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Quick Fix for Intermittent and Dead Door Switch Pads

ccclarke

Seasoned Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
1,034
Location
Uncanny Valley, New England
My XLR/V(s)
2013 Graphite Metallic XTS Platinum
Nothing in life is guaranteed, but this simple fix may make someone's life a little easier, which allows me to pay it forward for all the tricks many of you have taught me over the years we've enjoyed all things XLR together on this forum.

Too many XLR repairs cost an arm and a leg; I think we can all agree on that.

Door pad switches tend to become intermittent over time, --especially the driver's side switch which receives the majority of use. In time, the switch can fail completely. They are exposed to not only wear and tear, but the weather, since they are not water-proof, -just water-resistant. Luckily, they're cheap and plentiful if you need a new one.

But what if you could fix your own door pads in less than thirty minutes with nothing more than 2 beers, two Phillip screwdrivers, and a 1 inch square of 600 grit sandpaper? Intrigued? I thought you might be. If so, here's how to do it:

1) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two fasteners that hold the pad in place. Slowly pull it out of the door until you reach the connector. Unclip it and place the door pad next to the firt beer you're about to crack open. Hell, take a few chugs, here's where it gets fun. Feel free to continue draining that first beer as you perform the following steps. I've even included pics if you're drinking shots. -- Or whatever else takes you to your happy place. If you're a clutz or just plain spastic, tie a length of string around the connector in the door so it doesn't fall inside and ruin your experience with a fishing expedition. This is supposed to be fun!

2) Using a tiny Phillips screwdriver, remove the five fasteners that hold the thing together.

3) Gently open the housing and you'll see a rubber membrane that positions the switch contacts and a plate that has a bunch of copper traces that the contacts press against when the membrane is squeezed. They will probably look discolored and the traces oxidized.

4) Remove the switch contact plate from the membrane (it's got holes that align with tiny posts so the only way you can screw this up during reassembly is to force it onto the posts backwards and upside down. Don't do that or you aren't allowed to slam the celebratory beer afterwards, okay?

5) Using the sandpaper, lightly buff the switch contacts from where they join to the plate where they bend out. Not back and forth, but in one direction. Continue until they're nice and shiny. If they look like little snubs, you've burnished too much and you still don't get the celebratory beer. Or shot. Or whatever.

6) Attack the copper traces with the sandpaper until they're nice and shiny too. It doesn't have to be perfect, but pay attention to the (four) areas where the switch contacts will touch when it's put back together. To clean the copper even better after using the sandpaper, use a pencil eraser.

7) When you're done, reverse the disassembly process.


8) Test the switch to ensure it's operating before the next all-important step.

9) Finish that celebratory beer you've just earned.

10) Stare into one the side mirrors and marvel at your ingenuity and dealer independence. Yeah, you!

I hope this helps you at least enjoy a buzz while you test your newly-cleaned switch!

CC :wave:
 

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    Switch Guts.JPG
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  • Switch Contacts Before and After.jpg
    Switch Contacts Before and After.jpg
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  • Traces Before and After.jpg
    Traces Before and After.jpg
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Last edited:

David_B

Seasoned Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2014
Messages
446
Location
SE Michigan
My XLR/V(s)
N/Z
Did this a couple months ago.

It makes a HUUUGE difference.

Even if you don't think you need to do this, you probably do.

I went from needing to pull the door two or three times to get them open to opening first time 99% of the time.
 
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
1,094
Location
Mountsberg, Ontario, Ca., winters: Port Charlotte
My XLR/V(s)
2009 XLR Crystal Red Metalic
Nothing in life is guaranteed, but this simple fix may make someone's life a little easier, which allows me to pay it forward for all the tricks many of you have taught me over the years we've enjoyed all things XLR together on this forum.

Too many XLR repairs cost an arm and a leg; I think we can all agree on that.

Door pad switches tend to become intermittent over time, --especially the driver's side switch which receives the majority of use. In time, the switch can fail completely. They are exposed to not only wear and tear, but the weather, since they are not water-proof, -just water-resistant. Luckily, they're cheap and plentiful if you need a new one.

But what if you could fix your own door pads in less than thirty minutes with nothing more than 2 beers, two Phillip screwdrivers, and a 1 inch square of 600 grit sandpaper? Intrigued? I thought you might be. If so, here's how to do it:

1) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two fasteners that hold the pad in place. Slowly pull it out of the door until you reach the connector. Unclip it and place the door pad next to the firt beer you're about to crack open. Hell, take a few chugs, here's where it gets fun. Feel free to continue draining that first beer as you perform the following steps. I've even included pics if you're drinking shots. -- Or whatever else takes you to your happy place. If you're a clutz or just plain spastic, tie a length of string around the connector in the door so it doesn't fall inside and ruin your experience with a fishing expedition. This is supposed to be fun!

2) Using a tiny Phillips screwdriver, remove the five fasteners that hold the thing together.

3) Gently open the housing and you'll see a rubber membrane that positions the switch contacts and a plate that has a bunch of copper traces that the contacts press against when the membrane is squeezed. They will probably look discolored and the traces oxidized.

4) Remove the switch contact plate from the membrane (it's got holes that align with tiny posts so the only way you can screw this up during reassembly is to force it onto the posts backwards and upside down. Don't do that or you aren't allowed to slam the celebratory beer afterwards, okay?

5) Using the sandpaper, lightly buff the switch contacts from where they join to the plate where they bend out. Not back and forth, but in one direction. Continue until they're nice and shiny. If they look like little snubs, you've burnished too much and you still don't get the celebratory beer. Or shot. Or whatever.

6) Attack the copper traces with the sandpaper until they're nice and shiny too. It doesn't have to be perfect, but pay attention to the (four) areas where the switch contacts will touch when it's put back together. To clean the copper even better after using the sandpaper, use a pencil eraser.

7) When you're done, reverse the disassembly process.


8) Test the switch to ensure it's operating before the next all-important step.

9) Finish that celebratory beer you've just earned.

10) Stare into one the side mirrors and marvel at your ingenuity and dealer independence. Yeah, you!

I hope this helps you at least enjoy a buzz while you test your newly-cleaned switch!

CC :wave:


Stupid thing. I DID NOT mean to dislike your post but after I clicked thanks the page shifted and instead of LIKE the dislike button was under my finger. Apparently once you dislike: that's it!
 

ccclarke

Seasoned Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
1,034
Location
Uncanny Valley, New England
My XLR/V(s)
2013 Graphite Metallic XTS Platinum
Well . . .


Since you gave me a Thanks, a Dislike, and a Like, --all things being equal, the sum of your comments were positive! I'm glad you liked it, and hope it helps if you ever need to clean the door pad contacts --or just need an innovative excuse to enjoy a beer or two.

CC :wave:
 
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
1,094
Location
Mountsberg, Ontario, Ca., winters: Port Charlotte
My XLR/V(s)
2009 XLR Crystal Red Metalic
Well . . .


Since you gave me a Thanks, a Dislike, and a Like, --all things being equal, the sum of your comments were positive! I'm glad you liked it, and hope it helps if you ever need to clean the door pad contacts --or just need an innovative excuse to enjoy a beer or two.

CC :wave:

We had to replace the trunk lid switch when I first got my car but it was 'damaged' - the silicone bubble top was gone. If I remember correctly, they are fairly cheap but why replace if they just need cleaning up!
Thanks for the info: they will get the Two Beer treatment at the first sign of non-compliance! :beerchug:
 

ccclarke

Seasoned Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
1,034
Location
Uncanny Valley, New England
My XLR/V(s)
2013 Graphite Metallic XTS Platinum
If your switch is damaged beyond repair, you can obtain them from any of the usual online vendors cheaply. They're plentiful since the corvette used them too. The part number for left or right doors is: 22751230. Both gmpartsdirect.com and gmpartsgiant.com had them in stock for $10.02.

The quantity in stock and part number for your beer will most likely vary.

CC :wave:
 

rexster314

Seasoned Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2015
Messages
1,451
Location
West Columbia, Texas
My XLR/V(s)
2006 Base Infrared
If your switch is damaged beyond repair, you can obtain them from any of the usual online vendors cheaply. They're plentiful since the corvette used them too. The part number for left or right doors is: 22751230. Both gmpartsdirect.com and gmpartsgiant.com had them in stock for $10.02.

The quantity in stock and part number for your beer will most likely vary.

CC :wave:

When I bought a spare one several months ago those vendors had them but the shipping cost as much if not more than the original cost. I got mine off eBay for 13.95$ w/free shipping. GMPARTSDIRECT sells it for 10.02 but the cheapest shipping charge is 16.70$
 

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