if they cannot get the correct compression the engine will be replaced. If there is any other damage found then they will just replace the engine. If after all repairs are made and there are any issues, they will replace the engine. They gave me a 2012 Malibu as a loaner.

I still think at this point it would in everyones best interest to just replace the engine now. The shop manager said that he will get together with the general manager of the dealership to try to push the issue for a total engine replacement.

:cool:
 
Had my sit down today with the shop manager and it went somewhat well. They are going to replace all 4 pistons, valves and head on theright side of the engine. While the pistons are removed that will check the block and all the internals. Then they will compression test the engine, if they cannot get the correct compression the engine will be replaced. If there is any other damage found then they will just replace the engine. If after all repairs are made and there are any issues, they will replace the engine. They gave me a 2012 Malibu as a loaner.

I still think at this point it would in everyones best interest to just replace the engine now. The shop manager said that he will get together with the general manager of the dealership to try to push the issue for a total engine replacement.

:cool:

Sounds like a fair assessment. So far, it sounds like the dealership is working with you - glad to hear that. Thanks for keeping all of us abreast on what is going on - our group is like family and I'm sure I can speak for many of us on the forum here - we care about fellow forum members and are all hoping for a positive end result. :blinzel:

Good luck.
 
Sounds like a fair assessment. So far, it sounds like the dealership is working with you - glad to hear that. Thanks for keeping all of us abreast on what is going on - our group is like family and I'm sure I can speak for many of us on the forum here - we care about fellow forum members and are all hoping for a positive end result. :blinzel:

Good luck.

That they are, just have to wait and see it all plays out. Here are a few more pics from the ICU.
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I guess either way they say that they'll fix it. My question is what ever happened to efficiency,or logic. Maybe that's why GM went bankrupt. How long did they say till she's done? I hope they didn't pull the threads on that rear cylinder lifting it from a head bolt that already have problems with. Not good.
Good luck.
 
Wow! Thanks for sharing the story and for the great pictures. We're all with you! We hope your baby is fixed to your satisfaction, and SOON!!

We have a great forum here and I figured sharing this experience would be good chance to take a look at the inside of our cars. Also if anyone needs pictures of a specific part/area of the car, please let me know and I will try to get them before my baby is put back together.

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We have a great forum here and I figured sharing this experience would be good chance to take a look at the inside of our cars. Also if anyone needs pictures of a specific part/area of the car, please let me know and I will try to get them before my baby is put back together.

:cool:

Speaking of which... could you get a picture of exactly where the horn mounts up on the right side front? When I rebuilt mine, I just guessed at the mounting spot and would like to get it mounted correctly.
Thanks
 
Speaking of which... could you get a picture of exactly where the horn mounts up on the right side front? When I rebuilt mine, I just guessed at the mounting spot and would like to get it mounted correctly.
Thanks

Unfortunately I have already done my daily inspection for today, but I will get them and post them tomorrow.
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We have a great forum here and I figured sharing this experience would be good chance to take a look at the inside of our cars. Also if anyone needs pictures of a specific part/area of the car, please let me know and I will try to get them before my baby is put back together.

:cool:

Engine compartment! and the rear end of the car with the diff removed! thanks man!
 
Speaking of which... could you get a picture of exactly where the horn mounts up on the right side front? When I rebuilt mine, I just guessed at the mounting spot and would like to get it mounted correctly.
Thanks

Thanks a lot!!!
 
<snip>

Had my sit down today with the shop manager and it went somewhat well. They are going to replace all 4 pistons, valves and head on theright side of the engine. While the pistons are removed that will check the block and all the internals. <snip>
I still think at this point it would in everyones best interest to just replace the engine now. The shop manager said that he will get together with the general manager of the dealership to try to push the issue for a total engine replacement.

:cool:
1) If they have taken your engine down as far as they intend to, it'll be nigh unto impossible for them to check for damage to the crank timing, etc... Checking/replacing the exhaust cam and cam chain on the right bank should be a no-brainer.
2) I am struck by what appears in your pic's to be cam wear on the GOOD side. What kind of oil have you been running?
3) Perhaps the carbon buildup could be addressed w/ a good "Italian Tuneup"; i.e., flogging it for about a half hour at high intensity accelerations and RPMs. Sure works for high-performance motorcycles!
4) Does this engine NOT have designated lift points?

Caron, will Cadillac please have an XLR Tech review this project??? :rolleyes:

Tim
 
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1) If they have taken your engine down as far as they intend to, it'll be nigh unto impossible for them to check for damage to the crank timing, etc... Checking/replacing the exhaust cam and cam chain on the right bank should be a no-brainer.
2) I am struck by what appears in your pic's to be cam wear on the GOOD side. What kind of oil have you been running?
3) Perhaps the carbon buildup could be addressed w/ a good "Italian Tuneup"; i.e., flogging it for about a half hour at high intensity accelerations and RPMs. Sure works for high-performance motorcycles!
4) Does this engine NOT have designated lift points?

Caron, will Cadillac please have an XLR Tech review this project??? :rolleyes:

Tim

I am out of my element when it comes to engines, I am unaware of any damage on the cams on the undamaged side of the engine. I am only using Mobil1 as directed, and all of my oil changes thus far have been done by this dealer. Their shop is not equipped to rebuild Northstar engines, since they are a GM/GMC/Chevrolet/Buick dealership. I am glad that they have the common sense to know thier limitations and not compound the problem. At this point the new heads and block are at a reputable professional engine builder to have the heads and pistons installed and compression tested. I also had an independent SAE mechanic, who is a good friend of mine inspect the block and crank. When it is returned to the dealership the tech will finish the final assembly. I have sent Carron a pm, but she has yet to answer me. Also at this point GMPP warranty has somewhat stepped away from the issue stating that it is no longer a "warranty issue" but should be covered under the dealerships insurance if they need to get involved in the future, its left to be seen.

@MTRocket & 1BADXLR......I have the pictures that you requested and I will pm them to you shortly.

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Sounds like theirs a little progress good. What exactly did they decide replacing? I think what busa is talking about is the burn marks on the paths of where the cams ride the valves. The journals should have a polished look like some of the others. Means your getting to much friction ,heat buildup,loss of lubrication?
 

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