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ride hight adjustment

monepit

Seasoned Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2008
Messages
318
Location
Evansville Indiana
My XLR/V(s)
2004 black raven
I'm finding when I travel and load the trunk at times the tire rubs on the outside. I see this as not acceptable. I was looking at the spring and saw it had adjusters on it. I'm thinking I can raise it just a little to correct the problem. My question is, if I raise it 1/2 inch will that hurt anything. Also I tried to adjust the ride height screws and they wouldn't budge. I even soaked them for 3 days with penetrating oil. still no luck. In fact I've broken 3 sockets. I plan on just replacing the spring if I have to but If anybody Has any suggestions on how to brake them loose it would be appreciated. I would try heating the screws but They are mounted in a carbon fiber spring and I am afraid that would not be good.I measured the body height on the left rear where it is rubbing and it is 1/4 inch lower than the other side. Is it possible the spring is weak on the left side. I don't mind replacing it if it would help but I don't want to spend $500 and it make no difference. Any thoughts?
 
First, I'm surprised you can put enough of anything to affect ride height, that trunk is small. Are you running stock wheels also? I actually lowered my car more than 1/2 inch via the adjusters and have no rubbing issues. Anyhow, the springs can and do wear out, I've seen them crack on Corvettes so replacement may help. It could also be your shocks are leaking and letting it ride too low. Hope this helps.
Bruce
 
You would be surprised what you can get in the trunk if you drop the divider. I probably had a couple hundred pounds back there. It was packed to the gills. I do have aftermarket wheels witch is the problem, They have a 35 mm offset. The wheel place told me the stock wheels have a 46 but the guy at LA Wheels said it is 61 and I believe him. They are fine unless I load it, but I like to travel with it so I want to get this worked out. Another thing you mention is the shocks. They are both wet so I would say they are going, but I have never got a code on the dash and I believe if one of them is bad it would show in the dic. I would like to confirm that though. The spring has about 5 slight hairline cracks in it that I can see but I don't know if that means anything or not. I really don't want to change the wheels because they look great so I will play with a few things first.
 
I probably had a couple hundred pounds back there. It was packed to the gills.

:chuckle :laugh: The load level on the door "sticker" says limit of 300LBS (we had a thread on this before) Hope you don't weight more than a hundred Lbs. :lol:
 
Sounds like you need springs & shocks. Not sure about the DIC, but wet shocks is not right, nor are hairline cracks in the springs.
Hope this fixes it so you can keep your wheels.
Bruce
 
I would suggest that you take your vehicle to a qualified front end alignment store and have them do it. I had mine lowered and didn't like the ride, so had them put it back to the original settings.
Put over sized tired on for a long trip and hitting bumps and bad concrete tore the inner liners. Not a big job to replace, about $250 for a set of two. Tire store stood behind putting the wrong tire size on and fixed the problem for Zero.:pat:
 
A shock or shocks that are leaking oil would not set a code or give you a DIC message. The cracks could just be in the plastic coating on the spring. I would like to see them in person.
 
Bruce and Monepit, I think you're both right. A bad shock can be detected by the Electronic Susupension Control module and will display one or more messages on the DIC.

Specifically, the ESC module periodically sends a diagnostic signal to each shock absorber and will set a DTC if one of the shocks fails. The pass/fail criteria isn't listed in the shop manual, but I would think that if enough oil leaked out from a shock it would be detected. A light film on the top of the shock reservoir is considered normal.

If the ESC outputs a DTC, two messages can appear on the DIC:
"SERVICE RIDE CONTROL" & "SHOCKS INOPERATIVE."

Depending on the failure, the ESC can disable all four shocks and limit the vehicle speed. If that happens, "MAXIMUM SPEED 129km/h (80mph)" will be displayed on the DIC.

Here's a list of all the DIC messages that can appear (on an '04.) Other models may have additional messages, so feel free to chime in and add to this list:

ABS ACTIVE<O:p</O:p
BATTERY SAVER ACTIVE . . . . Uh huh. . . <O:p</O:p
CHANGE OIL NOW<O:p</O:p
CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT<O:p</O:p
CHECK GAS CAP<O:p</O:p
CLEAN RADAR CRUISE<O:p</O:p
CLOSE CARGO COVER<O:p</O:p
COOLANT OVER TEMP<O:p</O:p
CRUISE NOT READY<O:p</O:p
DRIVER NO. X (1 OR 2<O:p</O:p
ENGINE HOT, STOP ENGINE<O:p</O:p
ENGINE PROTECTION REDUCE ENGINE RPM<O:p</O:p
HEADLAMPS SUGGESTED<O:p</O:p
HIGH TRANS TEMP<O:p</O:p
HIGH VOLTAGE<O:p</O:p
HOT ENGINE–A/C OFF<O:p</O:p
ICE POSSIBLE<O:p</O:p
LEFT DOOR AJAR<O:p</O:p
LOW BRAKE FLUID<O:p</O:p
LOW COOLANT<O:p</O:p
LOW FUEL<O:p</O:p
LOW OIL LEVEL<O:p</O:p
LOW OIL PRESSURE
LOW VOLTAGE<O:p</O:p
LOW WASHER FLUID<O:p</O:p
MAX SPEED XX MPH (XX KM/H)<O:p</O:p
NO FOB DETECTED<O:p</O:p
NO FOB, OFF OR RUN?<O:p</O:p
PRESS BRAKE TO START
REDUCED ENGINE POWER
RIGHT DOOR AJAR<O:p</O:p
SERVICE A/C<O:p</O:p
SERVICE ABS
SERVICE ELECT SYSTEM<O:p</O:p
SERVICE FUEL SYSTEM<O:p</O:p
SERVICE RADAR CRUISE
SERVICE RIDE CONTROL
SERVICE TRACTION SYS
SERVICE STABILITRAK<O:p</O:p
SERVICE TRANSMISSION<O:p</O:p
SERVICE VEHICLE SOON<O:p</O:p
SHIFT TO PARK<O:p</O:p
STABILITRAK ACTIVE<O:p</O:p
STABILITRAK READY<O:p</O:p
STABILITRAK WARMING<O:p</O:p
SVC TIRE MONITOR<O:p</O:p
TOO COLD TO MOVE TOP<O:p</O:p
TOP INOP – VALET ON<O:p</O:p
TOP INOP OUT OF PARK<O:p</O:p
TOP MOTOR OVER TEMP
TOP NOT SECURE --My personal favorite!
TRAC SYSTEM ACTIVE<O:p</O:p
TRAC/STABILITRAK OFF<O:p</O:p
TRAC/STABILITRAK ON<O:p</O:p
TRACTION SYSTEM OFF<O:p</O:p
TRACTION SYSTEM ON<O:p</O:p
TRUNK AJAR<O:p</O:p
WAIT FOR STABILITRAK<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

Other DIC Messages: <O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

1st GEAR
2nd GEAR
3rd GEAR
4th GEAR
5th GEAR
ACCESSORY MODE ACTIVE<O:p</O:p
CHANGE OIL SOON<O:p</O:p
FOB BATTERY LOW<O:p</O:p
HIGH TIRE PRESS LF<O:p</O:p
HIGH TIRE PRESS RF
HIGH TIRE PRESS LR
HIGH TIRE PRESS RR
INTRUSION SENSOR OFF<O:p</O:p
INTRUSION SENSOR ON<O:p</O:p
KNOWN FOB<O:p</O:p
LEFT FRONT TIRE FLAT MAX SPD 55, REDUCED HNDLG<O:p</O:p
LEFT REAR TIRE FLAT MAX SPD 55, REDUCED HNDLG<O:p</O:p
LOW TIRE PRESS LF<O:p</O:p
LOW TIRE PRESS RF
LOW TIRE PRESS LR
LOW TIRE PRESS RR
MAX # FOBS LEARNED
NO FOB, OFF OR RUN?
NO FOBS DETECTED<O:p</O:p
OFF-ACC TO LEARN<O:p</O:p
READY FOR FOB #X
RIGHT FRT TIRE FLAT MAX SPD 55, REDUCED HNDLG<O:p</O:p
RIGHT REAR TIRE FLAT MAX SPD 55, REDUCED HNDLG<O:p</O:p
WAIT XX MINUTESILITRAK READY message is displayed in the DIC


DIC Messages I'd like to see:

SERVICE REQUIRED - POVERTY IMMINENT
WARRANTY EXPIRED - STAND BY
TOP FLOPPED - BOHICA

Monepit: For you, the easiest answer is almost always to replace the assembly. If it can break on your car, it will. That being said, you aren't cursed, but your car most certainly is. The good news is, while the rest of us have cars that are aging and will most certainly fail for good at some point, yours is getting younger due to the installation of newer, sometimes upgraded parts. Eventually, you might go into your garage one morning and find your car completely disassembled, all assemblies stored in boxes on shelves -with a VIN that ends in 001! (Kind of a cross between 2001 and Highlander.) And like the Highlander, at some point, there can be only ONE. I think it will be yours! You might want to consider changing your plates to: THE ONE


CC :wave:
 
Bruce and Monepit, I think you're both right. A bad shock can be detected by the Electronic Suspension Control module and will display one or more messages on the DIC.

Specifically, the ESC module periodically sends a diagnostic signal to each shock absorber and will set a DTC if one of the shocks fails. The pass/fail criteria isn't listed in the shop manual, but I would think that if enough oil leaked out from a shock it would be detected. A light film on the top of the shock reservoir is considered normal.

If the ESC outputs a DTC, two messages can appear on the DIC:
"SERVICE RIDE CONTROL" & "SHOCKS INOPERATIVE."

Depending on the failure, the ESC can disable all four shocks and limit the vehicle speed. If that happens, "MAXIMUM SPEED 129km/h (80mph)" will be displayed on the DIC.

Here's a list of all the DIC messages that can appear (on an '04.) Other models may have additional messages, so feel free to chime in and add to this list:

ABS ACTIVE<O:p</O:p
BATTERY SAVER ACTIVE . . . . Uh huh. . . <O:p</O:p
CHANGE OIL NOW<O:p</O:p
CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT<O:p</O:p
CHECK GAS CAP<O:p</O:p
CLEAN RADAR CRUISE<O:p</O:p
CLOSE CARGO COVER<O:p</O:p
COOLANT OVER TEMP<O:p</O:p
CRUISE NOT READY<O:p</O:p
DRIVER NO. X (1 OR 2<O:p</O:p
ENGINE HOT, STOP ENGINE<O:p</O:p
ENGINE PROTECTION REDUCE ENGINE RPM<O:p</O:p
HEADLAMPS SUGGESTED<O:p</O:p
HIGH TRANS TEMP<O:p</O:p
HIGH VOLTAGE<O:p</O:p
HOT ENGINE–A/C OFF<O:p</O:p
ICE POSSIBLE<O:p</O:p
LEFT DOOR AJAR<O:p</O:p
LOW BRAKE FLUID<O:p</O:p
LOW COOLANT<O:p</O:p
LOW FUEL<O:p</O:p
LOW OIL LEVEL<O:p</O:p
LOW OIL PRESSURE
LOW VOLTAGE<O:p</O:p
LOW WASHER FLUID<O:p</O:p
MAX SPEED XX MPH (XX KM/H)<O:p</O:p
NO FOB DETECTED<O:p</O:p
NO FOB, OFF OR RUN?<O:p</O:p
PRESS BRAKE TO START
REDUCED ENGINE POWER
RIGHT DOOR AJAR<O:p</O:p
SERVICE A/C<O:p</O:p
SERVICE ABS
SERVICE ELECT SYSTEM<O:p</O:p
SERVICE FUEL SYSTEM<O:p</O:p
SERVICE RADAR CRUISE
SERVICE RIDE CONTROL
SERVICE TRACTION SYS
SERVICE STABILITRAK<O:p</O:p
SERVICE TRANSMISSION<O:p</O:p
SERVICE VEHICLE SOON<O:p</O:p
SHIFT TO PARK<O:p</O:p
STABILITRAK ACTIVE<O:p</O:p
STABILITRAK READY<O:p</O:p
STABILITRAK WARMING<O:p</O:p
SVC TIRE MONITOR<O:p</O:p
TOO COLD TO MOVE TOP<O:p</O:p
TOP INOP – VALET ON<O:p</O:p
TOP INOP OUT OF PARK<O:p</O:p
TOP MOTOR OVER TEMP
TOP NOT SECURE --My personal favorite!
TRAC SYSTEM ACTIVE<O:p</O:p
TRAC/STABILITRAK OFF<O:p</O:p
TRAC/STABILITRAK ON<O:p</O:p
TRACTION SYSTEM OFF<O:p</O:p
TRACTION SYSTEM ON<O:p</O:p
TRUNK AJAR<O:p</O:p
WAIT FOR STABILITRAK<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

Other DIC Messages: <O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

1st GEAR
2nd GEAR
3rd GEAR
4th GEAR
5th GEAR
ACCESSORY MODE ACTIVE<O:p</O:p
CHANGE OIL SOON<O:p</O:p
FOB BATTERY LOW<O:p</O:p
HIGH TIRE PRESS LF<O:p</O:p
HIGH TIRE PRESS RF
HIGH TIRE PRESS LR
HIGH TIRE PRESS RR
INTRUSION SENSOR OFF<O:p</O:p
INTRUSION SENSOR ON<O:p</O:p
KNOWN FOB<O:p</O:p
LEFT FRONT TIRE FLAT MAX SPD 55, REDUCED HNDLG<O:p</O:p
LEFT REAR TIRE FLAT MAX SPD 55, REDUCED HNDLG<O:p</O:p
LOW TIRE PRESS LF<O:p</O:p
LOW TIRE PRESS RF
LOW TIRE PRESS LR
LOW TIRE PRESS RR
MAX # FOBS LEARNED
NO FOB, OFF OR RUN?
NO FOBS DETECTED<O:p</O:p
OFF-ACC TO LEARN<O:p</O:p
READY FOR FOB #X
RIGHT FRT TIRE FLAT MAX SPD 55, REDUCED HNDLG<O:p</O:p
RIGHT REAR TIRE FLAT MAX SPD 55, REDUCED HNDLG<O:p</O:p
WAIT XX MINUTESILITRAK READY message is displayed in the DIC


DIC Messages I'd like to see:

SERVICE REQUIRED - POVERTY IMMINENT
WARRANTY EXPIRED - STAND BY
TOP FLOPPED - BOHICA

Monepit: For you, the easiest answer is almost always to replace the assembly. If it can break on your car, it will. That being said, you aren't cursed, but your car most certainly is. The good news is, while the rest of us have cars that are aging and will most certainly fail for good at some point, yours is getting younger due to the installation of newer, sometimes upgraded parts. Eventually, you might go into your garage one morning and find your car completely disassembled, all assemblies stored in boxes on shelves -with a VIN that ends in 001! (Kind of a cross between 2001 and Highlander.) And like the Highlander, at some point, there can be only ONE. I think it will be yours! You might want to consider changing your plates to: THE ONE


CC :wave:
CC, do you know how much I appreciate you and Bruce. You sure are a lot of help. Believe it or not, I don't regret my purchase at all. I figure in 1 year I have spent about $3200 in repairs. Another $4000 in upgrades but that was my choice. They wanted $3800 for a 1 year 12000 mile warranty. I have put 21000 miles on it in the year so I would have ran out about August. So I am ahead compared to the warranty. I have a lot of new parts that do go out on these cars so I am ahead there too. I bought the car below wholesale so I am way ahead there, and I drive the coolest car I could possibly imagine. Hard to believe with the problems I've had I still think I win. As for the ride height, nothing is wrong with the car I just want to raise it 1/2 inch because of the tire clearance. I don't have any problem unless I load the trunk down for a trip. That is my choice. I might just buy new tires. I figure if I get 245's instead of 255's I will get the 1/2 inch i need but I hate to replace 4 month old tires.
 
Monepit,

I'm in the same boat with you. Despite a few (painfully expensive) issues when I first bought my car, I still came out way ahead due to the very low price I paid, (still a good price two years later now!) and the fact that the extended warranty was a $4000 gamble. I waited four years to get an XLR and it was worth it. What amazed me the most was how nice it was to drive the vehicle long distances. I imagine others who have made road trips would agree.

These forums are great. As our cars age, and all kinds of weird little problems start showing up, forums like this become an even richer resource for all of us. Like most everything else, it's the people who make or break a group, a place or an organization. So far, all the XLR owners I've met in person have been pretty darned cool.

CC :)
 
I agree. I had an Allante I loved for 320000 miles and over 10 years and I couldn't have done it without the Allante.net and Dick Hussey.
 

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